Penguin Gully*** III 4
[Penguin Gully III,4 ****, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Penguin Gully III,4 **** © PAJames
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This climb is in 75 logbooks, and on 35 wishlists.

ice on the first pitch was pretty cruddy, backed off after second pitch due to large quantities of unstable windslab...
alastairbegley - Lead dnf - 01/Mar/15

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/Mar/15

gregor - 27/Mar/14

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/14 with Kelli Roberts

Pitched first pitch then moved together, first pitch pretty cruddy the rest banked out.... Also a curling cornice ready to go at the top! Still, nice climb and brilliant views from the top!
kelliroberts3 - 04/Feb/14 with Peter Rigby

Adrian lead the two hard pitches, fantastic climb with continued interesting sections, in a superb setting.
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Adrian

david0811 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with debbie, Dave Riley

Excellent conditions and a very sociable day on the route. Last few rope lengths go on a bit though!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Dave Marshall, Debbie Lee

Awesome. Very long and we were a bit slow. 14 hours car to car!
fall-line - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Sarah Kirton

skirton - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Donald Slater

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/13

Not stepped out at all, even with all the recent ascents.
Col Kingshott - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Brilo

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/13

Enjoyed better conditions than my previous ascent.
Captain Solo - Solo rpt - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/13

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Mar/13

Then did 3 Munros - rather a long day out!
net - AltLd - 27/Mar/13 with George

GPN - AltLd - 27/Mar/13 with Annette

Must be 15 years since i last climbed Penguin Gully..nice wee route!
luckyjim - Solo - 26/Mar/13

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/13 with Andy

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/13 with Ferdia

A good climb with some intresting ice steps. The walk in was not so good! Windy and hard work breaking trail. Found Andy Nisbet's lost axe
petegunn - Solo - 21/Mar/13 with Davina

Simul climbed mostly. 2 belays. Bloody long and good! Lots of fresh snow and good ice. Dropped my goggles though. Biking back out was a treat!
peter.herd - AltLd - 17/Mar/13 with Steven A

Always a great climb. The entry ice pitch was pretty steep this time and there was some slab dodging higher up but lovely ice pitches.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/13 with Pete

Took direct start up icefall. Great route but lost 2 BD ice screws due to caritool gate popping open, near the top. Think they probably ended up part way down the gully. If anyone finds them I'd very much appreciate their return.
DavPk - AltLd - 09/Mar/13 with Dave Heritage

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Feb/13
PAJames - 25/Feb/13

sj87 - 2nd - 25/Feb/13

rooftops - 2nd O/S - 23/Feb/13

abbeywall - AltLd - 22/Feb/13 with K

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Feb/13

konacol - AltLd - 20/Feb/13 with Robert McMurray

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Sam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13

ollie1 - AltLd - 19/Feb/13 with alex shipp

sgl - AltLd - 19/Feb/13 with Bart

Hard day in the office! Led the whole route, and took in an additional second icefall, which added a bit more interest to an already great route.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 18/Feb/13 with Victor, John

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Feb/13

Finally bagged this route and my 3rd last munro. In great condition, fantastic weather and charming partner
markharro - Lead - 12/Feb/13 with Polina

Robertgiddy - AltLd - 12/Feb/13

gregor - 11/Feb/13

Tdavy01 - 09/Feb/13

Earned its stars - turned into a bit of an epic which highlighted importance of fast rope work when climbing as a three
ChrisWills - AltLd O/S - Feb/13 with Sam Turton, Aaron O'Leary

Rickrick - AltLd - Jan/13

malc - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/12 with Joe, Robin

Made it out here at last and in fantastic condition - pitched the first IV icefall and then moved together for the rest.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/12 with Kane

Hidden - 2012

Climbed with Andy Bailey. In good condition. 8 pitches, 6 pitches with technical sections, excellent blue ice on 5th pitch. Soft snow for 2 pitches, exited up ice RHS to avoid snow plod.
Hazie - AltLd - 19/Mar/11

robgixer - AltLd - Mar/11

Hidden - 23/Feb/11

adie84 - 2011

Rodders28 - 2nd O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

t_stork - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Marcus Brown

Hidden - Lead - 20/Feb/10

first two pitches were great, everything else was grade 1 - moved together for the final 3/4 pitches
frecro - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Zoe Thornton

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Feb/10

2 nice ice pitches and then an easy gully to the top for a shorts and t-shirt stroll to the summit.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Richard Lines

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jan/10

Hidden - Solo - 21/Jan/10

windy100 - 2009

Spade - AltLd - 10/Feb/07 with Jim Turner

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Apr/06 with Stuart Shaw

Captain Solo - AltLd - 19/Mar/06 with Mark

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Feb/06 with Dan Graves

Tom Vivian - AltLd O/S - Feb/06

Jamie B - AltLd - Feb/05 with Alex Glasgow

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/97

Hidden - Lead - 1996

Mick King - 2nd - 12/Mar/90 with Simon Jenkins, Mark Lester, Paul "Doc" Lishman

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Amy Pritchett, Jaylaz, climbingronnie, Chrismith, kenneM, JonmapDL, Happy Haggis, iksander, joe king, Andrew Barker, Sutty22, oscaig, mikesuth, Simon Caldwell, Timo Austino, johnkeith, lawrenceK, Lawrie Brand, Dinger, dthomson, andymoin, lewisl

Total votes cast 67
hard IV0 of 24
IV0 of 24
easy IV0 of 24
hard III6 of 24
III18 of 24
easy III0 of 24
hard II/III0 of 24
II/III0 of 24
easy II/III0 of 24
hard 50 of 23
50 of 23
easy 50 of 23
hard 43 of 23
46 of 23
easy 49 of 23
hard 35 of 23
30 of 23
easy 30 of 23
3 Stars13 of 20
2 Stars6 of 20
1 Star1 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat