|100m, 4 pitches. |
A varied route that follows a series of cracks before a more difficult but well-protected slab.
Start at the base of the left of two shattered parallel cracks located on the left-hand side of the main black wall.
1) IV, 30m. Climb the left-hand of the parallel cracks on good holds then move left slightly and climb the continuation chimney crack. Trend back right to a stance by a red hole.
2) IV+, 20m. Climb the crack left of the belay then move right onto a vegetated ledge. Climb a short slab to a second ledge.
3) VI, 20m. Ignore a crack above the belay and climb the face on the left, past some difficult moves, before reaching an easier ramp. Follow this left then move back right to a stance by a small white niche.
4) IV, 25m. Climb left then follow the vague arete to reach a scree ledge.
5) IV, 15m. Climb the short, well-featured wall to the summit. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Starts just right of the NW ridge of Cima Ovest. Well equipped fixed belays.
1 - 30m (IV) Start on the left crack of the two broken cracks. The stance is below a steepening.
2 - 25m (IV+) Follow the crack upwards then go right to a good ledge.
3 - 15m (VI) Climb the steep wall, trending slightly left following the bolts.
4 - 30m (III) Follow the ridge to the summit
Descend off the summit to the left of the route finish. The descent is well equipped (there should be no need to use the questionable pitons)!