|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Becky E||16/Sep||2nd O/S||
Superb. Long. Didn't enjoy the pendulum. Abseils fortunately straightforward.
|Graeme Hammond||16/Sep||Lead O/S|
Seconding due to knackered knee, 5hrs up, 1.5hrs down :)
Simul climb in 3.5 hours. Getting down in sandals was awful.
getting off the ground is the crux
Big day out and need to start early to avoid crowds. A few scrappy pitches after P1 but soon gets interesting again. Long, long abseils!
Alternate 5.8 start. Just run up the rest - awesome route.
|chris smith||?/Apr||AltLd O/S||
Most of the pitches are more like Mod or grade 3 scramble. Wanders a lot!
Full moon ascent, unfortunately hampered by smoke from the recent fire.
Thunderstorm from P13 onwards. Last 3 pitches of Ab by head torch. 13 hours car to car. Marvellous!
First multipitch abseil!
great climbing experience but lots of scrambling non rope sections.added in some harder pitches to add interest.
ross garfoot, chris Lyness
|Drew M||?/Aug/14||AltLd O/S|
|Stickle Tarn||20/Apr/14||AltLd O/S|
|Ollie B||30/Sep/13||Solo O/S||
Roped up for the slab pitch only. Thought Duncan (Ukc assistant editor) was going to die!
|Duncan Campbell||27/Sep/13||Solo O/S||
Roped up for 2 pitches only, a 5.7 crack I nearly fell off and Mark dropped me a rope, and for the slab pitch! Pendulum is awesome! Did two 5.8 variations...
Fun Easy Day.
|Neil Adams||25/Sep/13||AltLd O/S||
A bit rambling but very good
A nice lazy day seconding!
Quite rambling with good climbing mixed in with a lot of scrambling. Brilliant 5.7 hand crack, and the pendulum was good fun. The traverse and the last pitch is far harder than 5.4!
Simil climbed with Toby. Good fun route but too many parties to by pass and that. Penj was fun tho. Going to link with crest jewel but couldn't find it and had an epic with the water and tobys jeans. Nice one mate. Haha decent via north dome gully so good to scout the descent.
Simul climbed in 90 minutes and linked with North Dome South Face. Not a particularly classic climbing, rather broken up i thought, especially in comparison with S face of N Dome (quite a lot harder).
11 hours car to car. 16 pitches (17 if you count the fact that we had to reverse pitch 16 to get back to the abseil bolts. There was a bit of water after the pendulum pitch and lots of pine needles on the final slab.
Started in a blizzard!!! Awesome day, with traverse through a waterfall for pitch after pendulum...
Very pleasant climb.
Tyler Balfour, Enmore Lin
katy whitticker, ryan p, pete hurley, irish si
Fantastic day out, moving fast with other teams about. Eight hours car door to car door.
|Chris Sansum||17/Sep/11||AltLd O/S||
Did a nice 5.9 crack variation after the traverse after the pendulum.
|Andy McCarter||13/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
First big climb! Just avoided the rain storm as we left.
EPIC, didnt take enough water, abbed off in the dark
~9 hours to do the route; ~3 hours to descend. Me - pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15 Hol - pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 Didn't bother with the final (16th pitch) as we would have had to reverse the pitch immediately in order to abseil from the top of pitch 15.
Simul climbed for speed as we were linking with Crest Jewel on North Dome. 3h30 for The Arches.
Comedy on the pendulum. Find it bizarre the abseil bolts are before the crux of the climb!!!! - talk about crux dodging. Thought this a steady severe until the crux traverse after the abseil bolts on the supposed '5.4 slabs' which most miss out. I'd grade that appallingly deceptive 5.4 final pitch VS, those slabs are as psychologically hard as the glass traverse on Snake Dike, although perhaps not technically as hard. Did the higher 5.6 traverse to get back to the abseil bolts whihc was made harder by the ballbearings! The horrendous 10 abseils made me wish I had traversed the death slabs for a third time! Defo recommend North Gully descent.
Amazing climb in blazing hot weather. Did thedirect start (5.8) to avoid the crowd at the start. Brilliant pitches stacked on top of each other. The pendulem is nothing to worry about but the rap of is. Be careful to find the right bolts and avoid doing the last 3 in the dark....like we did! 12hrs for up and down.
|Jimmy O||21/Jun/10||AltLd O/S|
|dan gibson||07/May/10||AltLd rpt||
linked with crest jewel in a day
This time we climbed it properly and very quickly to get access to North Dome where we were climbing Crest Jewel the next day. A LOT NICER the second time with no haul bag!
This time we used it as a practice overnight climb. Bad choice to do so, not steep which made hauling a nightmare. But spent a night on the porter ledge for the first time!
Rapped down before the pendulum due to rain. Dissapointed not to get this done in the end.
Thanh and Mike
rampant and general
6 hours 1400 feet, Led 1,5,6,8,11,14,15. Moved together on 2,3,4.
Finished about 11am which was when it was starting to get TOO hot to do anything, so very happy about that. Had to cool abseil devices in puddles on descent as they were so hot and yes, they did sizzle.
As a team of 3 , free and bivi at the top...awesome adventure.
|chris sm||??/2003||AltLd O/S||
Great Route. hardest part is the traverse off the finish and finding the route to walk back down to the valley
Abseil descent crazy
15-odd pitches in 3 hrs with French guide I met at Camp 4.
|dan gibson||?/Sep/98||AltLd O/S||
|Scott McRae||?/Sep/95||AltLd O/S||
|Jonathan Lagoe - UKC||?/Sep/95||AltLd||
Simul-climbed and rapped off. Crux free is straightforward.
|Paula Hamilton-Gibson||15/Sep/87||Lead O/S||