Hasse-Brandler*** VIII+
[On the firsts pitches of the Hasse-Brandler   (failed attempt, thou...), 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A truly fantastic route that is slightly marred by the fact the first ascensionists drilled several artificial handholds. Inspite of this it gives a complete climbing experience providing everything one could ask for (except perhaps solitude). It is a classic 'must-do' for anyone up to the challenge!
The route is semi-bolted but should not be considered a sport route. Take plenty of quickdraws for all the fixed gear (which is of varying quality). It is also worth taking a set of wires and cams to back up your protection.
Start beneath a rightwards-slanting corner, about 80m left of the start of the rising ramp to Comici-Dimai, and just right of where the white wall of the main face meets an area of black rock on the bottom right-hand corner of Cima Grande.
1) V+, 40m. Climb the initial short crack to enter the corner proper. Follow this before moving right into a second corner. Continue up this to a good stance on the top of a small pillar.
2) V+, 40m. Ignore the pitons above (they are part of Saxon's Superdirettissima - a rarely done route), instead make a rising traverse left over the flake just off the stance. Continue up a second flake and belay on the top, directly below a square-shaped roof.
3) VII+, 30m. Climb up to a small roof and overcome it, finishing slightly left at the top.
4) V+, 25m. Climb the ramp above, moving slightly right at first, before finishing left.
5) VII-, 30m. Climb direct up the wall and belay on the top of another small pillar.
6) VII, 30m. Climb the wall above, past a couple of hard moves leading slightly right, before heading back left along a shallow ramp. Belay on a good ledge.
7) VII-, 35m. Make a short horizontal traverse to the left - hard at first but becoming easier on pockets - until you reach a flake. Overcome this and follow the left-slanting crack to the belay.
8) IV+, 40m. Traverse left until a blank-looking section forces you to down climb slightly to continue to the traverse. Finish by aiming for the terrace beneath the overhanging corners of the crux pitches.
9) VII-, 30m. Climb direct to arrive underneath the prominent line of roofs easily seen from the ground. Make a rising traverse right under these until you get to a hanging stance.
10) VIII, 25m. This is where the real climbing begins. Climb the steep right-trending corner on a series of strenuous undercuts to an uncomfortable stance.
11) VIII, 30m. Continue on the same line following a wider crack, which can be jammed, or use crimps on the right.
12) VIII+, 30m. A stamina crack that is steeper than it looks provides the crux of the route. Climb it, or aid it on all the old pegs as desired.
13) VIII-, 30m. Climb initially right before going left over two athletic overhangs.
14) V+, 40m. Climb the corner above to some welcome easier ground beneath a yellow-looking wall. (If you're running late this is the most comfortable place to spend the night if you don't think you'll make the Ringband Terrace).
15) VI+, 30m. Climb the yellow wall above via a shallow crack-corner until you pass a roof.
16) VI, 40m. Continue up the steep crack above.
17) V, 60m. Follow the final prominent chimney which is often wet and exit onto the Ringband Terrace. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
One of Europe's mosty sought after routes.

Photo: On the firsts pitches of the Hasse-Brandler (failed attempt, thou...) © Luis SD
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This climb is in 25 logbooks, and on 47 wishlists.

Luis SD - AltLd - 28/Jul/15

Brilliant route and great experience after wanting to do this for years! Might have o/s'ed it if I hadn't tried to run the 2 7a pitches together (a fall then a few rests). Fine lead by Ally of the 7a+ pitch! Pretty wasted by the top!
andyinglis - AltLd - 17/Jul/15 with Ally Fulton

Employing Andy's plan of "just getting on the fu**er" seemed to work. Felt fresh and ready at the start of the hard pitches. Due to Andy linking the two 7a pitches I didn't know I was on the crux. Sometimes it's better not to know and accidentally get the onsight! Lifetime tick!
Fultonius - Lead - 17/Jul/15 with Andy Inglis

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13

Aided through the 4 crux pitches on the roofs, which we always expected to do to be honest these alone must have taken us 3 hrs to do, all the other pitches quite straightforward with gear where needed and loads of creaky pegs on the cruxes to aid off. Route finding a little difficult on the lower traverse pitch, 13hrs on the route due to slowness on cruxes, a memorable day!!
a pedley - AltLd dog - 07/Aug/13 with Jim Burton

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/13

Dave Parton - 21/Jul/13 with Adam Ellwood

edinbed - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/12

Peter Holder - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Josh Legg

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/11

Not very well on this, very much a passenger!
tuftynick - AltLd - 16/Aug/11 with rich cross

josh william legg - Lead - Jul/11

A day to remember. Flippin' awesome!
Rich Kirby - AltLd - 19/Aug/09 with Nige

nige - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with richard kirby

What an amazing journey! Intimidating and scary all the way with some amazing exposure on the crux pitches. Unforgetable.
JulesV - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/09 with Will Boxen

The best day's climbing I have ever had. done with Rob & Stu
Graham Atkins - AltLd - 17/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/09

Awesome. One of the best routes I have ever climbed. Lead Off-width and crux stamina crack pitches, involved a lot of squirming on wet rock! Not quite Auchinstarry though!
mgeek - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with adam hughes & Jonny Stocking

Amazing route. Not quite comparable to a Gogarth E5, more like several in one day with a whole lot more.
akhughes - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Jonny Stocking & Mgeek

Incredible! The exposure and steepness on some of the pitches was out of this world!! All free apart from crux pitches where pulling on gear was essential for me ;-)
billb - AltLd - Aug/09 with jbvulliamy

Brilliant. 9h. Aided 1 pitch (6c+ enduro?) due to wetness
lukehunt - AltLd - 04/Jul/09 with Steve barrat

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/08

Steve Bell - 2nd dog - Aug/03 with Paul Reeve

sadams - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/01 with Eric Hildrew

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/99

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
bik, redshapedfriday, Timothy Miller, RonnydeWeerd, mcgovern, tim newton, quiffhanger, Justin T, dominic lee, Liam Ingram, sparkass, lanky and weak, mr mills, tom.ireson, Calder, rob.s22, Dan_Carroll, Dan Lane, samrad, felixthelion, ab tat, derico, Protheroe, Mark Walter, IanJackson

Total votes cast 15
hard IX-0 of 4
IX-0 of 4
easy IX-0 of 4
hard VIII+0 of 4
VIII+4 of 4
easy VIII+0 of 4
hard VIII0 of 4
VIII0 of 4
easy VIII0 of 4
3 Stars11 of 11
2 Stars0 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S