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The Devil's Chimney** HVS 5b

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[The Devil's Chimney, Lundy, 2 kb]3 pitches. Previously VS 4c, now HVS 5b due to rockfall on the first pitch

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs, Sub Extreme South West Sea Stacks.

Photo: The Devil's Chimney, Lundy © Dano
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

P3. Grades, lines, pitches, who knows if they're right. It's a good summit though!
cymjt - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/14 with Chris Sutton

An outstanding adventure! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/lundy-lessons-in-adventure.html
Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Emma, Fred

climbEdclimb - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with David Mason

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/14

guy757 - 22/Aug/14

Drama on the abseil descent. Anna went first but I was wearing the rack. We had a 70m rope but the ab was closer to 90m. Fortunately Anna maanged to setup some intermediate nut anchors after I lowered some gear to her on a half rope. I strung pitches 1 & 2 together. Wasn't totally clear about where this route went based on the vague CC description. Started via the V-shaped groove with the slim column forming it's right-hand side. Anna led the top pitch up the face.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Anna Kennedy

annak - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Lee Harrison

A bit crappy except for the top pitch, which felt HVS to me (on second).
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with victim of mathematics

Perhaps the boulders at the start have moved again, as it would currently be easy to scramble up to the start of P2, and the right-most groove is 4b, not 5b. Led this and P3. P2 was worrryingly loose (P1 of White Riot might make a better alternative) and P3 was stout for VS, but a great experience.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with crossdressingrodney

The first pitch (as described in 2008 CC guide) is tricky, but not 5b. More like a 5a boulder problem up a groove, protected by a small wire. An awesome route, definitely worth 3 stars!
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/12

First pitch climbed White Riot followed by second pitch Devils Chimney.
Headjamm - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Geoffers

Kevster - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11

Paul Eckton - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/07

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/06

White Riot pitch 1, Devils Chimney pitch 2
Geoffers - Lead - Aug/06 with Tim

Duncan Hardy - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/06 with Paul Smith

The boulder has moved from start of the climb so there is now 20ft of unprotected climbing to reach the platform below the cracks. This definitely increases the grade to HVS.
Neil Ireson - AltLd - 22/Sep/05 with John

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 18/Sep/05 with Jenny Smith

AJM - AltLd O/S - Sep/05 with Stuart Fox

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/05

ferdia - 2nd - 03/Sep/04 with Andrew Wielochowski

Hidden - Sep/01

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

alan moore - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/99

WB - AltLd O/S - Sep/99 with Guy

Picnic on top
Rock Fairy - 2nd - 1999 with Carl & Chris

Hidden - Lead - 1998

pgac - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/97 with si bourne

led p.1
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 31/Aug/96 with Ian Makin

Steve Lenartowicz - 1995

colin milton - AltLd - 27/Sep/94 with eric milton

in the rain I think - otherwise why were we on a VS?
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - Sep/92 with Alan Holden

Steve Woollard - AltLd - 1973 with John Barnett, Martin Crocker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JonmapDL, EcoClimber, Ian Jones, Hidden, Hidden, mullermn, BB1, pc1983, gibsond, Mr Sparkle, 00nip, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 20
hard E10 of 6
E10 of 6
easy E11 of 6
hard HVS0 of 6
HVS1 of 6
easy HVS1 of 6
hard VS1 of 6
VS2 of 6
easy VS0 of 6
hard 5c0 of 6
5c0 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
hard 5b0 of 6
5b1 of 6
easy 5b0 of 6
hard 5a3 of 6
5a1 of 6
easy 5a1 of 6
3 Stars3 of 8
2 Stars4 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars1 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Lead9 of 41 (22.0%)
Followed6 of 41 (14.6%)
Alt Leads21 of 41 (51.2%)
Unknown5 of 41 (12.2%)

'Climbed'21 of 41 (51.2%)
clean O/S20 of 41 (48.8%)