100m, 3 pitches.
Another excellent pitch follows a crack in a right-facing corner. Begin by climbing vegetated ledges to the base of the corner. A short steep section of fingers / off-fingers (crux) leads to a sustained section of thin hands jamming which eventually widens and leads to a rest. From here a very steep section of perfect hands is followed by a less steep, but significantly wider section of crack to a two-bolt anchor. Without good off-width technique this upper crack can feel more difficult than its 5.10 grade. Happily it can be well protected with cams up to #4 BD Camalot.
Jim Donini, Rab Carrington and Mark Chapman 1972.
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Route of Interest
West Face
Grade: 5.11b ***
(El Capitan)