UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax Description
A direct line that takes in some quite testing ground. Start below a very thin crack system in the wall to the left of Undercracker.
Climb up the thin crack system and continue directly to the base of the ramp-line of Twinkletoes and Undercracker. Follow the difficult thin crack in the left wall to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alwaysinjured 3 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Begrudging gear in first half gives a few thought-provoking run-outs (small brass off-sets useful). Crux section at top well protected. Overall, E1 5c fair.
Show beta
βeta: Begrudging gear in first half gives a few thought-provoking run-outs (small brass off-sets useful). Crux section at top well protected. Overall, E1 5c fair.
L155a 23 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We did not climb the last section, moved across to Twinletoes. Weather extremely hot & humid
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We did not climb the last section, moved across to Twinletoes. Weather extremely hot & humid

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hawaiian Pipeline

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Baggy Point)

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