Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
A direct line that takes in some quite testing ground. Start below a very thin crack system in the wall to the left of Undercracker.
Climb up the thin crack system and continue directly to the base of the ramp-line of Twinkletoes and Undercracker. Follow the difficult thin crack in the left wall to finish. © Rockfax
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Alwaysinjured | 3 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Begrudging gear in first half gives a few thought-provoking run-outs (small brass off-sets useful). Crux section at top well protected. Overall, E1 5c fair. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Begrudging gear in first half gives a few thought-provoking run-outs (small brass off-sets useful). Crux section at top well protected. Overall, E1 5c fair. |
||||
L155a | 23 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: We did not climb the last section, moved across to Twinletoes. Weather extremely hot & humid | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: We did not climb the last section, moved across to Twinletoes. Weather extremely hot & humid |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Baggy Point)