Varsity Buttress* VS 4b
[DJ leading a quality route, 3 kb]Good route, starts at a clearing on left of 50ft wall, the first rocks found on the path to the crag.
1.60ft 4b Climb on polished holds, unprotected for 12 feet. First move right, then left to the arete. Follow the arete to tree belay.
2.70ft A bit of a scramble up to 'the nose', a large block. Belay on left.
3. 70ft 4b Gain the scoop on the left face of the nose and move to the arete, go directly to the top.
Descend via 'grassy gully' on left
Birmingham uni 'stoats' ??? 1940's?

Photo: DJ leading a quality route © Daymo
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This climb is in 49 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

ADConway - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/15 with Wrekin MC

Did in 2 pitches, led pitch1
Clegm - AltLd - 11/Aug/15

Matt dislodged a pile of rocks down from the second pitch onto my belay. They smashed into the tree in front of me but I managed to hop onto a branch while maintaining a grip on the rope. One hit my wrist but the others flashed underneath me and disappeared down the first pitch. I advise extreme caution on this route.
caradoc - AltLd dnf - 21/Jul/15 with Matt H.

Good evening out. Decent top pitch with spectacular views !
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/15 with Robbie Leishman, Giles

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/Jun/15

Hidden - 18/Jun/14

ADConway - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Amy Sidderley

snowfluke - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Alex Conway

Exciting last pitch!
Rosie Henstock - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Tom Green

The last pitch is awesome. The way off has been cleared of gorse.
TGreen - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Rosie Henstock

grady - Lead O/S - Jun/12

deejmonkey - AltLd - 24/May/12 with len, Damian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/12

Roch - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with James Ford

Daymo - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with Gaz

bavarianGaz - 2nd O/S - 19/May/11 with Damian

lizannday - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Joe Dowsett

uremac83 - 2011

just about worth a star for first and third pitch but the middle pitch is appalling.
Urgles - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/10

Sam W - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with Nina Jenkinson

I gets spikey higher up
SGD - Solo - 17/Apr/10

finished with scramble through gorse!
climbingxcat - AltLd - 25/Jul/09 with Brian

Only to first pitch and then rigged for top roping
seb m-c - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Quentin Eardley

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/09

Samo - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Sam Twiddy

Random - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Sam Watkins

Linked as two pitches. Easy going for for VS.
Alex Thompson - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Jon Thompson

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/07

James Meredith - Lead O/S - 2006 with Matthew

Hidden - 2006

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/04 with Peter T, Joe

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

Led P1.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/03 with ChrisA

Wayne S - 2003

Roget - Solo O/S - 2003 with jim, jon

Great Airy pitches
Peakology - Lead O/S - 1999 with cat

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 1999 with Dom

Iain Thow - Solo - 28/Aug/96

Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 05/May/94 with CDW

chris d williams - 05/May/94 with Ian Archer

timjones - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/93 with Adeline Jones

Rog Wilko - Lead - Oct/92 with Debbie Wilkinson

Rich Kay - 2nd - Sep/91

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/89

tlr - AltLd - 31/Aug/88 with Dad

babymoac - 28/May/77 with AUMC

RichardMc - Lead - 31/Mar/68

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
wworthington1979, Ropeboy, Ander

Total votes cast 23
hard HVS0 of 10
HVS0 of 10
easy HVS0 of 10
hard VS3 of 10
VS2 of 10
easy VS3 of 10
hard HS1 of 10
HS1 of 10
easy HS0 of 10
hard 4c0 of 5
4c0 of 5
easy 4c0 of 5
hard 4b1 of 5
4b3 of 5
easy 4b0 of 5
hard 4a0 of 5
4a1 of 5
easy 4a0 of 5
3 Stars2 of 8
2 Stars2 of 8
1 Star3 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....1 of 8
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat