Rockfax Description
An extremely popular route that is perfect for those beginning their Dolomite multi-pitch experience. Although perhaps undeserving of its classic status, it is nonetheless a good route, featuring one hard move on the second pitch.
Start at the highest point of the scree on the left side of the southwest face, under a prominent red niche.
1) IV-, 20m. Climb direct for a few metres into the niche, then move right before continuing direct to reach the line of horizontal roofs. Belay on the right.
2) IV+, 20m. Continue right under the roofs to a break, then climb direct, pulling through a bulge then climb the crack above to belay below an indistinct chimney.
3) III+, 40m. Climb the chimney then continue between two flakes. Where the rock becomes yellower, climb diagonally right below a roof.
4) IV, 30m. Move back left to pull through the bulge then climb direct to a ramp. Follow this left then climb a harder short crack.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb to the left of a loose chimney then follow a ledge right. Climb diagonally left then direct to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch trad route - 4,3,4,3. Popular but disappointing

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.


ClimberDateStyle
HP9 26/Sep AltLd

L 2 and 4. Pitch 2 very nice.. Worthwhile route.

with Mark Hayes
zeitoun 21/Sep 2nd

Superbe crag with beautiful historical routes. Slightly polished rock!

with Hubert N.
Dan0Me 10/Sep AltLd
Moritz L 10/Sep AltLd O/S
Alex Handley 04/Sep AltLd O/S

First route in the Dolomites, good fun but busy.

merlin138 04/Sep AltLd O/S

First climb in the Dolomites, super easy. The one hard move is true, but all relative, it's only a hard HS move! The rest of the route is simple and straight forward, we took gear, but tbh you don't need it if you're confident. Cemented rings all the way up, run out, but the block scrambling/jug pulling means you never worry. Super busy, at one point 3 teams were all topping out at the same time!

chrisfossa 24/Aug Lead
PalfreyN 22/Aug AltLd
gateaublaster 13/Aug -
Oo 22/Jul AltLd
with Tim_C7
Tim_C7 22/Jul AltLd O/S
with Toby D
PanzerHanzler 20/Jul AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 & 2

MoWalker3 18/Jul -
with Dan
Hidden 17/Jul AltLd
kingjam 04/Jul 2nd rpt
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 10/Dec/15 AltLd
wilf 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Andy 1st 2 pitches as 1. Me P2 (3) Tom went L at yellow patch (as according to our guide book) up chimney with block to easier ground. P4 (5) me. Mostly solid friendly rock, protection where you needed it.

with Tom, Andy
Hidden 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Tom F Harding ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Dave Spooner
Hidden 25/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
PPP 25/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Brian
Maarten2 07/Aug/15 Lead

Fun, a real mini Dolomite climb: not a sports route!

with Sander, Kitti
kingjam 25/Jul/15 AltLd
SeanSmith ?/Jul/15 AltLd
bobpilgrem 24/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Route busy on arrival, so did another warm up climb and then had this one to ourselves on the afternoon. Great intro to Dolomites multi pitch with a straightforward descent from tower.

Hidden 24/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
hazeysunshine 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Alex
m675bowsl 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Stayed at Rifugio Scoiattoli. Fantastic food and good accommodation. Route was quite straightforward, but in a fantastic position.

Hidden 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S
owen gibson 06/Aug/14 2nd
gmatthew 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 08/Jul/14 Lead
niallk 15/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led last pitch.

with Steven Harris, Pam
Hidden 15/Sep/13 AltLd
climberuk 15/Sep/13 AltLd
with Niall
Fran Sgr 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Jay C
Jay C 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Fran S
CathS 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd
Bullybones 01/Aug/13 Lead
with Linda F
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
Keendan ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
moviti ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

my 1st multi-pitch climbing in Dolomiti. easiest choice to the peak.

with Norico
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
ClimberJimmyB 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/13 AltLd
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/13 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 27/Jun/13 AltLd
tim exley 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with alice
alicethwaites 16/Jun/13 2nd
victorhearnyeates ?/Jun/13 Lead
MariaT 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Fun introduction to Dolomite multipitch

with Kelly Smith, Dan Piddock
dpiddock 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Kelly Smith 06/Sep/12 2nd
JoelO ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Pete Pozman 01/Aug/12 2nd
Will Hunt 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3. 1st route in Dolomites. Paled in comparison to what we did later!

Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Elsier 16/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Koon
Koon 16/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Elsie
Hidden 16/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Fiona Reid 11/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led odd pitches, 4b for pitch 1 only. Knees used to get over the crux!

with Mike
Mike-W-99 11/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Easy after the 1st pitch. Worth it for the top out onto the pillar. Two 20m abs and then a short walk to the left for the last 20m ab.

with Fiona
MikeDowsett 09/Jul/12 AltLd
with Ruth Gordon, John Harrison
John Nuttall 06/Jul/12 Lead
with Sharon
RobbieT ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
RobbieT ?/May/12 AltLd β
stevorobs3 09/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

line confusing, top out amazing

with Giovanni Milandri
LJC 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
ben.richards 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
ScottyD 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S

First climb of trip

Hidden 07/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
Little AndyH 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Camilla West
roberts1234567890 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Martin Hill
RM199 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
akhutton88 08/Aug/10 2nd
dickie01 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Julian King
JLS 20/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Jacqui
Tarquin 22/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd
kylieo 21/Aug/09 AltLd

Led pitch 3.

with Phil
Hidden 23/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
the abmmc ?/Jul/09 AltLd

One hard move at beginning then pure pleasure.

andyebbens 28/Jun/09 AltLd
with Steve E
Sankey 28/Jun/09 AltLd
with Andy E
Hidden 17/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
TiffTiff 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom
tbs105 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

first route in the dolomites!

with Tiff
PaulHermes 21/Sep/08 2nd
with Martin VCCC
PaulHermes 21/Sep/08 2nd
Marq 12/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

AMAM UIAA IV in guidebook

ChrisBrooke 06/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Keeley Scholes
Hidden 24/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
31770 24/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
ellentaylor ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

first pitch steep led 2nd pitch - no gear, pretty crap

with Ollie & Adam
paola 10/Jul/08 2nd O/S

con Marta e quelli di Camposampiero

Protheroe 09/Jul/08 AltLd β
with Kyle Mosley
Hidden 06/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
Em66 15/Jun/08 2nd

Climbed whilst snowing, in june!

with Mat
jl 26/May/08 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches

with Penny
pennyb 26/May/08 2nd O/S
with Jon
John HW 11/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Instructing lead climbing - Kate and Russ on Vajolet Tiger

with Cath
edmund94 04/Jun/07 Lead RP
edmund94 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
DavidR 18/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
KeithW 17/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

excellent route, couple of great moves, stunning views.

with Tom Coulthard
Hidden 17/Jul/06 AltLd
FrankW 14/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Joe
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead
IanMcC 28/Jul/04 AltLd
with Mhairi
rlrs ?/Jun/04 AltLd
Antony Mariani ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
clive-greenwood ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Steve Wright
tjekel ??/2003 -
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/02 AltLd

Had tried the previous year but too cold to even leave the ground!

with Paul
Hidden 03/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
MontyH 25/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
with Andy Lawrance
Hidden ?/Jun/00 2nd
jcw ?/Jul/99 -

In the clag and wet

with Francois Damilano
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set