Superdirect*** HVS 5a
[On the Milestone Buttress, 1 kb]

Rockfax Description
Fantastic slab moves on some of the best mountain rock in Wales.
1) 4c, 32m. Climb the polished ramp right to reach the overlap. Climb leftwards below this to gain the perfect crack in the rounded rib. Follow this to the ledge.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb a short wall to gain a slab, make a reach to gain a hold that leads onto the airy arete. Climb this to gain the large bay.
3) 5a, 22m. A difficult and committing pitch. Traverse left across flaky crimps to gain the niche and follow a crack to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: On the Milestone Buttress © allysingo
View all 11 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 499 logbooks, and on 41 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/15

Led P2
sambeaumont - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/15

Matthew Glenn - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/15 with Sam beaumont

Mackinclimb - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/15

Danny Crump - AltLd - 17/Sep/15 with Adam Mackintosh

Stew led P1, I led P2 which I thought was pretty stiff with gear very hard to come by. We looked at P3 and sacked it, escaping up the VDiff.
TomGB - AltLd dnf - 13/Sep/15 with Stewart Moody

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/15

1hr 57 mins car to car
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead - 05/Sep/15 with Harry Turnbull

Paul led P1 and P3, I led P2. I found P1 nice and straightforward, P2 was hard to read and protect, and P3 was obviously the star of the show. Paul f*&^ed it up somehow! I managed it without incident. My first HVS!
SenzuBean - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/15 with Paul C

JR P1, MC P2 and me P3
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/15 with Matt Chapleo, john ripley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/15

james1978 - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/15 with chris douglas

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 29/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/15

Pitch 2 felt quite tense, hard to read moves with hard to read fall potential. Previously 12 05 01 . A bit of a film here:
caradoc - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Matt H.

James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Gareth Hooson

Fragmod - Lead - 19/Jul/15

P1 superb, great climbing. P2 good, exposed on arete and was blowing a hoolie! Started P3 but thought better of it and finished up VD chimney. One to come back for!
Martin Davies - Lead dnf - 18/Jul/15 with Alice du Preez

Lead P2. Great route. Did a lot of shouting on the P3 traverse.
67hours - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/15 with Al Docherz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/15

Finally nailed the top pitch. The top crack is the crux. To protect the second on the top pitch, use two ropes, one for the traverse and one for the crack. Your gear on the traverse may still fall out when you take in from the belay though. Spoiler alert: the "hand traverse" isn't - use a hidden pocket/hold on the arete to get your feet onto it and walk across.
Pete_Frost - AltLd rpt - 10/Jul/15 with Climbing Joe from Anglesey

Climbed with Owen, with me leading pitches 1 and 3. Awesome climbing and great exposure on pitch 3. Wind added a little extra spice
JonnySchofield - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/15

Jeannie led pitch 1, I led pitch 2. Bailed onto direct route instead of doing pitch 3 as it started raining. First 2 pitches were brilliant, some of the best climbing in North Wales that I've done so far, pitch 3 takes an incredibly aesthetic line, and I will definatley be back to do it, on a dry, less muggy day!
Lucylou19 - AltLd dnf - 01/Jul/15 with Jeannie Sherwood

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/Jul/15

Ali D - AltLd - Jul/15

Lead P2&3. Quick evening climb escalated into a bit of a longer affair as second didn't fancy the swing seconding P3.
kyaizawa - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/15 with Emma Reynolds

Lead P1, got scared seconding P2 (was a bit short, needed to step down instead of trying to reach). Ky lead P3 after Rob, who left some gear. Rob's gear all fell out, leaving the pitch unprotected with a swing on very stretchy ropes! Ky protected it with another rope but I couldn't get the sequence right; pocket on the right hand face too high up, and when high foot was used the left hand slipped off the sloper. Bailed and scrambled up the side.
Emma Reynolds - AltLd dnf - 08/Jun/15 with Ky Aizawa

all pitches
98%monkey - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Al Dibben

Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Phil Mitchel

esther - Lead - Jun/15

Lead pitch 1, seconded pitch 2 with a rucksack - interesting at points! We backed off pitch three because it was 8 pm, starting to rain, we were shivering uncontrollably and I didn't fancy committing to the start of the last pitch in those conditions.
Martin Brierley - AltLd dnf - 29/May/15 with Andrew Edwards

P1 & 3 (crux). Committing to the traverse on P3 was pretty scary. Steep crack right at the top was probably the actual crux though.
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - 27/May/15 with Nick Lyons

dkd - 27/May/15

Lead the top 3 pitches (as 2)
Dan Vaj - AltLd O/S - 25/May/15 with Khalid

Led P1
khalidq - AltLd rpt - 25/May/15 with Dan Vajzovic

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/15

guy757 - 19/May/15

mzk - 16/May/15

30mph winds!
Amazoniangirl - 2nd - 16/May/15 with Andrei Mandzuk

Sardien - AltLd rpt - 14/May/15 with Johnny

Awinter - 2nd - 11/May/15 with Liam Evans

Bailed out of the crux top pitch due to high winds and finished an easier way.
rushy11111918 - AltLd - 11/May/15 with Ceire Booth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/15

Nice route but very polished. I led last pitch.
Rafal Malczyk - AltLd O/S - 04/May/15 with Ian Pegg, Rich Apthorp

Took a while to arrange gear and head on p3
clams - Lead - May/15 with Catherine

CatMc - 2nd dog - May/15 with clams

Slipped on the crux, great climb
colinthomson5 - Lead dog - 26/Apr/15 with Andrew Patten

Last pitch only, one of the shortest and best pitches I've ever done. Don't look down.
JimboWizbo - Lead - 18/Apr/15 with Steve S

me p1 michael 2 and 3. pitch 2 really nice climbing and would have felt bold on lead but your rocking onto good footholds. p3 scary at first and i failed to commit so michael cruised it in 6 mins... crimps are very positive but sorting your feet our is hard unless you just cut loose like some! solid 5a
jmills94 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/15 with michael, chris

P2 & P2 good moves throughout, polished to glass on the first move of P1, exposed traverse on P3 is rewarded with a brilliant finishing crack. A great introduction to Welsh rock thanks to Joe!!
Mike505 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/15 with Chris, jmills94

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/15

Led 1st and 3rd
DavidEvans - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/15 with Ste Brock

Hidden - 2015

khalidq - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Michael Royals

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14

What a cracking climb literally.
waydan - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/14 with El Swiftos

Seconded as Mock Student as part of Rob's MIA training.
StevieJ - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/14 with lithos

P1 only, up and down in 40 mins
lithos - Lead - 23/Sep/14 with steve j

Stopsy - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/14 with Bede

I led p1+3 great with an unusual amount of stuck gear. Tough p3
adamre12 - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/14 with Dan Qureshi

Qureshi - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/14

Rosie Henstock - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Tom Green

Mark D - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Tommy B

TGreen - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Rosie Henstock

Great climbing, strange amount of polish on the first flake when compared to the rest of the route. Done in the twilight, stuck wire meant it was dark by the time we got to the ledge below the final pitch, so finished up the chimney of the direct. Last pitch looks wild and will be back for it at some point for sure!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Claire Holland

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/14

beakerburgess - AltLd - 24/Aug/14 with James Weale

jon clayton - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Aug/14

Led P1. Couldnt commit to final pitch so continued up the polish of direct route. 4 pieces of stuck gear in first pitch made it feel almost like a sport route!
Matt Harmon - AltLd dnf - 09/Aug/14 with Sam Ash

Lead P2. Matt didn't fancy last pitch, so finished up the chimney
Sam Ash - AltLd dnf - 09/Aug/14 with Matt the Fresher

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14

Led P2, ace airy arete! Well done on P3 Calum, hard! Best route of the holiday?
Dawn_K_B - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Calum Harvey

svdie - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14

kenneM - Lead - 27/Jul/14 with Paul Elliott

rosieposey14 - 26/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14

JamesLloyd - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14

Lead first pitch; Spencer did second- very bold with little gear; didn't fancy third in dampish conditions so lead polished chimney escape!!
buxtoncoffeelover - AltLd - 20/Jul/14 with Spenser

Nik led P1, I led P2. Weather threatened/ Nik decided I deserved some punishment with a good old fashioned chimney so we finished up the chimney on direct route. P2 felt pretty run out but had some good climbing on it.
spenser - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Nik

NickJH - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/14 with P Stridgen

fizzychewitt - AltLd - 15/Jul/14 with Jayne

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/14

I led p2 - found quite exciting despite having led it before. Pointed Hil at sandbag p3...
Alison Cairns - AltLd - 01/Jul/14 with hilary

Shane Willis - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

mr mills - AltLd rpt - 18/Jun/14 with Roger

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/14

Fantastic final pitch, and the rest is pretty ace as well.
UncleMephisto - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Glenn Manifold

Lead P2 up to bold arete, got scared, very bold. rafe took over.
Double Knee Bar - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Rafe

Lead pitches 1+4
apw - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Chris Hindley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

dicky79 - AltLd O/S - 18/May/14 with James D

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14

Did not do last pitch due to cold. Messed up ropes a bit
Cake - AltLd dnf - 17/May/14 with Matt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Tom Hansford

chancer - AltLd dnf - 03/May/14 with Iain Gray

oodie72 - AltLd dnf - 03/May/14 with Alex Pond

Kazza91 - May/14

rbharries - AltLd - 28/Apr/14 with Greg Cain

JackM92 - 2nd - 22/Apr/14

Good rock. Would do this again, excellent climbing.
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Dan Jones

Still as good a route as ever! Still not really getting polished except for initial crack on first pitch. Second pitch good quality pleasant climbing. Top pitch still a scary affair that I have never lead! - exciting position, dubious gear that's difficult to place and hollow holds! Overall a great route!
Danjones - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/14 with Dan Hale

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Apr/14

Only got to climb first pitch before getting rained off. It looked superb, can't wait to come back and finish it.
jsmcfarland - AltLd dnf - 12/Apr/14 with Oli Hawk

guy757 - 11/Apr/14

Led 1st, very windy and cold.
steven_daniels99 - AltLd β - 04/Apr/14

P1, P3. P2 is bold - don't fall off the arete !
lithos - AltLd - 30/Mar/14 with paul s

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14

foostu4 - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Mar/14

First pitch only. Really god pitch though!
Olli-C - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with chi

Hidden - Solo - 16/Feb/14

With an MR chopper circling overhead.
Adam_42 - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Andrew Wright, Pete Bayliss

Andrew Wright - 2nd - 16/Feb/14 with Adam B

Hidden - 2014

Si - 2014

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Alfie Conn - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

waynekinrade - Lead - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Ssebo Banange - AltLd - Dec/13

Duncan Turner - Lead - 12/Oct/13

Duncan Turner - Lead - 11/Oct/13

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Oct/13

henry.jeffreys - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/13 with Mauricio Santos

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

Done in 3 pitches, I lead 2nd and 3rd. Lovely route in the afternoon sunshine.
WillCass - Lead - 04/Sep/13 with Monika

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13

Couldn't work out last pitch
Andre Clarke - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/13 with jamster

Done before, just P1 with client this time.
jezb1 - Lead - 26/Aug/13

Gareth T - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Tim Popplestone

First 2 pitches only
Matt1234 - AltLd dnf - 09/Aug/13 with Col

Chickened out the last pitch😡
Col Kingshott - AltLd - 09/Aug/13 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/13

I lead first pitch, Dan second pitch, and Niels the third :)
alicee - AltLd - 08/Aug/13 with Niels Ernst-Williams, Daniel Whitlum

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/13

carl_123 - AltLd - 28/Jul/13

1pitch, straight in on polished footholds on the boomerang nice unsettling start. Top pitch fine, took some time to protect it, the final crack required some thinking about.
herman0055 - AltLd - 24/Jul/13 with Scott's simon

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/13

Class route, well protected 1st pitch...less so after. Committment needed on the last pitch!
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Ash Sleight

Great route!
ashsleight - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Glen bloomer

A really good traverse on final pitch that requires commitment.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/13 with davenev

P3 too tough (or too scary) for me to get on - escaped up the evil polished chimney in the corner
davenev - 2nd dnf - 19/Jul/13 with luke

Classic trad route despite the polish.
demarcation86 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Paul

pryan300 - AltLd dog - 13/Jul/13 with T-Bone

ian caton - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with PAul cc

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13

Alex Eperon - 2nd - 07/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 07/Jul/13

led p1 and p3, in situ wire on pitch 1 made life easier, cold fingers on p3 made life harder! such a good route
michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 26/Jun/13 with mike doyle

Led all pitched. I found the 2nd pitch to be not far off HVS 4c in it's own right...tricky moves in an airy position with only average gear a reasonable way below you - Makes for an exciting warm up before the glorious crux pitch.
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Natasha Oughton

Fluffed the very top of the top pitch somehow , got it easily second time round, first lead fall!
sheelba - Lead - 19/Jun/13

Nice climb, and no falls, had a moment on the traverse but got there in the end. Excellent climb, best so far
Craigyboy13 - 2nd - 19/Jun/13

Failed on the last pitch!!
John Roe - AltLd dnf - 09/Jun/13 with Iain (Jocky) Marr

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/13

roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 04/Jun/13 with will nicolls

amazing climbing all the way with a particularly good top pitch :) lead pitch 2
JamesWilliams - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with jamesA

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Jun/13

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with Sophie Heron

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13 with brmc members

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/13

stephenarnold - 2nd O/S - 02/May/13

Will Sheaff - 2nd dnf - 23/Apr/13 with Nick R

Would have been ace when it was new, very polished now!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Bubbles

Sam Melville - 2013

NR led half of pitch two.
Neil D - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Nadeem Rahim

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Sep/12

1st and 3rd. Fantastic, last pitch was quite something in the wind!
Dafydd Llywelyn - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/12

Lead all pitches. Fantastic climbing all the way up, with an amazing top pitch. Found gear a bit fiddly on second pitch so just ended running it out a bit. Can get gear in to protect the traverse on the top pitch before starting it. Bron couldn't climb the top pitch in the wet so I got lowered down to get the gear back and then climbed it in the wet too. Got the ropes stuck after abseiling off so had to prussic back up to release them. Epic day!
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Bron Edwards

james chesmer - AltLd O/S - Sep/12 with Dafydd Llywelyn

BeckyBrown1989 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Will Oates

awesome climb though the top pitch is def harder than 5a! had to climb it twice as my second couldn't get up it and he's seconded 5c before!
highclimber - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/Aug/12

Lead 1st and last pitch
SallyMay - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12

Lloyders - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Paddy

just plain fun
air - Aug/12 with Simon

Dunx - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Joe M

First 2 pitches only VS4c
richardlong78 - Lead - 21/Jun/12 with Sophie Foxen

ali macphee - 2nd - 19/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/12

Ld p2 and top pitch. Really good route. 2 really good pitches leading to the great little traverse pitch.
jezb1 - AltLd - 17/May/12

Hidden - 17/May/12

Hard, exposed last pitch. Awesome!
Stuart_Burbidge - Lead O/S - 16/May/12 with James Townley

Amazing first two pitches, third pitch was interesting!!
j.townley - 2nd O/S - 16/May/12 with Stuart_Burbidge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12

lead the middle pitch, very entertaining
HAJ Francis - AltLd O/S - Apr/12 with bed ay

Merlin Fincken - 2nd dog - Apr/12

Fantastic Route
Daymo - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with DJ

deejmonkey - AltLd - 25/Mar/12 with Damian

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

John led helen followed then me, too cold after p1 Bailed out. (windy 50-60mph)
Curly Rich - 2nd dnf - 27/Nov/11 with GMC JohnP

Lead first 2 pitches, Lovely climbing, second pitch a beaut.
Yong_Welsh - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Sean

Consistently interesting climbing. Bypassed the crux by going for a long dangle. last pitch a bit more than 5a methinks.
Tanya Savage - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with Neil Pacey

Fantastic route, one the best HVS's I've led. Found the flake traverse hard for 5a, overall a very memorable climb, classic!
Neil Pacey - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Tanya Savage

Nice climb on clean rock, great value VS on first two pitches. First two pitched only, led 2nd, Bottled 4a pitch after cruising the 4c. Probably qualified for the Club faffing award which afterall was invented by my partner. Yes I got it
PaulWatson - AltLd - 01/Oct/11 with Colin

A quick route after the kit presentations and headbutting the fire alarm panel at Plas y Brenin :)
Timo Austino - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Annie

Led pitch 1. Ollie led pitch 2 and 3. Came off on pitch 1.
Darrell Read - AltLd - 25/Sep/11 with Oliver Mentz

Attempted day before, but didnt commit to the crux due to very high winds. Guess it should be ground up really
Ollie B - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/11

Outstanding route - well worth the grade. Pitch 3 is excellent.
Rampikino - Lead - 04/Sep/11 with Cat

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Aug/11

led pitch 2
sian88 - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 05/Aug/11 with sian

lead pitch two, really nice, then solod the final pitch afterwards. amazing, but not one i would put on my regular solo list.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Phill, Steve

Steeve - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/11

chris ebbutt - AltLd - 10/Jul/11 with Johnathon

led 2nd and last pitch. mint climb
Bill Lawrence - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with andy lawrence

Joe lead final pitch after I backed off initial move on lead,
Simon Cahill - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Joe Bagley

Evening dash from Manchester, through showers on A55 to a glorious sun drenched butress. I did P1&3, both superb, position for the moves on P3 are just fabulous.
spacey - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with paul evans

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

Led 1st, most of 2nd (partner didn't feel comfortable on crux) and 3rd pitches. Thought second pitch a lot harder than third, although it was quite damp...
richardcreagh - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

Led P2 (3 pitches).
StevieG_7 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Tom Moores

Really pleasant climbing, lead pitch 2...nice
chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Owain

P1 + P3
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Chris

Lead P1 and P3. Very spicy on P3! Made a bit of a meal leaving the crack on P3. Really ace climb though!!!
Lxaddison - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Paul Addison

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/May/11

Me P1 & P3, Steve P2. Loved all three pitches, best climb of weekend. Went quite low half way along traverse to avoid the delicate teeter, no foot holds that way, but big(ish) hand holds.
hellboundblr - AltLd - 29/Apr/11 with Steve P

stevepotter - AltLd - 29/Apr/11 with Bryan

p1 and 2.. didnt fancy soloing the 3rd
wolf.leeb - Solo rpt - 25/Apr/11

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with dan ely

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with tim

Snatched inbetween showers. Rewarded for our persistence with a rare double rainbow over Llyn Ogwen. Led Ps 1,3.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Dale

Microwired22 - 15/Apr/11

Ace route nice and exposed on top pitch. I got the second pitch which is very good went slightly off route had to do a heel hook on a 4c pitch hahaha fun. Andy got crux pitch it kept threatening with rain was going to take some photos but andy climbed it so fast didn't get any and didn't put any gear in, made him come back and put a piece in as I was in for a big swing if it had rained. Rain held off luckly the supposed top rope was caught under the gear so no top rope but it did'nt make any difference. super fri affternoon
Dale - AltLd O/S - Apr/11 with Andy

Led P2. Great positions. Awesome exposure on top pitch
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Ruth

Mental position and moves for the last pitch. I was all for avoiding it but Mike went for it despite my quivering. Glad he did. Awesome. The first two pitches aren't bad either.
maresia - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mike Kann

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch. first two pitches are so plesant, the third is a little ballsy...
thetradlad - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Gareth Clendinning

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

Julian Wedd - 2nd - 2011 with A. Brierley

Hidden - 2011

paul79 - AltLd - 2011

Dodged the top pitch (the meat of the climb?) A bit tricky with cold hands and a rucksack - must go back for it.
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 24/Oct/10 with Nye Kemball, Nic Dill

TRFrost - 2nd dnf - 10/Oct/10 with L. Nedevska

matt.woodfield - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10

Fantastic climb. Good climbing on all 3 pitches so something nice for each of us to lead :-) Lead P3, took a few gos before I dared to leap for the juggy flake but got it. Moved out rigth on top 2 moves rather than tussling up the crag all the way
Sardien - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Rhodri Morgan, Simon Moore

J Menlove Edwards centenary tribute didn't go well. RD new rock shoes didn't help and so started up (non-super) direct to right. Began to rain as Martin was leading P2. Wet rock and slippery shoes, meant RD came off when seconding P2. Did not attempt the Menlove 5a P3.
rd20 - AltLd dnf - 18/Sep/10 with Martin

Lead 2nd pitch, but went slightly off route towards the end. Decided not to attempt P3 because of rain.
smolders - AltLd dnf - 18/Sep/10 with Robert D

Dan Geh - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Thomas Geh

mattshort - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Charlie Cooper, Alan Murray

lovely 1st pitch - footholds are great if it's dry. 2nd is exposed and 3rd is great - not as scary as it looks because you can get gear in from the ledge :) great route tho - quality and quantity
Alan100 - AltLd - 15/Aug/10

amthalmann - AltLd - 01/Aug/10

jgrigson - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Jerry led P1, I struggled to remove his gear and got cross. This ruined what must be a lovely pitch. I led P2 in the rain, even so it felt soft for 4c. Rain continued so we abbed off before the crux P3. To be continued....
Richard Gilbert - AltLd dnf - 31/Jul/10 with Jerry Ostrowski

p1 again, remainder on Direct.
Keith Jones - AltLd - 21/Jul/10 with Chris

P1 of superdirect. finished up direct
christoph owen - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/10 with Keith jones

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10

Wimped out of the final pitch, felt too weak for it. - AltLd dnf - 12/Jul/10 with jamesca

david morse - AltLd - 28/Jun/10 with lole

Amazing and exposed final pitch, took a while to commit to the traverse! finished up the jamming crack.
catblack - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Andy Barker

Led a few years ago but can't remember the date. The final pitch is still great fun.
Andrew Barker - 2nd rpt - 22/Jun/10 with Cat Black

mr mills - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/10 with Kairen

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10

Backed off lead on final pitch. Will led it.
Jim Slater - AltLd rpt - 12/Jun/10 with Will Jones

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10

Leo had top Pitch.
edpd1b - AltLd - Jun/10 with Leo Scheltinga

Alison2 - 2nd - Jun/10 with matthew154

sthame - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with Ben Reinch

awsome route, especially the final pitch
Bennykr - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Sam Thame

Led P1 & 3. Found the glossy initial layback harder than the crux pitch! Great climbing, but quite chilly in the wind.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Andy

Led P1 and P3, Really nice route despite the polished holds at the start.
Noodles - AltLd O/S - 21/May/10 with Justin Lawley

mynyddresident - AltLd - 19/May/10 with chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/May/10

3rd Pitch lead
ilikemonkys - AltLd O/S - 16/May/10 with Greg, Graham

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/10

wandered onto pitch 3 and 4 on superdirect .need to trust my technique more.good day good company
colina - AltLd - 11/May/10 with andy trek

Chris M - Lead - 03/May/10 with Tommy B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/10

Sgt. Vest - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/10 with pete topham

Led pitches 1 & 3. Great route, with an absorbing traverse on pitch 3.
Ken Applegate - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Hannah Evans

al99 - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Luke Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

31770 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

sionjosh - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

set off at midnight. night time climbing is the new daytime climbing. led P1 + P3.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/09 with Ben alsford

adam coxsell - AltLd O/S - 19/Oct/09 with laurence

Lead, Second, Lead
Laurence Everitt - AltLd - 18/Oct/09 with Cocky

First pitch was pure class. A stunning natural line. Didn't do the top pitch as we didn't fancy waiting around, looks like great fun.
Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Freshers

willson - Lead - 05/Oct/09 with ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/09

Led P2 and 3
theotherpetehill - AltLd - 15/Sep/09

chrisallan - AltLd dog - 15/Sep/09

drewclimber - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with gordon

mlmatt - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with Chris Prescott

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/09

I led second pitch
sam820 - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Lauren Newcomb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

decs - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Sam

sgl - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with duncan

davesb - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Tom Wilson

taw - AltLd - 06/Aug/09 with Dave sb

Hidden - Lead dog - Jul/09

I was really wet and greasy so decided to give it a miss after pitch 2.
Glyn Davidson - AltLd dnf - 21/Jun/09 with Dan

Pumped myself out trying to place gear on final pitch, and had to retreat. Started raining so no chance to try again. Looks great and will return.
Karlos - Lead dnf - 20/Jun/09 with Mark B

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/09

lead p1 + p3. really good, intimidating top pitch
lukehodson - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Sam Howell

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jun/09

lead pitch 1 & 2
buddha1369 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/09 with Christian B (OB)

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09 with sheryl

Lead the 2nd pitch. Couldn't finish last pitch, too windy, escaped off right H chimney
farmus21 - AltLd - 07/May/09 with Matt Maynard

1st and 2nd pitch only. Too windy and scary for 3rd 'There is a real possibility that you may well get.....blown off!'
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 07/May/09 with James Gray

Led pitches 1 and 3. Llew didn't follow the last pitch. My stupid fault for protecting the traverse poorly; though I did offer to move the belay to mitigate this. Bemused as to why it receives only one star here. Classic route, three stars in the books, and three stars as voted for here. As for complaints of polish, there's a fair bit on the initial layback, but perfectly climbable with careful footwork. Last pitch hardest by far, but would never say unbalanced.
cmsg - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Llewelyn Thomas

mike278 - AltLd O/S - Apr/09 with Alex

paulh1967 - 2009

Did it in the dark with headtorches. 3rd pitch was ace, it was just pitch darkness below
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - Dec/08 with Sam Jones

did this climb with chris b whilst doing a mock student day at plas y brenin,cold day didnt do last pitch .fell off twice on layback first pitch
colina - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/08

Carly - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/08 with sophie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/08

thompson1000 - Lead - 23/Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/08

Did first and last pitches. First 2 pitches are little polished but when it comes to the last,seemed a lots better. Great final pitch but make sure you pack the Big Balls that day for the traverse out off the ledge.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Steve Joynson

OffshoreAndy - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Jade

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 20/Jul/08

didn't do final pitch, must return.
psychicbread - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Max

richardr - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/08

Awesome finishing as the Sun was setting!
SamStokes - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Sam Clarke

i led 1st and 3rd pitches, phil led second
gareth scott borthwick - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with phil

Gaz: pitch 1 and 3 Me: pitch 2
porridgefan - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Gareth Borthwick

Clarky10 - AltLd - 07/Jun/08 with Andy Newby

on Brenin Course
overexposure - 2nd O/S - 31/May/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/May/08

markbenton - AltLd - 18/May/08 with ggawthrope

Theeni - AltLd O/S - 11/May/08 with Sven Hassel

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/08

RAK - Lead - 02/May/08 with Mark ?

Hidden - AltLd - May/08

Matt Vigg - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Shaw Brown - 2008 with David Jones

Backed off last pitch due to large downpour
dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/07 with Alex Pickard

Not as polished as most people seem to think. Try Simian at the same grade in the Avon Gorge!! Excellent route throughout with an exciting finale!
ralphie - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/07 with Dave Horsington

Hidden - Lead - Nov/07

Hidden - Lead - 11/Oct/07

Great first pitch and serious exposure on the crux traverse
adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with Ellen Taylor

V polished. Nice first pitch, - clean shoes needed! Tricky second pitch. Couldn't get onto top pitch so dived off ledge and prussicked up. Shocking!
ellentaylor - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/07 with Adam Thomas

1st pitch only
Keith Jones - 2nd - 15/Sep/07 with David

Hidden - 2nd β - Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd β - Sep/07

chris sm - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/07 with Pippa Froggatt

Did 1st pitch only, but it started real nice.
DannyK - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/07 with Katie

Lead first three pitches clean, the first pitch is awesome. Will be back for the last pitch.
thomasadixon - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/07 with freelancer_85

freelancer_85 - 2nd dnf - 25/Aug/07 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/07

Fell from crack at top of the 3rd pitch.
toasted - AltLd dog - 31/Jul/07 with Steve Thomas

TonyB - AltLd - 07/Jul/07 with Gwilym

First pitches spoilled by polish and escapability - all about the last pitch (or two moves of it) really.
featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/07 with SecretSquirrel

Awesome leading that traverse on the top pitch.
SecretSquirrel - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/07 with featuresforfeet

RachelP - 2nd - 22/Jun/07 with Chris

peter myers - AltLd - Jun/07 with Tom Sylvester

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/07

spum - Lead - 08/May/07 with jen

Claire S-J - 2nd - May/07

Hidden - 29/Apr/07

Hmmm.Was going to be my 1st HVS as it was HVS in my guide book also :-( The 1st pitch is iffy & polished but managed that,2nd was ok up to the arete with no gear placements(may have taken the wrong line on it?),top pitch looked at it & thought "not today lad" will deffo be back once i've actually climbed HVS 1st!!!
lighty - AltLd dnf - 21/Apr/07 with Robby b

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/07

IanJackson - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Big Ian

scorky345 - AltLd - Apr/07 with Tim Oates

tim20 - AltLd - Apr/07 with sam corcoran

Great rock. Stunning route! There was only one pitch I wouldn't have tried leading -- step up on the ledge, traverse along razor-sharp handholds with the risk of an almighty swing back into a rock face. I made it across the hard bit cleanly, only to slip later. Damn.
flatcap - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/07 with Jamie

did this route in freezing cold and couldnt feel my hands at all on the traverse... hidden nut placements allow this to be fairly safe
Silum - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/07 with Ed

tumbling wizard - Lead - Jan/07

Hidden - 2007

gregoldridge - 2nd - 2007

Luke Brooks - 2007

bullybones - Lead - 2007 with Nell

bobette - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/06 with lead 2nd pitch

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06

Hidden - Sep/06

Wimped out of the final pitch - took the easier corner chimney of Direct Route instead.
Jim Slater - AltLd dnf - Sep/06 with Russ Riseborough, Mirek

dodfoster - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06 with chris bulford

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jul/06

My first 15ft whipper!!! Lovely climb, extremely tough traverse on the final pitch though... be sure to protect at the base of the traverse with a No 9 Hex to avoid a factor 2 fall... we did and it probably saved myself a good long stay in hospital! Oh and be sure your belay buddy is very trustworthy... thanks Hazel you have the hands of a belay goddess! : )
Cameron13 - AltLd dnf - 13/Jul/06 with SecretSquirrel

hmmm, HVS in our guide or we probably wouldn't have attempted it! 1st pitch lovely climbing. 2nd & 3rd - polished and quite scary (my lead). 4th - "airy traverse", bold and very inviting... opted for an easy finish up Direct Route after partner took a big fall reaching for the flake out left. My lead pitch when we go back next time :0)
SecretSquirrel - AltLd dnf - 13/Jul/06 with Cameron13

Ian_gozer - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/06 with Tim & Instructor

Very cool climbing and a good one to do quickly as alpine training. A little polished unfortunately!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/06

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Nick Westby, Ed Booth

mikelaing - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Carolyn

cas54321 - 2nd - Jun/06 with Mike

Thought it was hard
chris wyatt - Lead - May/06

Abandoned after a few pitches due to hailstones.
Rampikino - AltLd - 08/Apr/06 with Mark Hills

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - Apr/06

22/3/06 second it with PyB 15/4/07 lead the first pitch (layback)then carried on with Direct route
markju - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/06 with PyB

ali_colquhoun - 2006 with nils/rob/claire

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

keith leonard - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/05

shoulders - Lead - 17/Jul/05 with dai

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/05

John Kettle - Lead - 2005

Nathan Kemp - Lead - Aug/04

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/04

Hidden - Lead - May/04

lead 1st pitch only
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/04 with Diccon Proctor

kato'sdad - AltLd - 24/Apr/04 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/04 with Jon Berry

Hidden - 2004

Didn't have a guidebook but liked the look of this line. Led the first pitch, but not sure after that. Think we must have veered onto Direct Route at some point before the top.
size9hex - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Ian Whitney

Me 1st pitch 4c and 4th pitch 5a
Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/03

Gman - Lead O/S - Jun/03 with James

Clucky - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/03 with Rich Ayles

Urgles - AltLd O/S - Apr/03 with Mick B

rapidrich - AltLd O/S - Apr/03 with Andy McCluskey

tricky gear to start the final pitch - take your time to place it.
Different Steve - Lead - 2003 with Pete Krug

michael burrows - AltLd - 13/Sep/02 with helen swygart

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/02

unfit - AltLd - 21/Jul/02 with Clwyd Mountaineering Club

I lead pitch 1, in slight rain. Very good. Then it started pouring, so abbed off.
jamiev - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/01

VS for the climbing I did. An overcast afternoon with the weather holding off. A great day out, enjoyed myself a lot. Avoided the top (crux) pitch due to time (lucky me)!
John Roe - Lead - 14/Jul/01 with Bruce Cregan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/01

Mark Riley - AltLd - May/01 with Stuart Greenall

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Nov/00

Hammy - AltLd - 08/Jun/00 with Jim Evans

back roped
frost - Solo - Jun/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/00

Marq - AltLd O/S - Apr/00 with Will Wykes

Hidden - 2000

Stone Muppet - 2000

Nige G - 2nd - 02/Apr/99 with PYB course

CMacD - 1999

Sean Kelly - AltLd - May/98 with Keith Bolton

Hidden - AltLd - May/98

AdrianP - Lead O/S - 1998

zero six - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Sep/97

GH pitches 1 & 3. PH 2 & 4.
iskra2000 - AltLd - 20/Jul/97 with Paul Harvey, Safina Leach

big - AltLd - 05/Apr/97

five - AltLd dnf - Jul/96 with I, PW

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1996

sdht - 1996

Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/95 with Paul

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 25/Jun/95

babymoac - AltLd - 21/May/95 with Grunt

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/95

Bilbo - 2nd - 21/Jan/95 with Steve B and Simon W

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/94

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 23/Aug/93 with Paul Tucker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/93

adi bryant - Lead O/S - Apr/93 with Kira

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Jun/92

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 04/Sep/91 with Joe

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/91

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/90

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Mar/89

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jul/88

mark-abz - AltLd - 30/Apr/88 with Andy W

Ched - Lead O/S - 1988 with Glyn

Hidden - 27/Oct/87

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 11/Oct/87 with dave lloyd

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/86 with scott

John HW - Lead - Apr/86

Hidden - 1986

Hidden - 1986

Hidden - 1986

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 25/May/85 with Andy Chadwick, Richard Langthorp

I lead the crux block pitch - foot slipped off at the top but held on and finished it clean!
Backinthegame - AltLd O/S - May/85 with Stephen hughes

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Nov/84

A crack, a wall, a slab, an arete and an airy traverse. Best HVS in Ogwen Valley.
nigehughes - AltLd - Sep/84 with Malcolm Boater

mikej - Lead - 22/Aug/83 with Tony Waite

Steve Crowe - Solo O/S - 18/Sep/82 with LM

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 16/Apr/79 with Brian Carson

mikej - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/76 with Tony Waite

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/75

Simon cook - AltLd - Aug/75

uphillnow - Lead - 1974 with Al Bennett

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 20/Apr/73

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1973

Tom V - 1971

1st 5 pitches?
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 1967 with Bob Knapton

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Total votes cast 247
hard E11 of 108
E10 of 108
easy E15 of 108
hard HVS16 of 108
HVS80 of 108
easy HVS5 of 108
hard VS1 of 108
VS0 of 108
easy VS0 of 108
hard 5b1 of 38
5b1 of 38
easy 5b3 of 38
hard 5a20 of 38
5a13 of 38
easy 5a0 of 38
hard 4c0 of 38
4c0 of 38
easy 4c0 of 38
3 Stars80 of 101
2 Stars17 of 101
1 Star4 of 101
0 Stars0 of 101
Bag of .....0 of 101
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat