Rockfax Description
Fantastic slab moves on some of the best mountain rock in Wales.
1) 4c, 32m. Climb the polished ramp right to reach the overlap. Climb leftwards below this to gain the perfect crack in the rounded rib. Follow this to the ledge.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb a short wall to gain a slab, make a reach to gain a hold that leads onto the airy arete. Climb this to gain the large bay.
3) 5a, 22m. A difficult and committing pitch. Traverse left across flaky crimps to gain the niche and follow a crack to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Hidden 25/Jun AltLd dnf
max_dickens 22/Jun AltLd O/S

Last route in Wales until my last year studying in this incredible place. Last pitch was a bit necky to second as Bow basically pulled out all the runners pulling the ropes.

with Bow
James Beaumont 22/Jun AltLd O/S

Felt abit bad for max having to second the last pitch after I accidentally pulled the runners out, but he should really thank me for a character building traverse

with Max
Ollieaxon 18/Jun -
Darboak42 04/Jun Lead

Did not do last pitch,finished up chimney instead

Harry Ellis 03/Jun AltLd
with Siobhan
ChrisVickers 02/Jun 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May -
Dave Lyon 24/May AltLd O/S
with Brian Seery
jwpil 15/May Lead O/S
ErikWaskiewicz 08/May 2nd O/S

Just the first pitch then abbed off

with Matt
anguskille 03/May AltLd O/S
Butel 02/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr Lead
steady 23/Apr Lead dnf

First two pitches were amazing ... could not get established on final pitch. Wimped out up chimney ... but even that felt enjoyable ... something in the Welsh air :)

with Anna Fedorova
shed_hed 22/Apr AltLd rpt

Led P2. Last pitch is just fantastic.

GwilymR 25/Mar Lead O/S
with Jammy
chris cockbain 28/Feb Lead O/S

Fun but cold climbing, Anna took a bit of a swing seconding the final pitch

jcooper8 01/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Tubs 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

P3. Seconded Simon Cook up the first two pitches on a school trip thirteen years ago but remembered nothing other than refusing to countenance the 5a pitch. Probably only 1*, good but a lot of easy ground and very escapable.

with Tim Mc, John T
Hidden 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
andyclimber 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S
sambeaumont 18/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Hidden 18/Sep/15 AltLd
Mackinclimb 17/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Danny Crump 17/Sep/15 AltLd
TomGB 13/Sep/15 AltLd dnf

Stew led P1, I led P2 which I thought was pretty stiff with gear very hard to come by. We looked at P3 and sacked it, escaping up the VDiff.

with Stewart Moody
Hidden 11/Sep/15 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/Sep/15 Lead

1hr 57 mins car to car

with Harry Turnbull
SenzuBean 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Paul led P1 and P3, I led P2. I found P1 nice and straightforward, P2 was hard to read and protect, and P3 was obviously the star of the show. Paul f*&^ed it up somehow! I managed it without incident. My first HVS!

with Paul C
jon_gill1 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

JR P1, MC P2 and me P3

with Matt Chapleo, john ripley
ripper 05/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
james1978 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with chris douglas
tcn_2002 29/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S
caradoc 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 felt quite tense, hard to read moves with hard to read fall potential. Previously 12 05 01 . A bit of a film here:

with Matt H.
James Oakes 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Fragmod 19/Jul/15 Lead
Martin Davies 18/Jul/15 Lead dnf

P1 superb, great climbing. P2 good, exposed on arete and was blowing a hoolie! Started P3 but thought better of it and finished up VD chimney. One to come back for!

67hours 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Great route. Did a lot of shouting on the P3 traverse.

with Al Docherz
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 10/Jul/15 AltLd rpt

Finally nailed the top pitch. The top crack is the crux. To protect the second on the top pitch, use two ropes, one for the traverse and one for the crack. Your gear on the traverse may still fall out when you take in from the belay though. Spoiler alert: the "hand traverse" isn't - use a hidden pocket/hold on the arete to get your feet onto it and walk across.

with Climbing Joe from Anglesey
Hidden 08/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Lucylou19 01/Jul/15 AltLd dnf

Jeannie led pitch 1, I led pitch 2. Bailed onto direct route instead of doing pitch 3 as it started raining. First 2 pitches were brilliant, some of the best climbing in North Wales that I've done so far, pitch 3 takes an incredibly aesthetic line, and I will definatley be back to do it, on a dry, less muggy day!

with Jeannie Sherwood
Hidden 01/Jul/15 AltLd dnf
Ali D ?/Jul/15 AltLd
Marcin78 ?/Jul/15 AltLd
with Tomek
kyaizawa 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2&3. Quick evening climb escalated into a bit of a longer affair as second didn't fancy the swing seconding P3.

Emma Reynolds 08/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

Lead P1, got scared seconding P2 (was a bit short, needed to step down instead of trying to reach). Ky lead P3 after Rob, who left some gear. Rob's gear all fell out, leaving the pitch unprotected with a swing on very stretchy ropes! Ky protected it with another rope but I couldn't get the sequence right; pocket on the right hand face too high up, and when high foot was used the left hand slipped off the sloper. Bailed and scrambled up the side.

98%monkey 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

all pitches

with Al Dibben
Dibdawg 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Phil Mitchel
esther ?/Jun/15 Lead
Martin Brierley 29/May/15 AltLd dnf

Lead pitch 1, seconded pitch 2 with a rucksack - interesting at points! We backed off pitch three because it was 8 pm, starting to rain, we were shivering uncontrollably and I didn't fancy committing to the start of the last pitch in those conditions.

alexm198 27/May/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3 (crux). Committing to the traverse on P3 was pretty scary. Steep crack right at the top was probably the actual crux though.

with Nick Lyons
dkd 27/May/15 -
Dan Vaj 25/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the top 3 pitches (as 2)

with Khalid
khalidq 25/May/15 AltLd rpt

Led P1

Hidden 20/May/15 2nd
guy757 19/May/15 -
mzk 16/May/15 -
Amazoniangirl 16/May/15 2nd

30mph winds!

Sardien 14/May/15 AltLd rpt
with Johnny
Awinter 11/May/15 2nd
rushy11111918 11/May/15 AltLd

Bailed out of the crux top pitch due to high winds and finished an easier way.

with Ceire Booth
Hidden 04/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 AltLd O/S
Rafal Malczyk 04/May/15 AltLd O/S

Nice route but very polished. I led last pitch.

with Ian Pegg, Rich Apthorp
ipegg 04/May/15 AltLd
Francis Hardy 04/May/15 AltLd

Led the middle pitch. Would love to come back and lead the first and third!

clams ?/May/15 Lead

Took a while to arrange gear and head on p3

CatMc ?/May/15 2nd dog
with clams
colinthomson5 26/Apr/15 Lead dog

Slipped on the crux, great climb

JimboWizbo 18/Apr/15 Lead

Last pitch only, one of the shortest and best pitches I've ever done. Don't look down.

with Steve S
jmills94 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

me p1 michael 2 and 3. pitch 2 really nice climbing and would have felt bold on lead but your rocking onto good footholds. p3 scary at first and i failed to commit so michael cruised it in 6 mins... crimps are very positive but sorting your feet our is hard unless you just cut loose like some! solid 5a

with michael, chris
Mike505 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

P2 & P2 good moves throughout, polished to glass on the first move of P1, exposed traverse on P3 is rewarded with a brilliant finishing crack. A great introduction to Welsh rock thanks to Joe!!

with Chris, jmills94
Hidden 09/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
dkd 09/Apr/15 AltLd
with karly54
DavidEvans 07/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd

with Ste Brock
Hidden ??/2015 -
khalidq 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Michael Royals
Hidden 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
waydan 11/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

What a cracking climb literally.

StevieJ 23/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Seconded as Mock Student as part of Rob's MIA training.

with lithos
lithos 23/Sep/14 Lead

P1 only, up and down in 40 mins

with steve j
Stopsy 19/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Bede
adamre12 19/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led p1+3 great with an unusual amount of stuck gear. Tough p3

Qureshi 19/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
bede.west 19/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Stopsy
Rosie Henstock 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Mark D 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tommy B
TGreen 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
JamieSparkes 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great climbing, strange amount of polish on the first flake when compared to the rest of the route. Done in the twilight, stuck wire meant it was dark by the time we got to the ledge below the final pitch, so finished up the chimney of the direct. Last pitch looks wild and will be back for it at some point for sure!

Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead rpt
beakerburgess 24/Aug/14 AltLd
with James Weale
jon clayton 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/14 2nd
Matt Harmon 09/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Led P1. Couldnt commit to final pitch so continued up the polish of direct route. 4 pieces of stuck gear in first pitch made it feel almost like a sport route!

with Sam Ash
Sam Ash 09/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Lead P2. Matt didn't fancy last pitch, so finished up the chimney

with Matt the Fresher
Hidden 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Dawn_K_B 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2, ace airy arete! Well done on P3 Calum, hard! Best route of the holiday?

svdie 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
robpartridge ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Harry Wickham
kenneM 27/Jul/14 Lead
with Paul Elliott
rosieposey14 26/Jul/14 -
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
JamesLloyd 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 20/Jul/14 AltLd

Lead first pitch; Spencer did second- very bold with little gear; didn't fancy third in dampish conditions so lead polished chimney escape!!

with Spenser
spenser 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Nik led P1, I led P2. Weather threatened/ Nik decided I deserved some punishment with a good old fashioned chimney so we finished up the chimney on direct route. P2 felt pretty run out but had some good climbing on it.

with Nik
NickJH 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with P Stridgen
fizzychewitt 15/Jul/14 AltLd
with Jayne
Hidden 15/Jul/14 AltLd
Alison Cairns 01/Jul/14 AltLd

I led p2 - found quite exciting despite having led it before. Pointed Hil at sandbag p3...

with hilary
Shane Willis 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mr mills 18/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
with Roger
Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
UncleMephisto 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic final pitch, and the rest is pretty ace as well.

Double Knee Bar 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 up to bold arete, got scared, very bold. rafe took over.

with Rafe
Pete Wimbush 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1+4

with Chris Hindley
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
dicky79 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
with James D
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Cake 17/May/14 AltLd dnf

Did not do last pitch due to cold. Messed up ropes a bit

with Matt
Rob Davies 17/May/14 AltLd dnf

Another failure on the top pitch due to committing lack of runners. Phil got some gear in (good enough to hang on!) but quickly fizzled out.

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Hansford
chancer 03/May/14 AltLd dnf
oodie72 03/May/14 AltLd dnf
Kazza91 ?/May/14 -
rbharries 28/Apr/14 AltLd


with Greg Cain
JackM92 22/Apr/14 2nd
Dan724 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Good rock. Would do this again, excellent climbing.

with Dan Jones
Danjones 15/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Still as good a route as ever! Still not really getting polished except for initial crack on first pitch. Second pitch good quality pleasant climbing. Top pitch still a scary affair that I have never lead! - exciting position, dubious gear that's difficult to place and hollow holds! Overall a great route!

with Dan Hale
Hidden 12/Apr/14 AltLd dnf
jsmcfarland 12/Apr/14 AltLd dnf

Only got to climb first pitch before getting rained off. It looked superb, can't wait to come back and finish it.

guy757 11/Apr/14 -
steven_daniels99 04/Apr/14 AltLd β

Led 1st, very windy and cold.

lithos 30/Mar/14 AltLd

P1, P3. P2 is bold - don't fall off the arete !

with paul s
Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
foostu4 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd
Olli-C 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

First pitch only. Really god pitch though!

with Chi
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Solo
Adam_42 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

With an MR chopper circling overhead.

with Andrew Wright, Pete Bayliss
Andrew Wright 16/Feb/14 2nd
with Adam B
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
dohart ??/2014 2nd O/S

1st pitch only

with peter
mike mo ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
Ssebo Banange ?/Dec/13 AltLd
Duncan Turner 12/Oct/13 Lead
Duncan Turner 11/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd
henry.jeffreys 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Mauricio Santos
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Andre Clarke 29/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out last pitch

with jamster
jezb1 26/Aug/13 Lead

Done before, just P1 with client this time.

Gareth T 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
Matt1234 09/Aug/13 AltLd dnf

First 2 pitches only

with Col
Col Kingshott 09/Aug/13 AltLd

Chickened out the last pitch😡

with Chris
Hidden 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
alicee 08/Aug/13 AltLd

I lead first pitch, Dan second pitch, and Niels the third :)

with Niels Ernst-Williams, Daniel Whitlum
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead
carl_123 28/Jul/13 AltLd
herman0055 24/Jul/13 AltLd

1pitch, straight in on polished footholds on the boomerang nice unsettling start. Top pitch fine, took some time to protect it, the final crack required some thinking about.

with Scott's simon
Hidden 23/Jul/13 2nd
Zoomer 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Class route, well protected 1st pitch...less so after. Committment needed on the last pitch!

ashsleight 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great route!

Mr Tickle 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S

A really good traverse on final pitch that requires commitment.

with davenev
davenev 19/Jul/13 2nd dnf

P3 too tough (or too scary) for me to get on - escaped up the evil polished chimney in the corner

with luke
demarcation86 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Classic trad route despite the polish.

with Paul
pryan300 13/Jul/13 AltLd dog
with T-Bone
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Alex Eperon 07/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
michael burrows 26/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

led p1 and p3, in situ wire on pitch 1 made life easier, cold fingers on p3 made life harder! such a good route

Dan Lane 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Led all pitched. I found the 2nd pitch to be not far off HVS 4c in it's own right...tricky moves in an airy position with only average gear a reasonable way below you - Makes for an exciting warm up before the glorious crux pitch.

with Natasha Oughton
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead
Craigyboy13 19/Jun/13 2nd

Nice climb, and no falls, had a moment on the traverse but got there in the end. Excellent climb, best so far

John Roe 09/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

Failed on the last pitch!!

Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd
roberts1234567890 04/Jun/13 AltLd
with will nicolls
JamesWilliams 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

amazing climbing all the way with a particularly good top pitch :) lead pitch 2

Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/13 -
Goose4 30/May/13 Lead O/S
edmitchell 19/May/13 AltLd O/S
with brmc members
james.slater 19/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Runout, and sketch in some places but not too hard. P 3 is phenomenal!

Hidden 02/May/13 2nd
stephenarnold 02/May/13 2nd O/S
Will Sheaff 23/Apr/13 2nd dnf
with Nick R
Duncan Campbell 19/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Would have been ace when it was new, very polished now!

with Bubbles
Sam Melville ??/2013 -
Neil D 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

NR led half of pitch two.

with Nadeem Rahim
Hidden 06/Oct/12 AltLd
Sam Melville 06/Oct/12 AltLd
with CLetham
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Dafydd Llywelyn 13/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd. Fantastic, last pitch was quite something in the wind!

shed_hed 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. Fantastic climbing all the way up, with an amazing top pitch. Found gear a bit fiddly on second pitch so just ended running it out a bit. Can get gear in to protect the traverse on the top pitch before starting it. Bron couldn't climb the top pitch in the wet so I got lowered down to get the gear back and then climbed it in the wet too. Got the ropes stuck after abseiling off so had to prussic back up to release them. Epic day!

with Bron Edwards
james chesmer ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Dafydd Llywelyn
BeckyBrown1989 25/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
w-watson 13/Aug/12 AltLd
highclimber 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

awesome climb though the top pitch is def harder than 5a! had to climb it twice as my second couldn't get up it and he's seconded 5c before!

Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd dnf
SallyMay 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Lead 1st and last pitch

Lloyders ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Paddy
air ?/Aug/12 -

just plain fun

with Simon
Dunx 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Joe M
richardlong78 21/Jun/12 Lead

First 2 pitches only VS4c

with Sophie Foxen
ali macphee 19/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
jezb1 17/May/12 AltLd

Ld p2 and top pitch. Really good route. 2 really good pitches leading to the great little traverse pitch.

Hidden 17/May/12 -
Stuart_Burbidge 16/May/12 Lead O/S

Hard, exposed last pitch. Awesome!

j.townley 16/May/12 2nd O/S

Amazing first two pitches, third pitch was interesting!!

Hidden 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

lead the middle pitch, very entertaining

with bed ay
Merlin Fincken ?/Apr/12 2nd dog
Daymo 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic Route

with DJ
deejmonkey 25/Mar/12 AltLd
with Damian
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 27/Nov/11 2nd dnf
Yong_Welsh 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Lead first 2 pitches, Lovely climbing, second pitch a beaut.

with Sean
Tanya Savage 02/Oct/11 2nd

Consistently interesting climbing. Bypassed the crux by going for a long dangle. last pitch a bit more than 5a methinks.

Neil Pacey 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, one the best HVS's I've led. Found the flake traverse hard for 5a, overall a very memorable climb, classic!

PaulWatson 01/Oct/11 AltLd

Nice climb on clean rock, great value VS on first two pitches. First two pitched only, led 2nd, Bottled 4a pitch after cruising the 4c. Probably qualified for the Club faffing award which afterall was invented by my partner. Yes I got it

with Colin
Timo Austino 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

A quick route after the kit presentations and headbutting the fire alarm panel at Plas y Brenin :)

with Annie
Darrell Read 25/Sep/11 AltLd

Led pitch 1. Ollie led pitch 2 and 3. Came off on pitch 1.

Ollie B 15/Sep/11 Solo O/S

Attempted day before, but didnt commit to the crux due to very high winds. Guess it should be ground up really

Rampikino 04/Sep/11 Lead

Outstanding route - well worth the grade. Pitch 3 is excellent.

with Cat
Hidden ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 15/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
sian88 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2

Hidden 05/Aug/11 AltLd
willoates 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

lead pitch two, really nice, then solod the final pitch afterwards. amazing, but not one i would put on my regular solo list.

with Phill, Steve
Steeve 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead
Chris Ebbutt 10/Jul/11 AltLd
with Johnathon
Bill Lawrence 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

led 2nd and last pitch. mint climb

with andy lawrence
Simon Cahill 29/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Joe lead final pitch after I backed off initial move on lead,

with Joe Bagley
spacey 29/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Evening dash from Manchester, through showers on A55 to a glorious sun drenched butress. I did P1&3, both superb, position for the moves on P3 are just fabulous.

Paul Evans 29/Jun/11 AltLd
with spacey
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
richardcreagh 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Led 1st, most of 2nd (partner didn't feel comfortable on crux) and 3rd pitches. Thought second pitch a lot harder than third, although it was quite damp...

Hidden 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
chriscarroll 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Really pleasant climbing, lead pitch 2...nice

with Owain
owain86 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P1 + P3

with Chris
Lxaddison 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P3. Very spicy on P3! Made a bit of a meal leaving the crack on P3. Really ace climb though!!!

with Paul Addison
Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/11 AltLd dnf
Ched 04/May/11 AltLd
with gali
hellboundblr 29/Apr/11 AltLd

Me P1 & P3, Steve P2. Loved all three pitches, best climb of weekend. Went quite low half way along traverse to avoid the delicate teeter, no foot holds that way, but big(ish) hand holds.

with Steve P
stevepotter 29/Apr/11 AltLd
with Bryan
wolf.leeb 25/Apr/11 Solo rpt

p1 and 2.. didnt fancy soloing the 3rd

tim newton 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with dan ely
dan ely 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with tim
Andy Clarke 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Snatched inbetween showers. Rewarded for our persistence with a rare double rainbow over Llyn Ogwen. Led Ps 1,3.

with Dale
Microwired22 15/Apr/11 -
Dale ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Ace route nice and exposed on top pitch. I got the second pitch which is very good went slightly off route had to do a heel hook on a 4c pitch hahaha fun. Andy got crux pitch it kept threatening with rain was going to take some photos but andy climbed it so fast didn't get any and didn't put any gear in, made him come back and put a piece in as I was in for a big swing if it had rained. Rain held off luckly the supposed top rope was caught under the gear so no top rope but it did'nt make any difference. super fri affternoon

with Andy
Cardi 27/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Great positions. Awesome exposure on top pitch

with Ruth
maresia 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Mental position and moves for the last pitch. I was all for avoiding it but Mike went for it despite my quivering. Glad he did. Awesome. The first two pitches aren't bad either.

thetradlad 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch. first two pitches are so plesant, the third is a little ballsy...

Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Julian Wedd ??/2011 2nd
with A. Brierley
Hidden ??/2011 -
paul79 ??/2011 AltLd
Mark Kemball 24/Oct/10 AltLd

Dodged the top pitch (the meat of the climb?) A bit tricky with cold hands and a rucksack - must go back for it.

with Nye Kemball, Nic Dill
TRFrost 10/Oct/10 2nd dnf
with L. Nedevska
matt.woodfield 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Sardien 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb. Good climbing on all 3 pitches so something nice for each of us to lead :-) Lead P3, took a few gos before I dared to leap for the juggy flake but got it. Moved out rigth on top 2 moves rather than tussling up the crag all the way

with Rhodri Morgan, Simon Moore
rd20 18/Sep/10 AltLd dnf

J Menlove Edwards centenary tribute didn't go well. RD new rock shoes didn't help and so started up (non-super) direct to right. Began to rain as Martin was leading P2. Wet rock and slippery shoes, meant RD came off when seconding P2. Did not attempt the Menlove 5a P3.

with Martin
smolders 18/Sep/10 AltLd dnf

Lead 2nd pitch, but went slightly off route towards the end. Decided not to attempt P3 because of rain.

Dan Geh 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
mattshort 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Alan100 15/Aug/10 AltLd

lovely 1st pitch - footholds are great if it's dry. 2nd is exposed and 3rd is great - not as scary as it looks because you can get gear in from the ledge :) great route tho - quality and quantity

amthalmann 01/Aug/10 AltLd
jgrigson 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Richard Gilbert 31/Jul/10 AltLd dnf

Jerry led P1, I struggled to remove his gear and got cross. This ruined what must be a lovely pitch. I led P2 in the rain, even so it felt soft for 4c. Rain continued so we abbed off before the crux P3. To be continued....

with Jerry Ostrowski
Keith Jones 21/Jul/10 AltLd

p1 again, remainder on Direct.

with Chris
christoph owen 21/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

P1 of superdirect. finished up direct

Hidden 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S 12/Jul/10 AltLd dnf

Wimped out of the final pitch, felt too weak for it.

with jamesca
david morse 28/Jun/10 AltLd
with lole
catblack 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Amazing and exposed final pitch, took a while to commit to the traverse! finished up the jamming crack.

Andrew Barker 22/Jun/10 2nd rpt

Led a few years ago but can't remember the date. The final pitch is still great fun.

mr mills 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Kairen
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 12/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Backed off lead on final pitch. Will led it.

Hidden 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
edpd1b ?/Jun/10 AltLd

Leo had top Pitch.

with Leo Scheltinga
Alison2 ?/Jun/10 2nd
sthame 31/May/10 2nd O/S
Bennykr 31/May/10 Lead O/S

awsome route, especially the final pitch

victim of mathematics 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3. Found the glossy initial layback harder than the crux pitch! Great climbing, but quite chilly in the wind.

with Andy
Noodles 21/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3, Really nice route despite the polished holds at the start.

with Justin Lawley
mynyddresident 19/May/10 AltLd
with chris
Hidden 19/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/May/10 AltLd
ilikemonkys 16/May/10 AltLd O/S

3rd Pitch lead

with Greg, Graham
Hidden 14/May/10 2nd
colina 11/May/10 AltLd

wandered onto pitch 3 and 4 on superdirect .need to trust my technique more.good day good company

with andy trek
Chris M 03/May/10 Lead
with Tommy B
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
Sgt. Vest 22/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with pete topham
Ken Applegate 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 3. Great route, with an absorbing traverse on pitch 3.

al99 27/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Luke Thomas
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
31770 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
sionjosh ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 30/Oct/09 Lead O/S

set off at midnight. night time climbing is the new daytime climbing. led P1 + P3.

with Ben alsford
adam coxsell 19/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Laurence Everitt 18/Oct/09 AltLd

Lead, Second, Lead

with Cocky
gnc760 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S

First pitch was pure class. A stunning natural line. Didn't do the top pitch as we didn't fancy waiting around, looks like great fun.

with Freshers
willson 05/Oct/09 Lead
with ben
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 15/Sep/09 AltLd

Led P2 and 3

chrisallan 15/Sep/09 AltLd dog
drewclimber 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with gordon
mlmatt 12/Sep/09 Lead
with Chris Prescott
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd
sam820 07/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

I led second pitch

with Lauren Newcomb
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
decs 18/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Sam
sgl 18/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with duncan
davesb 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
taw 06/Aug/09 AltLd
with Dave sb
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead dog
Glyn Davidson 21/Jun/09 AltLd dnf

I was really wet and greasy so decided to give it a miss after pitch 2.

with Dan
Karlos 20/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Pumped myself out trying to place gear on final pitch, and had to retreat. Started raining so no chance to try again. Looks great and will return.

with Mark B
Hidden 20/Jun/09 2nd
lukehodson 19/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

lead p1 + p3. really good, intimidating top pitch

Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead
buddha1369 12/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1 & 2

Dave Searle 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with sheryl
farmus21 07/May/09 AltLd

Lead the 2nd pitch. Couldn't finish last pitch, too windy, escaped off right H chimney

mattyork2 07/May/09 AltLd O/S

1st and 2nd pitch only. Too windy and scary for 3rd 'There is a real possibility that you may well get.....blown off!'

cmsg 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Llew didn't follow the last pitch. My stupid fault for protecting the traverse poorly; though I did offer to move the belay to mitigate this. Bemused as to why it receives only one star here. Classic route, three stars in the books, and three stars as voted for here. As for complaints of polish, there's a fair bit on the initial layback, but perfectly climbable with careful footwork. Last pitch hardest by far, but would never say unbalanced.

with Llewelyn Thomas
mike278 ?/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Alex
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Mike Goldthorp ?/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Did it in the dark with headtorches. 3rd pitch was ace, it was just pitch darkness below

with Sam Jones
colina 22/Oct/08 2nd O/S

did this climb with chris b whilst doing a mock student day at plas y brenin,cold day didnt do last pitch .fell off twice on layback first pitch

Carly 23/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with sophie
Hidden 23/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
thompson1000 23/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Did first and last pitches. First 2 pitches are little polished but when it comes to the last,seemed a lots better. Great final pitch but make sure you pack the Big Balls that day for the traverse out off the ledge.

OffshoreAndy 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Jade
dan gibson 20/Jul/08 Solo O/S
psychicbread 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S

didn't do final pitch, must return.

with Max
richardr ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead
SamStokes 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Awesome finishing as the Sun was setting!

gareth scott borthwick 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

i led 1st and 3rd pitches, phil led second

with phil
porridgefan 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Gaz: pitch 1 and 3 Me: pitch 2

with Gareth Borthwick
Clarky10 07/Jun/08 AltLd
with Andy Newby
overexposure 31/May/08 2nd O/S

on Brenin Course

Hidden 18/May/08 AltLd O/S
markbenton 18/May/08 AltLd
Theeni 11/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Sven Hassel
Hidden 02/May/08 AltLd O/S
RAK 02/May/08 Lead
with Mark ?
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Shaw Brown ??/2008 -
with David Jones
dj_brigham05 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Backed off last pitch due to large downpour

with Alex Pickard
ralphie 02/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Not as polished as most people seem to think. Try Simian at the same grade in the Avon Gorge!! Excellent route throughout with an exciting finale!

with Dave Horsington
Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead
Hidden 11/Oct/07 Lead
adamscottthomas 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Great first pitch and serious exposure on the crux traverse

ellentaylor 06/Oct/07 2nd dog

V polished. Nice first pitch, - clean shoes needed! Tricky second pitch. Couldn't get onto top pitch so dived off ledge and prussicked up. Shocking!

Keith Jones 15/Sep/07 2nd

1st pitch only

with David
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd β
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd β
chris sm 29/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
DannyK 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Did 1st pitch only, but it started real nice.

with Katie
thomasadixon 26/Aug/07 Lead dnf

Lead first three pitches clean, the first pitch is awesome. Will be back for the last pitch.

freelancer_85 25/Aug/07 2nd dnf
with Tom
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Allan Watson 31/Jul/07 AltLd dog

Fell from crack at top of the 3rd pitch.

with Steve Thomas
TonyB 07/Jul/07 AltLd
with Gwilym
featuresforfeet 28/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

First pitches spoilled by polish and escapability - all about the last pitch (or two moves of it) really.

SecretSquirrel 27/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Awesome leading that traverse on the top pitch.

RachelP 22/Jun/07 2nd
with Chris
peter myers ?/Jun/07 AltLd
with Tom Sylvester
Hidden 23/May/07 AltLd O/S
spum 08/May/07 Lead
with jen
Claire S-J ?/May/07 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/07 -
lighty 21/Apr/07 AltLd dnf

Hmmm.Was going to be my 1st HVS as it was HVS in my guide book also :-( The 1st pitch is iffy & polished but managed that,2nd was ok up to the arete with no gear placements(may have taken the wrong line on it?),top pitch looked at it & thought "not today lad" will deffo be back once i've actually climbed HVS 1st!!!

with Robby b
Hidden 18/Apr/07 AltLd rpt
IanJackson 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Big Ian
scorky345 ?/Apr/07 AltLd
tim20 ?/Apr/07 AltLd
flatcap 25/Mar/07 2nd dog

Great rock. Stunning route! There was only one pitch I wouldn't have tried leading -- step up on the ledge, traverse along razor-sharp handholds with the risk of an almighty swing back into a rock face. I made it across the hard bit cleanly, only to slip later. Damn.

with Jamie
Silum 24/Feb/07 Lead O/S

did this route in freezing cold and couldnt feel my hands at all on the traverse... hidden nut placements allow this to be fairly safe

with Ed
tumbling wizard ?/Jan/07 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
gregoldridge ??/2007 2nd
Luke Brooks ??/2007 -
bullybones ??/2007 Lead
with Nell
bobette 13/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with lead 2nd pitch
Hidden 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 -
Jim Slater ?/Sep/06 AltLd dnf

Wimped out of the final pitch - took the easier corner chimney of Direct Route instead.

with Russ Riseborough, Mirek
dodfoster 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with chris bulford
Hidden 16/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Lead
Cameron13 13/Jul/06 AltLd dnf

My first 15ft whipper!!! Lovely climb, extremely tough traverse on the final pitch though... be sure to protect at the base of the traverse with a No 9 Hex to avoid a factor 2 fall... we did and it probably saved myself a good long stay in hospital! Oh and be sure your belay buddy is very trustworthy... thanks Hazel you have the hands of a belay goddess! : )

SecretSquirrel 13/Jul/06 AltLd dnf

hmmm, HVS in our guide or we probably wouldn't have attempted it! 1st pitch lovely climbing. 2nd & 3rd - polished and quite scary (my lead). 4th - "airy traverse", bold and very inviting... opted for an easy finish up Direct Route after partner took a big fall reaching for the flake out left. My lead pitch when we go back next time :0)

Ian_gozer 01/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Tim & Instructor
Ed Booth 12/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Very cool climbing and a good one to do quickly as alpine training. A little polished unfortunately!

Adam Booth 11/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Nick Westby, Ed Booth
mikelaing ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Carolyn
cas54321 ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Mike
chris wyatt ?/May/06 Lead

Thought it was hard

Rampikino 08/Apr/06 AltLd

Abandoned after a few pitches due to hailstones.

with Mark Hills
Ben1983 ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
markju 22/Mar/06 2nd O/S

22/3/06 second it with PyB 15/4/07 lead the first pitch (layback)then carried on with Direct route

with PyB
ali_colquhoun ??/2006 -
with nils/rob/claire
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2006 -
Hidden 13/Nov/05 Lead O/S
shoulders 17/Jul/05 Lead
with dai
Hidden 18/Jun/05 AltLd
John Kettle ??/2005 Lead
Nathan Kemp ?/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead
Paul-Michael 25/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

lead 1st pitch only

kato'sdad 24/Apr/04 AltLd
RobSimmo 24/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
size9hex ??/2004 AltLd O/S

Didn't have a guidebook but liked the look of this line. Led the first pitch, but not sure after that. Think we must have veered onto Direct Route at some point before the top.

with Ian Whitney
Mark A Humphries 30/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Me 1st pitch 4c and 4th pitch 5a

Gman ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with James
Clucky 11/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
Urgles ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
with Mick B
rapidrich ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
Different Steve ??/2003 Lead

tricky gear to start the final pitch - take your time to place it.

with Pete Krug
michael burrows 13/Sep/02 AltLd
with helen swygart
Hidden 15/Aug/02 Lead dnf
unfit 21/Jul/02 AltLd
with Clwyd Mountaineering Club
jamiev 06/Oct/01 Lead O/S

I lead pitch 1, in slight rain. Very good. Then it started pouring, so abbed off.

Hidden 26/Aug/01 Lead O/S
John Roe 14/Jul/01 Lead

VS for the climbing I did. An overcast afternoon with the weather holding off. A great day out, enjoyed myself a lot. Avoided the top (crux) pitch due to time (lucky me)!

with Bruce Cregan
Hidden 12/May/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 AltLd
Mark Riley ?/May/01 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden 04/Nov/00 2nd
Hammy 08/Jun/00 AltLd
with Jim Evans
frost ?/Jun/00 Solo

back roped

Hidden 14/May/00 Lead O/S
Marq ?/Apr/00 AltLd O/S


with Will Wykes
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
Nige G 02/Apr/99 2nd
with PYB course
CMacD ??/1999 -
Sean Kelly ?/May/98 AltLd
with Keith Bolton
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
AdrianP ??/1998 Lead O/S
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/97 AltLd
iskra2000 20/Jul/97 AltLd

GH pitches 1 & 3. PH 2 & 4.

with Paul Harvey, Safina Leach
big 05/Apr/97 AltLd
five ?/Jul/96 AltLd dnf
with I, PW
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
sdht ??/1996 -
Didymus 22/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Tim Bateman 25/Jun/95 AltLd
babymoac 21/May/95 AltLd
with Grunt
Hidden 27/Mar/95 Lead
Bilbo 21/Jan/95 2nd
with Steve B and Simon W
Hidden 01/Jul/94 Lead
NeilGriffiths 23/Aug/93 Lead
with Paul Tucker
Hidden 20/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
adi bryant ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Kira
Hidden 18/Jun/92 2nd rpt
MoWalker3 04/Sep/91 AltLd
with Joe
Hidden ?/Apr/91 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/90 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/89 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jul/88 AltLd
mark-abz 30/Apr/88 AltLd
with Andy W
Ched ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Hidden 27/Oct/87 -
michael burrows 11/Oct/87 AltLd rpt
with dave lloyd
michael burrows 28/Sep/86 AltLd O/S
with scott
John HW ?/Apr/86 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??/1986 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/1986 -
Hidden ??/1986 -
Ken Taylor 25/May/85 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick, Richard Langthorp
Backinthegame ?/May/85 AltLd O/S

I lead the crux block pitch - foot slipped off at the top but held on and finished it clean!

with Stephen hughes
Hidden 10/Nov/84 2nd
nigehughes ?/Sep/84 AltLd

A crack, a wall, a slab, an arete and an airy traverse. Best HVS in Ogwen Valley.

with Malcolm Boater
mikej 22/Aug/83 Lead
with Tony Waite
Steve Crowe 18/Sep/82 Solo O/S
with LM
Bruce Kerr 16/Apr/79 AltLd
with Brian Carson
kjacks ??/1978 Lead

Second had a large pendulum at the start of last pitch - had to reverse the top groove to retrieve gear.

mikej 27/Jun/76 Lead dnf
with Tony Waite
Rob Davies 23/Sep/75 AltLd dnf

P3 (Central Block) seemed thin and necky, so we finished up the usual chimney

with Mike Papworth
Hidden 25/Aug/75 AltLd
Simon cook ?/Aug/75 AltLd
uphillnow ??/1974 Lead
with Al Bennett
Bolt Phobia 20/Apr/73 Lead
Andy Say ??/1973 Lead O/S
Tom V ??/1971 -
Dave Musgrove ??/1967 AltLd

1st 5 pitches?

with Bob Knapton
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 111
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 104
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set