Bilbo's Revenge HVS 5a
[Bilbo's Revenge, 4 kb]20m. Excellent albeit short lived technicalities up the face at the right hand end of the crag. Climb to a ledge with a small tree. Move up to place some small wires in a thin crack on the right side of the face, step down and then pull left onto face and climb just left of centre to another ledge. Easier climbing leads to a belay tree.

Photo: Bilbo's Revenge © Phil Murray
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 80 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Nice route although slightly contrived with the right hand crack gear placements. Would be worth some stars without this and with some length.
Robin Woodward - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/15 with Jenny Dart

tobydunford - 2nd β - 09/Jul/15 with Harry Martin

hthom - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/15

Nice moves from the tree.
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Harrison Thom

Deserving of at least * if not **. Lovely route if slightly short.
Bob Peters - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/15

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Feb/15

bonelessivar - Lead rpt - 21/Feb/15 with Tom

brilliant. Well worth a star.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 02/Jan/15 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Urgles - 2nd rpt - 02/Jan/15 with Stanners, Quarryboy

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Dec/14

Spent 20mins cutting back some of the brambles and ivy that had started to re-appear on the arete.
wurzelinzummerset - Lead rpt - 13/Dec/14 with Tom C

JamesRich - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/14 with Sam

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Liam

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/14

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Will Pope

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/14

Urgles - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/14 with Matt

good climb with better holds than it looks
Matthew Martin Wsm - 2nd - 26/Mar/14 with mark

Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/14 with Ian M

Ian Miller - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/14 with Ben Darby

Urgles - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Brian

Getting dark.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/14 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Mar/14

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Mar/14 with Helen S

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 10/Oct/13 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/13 with Alan

mikeychrisbarr - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

Great climbing, good gear
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Geoff Pyatt

would be hard for me to commit on lead.
saraguti - 2nd β - 02/Feb/13 with rick sewards

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 08/Dec/12 with Peter

very nice lower half on fantastic rock with quite a couple of good micro nut placements (but not much else).
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Mike

Enjoyable now I've worked it out! Thin and needs a lot of microwires - I used 5 out of my 7 on my rack. Route spoiled slightly by brambly top part.
Phil Murray - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Tanya

surely worth a star?
kirsten - 2nd - 21/Jul/12 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/12 with Kirsten

Gibbo - 2nd - 10/Jul/12 with Tom Gibbison

On the face, I went up& right, to an edge, cleaned a nut slot of mud & placed a good wire then stepped back on to the face. Good value from there on, with lots of micros generally. Harder for the short (eg. my second). Crux = 5b for them, easily...
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Liz

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 15/May/12 with Alan

It's recently been cleaned. A few thin fun technical moves on the wall.
wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 15/May/12 with Brian

Hidden - TR RP - 13/May/12

Quirina - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with Neil Larsen

Cleaned the top rib. It's now best to finish at a higher tree than the finishing tree of the easier routes to the left; the belay can then be more above the route. This was probably how the route originally finished.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 01/Apr/12 with Shunt

beetleb00 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

bonelessivar - 2nd O/S - Mar/11

mandy - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with rick

31770 - 2011

Hidden - Solo dnf - 10/Oct/10

Nice moves, nice lead from Andy. Take your tiny nuts!
Bobling - 2nd - 18/Aug/10 with Andy again

Bomber Wallnut 1 just where you need it on the technical wall.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/10 with Clare

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 24/May/10 with Mark

harry40740 - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/09

Nice moves on the face - found them hard to work out and persuade myself to go for it, but easy enough in the actual execution... The harder moves are a little bold with the poor gear. Upper rib is as overgrown and dirty as it looks...
Ewan Richards - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Piotr

really hard and scairy
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Dave Elder

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09

Came back with a set of mico's (thanks liz) :-)... Lovely moves on the blank face, loved it.
nblackbeard - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/09 with Tom Grant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/08

Elvis was definatly at the crag today!
KarlH - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Gemma

Zygoticgema - 2nd β - 11/May/08 with KarlH

babymoac - Lead - 26/Apr/08 with Paul Bolton

thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Toby, Matt

mattf77 - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with toby+tom

I wouldn't have minded a few micros on my rack. The moves up the slab are quite thin and unprotected
maresia - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Bernard Stricker

hmm didnt have any micro nuts, went a little to the right and prob missed out the hvs part
nblackbeard - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Jo Bulger

jw231 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with nblackbeard

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/07

Nice technical moves up the smooth wall.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/07 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 29/Oct/06 with Doug Hamilton

We undertook a little detour right into the ivy whre there were bigger holds and a bit more gear. This did avoid most of the nice looking face...
Paz - 2nd β - 14/Oct/06 with SI

RedFox - Lead - 14/Oct/06 with Paz

sam coward - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Andy

beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2006 with Lawrence Friell

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/05

First HVS! Although Tom lead the first half
riddle - Lead dog - Mar/04 with Tom Elliot

ericinbristol - Lead O/S - May/03 with Steve

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/99

jim_randell - 2nd O/S - 14/May/94 with MB

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WillAndrew, badgerjockey, decoderdan, explodingsprouts

Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard E10 of 17
E10 of 17
easy E11 of 17
hard HVS3 of 17
HVS12 of 17
easy HVS1 of 17
hard VS0 of 17
VS0 of 17
easy VS0 of 17
hard 5b0 of 16
5b0 of 16
easy 5b6 of 16
hard 5a1 of 16
5a8 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
hard 4c1 of 16
4c0 of 16
easy 4c0 of 16
3 Stars0 of 14
2 Stars2 of 14
1 Star10 of 14
0 Stars2 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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