UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well-travelled expedition at the grade which can be extended by climbing the route Out Of Your Tree on The Basement Lift. Start at a single bolt belay under a slab.
1) 3b, 18m Take the slab and ledges to easy ground, above which is a steep wall. Climb the wall on big holds to a ledge and bolted belay, (keep out of the loose corner on the left).
2) 4c, 12m. Move left and climb a short crack. Go diagonally left to finish at a bolted lower-off/abseil station. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A surprisingly amenable outing that gradually builds in difficulty, interest and exposure. Some slings/long quick-draws required for the first pitch. Start underneath Back on the Game at a single bolt belay (next to three painted green streaks).
1 20m F3 [8B] Step up left to a ring bolt and climb a short, little slab followed by a series of steps above to pull onto an open terrace. A few scrambling moves lead to big holds on a solid wall immediately right of a prominent suspect corner. Belay on the clean-cut ledges up above at a double ring abseil station.
2 10m F4+ [5B] Step out left and climb the short layback crack to gain a welcome foot-ledge then continue diagonally leftwards to finish at a double ring abseil station shared with Playing Hooky. Either abseil (30m) to the floor or lower off down to the platform atop pitch 1 of Playing Hooky and then, from there, make a short easy abseil to where you started.

Gordon A Jenkin, John Willson 22/Oct/2015.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Salathe Lite , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)

Feedback

User Date Notes
tristandell 7 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Still an awful lot of loose rock on the first pitch. Watch out for climbers below!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Still an awful lot of loose rock on the first pitch. Watch out for climbers below!
ryan1410 5 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Don\'t bring second up to top of 2nd pitch. Hanging belay. Get lowered back down to belay stance and then switch to let them climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't bring second up to top of 2nd pitch. Hanging belay. Get lowered back down to belay stance and then switch to let them climb.
Uluru 8 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Quite a bit of loose rock on the F3+ pitch so take care when climbing and abbing back down.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite a bit of loose rock on the F3+ pitch so take care when climbing and abbing back down.

Logged Ascents

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Votes cast 11
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