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Amber Buttress** HVS 5a

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14m. A bold little gem. Climb the wall and flake crack to the break, stuff in some runners and swing onto the ledge on the right. Make an awkward move up to an obvious sidepull and then reach up for the large ledge. Finish up the arete to the right.
Barrie Dixon, Tom Proctor

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 62 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Ropeboy - Lead - 12/Apr/14

vanderz - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/13

Repeat, first done in 96.
jshields - Lead - 14/Aug/13 with Jeff Ingman

Nice big moves in the lower part followed by a precarious and bold feeling upper part.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Chris, Pete

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 26/Apr/13 with Graeme

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/12

andybirtwistle - Lead - 02/Aug/12 with Keith Lonsdale

Delicate moves with protection out of sight and getting further away all the time... Not sure I could have lead this today.
petemeads - 2nd - 26/Jul/12 with Masa

I seconded last year (hence "worked").
masa-alpin - Lead RP - 26/Jul/12 with Pete Meads, Jamie R, Martin L

shaky2 - Lead - 19/Jun/12

petellis - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/12 with Sloth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12

Started raining when I got to the ledge on the right. Waited 15 minutes for it to stop and dry out. Took a little bit to psyche myself for the top, which is much much easier than it looks.
Alkis - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Chris Aslin

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with alkis

Brilliant route. Not sure if I missed a gear placement, wouldn't of wanted to fluff the crux. Felt committing and a bit exposed but wasn't as bad as it seemed when you went for it. Wasn't easy though.
charley - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Steve Fletcher

chumleywarner - 2nd O/S - 29/May/12 with Charley Fell

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12

Jenny Clarke - 2nd O/S - Mar/12 with dave

mark20 - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Feb/12

Nice climb. Couldn't reach the sidepull from the ledge so had to do a hard, thin move(5b?) to get it quite a bit above gear, fun times (especially as it was trying to drizzle). Would be much less exciting for the tall!
catblack - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/11 with Andy Barker

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Chris

also 2nded with Jim 26-4-2013
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 03/Sep/11 with Richard

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Graeme Hammond

cem - Lead β - 14/Aug/11 with Graham Dolman

Kirill - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Graham Dolman, Charles Moreton

Brian lead it. It is graded as VS 4c in the old definitive Chatsworth guidebook. No way! It would warrant VS even without the crux, which is hard 5a (maybe easier for the tall?) and is poorly protected.
masa-alpin - 2nd β - 30/Jun/11 with Natalie C, Matt B, Anni, Brian Q

Hidden - Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/11

stephenhartley - 2nd - 13/May/11 with Burns

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/11

Different Steve - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Guy Reid

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 09/Oct/10 with Wee man

Much harder if you cant reach the sidepull.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 09/Oct/10 with Mark Williams

chrisbussell - 2nd - 05/Oct/10 with Tim O'Neill

Col Allott - Solo O/S - 22/Sep/10

dpmUK - Lead dog - 22/Sep/10 with Jen

arctic_jen - 2nd - 22/Sep/10 with Dan

joese7en - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

bigdan050 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Tosh

BMC grade of HVS 5a seems more accurate.
slacky - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Ben

felt HVS as per the new guide to me, though that could have been more to do with it being fairly warm, even so the top felt a bit run out. What wasn't in question is the quality in its current state
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Rob

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Graeme H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10

nickcanute - 2010

A great route with a committing move to finish, lots of debate about the great but agreed that this is a VS
Pilch - Lead O/S - 07/May/09 with Graham and Jim1

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/08 with John Marsland

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Fairly tough 4c move needed to mantle into a rhoddy bush, with feet 2 or 3 metres above (admittedly very good) gear. A little nervy.
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Jaime

Hidden - Lead - 07/Oct/06

Greased off at the top!
Sankey - Lead dnf - 02/Jan/06 with Sam

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/03

nickdonohue - 2nd - 31/May/03 with Jim Barradale

cem - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/02 with Gawain Edwards

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2002

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Sep/00 with Bill G

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Feb/98

Mark Kemball - Lead - 17/Apr/83

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Voting
Total votes cast 64
hard E10 of 20
E10 of 20
easy E10 of 20
hard HVS6 of 20
HVS14 of 20
easy HVS0 of 20
hard VS0 of 20
VS0 of 20
easy VS0 of 20
hard 5b0 of 19
5b0 of 19
easy 5b6 of 19
hard 5a2 of 19
5a9 of 19
easy 5a2 of 19
hard 4c0 of 19
4c0 of 19
easy 4c0 of 19
3 Stars2 of 25
2 Stars16 of 25
1 Star7 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 62 (1.6%)
Lead36 of 62 (58.1%)
Followed23 of 62 (37.1%)
Unknown2 of 62 (3.2%)

'Climbed'23 of 62 (37.1%)
clean O/S31 of 62 (50.0%)
clean β2 of 62 (3.2%)
clean rpt2 of 62 (3.2%)
clean RP1 of 62 (1.6%)
dogged1 of 62 (1.6%)
dnf2 of 62 (3.2%)