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The Watchtower*** XS 5b

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Five star traverse part 1 >>
[Anna on the watchtower traverse, 2 kb](First third only, as far as Thunder Hole). Even though the Watchtower Traverse in its entirety weighs in at 225m and 6c+, I've separated the post Thunder Hole half of the route. This is because Thunder Hole itself has one section that still uses a rope for aid (or protection) and the latter section of the route offers little in the way of good rock and nice positions, despite appearances. By contrast, the first section, across an almost endless tapestry of slanted diagonal cracks on a steep slab, gives some really superb climbing, burying the soloist within some really solid, colourful architecture. The final bonus; you'll rarely be further than 4m from the sea! 95m. Down-climb the slabs on the east side of London Bridge, and traverse all the way to the big cave feature of Thunder Hole, with good water all the way. There are sometimes a few moves on slabs that you'd probably need to 'push' away from, in the event of a slip. Be prepared for a swim back. © ROCKFAX
An amazing trip around Thunder hole. Traverse from the base of the London Bridge wall. An aid move across thunder hole and some frantic edge pulling brings you to the rest of this fine climb

Photo: Anna on the watchtower traverse © francois
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Upto just before thunder hole and back
Sophie Nunn - Solo - 25/Jun/14

Upto just before thunder hole and back
gidmord - Solo - 25/Jun/14 with Sophie Nunn

first pitch to thunder hole then climbed back.. highly enjoyable
dbrooks - Solo O/S - 22/Jun/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jun/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jun/14

Mega! Big up Team Shark Bait
Gilster - Solo O/S - 12/Jun/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Sep/13

andy south devon - Solo O/S - 20/Aug/13

timreynolds - Solo - 24/Jul/13

London Bridge to Thunder hole sculpture route en mass. Swim the Hole, and this year got 2 moves further on the final crux section, could also see the next moves, but still some way off this. At current rate of progress clean in 10 years. I still can,t believe how little attention the Watchtower gets, a brilliant adventure above deep deep Riviera seas.
chris ebbutt - Solo - 24/Jul/13 with petecallaghan, Tim, Jamie, Emma, Stuart, Mark

bens - Solo - 24/Jul/13

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jul/13

Only swam Thunder Hole and around the crux - great fun
Jamiet297 - Solo - 24/Jul/13 with SDMC Mass Outing

DWS - With lots of falling in!
mark schramm - Solo - 24/Jul/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Jul/13

Got a bit confused about half way along and couldn't figure out where to go. Still, cool route.
Tom Last - Solo - 09/Jul/13 with Billy

Part 1 only London Bridge to Thunder Hole
Dritz186 - Solo - 09/Jul/13 with Si Warren

With swimming!
mike.moss - Solo dnf - 30/Jun/13 with Roly Chuter

Nick Biven - 2013

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/12

Didn't start from London Bridge but scrambled down some slabs to the east as per the dws guidebook, the rest was quite easy except for 2 evil spiders blocking the way. Swam back
Stroppy - Solo O/S - 01/Sep/12

Grabtheslab - Solo - 14/Aug/12 with Mykl white

Got a little further than last year, started at high tide mark on the back of the Duck wall all the way to Thunder Hole, zawn swim then good climbing to the final blank wall 30 ft short of the quarried ledge. Think I need biggest tide possible and take a rising break 30ft? above high tide mark to gain quarry dry.
chris ebbutt - Solo - 18/Jul/12 with steveprice.exmouth, petecallaghan, Stuart

Hidden - 2012

quite fun climb with sea below tricky crux move in crack
zachbassett10 - Solo RP - 23/Nov/11 with tom baker

small crimpy holds, on low tide barnicals shows which are very sharp.
Alex BT 18 - Solo RP - 23/Nov/11

Impromptu DWS with Pete and his friend Andy Hempstead and friend. All the way to Thunder Hole and swam half way back (leaving Pete for dead) :-)
alice fuller - Solo O/S - 23/Sep/11 with kafoozalem

Hidden - Solo rpt - 25/Jul/11

timreynolds - Solo - 13/Jul/11

London Bridge to Thunder Hole then a mix of swimming and climbing for the rest
Chaman - Solo - 13/Jul/11

As per Chaman London Bridge to Thunderhole excellant fun then mixture of climbing and swimming - wish my swimming was stronger as got very tired
DCIGadget - Solo dnf - 13/Jul/11 with Dr Fox, chris sdmc, tim sdmc, Dave Coley, chris ebbutt

chris ebbutt - Solo - 13/Jul/11

Hidden - Solo - 13/Jul/11

out and back, classic rock DWS
Alex More - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/11 with KDhruev

KDhruev - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Alex More

timrowland - Solo - 10/Apr/11 with Rob H, jmjw

jmjw - Solo - 10/Apr/11 with Rob H, Tim R

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/10

adam kendrick - Solo - 21/Oct/10 with richard mardell

Part 1 only. F5+ London Bridge to Thunder Hole and back again.
Shaw Brown - Solo - 08/Aug/10 with Loz

thomb - Solo - 07/Jul/10

John Mcshea - Solo O/S - Jul/10 with tom rainbow

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jun/10

Hidden - Solo β - 24/May/10

Part 1 only. F5+ London Bridge to Thunder Hole and back again.
adamscottthomas - Solo O/S - 24/May/10 with Kafoozalem

BelayBunney - Solo - 22/May/10 with Francois

Finally done it without any swims around the big reef. The harbour master popped over after some concerns from onlookers. Might be worth warning them when undertaking this climb. The exit at the final quarried platform is desperate if the tide is too low (loose barnacles). Watch out!
francois - 22/May/10 with Chris

lukewilliams - 13/Sep/09

Planned to do sections 1&2. Weather turned so we jumped in and swam back. Swim is not easy, be aware of the tide
pedro.silva - Solo dnf - 05/Jul/09 with Kafoozalem

You'll need a high spring tide for the crux in the first half, otherwise there' a big ledge waiting for you in the water!
francois - Solo - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo - 03/Aug/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Sep/07

Dhonny_Jaws - Solo O/S - 29/Sep/07 with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter

francois - Solo dnf - 08/Sep/07 with Anna and Hugo

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/00

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Voting
Total votes cast 14
hard 5c0 of 5
5c0 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
hard 5b0 of 5
5b0 of 5
easy 5b0 of 5
hard 5a4 of 5
5a1 of 5
easy 5a0 of 5
3 Stars4 of 7
2 Stars2 of 7
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Style of ascent

Soloed51 of 57 (89.5%)
Alt Leads1 of 57 (1.8%)
Unknown5 of 57 (8.8%)

'Climbed'30 of 57 (52.6%)
clean O/S19 of 57 (33.3%)
clean β1 of 57 (1.8%)
clean rpt1 of 57 (1.8%)
clean RP2 of 57 (3.5%)
dnf4 of 57 (7.0%)