Myriam*** V+
[Via Myriam at Cinque Torri , 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The classic itinerary of Torre Grande. A justifiably popular route with an outstanding traverse on the 3rd pitch. The 1st pitch is very polished which can make it feel difficult for the grade.
Start at a pronounced corner 5m left of the tower's arete.

1) V+, 40m. Climb the polished wall direct taking a slight deviation at 10m round a bulge. Follow the wall direct for another 15m until you reach an equipped belay on a large ledge.
2) IV+, 35m. Step right heading for a corner. Climb the short corner with interest, exiting left at the top. Follow shattered rock traversing left underneath a series of overhangs on easy ground for 20m (peg up high to protect second) until a bolted stance is reached.
3) IV+, 35m. Climb the rising flake diagonally leftwards for 5m. Traverse left for another 5m directly under the large roof, exposed but on good holds, until a short chimney is reached. Climb the chimney exiting to the left onto a large ledge.
4) V, 45m. Leave the ledge on the left-hand side (the line of pegs leaving the right side is Direttissima Scoiattoli). Climb towards the bottom of the large corner on easy ground. Follow the corner feature for 40m before exiting on the left to a bolt belay. There is an intermediate belay halfway up the corner if you wish to split this section into two pitches.
5) IV+, 20m. The original finish follows the chimney just right of the belay, but this is loose. It is now common to climb leftwards before descending between the towers. For those who don't want to miss the summit experience, a better alternative is to follow the ledge left for 5m before climbing the wall direct. The way is marked by three bolts. Continue past these to reach easy ground and the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
6 Pitch trad route - 5,4,2,4+,5,4
Leads to the south summit of Torre Grande
Classic trad route of the towers, with the polish to prove it. Only bolt is found on the very last pitch, so more like VS 5a than F5.


Angelo and Guiseppe Dimai 29/Jun/1927

Photo: Via Myriam at Cinque Torri © James Rushforth
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 91 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

p1 M, p2 R, p3 F, p4 M, p5 F
FlavioL1989 - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Mike Gallimore, Rob Edwards

Led pitch 1 and the big groove pitch (amazing!) Flavio led the traverse, rob led the sketchy loose bit. Topped out in hail to a frozen flavio. Best abseil descent I've ever done. Through the middle of the towers.
MichaelGallimore - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/14

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Debbie

james1978 - AltLd - Sep/14 with pam

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Alex

Led pitches 1, 3, 5. Steep and tricky on P1 - definitely woke me up!
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Chris Allan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/14

daveclarke5 - AltLd - Aug/14 with Stephen

ElStevo13 - Lead O/S - Aug/14 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14

Led all pitches, tempted to return for variation Diretti Dimai
Robin Brooke - Lead - Jul/14 with Paula Ryan

Pryan - AltLd - Jul/14 with Robin Brooke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/13

Great mountain day, first pitch is super polished, but the other pitches are fine. Awesome abseil between the towers on the way down.
p.j.deacon - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13 with James Rushford

Fran Sgr - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Jay C

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Fran S

Lead it all. P1 is the hard bit. P3 up the flake and the traverse is awesome. One hard move on P4. Didn't place a single nut and only used 2 cams. Felt like VS.
BigTone - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/13

Led last Pitch
Gramps24 - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/13 with BigTone

Loved this, great fun P1, although polished there are other foot placement options, enjoyed the traverse under the roof. Dropped one shoe at belay under P4 waving away what i thought was a large bee but was actually a butterfly �� borrowed partners shoe to finish. Couple with unusual descent through tunnel. Led 1,3,4,5,6
Robin Brooke - Lead - Aug/13 with Paula Ryan

Led even pitches as per Kohler guide (V,IV,V,V,III). Good route that puts you in some interesting positions, felt about vs5a. Only P1 has any significant polish. Made up our own abseil descent which was somewhat exciting.
prog99 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Fiona

Done in 6 pitches, led 1, 3 and 5. Pitch 1 is nowhere near as polished as I'd expected. Pitch 3 is simply stunning (so so glad I'd taken cams!!), with a totally out there traverse along the flake crack. Pitch 4 is pretty damn good too. A really nice climb.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Mike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

ClimberJimmyB - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13

Pryan - 2nd - Jul/13 with Robin Brooke

Zoe Cockburn - AltLd - Jul/13

kingjam - Lead - Jun/13 with Matt Naylor

Hidden - 05/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/12

centurion05 - AltLd O/S - Aug/12 with dyl

williamsd79 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Andy Woolston

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12

jshields - AltLd - 09/Jul/12 with Steve Ebbens

Sankey - AltLd - 09/Jul/12 with Jon

tried this the day before but retreated before the weather hit so determined this time. got soaked to the skin and the abbed the line from the top.
tomhull - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/12 with matt harris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/12

guy757 - Lead - 20/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/12

Suzana - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/12 with Lucy Greenhill

difficult to work out the decent in the dark! look for a tunnel on the west face to enter the west side of the gully between the west and north towers.
stevorobs3 - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/11 with Giovanni Milandri

Jamie Degel - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Norbert Ramm (DAV Hamburg)

Little AndyH - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Camilla West

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/11

roberts1234567890 - AltLd O/S - 11/May/11 with Rebecca Murray

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd β - 15/Sep/10

David Smith - AltLd - Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10

selbs83 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10

Descent not as nice as the guidebook makes out
seeroo - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Scone

Second pitch only, was planning to lead the last, but thunderstorm was approaching so decided it would be quicker if Stuart lead. Very polished first pitch, was tricky.
Elsier - AltLd - 21/Jul/10 with Stuart

TonyB - AltLd - 17/Jul/10 with Gwilym

jimmyrua - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Tom J, Emily Ward

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/10

mick grim - Lead O/S - Jul/10

VS 5a more appropriate? Certainly not a fully bolted trad route. Decent warm-up for us, not too polished.
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/10 with SteveyM

SteveMyatt - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Mark Fairbank

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Graham, Hannah

Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with hannah gibbs, jonnie williams

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

polish-tastic
nathanlee - 2nd β - Sep/09

7 pitches
rdi1v07 - Lead - 28/Aug/09

Luis SD - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/09

Trad route, UIAA 5+
danm - AltLd - 30/Jul/09 with Jim Danson, Bob

Barry D - AltLd - 22/Jul/09 with Derek

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/09

P1 only, polished - VS-HVS
Sankey - Lead - 02/Jul/09 with Andy E

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/09

Returned for another go, AMAMM raind from 2nd pitch on!
Marq - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Andrew Funnell

Backed off after first pitch due to rain
Marq - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Andrew Funnell

brassic, snow flurries... protected under the overhang though!
French Erick - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/08 with Dave Kerr

decs - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/08 with Sam and Katie

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Trevor Box

A great climb - 1st pitch polished finshed route in a mixture of rain and hailstones which made the last pitch challenging
John HW - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/07 with Cath

donkster - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with mudders

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/06 with Andy Asaam

Led Ps 1,3,5.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/06 with James

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

andyinglis - AltLd - Jun/04 with Neil Adams

rlrs - AltLd - Jun/04

crossdressingrodney - AltLd - 19/Jul/02 with scouse pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/01

Lead pitches 1,3,4,6
adamwesthead - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/01 with Hoult

cem - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/00 with Ruth Shuter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/79

First Dolomite Climb, found rock loose and apparently slippy, was unhappy in PA's but could have led it, a good start
Peter Main - 2nd - 05/Aug/74 with Robin Andrews

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Voting
Total votes cast 34
hard VI-0 of 15
VI-0 of 15
easy VI-0 of 15
hard V+0 of 15
V+15 of 15
easy V+0 of 15
hard V0 of 15
V0 of 15
easy V0 of 15
3 Stars16 of 19
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