UKC

35m. The ever-widening crack is the line of the crag. A short section of finger crack at the start of the route is the technical crux of the route. Above this, climb a long crack that goes from hands to off width before widening into a squeeze chimney. The entry moves into this chimney are the actual crux for many, and for others, the chimney itself can prove difficult at 5.9.

A #4 BD Camalot or equivalent protects the entry moves into the chimney and it's possible to place a #5 and #6 in the chimney itself, although you will have to leave these behind eventually. In practice it would be difficult to actually fall out of the chimney but failing to make meaningful upward progress is less difficult.

Descent by abseil from the two-bolt anchor at the top of the chimeny (70m rope required).

Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost 1965.

Ticklists

Yosemite Little Walls For Mortals

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Voting
High 5.10c
Mid 5.10c
Low 5.10c
High 5.10b
Mid 5.10b
Low 5.10b
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Repeated
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ciebola

Grade: 5.10b ***
(Medlicott Dome)

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