Via Ignazio Dibona*** IV+
[Me and Karl on a great and terrible day in one., 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
An excellent route up the centre of Torre del Barancio's north face. The situations are surprisingly exposed for such a short route and the handholds on the first pitch can feel somewhat less than positive, but the rock is excellent and the climbing interesting throughout.
Start in the middle of the north face.
1) IV+, 25m. Climb to a niche 2m up on the right, then traverse left heading for a second niche. The first section feels quite exposed but is protected by a hidden ring 8m up.
Exit the niche on the right then make a rising traverse left then back right to a ledge and a cement ring belay.
2) IV+, 25m. Climb diagonally left from the belay with enjoyable climbing passing plenty of fixed gear to reach two cracks. Climb the right-hand of these, overcome a bulge at half-height then continue to another cement ring belay on the large ledge formed by the horizontal break in the face.
3) IV, 20m. Ascend rightwards then continue direct to reach a large ledge. Continue up a series of small ledges, moving slightly left.
4) IV, 25m. Climb direct up the centre of the tower with numerous possible lines to reach a flake at 20m. Continue on the left side of the tower to a series of ledges. Traverse the ledge rightwards then climb direct to a second ledge with a ring belay on the flat of the ledge on the arete itself.
5) IV+, 15m. Climb direct above the ring with steep climbing on the left side of the arete to the summit. Belay on a cement ring at the back right (SW) corner. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch trad route - 4, 4+, 3+,4,4

Photo: Me and Karl on a great and terrible day in one. © the abmmc
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This climb is in 54 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Barely polished at all... Ran p1 &2 together, 2nd p3, ran p4 &5 together. P1-3 great but 4,5 less so. Still great route
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/15 with Iain

tjekel - 16/Jul/15

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - Sep/14

efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Beth heatherington

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/14

tcn_2002 - Lead - 08/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14

Led all pitches
Robin Brooke - Lead - Jul/14 with Paula Ryan

kingjam - Lead - Jun/14 with Matt Naylor

Fran Sgr - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Jay C

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Fran S

Led P1, which felt a bit scary to me: little decent gear between fixed stuff and I'm too much of a wimp to just use those! Took ages so James led the rest...but took ages due to the alpine club's ambiguous guidebook description. Went off route for a pitch, I think. Some toys fell out of the pram and we couldn't find the abseil point at the back. Abbed instead down the route from a ledge on the right, below the summit, in two drops. 60s just reached the ground.
katherinesydney - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with leeds james

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/13 with Kris

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Aug/13

a really nice route. didn't find it polished. the first pitch is steep VS and the gear is not that obvious from the bottom but it does appear!
brianrunner - AltLd - 02/Aug/13 with martina

Done day after a storm, its north facing, and was pretty damn cold/fresh. Nice climbing, after working out where the first piton was on P1. Led p1,2,4,5
Robin Brooke - Lead - Aug/13 with Paula Ryan

Nice pleasant route
Mike-W-99 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Fiona

Led 1, 3 and 5. Very nice route.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Mike

Pryan - AltLd - Jul/13 with Robin Brooke

Daniel Heath - Solo rpt - 19/Aug/12

Multipitch instruction with Josh Elliot
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jun/12

Afternoon climb after NW corne
Suzana - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/12 with Lucy Greenhill

amazing climb all the way. also the top out is brilliant!
stevorobs3 - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/11 with Giovanni Milandri

Jamie Degel - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Norbert Ramm (DAV Hamburg)

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/11

LJC - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11 with ben.richards

ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11 with Luca Celano

Little AndyH - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Camilla West

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/10

Marq - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/09 with Andrew Funnell

timofy - Lead - 30/Aug/09

givemetea - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Gary Wong

garywong - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Roslyn McKendry

First pitch crux,easier after 2nd pitch.Belays and route line not always obvious...
Barry D - AltLd - 28/Jul/09 with Chris M & Derek

ratm - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/09 with Matt Forshaw

MartF - 2nd - 20/Jul/09 with Ben Crook, Matt

andyebbens - AltLd - 12/Jul/09 with Steve E

Very good quality climbing. First pitch is very spooky with the pegs invisible from below. Great 50 m free ab from the summit!
Sankey - AltLd - 12/Jul/09 with Andy E

pitches 1,2 and 4 petes prussik blocked whilst abseiling and the clouds raining
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Peter Drake

Great going up but tettible going down with horrendous mistake by me on abseiling. Shaky pint of beer in refuge afterwards.
the abmmc - 2nd O/S - Jul/09 with Karl Rowe

selbs83 - 2nd - 14/Aug/08

Protheroe - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Kyle Mosley

cat22 - 2nd O/S - Jul/08 with Mike

Em66 - 2nd - 22/Jun/08 with Mat

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/06 with Joe

The most polished route in existance? It is probably VS4c bumped up to HVS for the polish. Abbed down the route in a thunder and lightening rainstorm. Ropes jammed on the second Abseil and required a frantic pull to free them with thunder and lightening booming all around. Walked back to the car (at the refuge) in my rockboots. My old Sprayway waterproof is no longer waterproof.
AndyP - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/06 with Jamie

First pitch is polished with doubtful gear. Due to the polish quite hard. Hit by a thunderstorm and ha d an epic decent and run back to the car. Soaked to the skin in seconds.
Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/06 with Andy porter

John HW - 18/Jun/06 with Tarquin

Direct line on upper pitches - brilliant route
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Sep/02 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/01

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
zach.stone, monsteratt

Total votes cast 23
hard V-0 of 11
V-1 of 11
easy V-0 of 11
hard IV+1 of 11
IV+7 of 11
easy IV+1 of 11
hard IV1 of 11
IV0 of 11
easy IV0 of 11
3 Stars5 of 12
2 Stars6 of 12
1 Star1 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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