Varsity Buttress* VS 4b
[Bob on the crux, Varsity Buttress, 2 kb]Good route, starts at a clearing on left of 50ft wall, the first rocks found on the path to the crag.
1.60ft 4b Climb on polished holds, unprotected for 12 feet. First move right, then left to the arete. Follow the arete to tree belay.
2.70ft A bit of a scramble up to 'the nose', a large block. Belay on left.
3. 70ft 4b Gain the scoop on the left face of the nose and move to the arete, go directly to the top.
Descend via 'grassy gully' on left
Birmingham uni 'stoats' ??? 1940's?

Photo: Bob on the crux, Varsity Buttress © caradoc
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 43 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - 18/Jun/14

ADConway - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Amy Sidderley

snowfluke - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Alex Conway

Exciting last pitch!
Rosie Henstock - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Tom Green

The last pitch is awesome. The way off has been cleared of gorse.
TGreen - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Rosie Henstock

grady - Lead O/S - Jun/12

deejmonkey - AltLd - 24/May/12 with len, Damian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/12

Roch - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with James Ford

Daymo - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with Gaz

bavarianGaz - 2nd O/S - 19/May/11 with Damian

lizannday - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Joe Dowsett

uremac83 - 2011

just about worth a star for first and third pitch but the middle pitch is appalling.
Pylon King Against Capit@lism - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/10

Sam W - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with Nina Jenkinson

I gets spikey higher up
SGD - Solo - 17/Apr/10

finished with scramble through gorse!
climbingxcat - AltLd - 25/Jul/09 with Brian

Only to first pitch and then rigged for top roping
seb m-c - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Quentin Eardley

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/09

Samo - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Sam Twiddy

Random - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Sam Watkins

Linked as two pitches. Easy going for for VS.
Alex Thompson - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Jon Thompson

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/07

James Meredith - Lead O/S - 2006 with Matthew

Hidden - 2006

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/04 with Peter T, Joe

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

Led P1.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/03 with ChrisA

Wayne S - 2003

Roget - Solo O/S - 2003 with jim, jon

Great Airy pitches
Peakology - Lead O/S - 1999 with cat

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 1999 with Dom

Iain Thow - Solo - 28/Aug/96

Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 05/May/94 with CDW

chris d williams - 05/May/94 with Ian Archer

timjones - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/93 with Adeline Jones

Rog Wilko - Lead - Oct/92 with Debbie Wilkinson

Templeton Adams - 2nd - Sep/91

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/89

tlr - AltLd - 31/Aug/88 with Dad

babymoac - 28/May/77 with AUMC

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
wworthington1979, Ropeboy, Ander

Total votes cast 16
hard HVS0 of 7
HVS0 of 7
easy HVS0 of 7
hard VS3 of 7
VS1 of 7
easy VS2 of 7
hard HS1 of 7
HS0 of 7
easy HS0 of 7
hard 4c0 of 2
4c0 of 2
easy 4c0 of 2
hard 4b1 of 2
4b1 of 2
easy 4b0 of 2
hard 4a0 of 2
4a0 of 2
easy 4a0 of 2
3 Stars2 of 7
2 Stars2 of 7
1 Star2 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....1 of 7
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S