6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A harder alternative to the more popular Via Myriam, which shares the first two pitches before continuing direct up the face.
Start at the pronounced corner as for Via Myriam.
1) V+, 40m. Climb the polished wall direct taking a slight deviation at 10m round a bulge. Follow the wall direct for another 15m until you reach an equipped belay on a large ledge. Shared with Via Myriam.
2) IV+, 35m. Step right heading for the next corner. Climb the short corner with interest, exiting left at the top. Via Myriam branches left here. Instead, step right then follow the vague arete for a few metres to a good bolted stance.
3) VI+, 20m. Traverse left for 8m following a horizontal crack then climb direct just left of the arete.
4) V-, 20m. Move diagonally left to a good stance on a ledge.
5) VI-, 30m. Climb direct for 20m then move right to a possible belay. Follow two successive pale cracks leftwards to a stance on a ledge.
6) III, 30m. Move left from the belay, climb a short slab then cross over a gully. Continue left then back right in a second short gully to exit just below the summit. The original finish to Via Myriam joins here. Move up left to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A harder alternative to the more popular Via Myriam, which shares the first two pitches before continuing direct up the face.
Start at the pronounced corner as for Via Myriam.
1) V+, 40m. Climb the polished wall direct taking a slight deviation at 10m round a bulge. Follow the wall direct for another 15m until you reach an equipped belay on a large ledge. Shared with Via Myriam.
2) IV+, 35m. Step right heading for the next corner. Climb the short corner with interest, exiting left at the top. Via Myriam branches left here. Instead, step right then follow the vague arete for a few metres to a good bolted stance.
3) VI+, 20m. Traverse left for 8m following a horizontal crack then climb direct just left of the arete.
4) V-, 20m. Move diagonally left to a good stance on a ledge.
5) VI-, 30m. Climb direct for 20m then move right to a possible belay. Follow two successive pale cracks leftwards to a stance on a ledge.
6) III, 30m. Move left from the belay, climb a short slab then cross over a gully. Continue left then back right in a second short gully to exit just below the summit. The original finish to Via Myriam joins here. Move up left to the top.
FA. Dimai, Degasper, Gherdina, Verzi 1933


ClimberDateStyle
james1978 25/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with pam
Hidden 28/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
Maddie 28/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Did the first pitch which was a bit tricky in the overhang. I was too slow though and busy route with 3 of us so sacked it off. Then it rained

with aidan, remus
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/14 AltLd

Had abseil back to Myriam near the crux pitch

with Robin Brooke
rdi1v07 29/Aug/09 Lead

8 pitches

Mark Walter ?/Aug/08 AltLd

in the hail! started halfway up and was easier to climb than retreat the traverses

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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