Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
One of the best VSs Around. Start at the continuous crack-line just left of the corner of Urizen. Follow the long, well-protected and sustained crack-line without deviation, but lots of grinning. © Rockfax
Ben & Marion Wintringham, Alan Baxter, Dave Johnston 01/Mar/1970.
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Moving to Devon , 2020/21 Trips , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Dan’s Delights , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Culm/Devon options
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jamesb101 | 30 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: This is foot jam central | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is foot jam central |
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JimOakleyAdventures | 24 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Last route of day, felt it having not climbed for 5 weeks ! Constant foot jamming with minimal rest Enjoyable though | βeta? | |
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βeta: Last route of day, felt it having not climbed for 5 weeks ! Constant foot jamming with minimal rest Enjoyable though |
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jimbonfire | 17 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Brilliant crack climbing, worth 3 stars | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant crack climbing, worth 3 stars |
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stevethomas | 18 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Very sustained, 5a most of the way. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very sustained, 5a most of the way. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)