UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

40m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best VSs Around. Start at the continuous crack-line just left of the corner of Urizen. Follow the long, well-protected and sustained crack-line without deviation, but lots of grinning. © Rockfax

Ben & Marion Wintringham, Alan Baxter, Dave Johnston 01/Mar/1970.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Moving to Devon , 2020/21 Trips , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Dan’s Delights , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Culm/Devon options

Feedback

User Date Notes
jamesb101 30 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: This is foot jam central
βeta?
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βeta: This is foot jam central
JimOakleyAdventures 24 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Last route of day, felt it having not climbed for 5 weeks ! Constant foot jamming with minimal rest Enjoyable though
βeta?
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βeta: Last route of day, felt it having not climbed for 5 weeks ! Constant foot jamming with minimal rest Enjoyable though
jimbonfire 17 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant crack climbing, worth 3 stars
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant crack climbing, worth 3 stars
stevethomas 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very sustained, 5a most of the way.
βeta?
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βeta: Very sustained, 5a most of the way.

Logged Ascents

1598 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 236
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 228
Votes cast 222
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Albion

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)

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