Rockfax Description
A classic route, combining a strenuous corner with technical face climbing on small pockets and crimps.
Start at the base of a short wall below the corner, marked with red grafitti 'FIN' by the first bolt of Clarissa.
1) IV, 10m. Climb a short crack then move easily left to the base of the prominent corner.
2) VI, 35m. Climb the well-protected corner with steep three-dimensional climbing, moving onto the right wall for one awkward move, then exit left and make a short traverse to a belay.
3) VI+, 20m. Climb steeply for 5m then make a short rightwards traverse on pockets. Continue a few metres direct then move back diagonally left to an uncomfortable stance.
4) VI-, 30m. Climb a shattered crack then make an awkward diagonal traverse right. Climb another crack right then move back left following a black slab before climbing direct to reach a small ledge.
5) V+, 30m. Continue in the same line, following a black slab, then pull through a small roof to reach a scree ledge. Continue direct then step right to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch trad route - French grades: 2, 6a, 6b, 6b, 6a. Note, a lot of the pegs have been removed

W. Gstrein, M. Jokinen 27/Jul/1959

QuentinSu 16/Sep 2nd rpt
masa-alpin 30/Aug AltLd O/S

I lead P2-4, Simon lead P1, P5-6 (P5 split into 2). Such a shame the route is littered with so many bolts and pegs and so it was practically a clip-up. Without them, it would be the absolutely first-class E3/E4 for sure. The crux P3 involved a 6a move for (very) shorties like me. A massive flake in P4 was wobbling; be warned! The hardest move for me in the entire route was to take out a cam for the P6 belay, which Simon had placed just by stanging on the camping-pitch-size belaying ledge, but I couldn't possibly reach. The abseiling off from the top of the tower was a bit of experience in the middle of 4 towers!

with Simon P
Hidden 30/Aug AltLd
Rachel Slater 29/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead even pitches. Good route although totally unnecessary that pitch 2 has a few bolts.

tim newton 29/Aug AltLd O/S
dodfoster 26/Aug AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Aug AltLd O/S

Superb and memorable route. Solid climbing on all the pitches. Great exposure on pitch 3. I led 2,3 and top of 4. Guidebook description of the abseil is wrong. Fails to mention the initial 20 metre abseil.

with Jim Daly
Oli 10/Aug AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3 and 5. Cracking route, really good climbing on all pitches.

with Tats
tatz45 10/Aug AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4, incredible climbing, incredible position, incredible route!

Hidden 03/Aug AltLd O/S
mike mo ?/Aug AltLd O/S

lovely sustained and intimidating climb

with Pete, Simon Pape
Hidden 28/Jul AltLd
RonnydeWeerd 20/Jul AltLd O/S

Great route!!!

with Marin spoelder, Tom ten Voorde
Hidden 16/Jul AltLd O/S
Kevster 11/Jul AltLd O/S

In 2 minds about this, is it a sport route or a trad route? Would be better as a trad route I think, but it is not with all the metal work along the way.

with P Ecton
Matt77 28/May AltLd O/S

Great climbing but so many pitons and bolts that it is basically a sport route. I did pitches 2 and 4. I reckon pitch 2 would be around E1 5b without the bolts.

with Shane
islandlynx 27/May AltLd

Led p2 4. Very well protected with bolts and pitons when we did it. felt 6a+ to me.

tuukka 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Erik
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
james1978 ?/Sep/14 AltLd

Great climbing. No need for the bolts on the first pitch. worth the 3 stars.

with pam
Luis SD 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
bede.west ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S


Hidden 11/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
ian d f ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
stevorobs3 ?/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
professorcobra 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Decided to leave my two German friends (who I'd originally met in Yosemite) to lead this as they had just arrived and arranged to meet up with me at the end of my trip! Both were climbing on top form!

with Kathi Wagner, Vali Manhardt
Hidden 05/Aug/12 -
Hidden 05/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
williamsd79 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Really good route, you can do it without any gear, it is practically a sport route.

with dyl
stevorobs3 09/Sep/11 AltLd dnf

far more zig zagy than the classic dolomites climbs suggests! and far less protected also! had to ab off after pitch 3.

with Giovanni Milandri
dan gibson 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Hidden 22/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Josh Legg
josh william legg ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd
nathanlee 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Pegs and bolt belays. Top route!

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
michaelja 20/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

french 6b

Chad123 11/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Good first Dolomites route but exciting as we approached in a thunderstorm while everyone else was leaving! Easy for VII-, second proper pitch is the crux.

with Emily
Ed Babs 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Harry
Kopo ?/Aug/09 -
with Emmi
khawk 27/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with DT
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
WB ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 22/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/04 Lead O/S
simon kimber ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with Paul Burren
pezzerrr ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Dave Kerr 09/Sep/02 AltLd
with Steve Wells
adamwesthead 15/Jun/01 AltLd dog

Lead pitches 2 & 4

with Hoult
gergosantha ?/Jul/94 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
samrad, Hidden, Sankey
High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set