Amber Buttress** HVS 5a

Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the side-wall. Head steeply to the short flake, place decent gear here then commit to moves round right to access a ledge. Head up the bold slab to a ledge and a finish up a short arete. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A bold little gem. Climb the wall and flake crack to the break, stuff in some runners and swing onto the ledge on the right. Make an awkward move up to an obvious sidepull and then reach up for the large ledge. Finish up the arete to the right.

Barrie Dixon, Tom Proctor

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

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This climb is in 73 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Robin Nichols - Solo rpt - 30/May/15 with Roger

Roget - Lead O/S - 30/May/15 with robin

Roget - Solo rpt - 30/May/15 with robin

martinbettridge06 - Lead - 14/May/15 with Alan parker

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Jul/14

Backed off the final moves aware of how low down the gear is. Abbing down to retrieve the gear showed the top holds to be covered in thick/crumbly litchenous growth. Take care.
mapperley samurai - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/14

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Chris Vanderz

Tricky getting around corner then no gear after.. Twitchy ring..
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 19/May/14 with AnnB

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/14

Oliver Houston - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/14

Ropeboy - Lead - 12/Apr/14

vanderz - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/13

Repeat, first done in 96.
jshields - Lead - 14/Aug/13 with Jeff Ingman

Nice big moves in the lower part followed by a precarious and bold feeling upper part.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Chris, Pete

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 26/Apr/13 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/12

andybirtwistle - Lead - 02/Aug/12 with Keith Lonsdale

Delicate moves with protection out of sight and getting further away all the time... Not sure I could have lead this today.
petemeads - 2nd - 26/Jul/12 with Masa

I seconded last year (hence "worked").
masa-alpin - Lead RP - 26/Jul/12 with Pete Meads, Jamie R, Martin L

shaky2 - Lead - 19/Jun/12

petellis - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/12 with Sloth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12

Started raining when I got to the ledge on the right. Waited 15 minutes for it to stop and dry out. Took a little bit to psyche myself for the top, which is much much easier than it looks.
Alkis - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Chris Aslin

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with alkis

Brilliant route. Not sure if I missed a gear placement, wouldn't of wanted to fluff the crux. Felt committing and a bit exposed but wasn't as bad as it seemed when you went for it. Wasn't easy though.
charley - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Steve Fletcher

chumleywarner - 2nd O/S - 29/May/12 with Charley Fell

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12

Jenny Clarke - 2nd O/S - Mar/12 with dave

mark20 - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Feb/12

Nice climb. Couldn't reach the sidepull from the ledge so had to do a hard, thin move(5b?) to get it quite a bit above gear, fun times (especially as it was trying to drizzle). Would be much less exciting for the tall!
catblack - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/11 with Andy Barker

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Chris Hindley

also 2nded with Jim 26-4-2013
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 03/Sep/11 with Richard Williams

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Graeme Hammond

cem - Lead β - 14/Aug/11 with Graham Dolman

Kirill - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Graham Dolman, Charles Moreton

Brian lead it. It is graded as VS 4c in the old definitive Chatsworth guidebook. No way! It would warrant VS even without the crux, which is hard 5a (maybe easier for the tall?) and is poorly protected.
masa-alpin - 2nd β - 30/Jun/11 with Natalie C, Matt B, Anni, Brian Q

Hidden - Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/11

stephenhartley - 2nd - 13/May/11 with Burns

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/11

Different Steve - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Guy Reid

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 09/Oct/10 with Wee man

Much harder if you cant reach the sidepull.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 09/Oct/10 with Mark Williams

chrisbussell - 2nd - 05/Oct/10 with Tim O'Neill

Col Allott - Solo O/S - 22/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Sep/10

arctic_jen - 2nd - 22/Sep/10 with Dan

joese7en - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

bigdan050 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Tosh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10

felt HVS as per the new guide to me, though that could have been more to do with it being fairly warm, even so the top felt a bit run out. What wasn't in question is the quality in its current state
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Rob

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Graeme H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10

nickcanute - 2010

A great route with a committing move to finish, lots of debate about the great but agreed that this is a VS
Pilch - Lead O/S - 07/May/09 with Graham and Jim1

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/08 with John Marsland

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Fairly tough 4c move needed to mantle into a rhoddy bush, with feet 2 or 3 metres above (admittedly very good) gear. A little nervy.
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Jaime

Hidden - Lead - 07/Oct/06

Greased off at the top!
Sankey - Lead dnf - 02/Jan/06 with Sam

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/03

nickdonohue - 2nd - 31/May/03 with Jim Barradale

cem - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/02 with Gawain Edwards

Urgles - Lead O/S - 2002

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Sep/00 with Bill G

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Feb/98

Mark Kemball - Lead - 17/Apr/83

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Total votes cast 72
hard E10 of 22
E10 of 22
easy E10 of 22
hard HVS6 of 22
HVS16 of 22
easy HVS0 of 22
hard VS0 of 22
VS0 of 22
easy VS0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 22
5b0 of 22
easy 5b6 of 22
hard 5a2 of 22
5a12 of 22
easy 5a2 of 22
hard 4c0 of 22
4c0 of 22
easy 4c0 of 22
3 Stars2 of 28
2 Stars19 of 28
1 Star7 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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