25m. A jolly good route which enjoys a surprising variety of well protected moves. Use double ropes to minimise drag. Start immediately below the large recess at the left end of the crag and climb the left-facing corner easily to a nice ledge. Bridge the groove until forced to move left to the rib, climb this to a second ledge which offers a great thread runner. Move out right to the chimney and slip a wire through the tiny thread on the lip of the roof, mantle this and finish on easier ground to a choice of belays. Si Lynch 2009.

Ticklists: Strathspey's Finest, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes.


ClimberDateStyle
ModerateMatt 22/Aug 2nd rpt
with Guy Martin
Zoe Arschavir 18/Aug AltLd
with Lea Krimp
Hidden 14/Aug 2nd O/S
MrRiley 06/Aug Lead O/S

Excellent

laura.nicoll 22/Jul Lead
ModerateMatt 17/Jul 2nd rpt
with Mark J
maryleese 16/Jul 2nd
with Tom B, holly138
holly138 16/Jul 2nd rpt
with Mary Leese, Tom B
wardt_88 05/Jun 2nd
with Matt
ModerateMatt 05/Jun Lead rpt
with Tom W
b.chadwick 03/Jun -
Flashy 31/May AltLd O/S
with JMM
Chubbs 30/May AltLd
Hidden 22/May Lead
Si 06/May 2nd
with Rod, Becs
Merlin 17/Apr Lead O/S

Great route, lead P1,2&3. Worth every star. Mikes first trad route - think I scared him senseless...

with Mike Whitney
mjw ??/2016 2nd

Escaped through the squeeze at the top and finished up Chokestone Chiimney

with MB
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
mountain musher ??/2016 -
ModerateMatt 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S

We did it when it was dripping wet. Really fun route.

Hidden 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/15 AltLd
abbeywall 29/Aug/15 Lead rpt

As one pitch

huntymc 20/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ben Hardy
Tim Hamlet 20/Aug/15 Lead
with Oliver mentz
Bopper 10/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Eckymof
Hidden 05/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Solo O/S
gscw 12/Jul/15 AltLd
with Sonja
JoeDickens 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
steveq 02/Jun/15 2nd

Superb route. Climbed in 3 pitches.

fuzzysheep01 28/May/15 Lead O/S
Irelando 17/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/15 AltLd
arose 28/Apr/15 -
with Clients
Dan Still 28/Apr/15 AltLd
with Tim Churchfield
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead
dav_713 02/Apr/15 Lead
with Andy Hague
plain kitten ??/2015 -
SamSowden 29/Oct/14 2nd dnf
Cerris90 29/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Mark Bull 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great route, but currently requires climbing through a pile of stinking guano after the traverse - maybe better to do the Direct!

with Al
WeeTJ 13/Sep/14 2nd

In the dark!

remi_mcm 12/Sep/14 Lead
Samuel Wainwright 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd
DavidMcK ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
CaelanB 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
up the hill 25/Jun/14 AltLd
with kath, Tom Cameron
Jimmywhyte6 20/Jun/14 2nd

First time at Huntly Cave (school run) with John Lowther. Hard severe 4b

Benjamin Muis 12/Jun/14 2nd
steve.aisthorpe 12/Jun/14 Lead
with Benjamin Muis
annep 12/Jun/14 2nd
BelleVedere 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Climbed in 2 pitches (to the cave, from the cave). There's some wild moves in there :) Is say the most difficult bit was the crack before the traverse as it needed a bit of strength - the rest felt wild but was more position than udge. The Rain started just as i was leaving the cave, which spurred me into getting on with it sooner rather than later.

with Pete Armitage
steve.aisthorpe 02/Jun/14 Lead
with Alastair Seaman
kegless 30/May/14 AltLd
steve.aisthorpe 23/May/14 Lead

Climbed up to final roof in 2 pitches - then Scott exited through the squeeze and I abbed off, as it was raining and Scott was a bit intimidated by final bit

with Scott Aisthorpe
steve.aisthorpe 16/May/14 AltLd
with Hannah Burrows-Smith
Hidden 07/May/14 AltLd
jasthefras 07/May/14 2nd
with Michael
Michael.paparakis 07/May/14 2nd O/S
remi_mcm 08/Apr/14 Lead
henry.jeffreys 03/Jan/14 Lead O/S

'Stick Insect' finish

thetradlad 03/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Lizzie B 03/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
rashwell ?/Jan/14 Lead
kayakmonkey ??/2014 Lead
jon59 ??/2014 -
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
Keelan McNulty 21/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Did the climb in three pitches which was completely unnecessary. I led the second pitch including the traverse.

chewy098 21/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Led in 3 pitches due to most people seeming to do so but was a complete waste of time and made the climb last twice as long as it needed too. The climb itself was great not to difficult but did have some interesting moves which made you stop and think, such as the traverse and the crux. Overall a really good climb!

Alpenglow 14/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Really good route. Felt pretty exposed with interesting moves and line.

with Paul
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
remi_mcm 27/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/13 2nd O/S
onsight81 21/Sep/13 AltLd
peter.herd 02/Sep/13 Lead
with Stephen Mackenzie
stephenmckenzie 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
daftdazza 23/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch, great route.

phildawson 23/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
kato'sdad 19/Aug/13 Lead

MIA assessment

with Annie - Glenmore Lodge
cuthill76 18/Aug/13 Lead
abbeywall 03/Aug/13 Lead

2 pitches

with Aga, K
a.m.k. 03/Aug/13 2nd
with K, Alison
mhamiltonj 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ian Hamilton
Shaw Brown 23/Jul/13 Lead
annep 03/Jul/13 Lead
arose 02/Jul/13 2nd
with Matt Jeffcock, Adam Macintosh
Hidden 02/Jul/13 Lead
Mackinclimb 02/Jul/13 2nd
Dervey 17/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch direct

Callum_Johnson 08/Jun/13 Solo O/S
with Ian, Stuart M, Marcus M
Marcus McLernon 08/Jun/13 Solo
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead
payney1973 ?/Jun/13 Lead G/U

dry day

Hidden 14/May/13 2nd
Phil_Hall_97 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Garry Wardrope
Chris wilson 06/May/13 AltLd
with Marj
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Isti Baker 11/Apr/13 Lead
Marcus McLernon ?/Mar/13 Lead
StuartO ??/2013 -
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
rich_greeny 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

In 3 pitches (good practice after a long time out of multi-pitch); led first and the exposed third pitch.

with John Young
happy_swanney 21/Sep/12 2nd
with Patrick
Robert.harden 02/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Multipitch climb with a student. Concentrating on belay building and stance management.

Quad 22/Aug/12 AltLd rpt
with Jayne
JFort 22/Aug/12 AltLd rpt
with Geoff
Hidden 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S
planetmarshall 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Split into 2 pitches, led the 1st.

with Krish Hardowar
Hidden 15/Aug/12 2nd O/S
fall-line 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S

In one pitch.

with Andy Wank
Stephi 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with OwenF
OwenF 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Got head stuck in overhanging offwidth/cave thingy.

with Stephi
Andy Moles 10/Aug/12 AltLd rpt
Andy Moles 27/Jul/12 Solo rpt
with -
Hidden 25/Jul/12 2nd O/S
annep 23/Jul/12 2nd
ali mccalli 22/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/12 -
DaveB61 01/Jun/12 AltLd
with Adam Shaftoe
PAJames 28/Mar/12 -
Hidden 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/12 2nd
gw3285 05/Mar/12 Lead
markvader ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Fiona
RM199 16/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
Johann ??/2012 -
TheFatClimber ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 -
nowler 19/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with jamie n
samwillo 12/Nov/11 2nd
with Lairig Climbing Club
ZA 15/Oct/11 -
with Ben Robson, smcw
xusa 13/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/11 2nd O/S
niallk 25/Sep/11 2nd
with Pam
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead
Andy Hewison 09/Sep/11 Lead

Part of Glenmore Lodge lead climbing course. Great route but with some exposed moves.

stef050 01/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with niel, graeme watson
Andy Moles 31/Jul/11 Solo rpt
with -
Hidden 16/Jul/11 2nd
ellmang 14/Jul/11 AltLd
andrew549 14/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 18/Jun/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 16/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Mike Caine 13/Jun/11 2nd
with Giles Trussel
Hidden 08/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/11 2nd
DOVEY 02/Jun/11 Lead

Muiti Pitch

with Chris + Fran
DavPk 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great route with interesting moves and lots of exposure!

with Moka Hoffman, Simon Hayes
deanj ?/Jun/11 Lead
with 2 div AT
arduff 19/May/11 AltLd
isi_o 19/May/11 AltLd
Rickrick ?/May/11 AltLd
iainstap ?/May/11 Lead
nowler 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with forbes
johannes 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
franksnb 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

in 2 pitches, first pitch.

with keith
Scottish78 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
shorey1990 ??/2011 -
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Crowley6969 17/Oct/10 -
Hidden 20/Sep/10 Lead
steev 05/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Russel
Hidden 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 09/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
up the hill 27/Jul/10 AltLd
with Tom Cameron
Hidden 19/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
mikecollins 19/Jul/10 2nd
with manmike
mwicks1968 18/Jul/10 AltLd

Well exposed!

Hidden 13/Jul/10 2nd
nowler 30/Jun/10 -
Hidden 24/Jun/10 AltLd
chapmand 24/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S
tanglefairy 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Mike, BIG Al
Hidden 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S
tanglemonster 10/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with Chris
Hidden ?/Jun/10 TR
Hidden 27/May/10 Lead O/S
Quad 14/May/10 AltLd dnf

Rained off after 2nd pitch

with Jayne
JFort 14/May/10 AltLd dnf

Rained off :(

with Geoff
edkirkham 06/May/10 AltLd O/S
whispering nic 06/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
errrrm? 11/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

It's quite exposed at the top.

with gaz h
PeteLoveless 01/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with jon
jsrous 01/Oct/09 AltLd
with Pete L
Captain Solo 27/Sep/09 Solo
Dopey_172 17/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Awesome route, probably my favorite route to date. Done it in 3 pitches.

with Dougal Ranford
geoff.comley 21/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Ali Erginsoy
Hidden 04/Aug/09 AltLd
mikecollins 04/Aug/09 AltLd
with manmike
hazeysunshine 02/Aug/09 2nd
with Bob, Ann-Marie
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Swirly ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Hamish
simon_williams6 29/Jul/09 Lead O/S
RebekahD 29/Jul/09 2nd
with Andy Nisbet
Hidden 22/Jul/09 Lead β
Hidden 21/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Neil Mackenzie 10/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with kenny
Hidden 01/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Alastair MacSween 11/Jun/09 Lead
with Phil Warriner
holly138 29/May/09 2nd O/S
Fergus Cuthill 29/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead β
Hidden 22/May/09 Lead β
Hidden 14/May/09 AltLd
Stuzz 07/May/09 2nd O/S
with Jon
Hidden 04/May/09 Lead
Chris wilson 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Great route, difficult to find a better HS. Led it in one pitch (with long extenders!)

with Ryan
mulletcocktail2000 03/May/09 2nd rpt

still good

with chris
Hidden 23/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/09 2nd
steveadkinson 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 & 3.

with Si & John
joeydurkin 10/Apr/09 AltLd
with Tim
Hidden 25/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
freudy_love ??/2009 Lead
danimal88 ??/2009 Lead O/S
with piotr
whistler 24/Oct/08 Lead O/S

An epic !! In trainers, in the rain, in the dark. And the narrowest chimney ever !

with Anna
Hidden 19/Oct/08 2nd O/S
joeydurkin 12/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd
PMCV 10/Sep/08 AltLd
with Mark
Sandy Simpson 09/Aug/08 Lead
BallsOfSteel 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with duncan osgood
Fiona Reid 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Split into two pitches with me leading both as Mike didn't fancy leading the top section.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 29/Jun/08 2nd
with Fiona
Chris Davids 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Rob
Paz 09/Jun/08 2nd β
with SC
jw231 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ali Nurse
Alaister Nurse 05/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 04/May/08 AltLd
gaz.marshall ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jones
ewen 22/Apr/08 Lead
Sutty22 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Cracking exposure. Really enjoyed climbing this route.

with Soj
duncana 24/Feb/08 AltLd
with Pippa Archer
DerwentDiluted 19/Feb/08 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
wileejoe ??/2008 TR
with ally
matthew885 ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead
RobScotland 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Interesting, varied and exposed. Lower sections dry but mud on rock boots a problem - bring bar towel to clean boots in future. Upper third of route completely wet due to rain.

Hidden 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 24/Aug/07 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
steve.aisthorpe ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with alistair appleby
kjbix 20/Jul/07 -
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead
nukebat 29/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Stephen
stokesrees 09/Jun/07 AltLd
with Joe Nunn
andymoin 26/May/07 Lead O/S

Great wee route with some nice exposure, sever if you don't look down. Good luck fitting thro the top chimney btw!

with Dad
Peter Main 26/May/07 2nd
kwickfit 23/May/07 TR O/S

nice crag if the wind is up

dthomson 18/May/07 AltLd
with Mark Bannan
david wands 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with james
Hidden ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
nathan_kelly ?/Apr/07 2nd
with Ben Cluderay
elegant cheddar ??/2007 2nd
with adam hughes
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
richw2k2 01/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Monika
Moniawl 01/Sep/06 2nd O/S

very nice place

with rich
lewisgeddes ?/Aug/06 2nd
with Glenmore
ruggystunts 21/Jul/06 Lead
with Kev
mulletcocktail2000 07/Jun/06 Lead O/S

nice route with plenty of exposure, more intimidating than difficult.

with joe
barney_edin 28/May/06 Lead
peter fetlar ?/Apr/06 Lead
with Paul Whitworth
Steve Whaley 06/Dec/05 2nd O/S

For RCP with Chaz Counter and Max Spencer.

with Neil Martin
George Bassant ?/Sep/05 -
Jon Pilling ?/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with phil corral
Lawrie Brand 12/May/05 Lead O/S
with Keith
Old_Nick_S 07/May/05 -
with Irene
Hidden 30/Apr/05 Lead
Rampikino 08/Feb/05 AltLd
with Ian (Gravel)
Hidden 09/Sep/04 Lead O/S
davie.p. 11/Aug/04 2nd
with Jon
Jamie B ?/Aug/04 Lead
with Schuey
Tenko 21/May/04 -
Hidden 16/Apr/04 AltLd
dangates ??/2004 Lead
Jamie Simpson ??/2004 -
with Rick Scott
Hidden 09/Nov/03 2nd O/S
HIGHTOWER ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Griz
Rog Wilko ?/Sep/03 Lead
with Dick Baker
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jan/03 Lead
Andrew Barker ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/02 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/02 Lead
Raggar 15/Jun/02 2nd
with Ian M, Andy J
Lepista 15/May/02 Lead

JP / PS / BD

dave o 06/May/02 Lead O/S
with chris lawton
Hidden 13/Oct/01 2nd O/S
tallthinmonkey 24/Jul/01 2nd O/S
with Eilidh Paterson
IanMcC 29/Apr/01 AltLd
el diablo 29/Apr/01 AltLd
with Cabey
Stuart Macfarlane ?/Mar/01 2nd
with Iain F
brianrunner ??/2001 -
garethsteel ?/Oct/00 -
Jacob Ram 12/Jul/00 Lead
with elisa shub
Hidden ?/Jul/00 2nd
pgac 25/May/98 TR rpt
with wilko
auld al ?/Apr/98 AltLd O/S
Ben lad ??/1998 2nd
with bed bed
Hidden ??/1996 -
ewan i ??/1996 2nd
snowcat 17/May/94 2nd

Glenmore course

Hidden 29/Aug/92 Lead
pingora 08/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with F Lowe
Yourlead 22/Jul/91 Lead
with John Bocher
Rich Kay ?/Jul/91 2nd
Lone Rider ??/1989 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Potsy, Pluto, sazzles, IainMay, Nibs, mishabruml, Hidden, Hidden, morpcat, ClimbingGlen, Hidden, Sam Warby, Hyperopic, Dustin, Sean20, crombie, Alan100, Hidden, guyscott, Smeggles, Mac Ghille Aindrais
Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 35
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set