Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
An intense climb up the blank section of wall to the left of Lost Horizon. Start a for Lost Horizon. Move left and up to and over a right-angled overlap via thin moves to a horizontal crack. Move up left to a peg (and good small wire) in a thin crack and make fingery moves to a horizontal break. Continue more easily up to another break then move right and climb with difficulty to a ledge in the upper break. Step left and finish up a thin crack. © Rockfax
Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , South West in Extremis
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jacob Eagles | 19 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: Second lead attempt. Mega route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Second lead attempt. Mega route |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Foggintor Quarry)