UKC

Start at Gars Bheinn and finish at Sgurr nan Gillean. Fantastic! The rock climbing is quite hard if wet.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Top ridge scrambles of Britain , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Scottish Classic Rock , Scotland's Mountain Ridges by Dan Bailey , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Sunny Side Up , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Winter Munroist's "Must Do" , Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray , MUMC Ticklist , North West Summer Road Trip , Skye Rock , The Big Easys , High Quality Adventure routes , Big Routes , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Funros , BoC Scottish Summer , STAUMC Ticklist , 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge , 33 By 33 , Summer 2021 , Rock Stars Trad Routes , 4 Star Scottish rock , Cuillin Ridge Traverse , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , A.P's summer , Consolidation Easy Long Routes , R&T , Dan’s Delights , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , Lairig hitlist , Dewimpification , British Rock Tour April '24 , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Will's Summer of Dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
DanH9883 24 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: parked in the free carpark up the road from the fairy pools carpark and spent a bit over 1hr walking down to Glen Brittle. Walked up to Gars Beinn and started the ridge a bit after 1400. Made our way through the TD gap and up Kings chimney with no other parties seeming to be on the ridge at all. Got to a bivi spot about 2130 and spent a while descending to find a small run off and water pool. Pot Noddle & super noddles for a late dinner, porridge with added Huel for breakfast Slightly damp bivi with sleeping bags and a tarp - it did rain a fair bit. Started out again about 730 well hydrated and carrying just 1L of water each, we did all the rest of the technical difficulties including Naismiths route climbing with out bags on and wearing rock shoes - some light showers during the day and again didn't see any other parties doing the route. Sumitted Gillean just after 1800 and walked of the SE ridge then, N (glad to get a drink by this point) and once low enough traversed off piste to get across to the path back into Glen Brittle getting back to out vehicle just as it got dark at 2230. We used the Tom Prentice topo guide and the 20 year old rockfax mini guidge but both were lkight on detail a lot of the time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: parked in the free carpark up the road from the fairy pools carpark and spent a bit over 1hr walking down to Glen Brittle. Walked up to Gars Beinn and started the ridge a bit after 1400. Made our way through the TD gap and up Kings chimney with no other parties seeming to be on the ridge at all. Got to a bivi spot about 2130 and spent a while descending to find a small run off and water pool. Pot Noddle & super noddles for a late dinner, porridge with added Huel for breakfast Slightly damp bivi with sleeping bags and a tarp - it did rain a fair bit. Started out again about 730 well hydrated and carrying just 1L of water each, we did all the rest of the technical difficulties including Naismiths route climbing with out bags on and wearing rock shoes - some light showers during the day and again didn't see any other parties doing the route. Sumitted Gillean just after 1800 and walked of the SE ridge then, N (glad to get a drink by this point) and once low enough traversed off piste to get across to the path back into Glen Brittle getting back to out vehicle just as it got dark at 2230. We used the Tom Prentice topo guide and the 20 year old rockfax mini guidge but both were lkight on detail a lot of the time.
Deema Mozayen 21 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Take the preparation seriously. You want to carry as little kit as you know you’ll need. Well worth stashing water and food at the inn pin in advance. With hindsight we would have also left a tent in Sligachan to cover the possibility of being stranded there in the middle of the night upon finishing. The Cicerone topo guide is essential if you don’t know the way! Rockshoes advised.
Show beta
βeta: Take the preparation seriously. You want to carry as little kit as you know you’ll need. Well worth stashing water and food at the inn pin in advance. With hindsight we would have also left a tent in Sligachan to cover the possibility of being stranded there in the middle of the night upon finishing. The Cicerone topo guide is essential if you don’t know the way! Rockshoes advised.
ChloeJ 16 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Word of advice if you arrive at Sligachan after 11pm it’s unlikely you’ll get a lift or taxi unless booked in advance. Hindsight would recommend pitching a tent or leaving bikes or bivvy stuff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Word of advice if you arrive at Sligachan after 11pm it’s unlikely you’ll get a lift or taxi unless booked in advance. Hindsight would recommend pitching a tent or leaving bikes or bivvy stuff.
Stone Muppet 31 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure where the VD grade comes from when the consensus for both the TD gap and Bhastair Tooth is HS? They're optional, I suppose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure where the VD grade comes from when the consensus for both the TD gap and Bhastair Tooth is HS? They're optional, I suppose.
Baker3915 31 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Careful with loose blocks, make sure you have ideas for getting water if you need it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Careful with loose blocks, make sure you have ideas for getting water if you need it
SimonWooden 26 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. Came in from Elgol on lunchtime boat, finished similar time 2 days later. Mark led the gap and chimney - found gap tough with soft approach shoes and heavy packs. Super lucky with weather. Midges on first night but second night had magnificent cloud inversion and clear sky.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. Came in from Elgol on lunchtime boat, finished similar time 2 days later. Mark led the gap and chimney - found gap tough with soft approach shoes and heavy packs. Super lucky with weather. Midges on first night but second night had magnificent cloud inversion and clear sky.
Steve Bartle 22 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be very careful to stay on route if doing Lota Corrie route...some sketchy rock here with some tricky but short moves and very bad consequences
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be very careful to stay on route if doing Lota Corrie route...some sketchy rock here with some tricky but short moves and very bad consequences
climbingrev 18 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I'd absolutely recommend this 2 bivvy method - so chilled - if you have the time / weather
Show beta
βeta: I'd absolutely recommend this 2 bivvy method - so chilled - if you have the time / weather
Simon Theobald 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 3rd time for me but great to be able to do as a father & son team (I couldn't have led the TD Gap these days!). We kept going at an even pace and worked well as a team
Show beta
βeta: 3rd time for me but great to be able to do as a father & son team (I couldn't have led the TD Gap these days!). We kept going at an even pace and worked well as a team
CarlosTT 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First try of the ridge in an amazing day but we came off just before Inn Pinn for an injury.
Show beta
βeta: First try of the ridge in an amazing day but we came off just before Inn Pinn for an injury.

Logged Ascents

1326 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Cuillin Ridge (Traverse)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 765 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 122
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Toproped
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Window Buttress Original Route

Grade: VD ***
(Sgurr Dearg (Inaccessible Pinnacle))

Loading Notifications...