Rockfax Description
Fairly bold but enjoyable climbing up the curving flakeline on the left-hand side of the bald slab left of Urizen's corner. Start below the left side of a flat pillar of rock with a very small wedged block in it at 7m.
Climb up the left side of the pillar to the small wedged block and a good ledge just above. Traverse left along a break, then move up to a narrow ramp-line. Follow this up right as it steepens to form a corner, peg, and continue up the left curving overlap to join the finish of Twinkletoes. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Cheese Monkey 25/Sep Lead O/S

A bit spicy but entertaining

with Ian M
Andy Moles 31/Jul 2nd
with Jon de Leyser
JonmapDL 31/Jul Lead O/S

Very cool route. E1: sustained 5a climbing on small feet for first 30m, with some rickety, small gear before run-outs.

Hidden ?/Jul Lead
Hidden 30/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May TR rpt
kingholmesy ??/2015 2nd O/S
with Colin
markfromstoke 31/Aug/14 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mark
Pippa 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mountain_jay 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Alex Mason 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Very bold and not convinced gear in the undercut flake would hold a fall. Not to be underestimated.

with Jemma Powell
jon_gill1 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
ripper 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

climbed this following a swim in the sea, in my boxers, so had to take them off. So I led undercracker with no undercrackers. nice route, enjoyed it.

with jon gill
dprctr 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Climbed this quite quickly. Consistently interesting.

rd20 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with David P
ferdia 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Burton
Mr Tickle 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S

I think E1 5a, just enough sustained moves together to make it E1 with ok gear.

with davenev
davenev 03/Mar/13 2nd dog
with luke
Samuel Wainwright 11/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
general 30/Sep/12 2nd
with Ian Lau
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
burto 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with tom powell
Hidden 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Tom Seccombe 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tim exley 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/11 TR O/S
nickdonohue ?/Nov/11 TR

tide too high to establish belay so lowered down to start & reclimbed

with Jim Barritt
Elaine Budden 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
sparbus 14/Oct/11 Lead

Bold bits 4c rather than 5a. Splendid.

with mike b
halfwaythere 06/Oct/11 2nd
Kirill 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

grabbed the peg, otherwise clean

with Chris Donica
Jim Slater 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S

E1 in guide. Took a while to work out the sequence from the small ledge. Excellent route.

mark20 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Fran S8 07/Aug/11 2nd
Bristoldave 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Scary (but avoidable) loose block at the top

with nick
misterb ??/2011 Lead O/S

fine balancy e 0 climbing

with wain
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
culmclimberRob 17/Sep/10 Lead

almost had the onsight no troubles just one fall after the first peg, just went the wrong way about traversing around the overlap, had no problems apart from that, good climb

with kelvin
Dawlish 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Rob
Mike W ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S
John Lisle ??/2008 -
manwithacam ?/Oct/07 2nd

Gorgeous varied route.

with Martin
thomasadixon 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, especially moving up following the flake. Never E1 though, it's HVS if quite hard in places. Toby's idea not letting Josh climb down by the way (good one though)!

with Josh, Toby
freelancer_85 03/Sep/07 2nd O/S

And Toby. Faffed around at the start for an age, only carried on because Tom wouldn't let me downclimb back to the ground! Really nice route though. One of the blocks at the top is very loose though, so be careful!

with Tom
brian watson ?/Sep/07 -
with scott titt
Hidden 28/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/07 -
Ybot Htulk ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Josh and Tom
Julia Chatterton 24/Mar/07 2nd

Amazing pitch, never thought it possible to layback on a slab, but it is!

with Will
climber sim ??/2007 -
John Lisle ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 27/Oct/06 2nd
with Stu Bradbury
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Steev
Daniel Wrightson 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 08/Jul/06 2nd O/S

Nice route. Probably E1 as the gear is a bit thin.

John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
Urgles ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
charlesmfrench 15/Feb/04 2nd O/S
jmhood ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Caroline Dix
Hidden 20/Sep/03 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Jul/01 2nd O/S
timreynolds 23/Sep/00 Lead
with Paul Bastiaiens
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/00 TR


NickP ??/2000 -
chris sm 05/Oct/97 2nd O/S
with Dom Goodridge
alan moore ??/1996 -

Hard, black, greasy E1

colin milton 20/Aug/95 Lead
with eric milton
tracyclimber 16/Jul/95 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/93 -
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Tim M ??/1991 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Moses 24/Dec/89 2nd
Andy Say 01/Nov/89 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Adam Harvey
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
Tom V 16/Aug/87 -
with Howie Darwin
jcw ??/1987 2nd
with Mike Dawes
eroica64 23/Aug/86 Lead
with Denis Crampton
Simon cook ?/Aug/86 -
mikej 20/Sep/85 Lead
with Mike Byles
Hidden 07/Jul/85 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?/Oct/84 Lead O/S
shark 29/Jul/84 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
Richard Weller 12/May/84 2nd
with Rory O'Connor
Ena ?/Aug/83 2nd
with Mark Courtiour
Mark Kemball 19/Jun/83 Lead
with Mike Arnold
Hammy 19/Aug/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
beaumap 26/Jun/81 Lead
with Martin Davis
mark-abz 21/Jun/81 Lead
with Kev H
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Mike C 08/Jun/80 2nd
Hidden ?/May/80 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/78 2nd
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
D Tempest ?/Jan/77 Lead
turnerk ??/1976 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
badgerjockey, andrewmcleod, OllieF, Hidden, AJH, Hartley
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set