101m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fun outing that lies close to the A5 and catches sun for much of the day. The first pitch has lovely rock and the final traverse negotiates some interesting gendarmes not unlike an alpine ridge. Start at the base of the ridge close to the letters PR scratched in the rock.
1) 40m. Follow the right-hand of the two ribs on wonderful clean rock to a steep blocky section that leads to a heathery terrace.
2) 15m. Follow easier ground to a good spike belay on a ledge.
3) 22m. Traverse right and climb the ridge to another ledge.
4) 20m. Follow the crested ridge to gain easy ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A four pitch climb with easy access from the road and fun and interesting moves. 1) 30m. Start on a slabby rib which has PR scratched onto it, about 50m? up from the road. Delicate start on small holds. Some tricky moves if in boots. Awkward move into a groove formed on the side of a large block to a possible belay (good, we used it). Or continue more or less straight up and belay on a ledge with spike belays. (This might be the same thing - guidebook is a little confusing)
2) 22m. Continue up a groove for 10m to a heather terrace. Scramble up to reach a sloping heathery ledge with spike belay.
3) 23m. Traverse up and right over heather and rock to just below the continuing ridgeline. (Possible belay if rope drag is a problem.) Good holds lead up to the ridge and a ledge with spike belay.
4) 23m. Climb up to a small ledge below the first pinnacle. (The grade 2 scramble enters from the right about here.) Climb the 3m wall using big flaky holds to end up at the base of the first pinnacle. Climb up and over the pinnacles. (Getting down the first pinnacle's other side is tricky for the short. Can avoid it easily, but it is fun!) After the second big slender pinnacle, climb up a rocky step to a heathery grassy shoulder.

Looked for the loose block previously mentioned on pitch 2. Could not see it presume someone has removed it. Good 1st pitch, great atmospheric 4th pitch!

KU Ingold, Miss PJ Fearon, JM Bell 1950

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs.

gazj1986 16/Oct Lead
Hidden 10/Oct Lead O/S
mikej 01/Oct 2nd
with Mike Byles, John Kendrick
Hidden 27/Sep Lead O/S
emc110502 27/Sep 2nd O/S

Good finish

Andrew Sloan 24/Sep AltLd O/S

Wasn't sure where the start was, couldn't find the 'PR' scratched into the rock. The first pitch we did was more like VS.

with Steve Grove
Roger Cruse 25/Aug AltLd O/S
with Kris
alaster tonge 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Assad Lahlou
Hidden 06/Aug Lead
danieleaston 25/Jul AltLd O/S

I didn't think this was very good, p1 is good but 2&3 is a wade through gorse and the pinnacles felt a bit artificial, as you could just walk past.

with Dave B, Dave M
Hidden 25/Jul Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Jul AltLd O/S
SAF 25/Jul AltLd O/S

Led P4, as phil led the first 3 pitches as one!

MusicalMountaineer 27/Jun Lead O/S

Good fun. Probably not worth 2 stars, middle pitches are a walk.

ash longreach 27/Jun AltLd

Bumped into Dan Baileys Photographer for his upcoming welsh ridges book. Might have a photo in a guide book! Prob a pic of me smoking on the belay. Standard!

with John
CameronH 07/Jun Lead O/S
simrun 07/Jun 2nd O/S
chris cockbain 02/Jun AltLd O/S

wet and windy, nearly got blown off the top spike

Alex Mynard 02/Jun AltLd O/S

Confusing to find the start. We think we climbed the wrong part at the beginning. Awesome views though.

HumphreyJ20 30/May AltLd O/S
Valentino 30/May Lead O/S
with Jay
stacey73 ?/May AltLd

p1 M P3 Em

with Emma
Oujmik 26/Apr Lead dnf

Started up the wrong rib and retreated after briefly trying a very steep move up a corner. The only guidebook we had with us didn't offer any further wisdom on where to find the true start so we just skipped the first two pitches and went straight to the Pinnacles. The down climb off the first one seemed pretty tricky (even after I realised that you're supposed to go round the left of it and not right onto the the top) so just came back down and walked around. Second pinnacle was easier - photo opportunity taken but route not really climbed.

with Jyoti
Hidden 08/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr -
Hidden 20/Feb AltLd O/S
magik_bob 15/Aug/14 Lead
JenRoberts 07/Aug/14 2nd
with Greg (AI), Ollie
uphillnow 12/Jun/14 AltLd
with Rik
JezzaCat 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Stella
carl_123 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

Not worth the walk

Hidden 26/May/14 -
jimartin 13/May/14 AltLd

Stefan P1 and P3 John P2 and P4 Start to a good week in Ogwen and Llanberis!

Stefan Trebicki 13/May/14 AltLd
runwildjohn 04/May/14 AltLd

Led p1, 3+4, Dave led 2.

with Dave Rawlinson
tomdadom 18/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

big boots - missed p1

with Rhys
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
alan moore ??/2014 -

Fun scramble.

steve1234 ??/2014 AltLd O/S


BradleyWhite 09/Nov/13 Lead
morgan91 09/Nov/13 AltLd
cwildblood 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead
Zoomer 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Went up the direct groove on the first pitch, VS? the rest was a saunter but nice over the pinnacles.

with A Student
Hidden 17/Jun/13 Lead
peterhubbard 16/Jun/13 Lead

Climbed it in 3 pitches. I led 1 and 3 (the best ones!)

with Neil Stutchbury
Half Pint Lizz 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Claudina led pitches 1 and 3, I led pitches 2 (scramble) and 4 (pinnacles).

with Claudina
nicknicely 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

off route to start

with Jon
Hidden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
Rafal Malczyk 06/May/13 AltLd
with Efe Tunc
Monkey_Alan 04/May/13 Lead O/S

In walking boots. Tricky step off the pinnacle - worse for the seconds. Nice route to avoid the crowds on a bank holiday weekend.

with Marta Adamus, Anne-Marie Shepherd
Hidden ?/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 AltLd
Hidden 09/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Mayaculpa 27/Jan/13 Solo

Big boots and windy. Ommitted P1, a bit too damp. Soloing the tops was exciting, hunkering down during big gusts, lol then hanging on to the top rail with the rest of your body flapping like washing on a line :-)

with Jason
LP ??/2013 Lead O/S

A cheeky little number, marred by a bit of gorse. A good place to practice not falling off as it was the girlfriends second climb. If only it was all like the first pitch. Loved the comedy moments on the first pinnacle where you teeter, wobble, scuttle then walk back round the path to you r second.

Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Hidden 24/Oct/12 -
JonClark ?/Sep/12 Lead
Huw Mithan 24/Aug/12 AltLd
with David Webster, Emma Johnson
Webster 24/Aug/12 AltLd

first pitch hard for V diff, rest is a scramble which makes up for it.

Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/12 AltLd
AielSavage ?/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 27/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Solo
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
mheyes101 15/Apr/12 AltLd
Alex 74 12/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Pete B
abercolin 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Good for pitches one and three (two is mainly heather bashing).

kat-lyle 26/Feb/12 AltLd
with fred
Fred_Richard 26/Feb/12 AltLd
with Kat
Greg M 26/Feb/12 AltLd
with Pete H
Paul1 28/Jan/12 AltLd

in boots, Lead first pitch( very hard for grade)-belayed early by accident-Rhian lead the rest of first and second across alot of heather- I lead abit more heather till rope drag stopped play. Rhian lead the first pinnacle( very scary to second, plase low down sling for down climbing pinicle then flicked of), again rope drag stopped her- I lead the second pinnacle and finished.

with Rhian littlewood, Nicole
col3 28/Jan/12 2nd O/S

Excellent route, very alpine! Walk-up was quite dodgy, very loose and slippy - went straight up from road. Did in B2 boots. The first pitch is REALLY hard in boots! There are very few foot holds and hand holds are far apart, so as a short person I struggled! A lot of moves you just have to go for and hope. Paul pitched early behind a massive balanced block - good belay, better than if he'd belayed later I think. Fourth was back to rock! Lots of giant holds, lovely! Then the first pinnacle... terrifying. Second pinnacle had surprising lack of footholds but I just put my elbows round the top so my arms weren't doing too much work and shuffled. Scary! Amazing route though!

with Rhian, Paul
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
petecox84 ??/2012 -
adam06 ??/2012 AltLd
with dan sturman
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/11 2nd
timcedwards 23/Sep/11 2nd
with Bill Thurston
Wolfy1987 NEWMC 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
mksmith35 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitch.

atyson1 14/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 AltLd
LauraChilterns 09/Jul/11 2nd β
with Dominic Turner
owain86 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Lisa-Marie 03/Jul/11 -

Hard first pitch, easier after that.

with Owain
Hidden 18/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Ian JL 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
jack89 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

As 3 pitches, with a bit extra round some chossy outcrops to the top, good fun, short route!1,3

gaz_jones 27/Apr/11 AltLd
Richard Alderton 26/Apr/11 AltLd

Making best use of the weather window in impending clag. Led P1, P3+P4. Slightly spoiled by the gorsewhacking and the escapability of it all, but all good clean fun. Best approach is to walk along the A5 until the ridge is visible above, via a ten-minute slog.

with Ellie
EllieWoods 26/Apr/11 AltLd
with Rich
Andy White 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 & 3 as single pitch

Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd
spooksthehorse 21/Apr/11 AltLd

Pitches 1 and 3

with Joe
Hidden 10/Apr/11 AltLd
Chris M Thomas 20/Mar/11 AltLd

Late in the afternoon - sunny all day at Ogwen but raining at Tremadog - big mistake to go down there first.

with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 2nd O/S
EliotStephens 30/Jan/11 Solo O/S

Roped up on the tricky sections.

Wolfy1987 NEWMC 06/Jan/11 2nd
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
2852tomki ??/2011 -
partz 30/Dec/10 Solo O/S

In boots in wet, so some slight variations were made....

tdudley 30/Dec/10 Solo
chris687 ?/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
pffft 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

awesome fun, the rock has awesome texture and grip. Middle two pitches are just an easy scramble? Anyway... ended up ending first pitch half way up third pitch(?) next to a massive spike which i thought was end of second pitch. Pinnacles were good fun, would do again :)

with Sophie Clarke, Laura Hibberd
Caralynh 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/10 Solo O/S
electriclinz 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led the gorsey pitch - now fully understand the term 'spike belay' and the pinnacles. Excellent climb

with Robert
Hidden 19/Jul/10 Lead rpt
MCL 03/Jul/10 Lead
with Steph
Lawrence Eccles 11/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/May/10 AltLd
petzl 29/May/10 Lead
with Ben Ormerod
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead rpt
Lawrence Bird 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

Route abandoned after 2 pitches - very dull and more of a vegetated scramble than a climb! Finding the rock beneath the heather was more challenging than the climbing!

with Yogi Bear
Martyn 09/May/10 2nd rpt
with Mark Albutt
Hidden 03/May/10 AltLd
andrzej kierzek 03/May/10 AltLd O/S

Climbed with Andy Debrou

simozzer ?/May/10 Lead
with Cass
Noodles 20/Apr/10 -

Somewhat short and overgrown. More of a scramble then an actual climb

Hidden 20/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 03/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Gerallt Owain 04/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
stevechaps1 04/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jan/10 Lead rpt
Simon Preuss ??/2010 AltLd
Renegade_Pony 20/Oct/09 2nd
with barni
barni 19/Oct/09 AltLd
with Justin Hughes, Jack
Hidden 18/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden 24/Sep/09 Lead
Martyn 19/Sep/09 AltLd

Great atmospheric feel to the route in general, short but hard walk in.

with Ryan Simpson
cbeard 30/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
jonnyhawkins1 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with charlie beard
adi bryant 27/Aug/09 Lead
with Lee
Glyn 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S

first pitch is HVD after that its just scrambling. Pinnacles are cool but sadly very avoidable.

with Clive Hudson (father)
Hidden 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Rhiannon Davies 18/Jul/09 2nd
kiwi boy 12/Jul/09 AltLd dnf

climb abandoned after first pitch. no_more_scotch_eggs in climbing pair above. Large TV sized block loose on mid pitch 2 and likely to fall. Retreated off left hand side of route on absail

with tamsin
Hidden 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
no_more_scotch_eggs 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

as below. near start of pitch two, in the heather jungle, there is a large block which looks like it offers a reassuring moment of stability in a sea of choss and vegetation. it doesn't. had to sit holding it until my brother came off the belay and climbed up to me; together we pushed it back into place. unable to remove it from route as another party below us on pitch one, and too heavy to lift to drop it down side. also concerned that with enough momentum it might have reached road. its stable enough it wont move by itself, but dont go pulling on it. actually, dont pull on anything on pitch 2, its just horrible. pitches 1 and 4 however, are excellent.

Cardi ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Huw O
kylieo 22/Jun/09 AltLd
with Phil
Hidden 22/Jun/09 AltLd
Stuart Hurworth 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Awesome pinnacles, but most of the climb is a scramble.

Hidden 07/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 23/May/09 2nd O/S

Done with one working foot in big hiking boots, still got a heel hook by my ear in :-)

with Tom C & Nick
stevepotter 03/May/09 Solo
simozzer 02/May/09 AltLd
with Matthew
alun1111 18/Apr/09 Lead
Neil Metcalfe101 13/Apr/09 AltLd

I lead 1st but made it hard by not swinging round to the left from the corner.

with Allan Mac
Rock Fairy 12/Apr/09 AltLd
with sharon
liam prince 11/Apr/09 Lead

A nice route for my first proper lead, was more gors than i'd hoped for half way up.

with simon gill
Nicholas Livesey 31/Mar/09 AltLd
with Peter Machin
Sardien 21/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Emlyn W. Roberts, Si Creer
emlynroberts 21/Feb/09 AltLd
with Serinde VanWijk, Si Creer
The Bad Cough 03/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Nov/08 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Katie86 08/Jun/08 AltLd

Fell off pinnacle on traverse and broke ankle. Swung to last pinnacle, climbed back up to pinnacle and to pitch head using arms and hopping technique. Decent by bum shuffling scree, grass, heather etc to road and being belayed by mark over the grass and the drop to the road. Decent time 2.5 hours (3hrs to road after injury).

with Mark
John HW 26/May/08 AltLd
with Rhys HW, Cath
Hidden 26/May/08 AltLd
Ben Watts 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Richard Henton
Sankey 03/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy
freemanTom ?/May/08 Lead
with Claire Williams, Abi Greves
Allan Young 05/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Turner
Neil Metcalfe101 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S

1st full lead. Slightly inclement with snow on ledges and flurries falling.

treeminkies 24/Mar/08 2nd
with neil
RAF2008 09/Mar/08 2nd
with Baldeagle
gareth scott borthwick 23/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

climbed in rain and wind

guy stabler ??/2008 -
Graeme Hammond 26/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Jay
Em66 23/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Mat, Ru
Hidden ?/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead
bobpilgrem 22/Aug/07 Lead O/S

First and third pitches great.Second was a batttle through gorse and heather! Also split initial pitch into 3 to allow me to keep a close watch on my son seconding. First pitch a sustained HVD- but plenty of great protection.

with Bob/Tom
Rich Clague ?/Jul/07 Lead
Joe Miller 15/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Malcolm
coffeepot 26/May/07 AltLd O/S

This was the most thriling Vdiff i have ever done. Paul decided to belay from the base of the chimney, meaning i had maximum rope drag as i moved across the pinnacles. Needless to say, i was so terrified i ended up weaving my way thorugh them, increasing the rope drag. I had a Rockey-esque moment on the other side on all fours pulling the rope up ....heeeeve! Fight your partner for the top pirch, though not the gorse pitch.

with jelaby
richardr ?/May/07 -

A good scramble, poor rock climb.

Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd
Mattyk 06/Apr/07 Solo O/S

Pleasant. fairly exposed in places, nice moves on P3 if you traverse right into space!

Hidden ?/Apr/07 -
LakesWinter 25/Mar/07 AltLd

Not that great!

with No one
Alex Thompson 25/Feb/07 Solo O/S

Easy but exposed scramble route up Pinnacle Ridge?

with Jonny
Keith Jones 29/Oct/06 2nd
with David
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
kleinej 22/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Sam, Harry
Hidden 07/May/06 Lead
Clucky 01/May/06 Lead O/S
with Alison Boag Munroe
Brown ??/2006 Solo O/S
rogerskews ??/2006 AltLd
with Martin Coward
KeithW 15/Oct/05 AltLd O/S

Led 2 & 4.

with Grahaeme
Tom Last ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with Clive & Sean
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
mikej 15/May/05 Lead
with E
Jamie B ?/May/05 -

Excellent wee route. The pinnacles are a bit contrived, but memorable nevertheless.

with Kris Quayle
Hidden 06/Apr/05 Lead
bms 10/Oct/03 Solo
with BCS
unfit 22/Mar/03 AltLd
with Matt A and MAtt W and John N
Hidden 10/Sep/02 Solo
Hidden 13/Jul/02 AltLd
FrankW 02/Dec/01 AltLd O/S
with Mark L
Urgles ?/Apr/00 AltLd O/S

in snow showers

with Laura
DerwentDiluted 31/May/99 Lead
with Laurie Smith
Hidden 01/May/99 AltLd
Mike_T0501 01/May/99 AltLd O/S
aged_ape ?/May/99 AltLd O/S
with Matt O
ed woods ??/1999 Lead
with Jen
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/98 AltLd
with Alan Nuttall
Hidden ??/1997 -
TobyA 16/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Miia, Elina, Olly
Marti999 ??/1996 Solo
Ian Archer 06/Aug/95 AltLd

Good fun on the traverse

with Andy Symonds
colin milton 29/May/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Rob Davies 30/Apr/95 Solo

Climbed this while Pete and Charles did Decameron Rib

Hidden 13/Sep/93 AltLd
Hidden 26/Apr/93 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/93 AltLd O/S
Ian Robertson ??/1993 AltLd
with Dave Owen
stokienomad 14/Jul/91 AltLd
Hidden 04/Nov/90 Solo
babymoac 02/Nov/90 -
Ched ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Hammy 02/Aug/87 Solo
Iain Thow 30/Nov/86 Solo
nigehughes ?/Sep/84 AltLd
with Steve Main
nigehughes ?/Oct/82 Solo
Nigel Bond 05/Jun/82 Lead
with Jeff
mikej 08/Jun/77 Lead
with Tony Waite
Bolt Phobia 20/Feb/76 Solo
Mike Owen ?/Aug/75 -
with John Roberts
Hidden ?/Oct/74 -
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Votes cast 46
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