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Bilbo's Revenge HVS 5a

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[Bilbo's Revenge, 4 kb]20m. Excellent albeit short lived technicalities up the face at the right hand end of the crag. Climb to a ledge with a small tree. Move up to place some small wires in a thin crack on the right side of the face, step down and then pull left onto face and climb just left of centre to another ledge. Easier climbing leads to a belay tree.

Photo: Bilbo's Revenge © Phil Murray
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 64 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Will Pope

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/14

may only be HVS 4c
The Pylon King - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/14 with Matt

good climb with better holds than it looks
bigtimematty - 2nd - 26/Mar/14 with mark

Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/14 with Ian M

Ian Miller - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/14 with Ben Darby

The Pylon King - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Brian

Getting dark.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/14 with Mark

hms - 2nd β - 09/Mar/14 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Mar/14 with Helen S

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 10/Oct/13 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/13 with Alan

mikeychrisbarr - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

Great climbing, good gear
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Geoff Pyatt

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Feb/13

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 08/Dec/12 with Peter

very nice lower half on fantastic rock with quite a couple of good micro nut placements (but not much else).
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Mike

Enjoyable now I've worked it out! Thin and needs a lot of microwires - I used 5 out of my 7 on my rack. Route spoiled slightly by brambly top part.
Phil Murray - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Tanya

surely worth a star?
kirsten - 2nd - 21/Jul/12 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/12 with Kirsten

Gibbo - 2nd - 10/Jul/12 with Tom Gibbison

On the face, I went up& right, to an edge, cleaned a nut slot of mud & placed a good wire then stepped back on to the face. Good value from there on, with lots of micros generally. Harder for the short (eg. my second). Crux = 5b for them, easily...
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Liz

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 15/May/12 with Alan

It's recently been cleaned. A few thin fun technical moves on the wall.
wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 15/May/12 with Brian

Hidden - TR RP - 13/May/12

Quirina - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with Neil Larsen

Cleaned the top rib. It's now best to finish at a higher tree than the finishing tree of the easier routes to the left; the belay can then be more above the route. This was probably how the route originally finished.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 01/Apr/12 with Shunt

beetleb00 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

bonelessivar - 2nd O/S - Mar/11

mandy - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with rick

31770 - 2011

Hidden - Solo dnf - 10/Oct/10

Nice moves, nice lead from Andy. Take your tiny nuts!
Bobling - 2nd - 18/Aug/10 with Andy again

Bomber Wallnut 1 just where you need it on the technical wall.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/10 with Clare

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 24/May/10 with Mark

harry40740 - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/09

Nice moves on the face - found them hard to work out and persuade myself to go for it, but easy enough in the actual execution... The harder moves are a little bold with the poor gear. Upper rib is as overgrown and dirty as it looks...
Ewan Richards - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Piotr

really hard and scairy
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Dave Elder

repeat
evhall - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Will+Helen

Low in grade
evhall - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with SM

Came back with a set of mico's (thanks liz) :-)... Lovely moves on the blank face, loved it.
nblackbeard - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/09 with Tom Grant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/08

Elvis was definatly at the crag today!
KarlH - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Gemma

Zygoticgema - 2nd β - 11/May/08 with KarlH

babymoac - Lead - 26/Apr/08 with Paul Bolton

thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Toby, Matt

mattf77 - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with toby+tom

I wouldn't have minded a few micros on my rack. The moves up the slab are quite thin and unprotected
maresia - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Bernard Stricker

hmm didnt have any micro nuts, went a little to the right and prob missed out the hvs part
nblackbeard - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Jo Bulger

jw231 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with nblackbeard

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/07

Nice technical moves up the smooth wall.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/07 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 29/Oct/06 with Doug Hamilton

We undertook a little detour right into the ivy whre there were bigger holds and a bit more gear. This did avoid most of the nice looking face...
Paz - 2nd β - 14/Oct/06 with SI

RedFox - Lead - 14/Oct/06 with Paz

sam coward - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Andy

mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Lawrence Friell

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/05

First HVS! Although Tom lead the first half
riddle - Lead dog - Mar/04 with Tom Elliot

jim_randell - 2nd O/S - 14/May/94 with MB

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, explodingsprouts

Voting
Total votes cast 31
hard E10 of 11
E10 of 11
easy E10 of 11
hard HVS1 of 11
HVS9 of 11
easy HVS1 of 11
hard VS0 of 11
VS0 of 11
easy VS0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 11
5b0 of 11
easy 5b3 of 11
hard 5a1 of 11
5a6 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
hard 4c1 of 11
4c0 of 11
easy 4c0 of 11
3 Stars0 of 9
2 Stars0 of 9
1 Star7 of 9
0 Stars2 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 64 (1.6%)
Lead37 of 64 (57.8%)
Followed23 of 64 (35.9%)
Toproped2 of 64 (3.1%)
Unknown1 of 64 (1.6%)

'Climbed'12 of 64 (18.8%)
clean O/S33 of 64 (51.6%)
clean β4 of 64 (6.2%)
clean rpt12 of 64 (18.8%)
clean RP1 of 64 (1.6%)
dogged1 of 64 (1.6%)
dnf1 of 64 (1.6%)