UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is within Earls Hill Nature Reserve which is managed by Shropshire Wildlife Trust. The Trust have a positive view of climbing here providing that people are sensitive to the ecological interests of the site. In particular the scree slopes should be treated with care. No camping and no fires, please.

The 'Fifty Foot Wall' routes were cleaned up and extensively restored in early 2013, with the intention of giving climbers an alternative area if (as often happens) Peregrines choose to nest on the main crag. Feel free to go try these - you might actually like them...

In late 2013, the Wildlife Trust undertook some further vegetation clearance work, mainly of invasive trees on the scree slopes, but also of scrub on the rocks. The intent was to improve the cliff environment from the climbers' point of view, as it will allow more light and air to dry the rocks better.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 March to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines normally nest at Pontesford Rocks each year, with the nest site changing slightly from year to year. Site notices are normally placed on gates on the access track, and near the foot of the crag showing the extent of agreed restrictions, but as a general principle please avoid the whole crag (Main Buttress, The Needle and the Fifty Foot Wall) during the restricted period.

In 2020, we attempted to find a way to permit the use of some routes whilst closing others, but a number of incidents occurred which meant this was not really workable. This included one party who apparently abseiled right over the ledge with the nest and caused considerable consternation to the birds.

The Shropshire Wildlife Trust, The Shropshire Peregrine Group and the BMC would like to thank all climbers who have avoided the rocks during the 2020, 2021, 2022 and 2023 nesting seasons. There appear to have been chicks raised successfully in each of those years.In early 2024, the birds have been seen prospecting the site once again, and it looks like they've selected the same nest location that they've used successfully for the last couple of years - it is therefore necessary to impose the same seasonal restriction as mentioned above between early March and mid July.

52m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The highlight of this route is the eye-catching square-cut corner/groove high on the face above the slab.
1) 4a, 21m. Climb the narrow inset slab between the main slab and Grassy Gully and make a technical move out left onto the main slab. Continue up the slab and short wall and then move right to a large tree and belay.
2) 4b, 12m. Make some bold moves up and left into the corner/groove. Climb it and exit left at its top to a tree belay on the terrace, or better a nut belay a little higher. The groove can be gained directly at 4c.
3) 20m. Walk left 7m down the terrace and climb a slab to finish as for the final pitch of Wall End Climb. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Some fine climbing. Small narrow subsidiary slab lies just right of the Wall End slab.

A.J.J. Moulam, P.J.Harding 1949.

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