|A truly fantastic route that is slightly marred by the fact the first ascensionists drilled several artificial handholds. Inspite of this it gives a complete climbing experience providing everything one could ask for (except perhaps solitude). It is a classic 'must-do' for anyone up to the challenge!|
The route is semi-bolted but should not be considered a sport route. Take plenty of quickdraws for all the fixed gear (which is of varying quality). It is also worth taking a set of wires and cams to back up your protection.
Start beneath a rightwards-slanting corner, about 80m left of the start of the rising ramp to Comici-Dimai, and just right of where the white wall of the main face meets an area of black rock on the bottom right-hand corner of Cima Grande.
1) V+, 40m. Climb the initial short crack to enter the corner proper. Follow this before moving right into a second corner. Continue up this to a good stance on the top of a small pillar.
2) V+, 40m. Ignore the pitons above (they are part of Saxon's Superdirettissima - a rarely done route), instead make a rising traverse left over the flake just off the stance. Continue up a second flake and belay on the top, directly below a square-shaped roof.
3) VII+, 30m. Climb up to a small roof and overcome it, finishing slightly left at the top.
4) V+, 25m. Climb the ramp above, moving slightly right at first, before finishing left.
5) VII-, 30m. Climb direct up the wall and belay on the top of another small pillar.
6) VII, 30m. Climb the wall above, past a couple of hard moves leading slightly right, before heading back left along a shallow ramp. Belay on a good ledge.
7) VII-, 35m. Make a short horizontal traverse to the left - hard at first but becoming easier on pockets - until you reach a flake. Overcome this and follow the left-slanting crack to the belay.
8) IV+, 40m. Traverse left until a blank-looking section forces you to down climb slightly to continue to the traverse. Finish by aiming for the terrace beneath the overhanging corners of the crux pitches.
9) VII-, 30m. Climb direct to arrive underneath the prominent line of roofs easily seen from the ground. Make a rising traverse right under these until you get to a hanging stance.
10) VIII, 25m. This is where the real climbing begins. Climb the steep right-trending corner on a series of strenuous undercuts to an uncomfortable stance.
11) VIII, 30m. Continue on the same line following a wider crack, which can be jammed, or use crimps on the right.
12) VIII+, 30m. A stamina crack that is steeper than it looks provides the crux of the route. Climb it, or aid it on all the old pegs as desired.
13) VIII-, 30m. Climb initially right before going left over two athletic overhangs.
14) V+, 40m. Climb the corner above to some welcome easier ground beneath a yellow-looking wall. (If you're running late this is the most comfortable place to spend the night if you don't think you'll make the Ringband Terrace).
15) VI+, 30m. Climb the yellow wall above via a shallow crack-corner until you pass a roof.
16) VI, 40m. Continue up the steep crack above.
17) V, 60m. Follow the final prominent chimney which is often wet and exit onto the Ringband Terrace. © ROCKFAX
One of Europe's mosty sought after routes.
Photo: On the firsts pitches of the Hasse-Brandler (failed attempt, thou...) © Luis SD