3 pitches. Previously VS 4c, now HVS 5b due to rockfall on the first pitch

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs, Sub Extreme South West Sea Stacks, Lundy.


ClimberDateStyle
petecallaghan 07/Sep AltLd O/S

Amazing adventure. We got the tide times right: started 3 hours before dead low. Initially intended to retreat via Hobs Lane, but it looked horrific so we opted for Fifth Appendage instead. This turned out to be wet, and the off-route moves were extremely challenging: some of the hardest moves I've made on trad, made spicier by Scott's warning that the belay was not good so 'dont fall off'

with Scott
Borden 07/Sep AltLd O/S

Great adventure chasing the tides- exited via 'Fifth Appendage'

Georgie25 31/Aug 2nd

With Keith, abbed into beach fine, climbed sea stack fine, abbed off pinnacle ok, pulled rope, wouldn't come! Keith had to prussick up to retrieve ropes whilst I scrambled up the loose chossy slope to avoid incoming tide, got out fine, what an adventure, brilliant!

Keith Swainson 31/Aug Lead O/S

Lead all pitches to race tide.... Jammed rope and a 45m prussick later, still dry! Type 2 fun, great adventure climbing.

with Georgie
Stanners 24/Aug Lead O/S

(p2 and p3 only, avoided P1) not great but had to be done! DEATH descent if ab rope not used ! no idea how we survived. Moronic to deter lower grade climbers from the adventure by giving it HVS 5b..just scramble around the side and avoid the first pitch giving VS 4c.

with Andy G
Geoffers 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tim
cymjt 16/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P3. Grades, lines, pitches, who knows if they're right. It's a good summit though!

with Chris Sutton
Samuel Wainwright 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

An outstanding adventure! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/lundy-lessons-in-adventure.html

with Emma, Fred
climbEdclimb 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with David Mason
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd
guy757 22/Aug/14 -
Big Lee 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Drama on the abseil descent. Anna went first but I was wearing the rack. We had a 70m rope but the ab was closer to 90m. Fortunately Anna maanged to setup some intermediate nut anchors after I lowered some gear to her on a half rope. I strung pitches 1 & 2 together. Wasn't totally clear about where this route went based on the vague CC description. Started via the V-shaped groove with the slim column forming it's right-hand side. Anna led the top pitch up the face.

annak 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
crossdressingrodney 19/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

A bit crappy except for the top pitch, which felt HVS to me (on second).

victim of mathematics 19/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Perhaps the boulders at the start have moved again, as it would currently be easy to scramble up to the start of P2, and the right-most groove is 4b, not 5b. Led this and P3. P2 was worrryingly loose (P1 of White Riot might make a better alternative) and P3 was stout for VS, but a great experience.

Nick Russell 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

The first pitch (as described in 2008 CC guide) is tricky, but not 5b. More like a 5a boulder problem up a groove, protected by a small wire. An awesome route, definitely worth 3 stars!

with Emily
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Headjamm 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S

First pitch climbed White Riot followed by second pitch Devils Chimney.

with Geoffers
Kevster 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 02/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 28/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/06 AltLd
Hidden 07/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Geoffers ?/Aug/06 Lead

White Riot pitch 1, Devils Chimney pitch 2

with Tim
Duncan Hardy 03/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Smith
Neil Ireson 22/Sep/05 AltLd

The boulder has moved from start of the climb so there is now 20ft of unprotected climbing to reach the platform below the cracks. This definitely increases the grade to HVS.

with John
BALD EAGLE 18/Sep/05 Lead
with Jenny Smith
AJM ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
ferdia 03/Sep/04 2nd
with Andrew Wielochowski
Bob M ?/Sep/01 -
with Jill Stevens
Hidden 13/Aug/01 AltLd
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
alan moore ??/2000 -

Great outing. Huge descent to the Tunnels of Lovely and took in a solo of the Needle on the approach. A tough Lundy VS in an amazingly isolated spot. Thankfully easy scramble back to the plateau.

Hidden 16/Sep/99 Lead
WB ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Rock Fairy ??/1999 2nd

Picnic on top

with Carl & Chris
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
pgac 12/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with si bourne
Pete Nugent 31/Aug/96 AltLd

led p.1

with Ian Makin
Hidden 17/Aug/95 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1995 -
colin milton 27/Sep/94 AltLd
with eric milton
mattnuttall ?/Sep/92 AltLd O/S

in the rain I think - otherwise why were we on a VS?

with Alan Holden
Steve Woollard ??/1973 AltLd
with John Barnett, Martin Crocker
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, Matthew Davies, paul79, ReubenS1990, Jon_dL, EcoClimber, Ian Jones, Hidden, Hidden, mullermn, BB1, pc1983, gibsond, Mr Sparkle, 00nip, Hidden
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set