Cave Route*** HS 4b
[Cave Route HS*** - setting up for the second pitch, 2 kb]25m. A jolly good route which enjoys a surprising variety of well protected moves. Use double ropes to minimise drag. Start immediately below the large recess at the left end of the crag and climb the left-facing corner easily to a nice ledge. Bridge the groove until forced to move left to the rib, climb this to a second ledge which offers a great thread runner. Move out right to the chimney and slip a wire through the tiny thread on the lip of the roof, mantle this and finish on easier ground to a choice of belays. Si Lynch 2009.

Ticklists: Strathspey's Finest, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes.

Photo: Cave Route HS*** - setting up for the second pitch © Eric Janousek
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 280 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

SamSowden - 2nd dnf - 29/Oct/14

Cerris90 - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/14

Great route, but currently requires climbing through a pile of stinking guano after the traverse - maybe better to do the Direct!
Mark Bull - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Al

In the dark!
WeeTJ - 2nd - 13/Sep/14

remi_mcm - Lead - 12/Sep/14

Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/14

DavidMcK - Lead O/S - Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/14

CaelanB - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

up the hill - AltLd - 25/Jun/14 with kath, Tom Cameron

First time at Huntly Cave (school run) with John Lowther. Hard severe 4b
Jimmywhyte6 - 2nd - 20/Jun/14

Benjamin Muis - 2nd - 12/Jun/14

steve.aisthorpe - Lead - 12/Jun/14 with Benjamin Muis

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/14

Climbed in 2 pitches (to the cave, from the cave). There's some wild moves in there :) Is say the most difficult bit was the crack before the traverse as it needed a bit of strength - the rest felt wild but was more position than udge. The Rain started just as i was leaving the cave, which spurred me into getting on with it sooner rather than later.
BelleVedere - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Pete Armitage

steve.aisthorpe - Lead - 02/Jun/14 with Alastair Seaman

kegless - AltLd - 30/May/14

Climbed up to final roof in 2 pitches - then Scott exited through the squeeze and I abbed off, as it was raining and Scott was a bit intimidated by final bit
steve.aisthorpe - Lead - 23/May/14 with Scott Aisthorpe

steve.aisthorpe - AltLd - 16/May/14 with Hannah Burrows-Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 07/May/14

jasthefras - 2nd - 07/May/14 with Michael

Michael.paparakis - 2nd O/S - 07/May/14

remi_mcm - Lead - 08/Apr/14

'Stick Insect' finish
henry.jeffreys - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/14 with Lizzie Berg

thetradlad - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/14

Lizzie B - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/14 with Henry Jeffreys

rashwell - Lead - Jan/14

kayakmonkey - Lead - 2014

jon59 - 2014

gordigotama - 2014

Did the climb in three pitches which was completely unnecessary. I led the second pitch including the traverse.
Keelan McNulty - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/13 with Jim Jones

Led in 3 pitches due to most people seeming to do so but was a complete waste of time and made the climb last twice as long as it needed too. The climb itself was great not to difficult but did have some interesting moves which made you stop and think, such as the traverse and the crux. Overall a really good climb!
chewy098 - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/13 with Keelan McNulty

Really good route. Felt pretty exposed with interesting moves and line.
blackreaver - Lead O/S - 14/Dec/13 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

remi_mcm - 2nd - 27/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/13

onsight81 - AltLd - 21/Sep/13

peter.herd - Lead - 02/Sep/13 with Stephen Mackenzie

stephenmckenzie - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/13 with Pete Herd

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch, great route.
daftdazza - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/13

phildawson - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/13

MIA assessment
kato'sdad - Lead - 19/Aug/13 with Annie - Glenmore Lodge

cuthill76 - Lead - 18/Aug/13

2 pitches
abbeywall - Lead - 03/Aug/13 with Aga, K

a.m.k. - 2nd - 03/Aug/13 with K, Alison

mhamiltonj - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Ian Hamilton

Shaw Brown - Lead - 23/Jul/13 with Judith Neaves

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/13

arose - 2nd - 02/Jul/13 with Matt Jeffcock, Adam Macintosh

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/13

Mackinclimb - 2nd - 02/Jul/13

Led first pitch direct
Dervey - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/13

Callum_Johnson - Solo O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Andy, Ian, Stuart M, Marcus M

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/13

Phil_Hall_97 - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Garry Wardrope

Chris wilson - AltLd - 06/May/13 with Marj

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13

fireloveswater - Lead - Mar/13 with Andy Thomson

StuartO - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12

In 3 pitches (good practice after a long time out of multi-pitch); led first and the exposed third pitch.
rich_greeny - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12 with John Young

happy_swanney - 2nd - 21/Sep/12 with Patrick

Multipitch climb with a student. Concentrating on belay building and stance management.
Robert.harden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/12

Quad - AltLd rpt - 22/Aug/12 with Jayne

JFort - AltLd rpt - 22/Aug/12 with Geoff

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/12

Split into 2 pitches, led the 1st.
planetmarshall - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Krish Hardowar

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/12

In one pitch.
fall-line - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Andy Wank

Stephi - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with OwenF

Got head stuck in overhanging offwidth/cave thingy.
OwenF - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Stephi

Andy Moles - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/12

Andy Moles - Solo rpt - 27/Jul/12 with -

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/12

ali mccalli - Lead - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12

Hidden - 06/Jun/12

DaveB61 - AltLd - 01/Jun/12 with Adam Shaftoe

PAJames - 28/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Mar/12

gw3285 - Lead - 05/Mar/12

markvader - Lead O/S - Mar/12 with Fiona

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

adie84 - 2012

Johann - 2012

flett53 - 2012

Patzl - 2012

nowler - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/11 with jamie n

samwillo - 2nd - 12/Nov/11 with Lairig Climbing Club

ZA - 15/Oct/11 with Ben Robson, smcw

xusa - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/11 with Gareth Borthwick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/11

niallk - 2nd - 25/Sep/11 with Pam

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/11

Part of Glenmore Lodge lead climbing course. Great route but with some exposed moves.
Andy Hewison - Lead - 09/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11

stef050 - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/11 with niel, graeme watson

Andy Moles - Solo rpt - 31/Jul/11 with -

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/11

ellmang - AltLd - 14/Jul/11

andrew549 - AltLd - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/11

K9 - 2nd - 13/Jun/11 with Giles Trussel

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/11

Muiti Pitch
DOVEY - Lead - 02/Jun/11 with Chris + Fran

Great route with interesting moves and lots of exposure!
DavPk - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Moka Hoffman, Simon Hayes

deanj - Lead - Jun/11 with 2 div AT

arduff - AltLd - 19/May/11 with Isi Oakley

isi_o - AltLd - 19/May/11 with Andy Duff

Rickrick - AltLd - May/11

iainstap - Lead - May/11

nowler - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with forbes

johannes - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11

in 2 pitches, first pitch.
franksnb - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/11 with keith

Scottish78 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

shorey1990 - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

Crowley6969 - 17/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/10

steev - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Russel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10

bigbobbyking - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with jacob davies

Hidden - Lead - Aug/10

up the hill - AltLd - 27/Jul/10 with Tom Cameron

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Jul/10

mikecollins - 2nd - 19/Jul/10 with manmike

Well exposed!
mwicks1968 - AltLd - 18/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/10

nowler - 30/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10

tanglefairy - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10 with Mike, BIG Al

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10

tanglemonster - 2nd rpt - 10/Jun/10 with Chris

Hidden - TR - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/10

Rained off after 2nd pitch
Quad - AltLd dnf - 14/May/10 with Jayne

Rained off :(
JFort - AltLd dnf - 14/May/10 with Geoff

edkirkham - AltLd O/S - 06/May/10

whispering nic - Lead - 06/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

It's quite exposed at the top.
errrrm? - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/09 with gaz h

PeteLoveless - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/09 with jon

jsrous - AltLd - 01/Oct/09 with Pete L

Captain Solo - Solo - 27/Sep/09

Awesome route, probably my favorite route to date. Done it in 3 pitches.
Dopey_172 - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/09 with Dougal Ranford

geoff.comley - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Ali Erginsoy

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/09

mikecollins - AltLd - 04/Aug/09 with manmike

hazeysunshine - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Bob, Ann-Marie

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Swirly - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Hamish

simon_williams6 - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/09

RebekahD - 2nd - 29/Jul/09 with Andy Nisbet

Hidden - Lead β - 22/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/09

Neil Mackenzie - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/09 with kenny

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/09

Alastair MacSween - Lead - 11/Jun/09 with Phil Warriner

holly138 - 2nd O/S - 29/May/09 with Fergus Cuthill

Fergus Cuthill - Lead O/S - 29/May/09 with Holly Spice

Hidden - Lead β - 23/May/09

Hidden - Lead β - 22/May/09

Hidden - AltLd - 14/May/09

Stuzz - 2nd O/S - 07/May/09 with Jon

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/09

Great route, difficult to find a better HS. Led it in one pitch (with long extenders!)
Chris wilson - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Ryan

still good
mulletcocktail2000 - 2nd rpt - 03/May/09 with chris

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Apr/09

Led pitch 1 & 3.
steveadkinson - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Si & John

joeydurkin - AltLd - 10/Apr/09 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/09

freudy_love - Lead - 2009

An epic !! In trainers, in the rain, in the dark. And the narrowest chimney ever !
whistler - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/08 with Anna

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/08

joeydurkin - 2nd - 12/Oct/08 with Hightower

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Sep/08

PMCV - AltLd - 10/Sep/08 with Mark

Sandy Simpson - Lead - 09/Aug/08

BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/08 with duncan osgood

Split into two pitches with me leading both as Mike didn't fancy leading the top section.
Fiona Reid - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Mike

prog99 - 2nd - 29/Jun/08 with Fiona

Chris Davids - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Rob

Paz - 2nd β - 09/Jun/08 with SC

jw231 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/08 with Ali Nurse

Alaister Nurse - 2nd - 05/Jun/08 with James Whitlock

Hidden - AltLd - 04/May/08

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - May/08 with Jones

ewen - Lead - 22/Apr/08 with clare-dev

Cracking exposure. Really enjoyed climbing this route.
Sutty22 - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/08 with Soj

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 19/Feb/08 with Nicola Pettit

wileejoe - TR - 2008 with ally

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead - 22/Sep/07

Interesting, varied and exposed. Lower sections dry but mud on rock boots a problem - bring bar towel to clean boots in future. Upper third of route completely wet due to rain.
RobScotland - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/07

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/07 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/07 with victim of mathematics

steve.aisthorpe - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with alistair appleby

kjbix - 20/Jul/07 with Gary Caswell

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/07

nukebat - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/07 with Stephen

stokesrees - AltLd - 09/Jun/07 with Joe Nunn

Great wee route with some nice exposure, sever if you don't look down. Good luck fitting thro the top chimney btw!
andymoin - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Dad

Peter Main - 2nd - 26/May/07 with Andy Main

nice crag if the wind is up
kwickfit - TR O/S - 23/May/07

dthomson - AltLd - 18/May/07 with Mark Bannan

david wands - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/07 with james

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/07

nathan_kelly - 2nd - Apr/07 with Ben Cluderay

elegant cheddar - 2nd - 2007 with adam hughes

timmy-ts - 2007

richw2k2 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/06 with Monika

very nice place
Moniawl - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/06 with rich

lewisgeddes - 2nd - Aug/06 with Glenmore

ruggystunts - Lead - 21/Jul/06 with Kev

nice route with plenty of exposure, more intimidating than difficult.
mulletcocktail2000 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06 with joe

barney_edin - Lead - 28/May/06

peter fetlar - Lead - Apr/06 with Paul Whitworth

For RCP with Chaz Counter and Max Spencer.
Steve Whaley - 2nd O/S - 06/Dec/05 with Neil Martin

George Bassant - Sep/05

Jon Pilling - 2nd O/S - Jul/05 with phil corral

Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 12/May/05 with Keith

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/05

Rampikino - AltLd - 08/Feb/05 with Ian (Gravel)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/04

davie.p. - 2nd - 11/Aug/04 with Jon

Jamie B - Lead - Aug/04 with Schuey

Tenko - 21/May/04

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Apr/04

dangates - Lead - 2004

Jamie Simpson - 2004 with Rick Scott

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Nov/03

HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with Griz

Rog Wilko - Lead - Sep/03 with Dick Baker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jan/03

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/02

Raggar - 2nd - 15/Jun/02 with Ian M, Andy J

JP / PS / BD
Lepista - Lead - 15/May/02

dave o - Lead O/S - 06/May/02 with chris lawton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/01

tallthinmonkey - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/01 with Eilidh Paterson

Stuart Macfarlane - 2nd - Mar/01 with Iain F

brianrunner - 2001

Jacob Ram - Lead - 12/Jul/00 with elisa shub

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/00

pgac - TR rpt - 25/May/98 with wilko

auld al - AltLd O/S - Apr/98

Ben lad - 2nd - 1998 with bed bed

Hidden - 1996

ewan i - 2nd - 1996

Glenmore course
snowcat - 2nd - 17/May/94

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/92

Yourlead - Lead - 22/Jul/91 with John Bocher

Templeton Adams - 2nd - Jul/91

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
morpcat, ClimbingGlen, Sam Warby, Hyperopic, Dustin, Sean20, crombie, Alan100, guyscott, Smeggles, Mac Ghille Aindrais

Voting
Total votes cast 79
hard VS0 of 29
VS0 of 29
easy VS0 of 29
hard HS3 of 29
HS25 of 29
easy HS0 of 29
hard S1 of 29
S0 of 29
easy S0 of 29
hard 4c0 of 23
4c0 of 23
easy 4c0 of 23
hard 4b0 of 23
4b19 of 23
easy 4b0 of 23
hard 4a4 of 23
4a0 of 23
easy 4a0 of 23
3 Stars26 of 27
2 Stars1 of 27
1 Star0 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dnf