Via delle guide** IV+ 4b
[First pitch of Via delle guide on Torre Grande, 3 kb]An extremely popular route that is perfect for those beginning their Dolomite multi-pitch experience. Although perhaps undeserving of its classic status, it is nonetheless a good route, featuring one hard move on the second pitch.
Start at the highest point of the scree on the left side of the southwest face, under a prominent red niche.
1) IV-, 20m. Climb direct for a few metres into the niche, then move right before continuing direct to reach the line of horizontal roofs. Belay on the right.
2) IV+, 20m. Continue right under the roofs to a break, then climb direct, pulling through a bulge then climb the crack above to belay below an indistinct chimney.
3) III+, 40m. Climb the chimney then continue between two flakes. Where the rock becomes yellower, climb diagonally right below a roof.
4) IV, 30m. Move back left to pull through the bulge then climb direct to a ramp. Follow this left then climb a harder short crack.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb to the left of a loose chimney then follow a ledge right. Climb diagonally left then direct to the summit. © ROCKFAX
4 Pitch trad route - 4,3,4,3. Popular but disappointing

Photo: First pitch of Via delle guide on Torre Grande © gmatthew
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 95 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Alex

Stayed at Rifugio Scoiattoli. Fantastic food and good accommodation. Route was quite straightforward, but in a fantastic position.
m675bowsl - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Sian Davies

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/14

gmatthew - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14

tcn_2002 - Lead - 08/Jul/14

Led last pitch.
niallk - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/13 with Steven Harris, Pam

Fran Sgr - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Jay C

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Fran S

CathS - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Paul Lucas, Kev Bowser

bullybones - Lead - 01/Aug/13 with Linda F

First dolomite climb, led p1,3
Robin Brooke - Lead - Aug/13 with Paula Ryan

Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - Aug/13

my 1st multi-pitch climbing in Dolomiti. easiest choice to the peak.
moviti - Lead O/S - Aug/13 with Norico

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/13

Sam Hockley - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Helen Bailey, Brian Taylor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13

ClimberJimmyB - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jul/13

Pryan - AltLd - Jul/13 with Robin Brooke

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/13

tim exley - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with alice

victorhearnyeates - Lead - Jun/13

Fun introduction to Dolomite multipitch
MariaT - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Kelly Smith, Dan Piddock

dpiddock - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Kelly Smith, Maria Walker

Kelly Smith - 2nd - 06/Sep/12 with Dan Piddock, Maria Walker

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12

Pete Pozman - 2nd - 01/Aug/12

Led P1, P3. 1st route in Dolomites. Paled in comparison to what we did later!
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Huw Goodall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Elsier - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/12 with Koon

Koon - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/12 with Elsie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/12

Led odd pitches, 4b for pitch 1 only. Knees used to get over the crux!
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Mike

Easy after the 1st pitch. Worth it for the top out onto the pillar. Two 20m abs and then a short walk to the left for the last 20m ab.
prog99 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Fiona

MikeDowsett - AltLd - 09/Jul/12 with Ruth Gordon, John Harrison

John Nuttall - Lead - 06/Jul/12 with Sharon

RobbieT - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

RobbieT - AltLd β - May/12

line confusing, top out amazing
stevorobs3 - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/11 with Giovanni Milandri

LJC - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with ben.richards

ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Luca Celano

First climb of trip
ScottyD - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 05/Aug/11

Little AndyH - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Camilla West

roberts1234567890 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/11 with Martin Hill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10

akhutton88 - 2nd - 08/Aug/10

dickie01 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Julian King

JLS - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/10 with Jacqui

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/09

Led pitch 3.
kylieo - AltLd - 21/Aug/09 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/09

One hard move at beginning then pure pleasure.
the abmmc - AltLd - Jul/09 with Karl Rowe

andyebbens - AltLd - 28/Jun/09 with Steve E

Sankey - AltLd - 28/Jun/09 with Andy E

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/09

TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/09 with Tom

first route in the dolomites!
tbs105 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/09 with Tiff

PaulHermes - 2nd - 21/Sep/08 with Martin VCCC

PaulHermes - 2nd - 21/Sep/08

AMAM UIAA IV in guidebook
Marq - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Andrew Funnell

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/08 with Keeley Scholes

Led first and last pitches
adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Oliver Mentz and Ellen Taylor

31770 - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Ellen Taylor, adamscottthomas

first pitch steep led 2nd pitch - no gear, pretty crap
ellentaylor - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Ollie & Adam

con Marta e quelli di Camposampiero
paola - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/08

Protheroe - AltLd β - 09/Jul/08 with Kyle Mosley

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - Jul/08

Climbed whilst snowing, in june!
Em66 - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with Mat

Lead all pitches
jl - Lead O/S - 26/May/08 with Penny

pennyb - 2nd O/S - 26/May/08 with Jon

Instructing lead climbing - Kate and Russ on Vajolet Tiger
John HW - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/07 with Cath

edmund94 - Lead RP - 04/Jun/07

edmund94 - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/07

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/06 with Holly Adamthwaite

excellent route, couple of great moves, stunning views.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/06 with Tom Coulthard

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/06

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/06 with Joe

Hidden - Lead - Sep/04

rlrs - AltLd - Jun/04

clive-greenwood - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Steve Wright

tjekel - 2003

Had tried the previous year but too cold to even leave the ground!
Chris the Tall - AltLd - Sep/02 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/01

MontyH - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/01 with Andy Lawrance

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/00

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
zach.stone

Voting
Total votes cast 33
hard V-0 of 0
V-0 of 0
easy V-0 of 0
hard IV+0 of 0
IV+0 of 0
easy IV+0 of 0
hard IV0 of 0
IV0 of 0
easy IV0 of 0
3 Stars2 of 14
2 Stars9 of 14
1 Star3 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
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