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Cascades de Lillaz*** WI3+

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Chandelle de Lillaz >>
[2nd Pitch, 2 kb]5 pitches. One of the most well known and busy waterfalls in Italy! The start can be WI 4 but is usually climbed out with stairs to the top. The second pitch is a short section with a gaping hole in the ice at the bottom. From the second pitch to the last three pitches is a 10 minute walk up along the creek bed. The last three pitches are usually fat and to descend you walk off on the left side at the top of the last pitch. Beware the sluice at the very top which can release huge amounts of freezing water onto the route with no warning!

Photo: 2nd Pitch © Tim Bateman
View all 22 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 230 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

soloed last pitch
cmaradcliffe - AltLd - 01/Mar/14

paulmck - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Rich

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/14

Lead first pitch and the long penultimate pitch.
neilwiltshire - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/14 with Paul Mckenzie

always a pleasure.
ruaidh - AltLd - 13/Feb/14 with Ted

paulmck - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/14 with Neil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/14

Lead P1 and P4. Also used as practice venue on 6 (P1) and 10 (P3) Feb.
AndrewP - AltLd - 08/Feb/14 with Paul Griffiths

Climbed full route then descended to bottom to re-climb the first pitch the steep way. Very busy on the route but still very enjoyable.
michaelmurray - 2nd - 08/Feb/14 with Ray Birch, James

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Feb/14

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Feb/14

Pitches 1- 6 The ice had degraded considerably. Huge chunk of the 1st pitch (which was thin anyway) had fallen in. Much busier start, but the crowds soon thinned after 2nd pitch. The 5th Pitch was short, but committing and vertical. Really enjoyable.
Cherish - 2nd O/S - 05/Feb/14 with Chris Hammick

Missed P1 because the ice looked poor, was actually ok and some of the others went back later to do it
Stroppy - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/14 with Rob Thomas, Tom Bushell

Snow Gully, P2,P3,P4,P5, chat with some english people at the top.... oh go on then lets do P1! WI4 on the day due to large amount of liquid ice.
Sam Husband - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/14 with Ollie Willmot

gjd - 2nd - 04/Feb/14 with Mapleleaf

Pitches 1 - 4. A really beautiful day. Difficult to do anything else as most places were high avalanche risk. Ice solid, my technique came along a little, but the pockets made it much easier going.
Cherish - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/14 with Chris Hammick

giuly - 2nd - 02/Feb/14 with Federico Camangi

Hidden - Feb/14

Tim Bateman - Lead - 16/Jan/14 with Jamie, Alistair Crawford, Nick Beale

Ben Watts - TR - 13/Jan/14 with Andy Owen BMG, Phil Knight, Louise Grimster

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/14

Hidden - 01/Jan/14

katz - AltLd - Jan/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Dec/13

First on the route to avoid the crowds. Running water on a large section of first pitch, although still perfectly climbable. Right-hand start to the first pitch. Upper section of initial icefall looked wet/brittle so moved across to the central part. Good ice conditions, although thin/wet in places.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Anna Kennedy

annak - 2nd - 29/Dec/13 with Lee Harrison

David Kay - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Moritz Lesserman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/13

Part of a 3 day ice climbing course with Chamonix Experience - fantastic!
Rob Royle - TR - 23/Dec/13 with Mountain Guide, Steph

Misha - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/13 with Nic, David

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/13

keithlambley - Lead - 22/Dec/13 with Kate R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/13

Only pitches 3 + 4 as the rest was wet and thin
cmaradcliffe - Lead - 21/Dec/13

Part of a 3 day ice climbing course with Chamonix Experience - fantastic!
Rob Royle - TR - 21/Dec/13 with Mountain Guide, Steph

Lead long third pitch then had to come off top of route not in
crabtreer - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/13

crabtreer - AltLd - 05/Mar/13 with Colin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/13

First attempt: sluice opened (hint: you do not want to be on this route when the sluice opens). Second attempt: cracked off bits of tooth with adze.
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/13

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Tom Skelhon

First route in ice. Awesome! Took all the steepest bits we could find.
matthewjames - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Jack Symmons, Glynn hudson, Tom Skelhon

Awesome route, was almost too hot climbing in the sun all day. Lead pitch 2, first ice lead :)
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Frank, Olli Crudge

Warm in the sun, surface of ice was very soft/mushy. Frank lead 1, Rachel lead 2, I was half way up pitch 3 when something above released a load of water down the pitch! Not knowing when the torrent was going to end I down climbed to the belay and scuttled back to the sunshine to warm up. Finished the climb as the sun set.
Olli-C - AltLd - 19/Feb/13 with Frank, Rachel Slater

Happy Haggis - 2nd - 14/Feb/13 with Hugh Robinson

Did all 5 pitches this time, totally different than last time. Great route
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/13 with Debbie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/13

First time ice climbing - incredible.
Happy Haggis - AltLd - 10/Feb/13 with Hugh Robinson

Robbo1 - AltLd - 10/Feb/13 with Jen Robinson

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Feb/13

Claimed the RH slope on the upper tier this time
John Roe - AltLd - 04/Feb/13 with Ian (Jugs) Jones

RandomHero - AltLd - 03/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13

Just the first pitch, did a steeper version with some overhang, wich was fun.
alpinestar_no1 - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/13

Wonderfull climb. Lead all 5 pitches, did left hand start. Crux was pitch 3.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Feb/13 with Rob

muzz44 - AltLd O/S - Feb/13 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jan/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/13

First propper ice lead (yesterday's was very easy). P1 got interesting towards the top and I felt intimidated. Brilliant route, brilliant day, maybe best ever climbing day.
puppythedog - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/13

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jan/13

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/13

razzorbuzz - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/13 with Andy Elliot

Great route, climbed left hand finish for one pitch then abbed off because it was dripping
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/13 with Tom Woodstone

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/13

Tim Bateman - Lead - 11/Jan/13 with Jamie, Nick Horton, George Bird

Very thin conditions, making the right-hand start (II,4) particularly scary at the top: steep and suspect ice with a waterfall rushing past your ear! Did P1-4 then mixed traverse off left, as rest of top slab looked ready to slide off. Took an impressive whipper on P4 when axe ripped. First fall onto an ice screw. Led P2&4.
Andy Clarke - AltLd dog - 08/Jan/13 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jan/13

jonathan watt - 04/Jan/13

Hidden - Solo RP - 03/Jan/13

hamishjfk - Jan/13 with Dave Connelly, Andy Wilson

RocKalina - AltLd - Jan/13 with Andyclimb

With Isabelle and Tim
AdamCB - 2nd - Jan/13

Hidden - 2013

cmaradcliffe - 2nd O/S - 18/Dec/12

Last 2 pitches only
clams - 2nd - Dec/12 with Jim + Toby

only had time for first to pitch, be foe darkness great fun with water running behind ice coloum.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/12 with Jim Griffiths

Making the most of the day having spent the morning and early afternoon getting Jocky to the dentist for emergency treatment. Led the pitches that I was 2nd on the previous visit.
John Roe - AltLd - 13/Feb/12 with Adam Davis

A circus arrived just after we finished the first pitch...
Fultonius - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Swedish Kim

John Roe - AltLd - 07/Feb/12 with Adam Davis, Iain (Jocky) Marr

smudge - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/12 with Rob

Backed off last pitch as was too wet. Nice climb - we picked the right time as there was a circus of people starting the route when we descended!
BelayBunney - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/12 with Lorna, Catherine, Francois

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Feb/12

Did pitch 3 then played on the steep left hand section.
trish1968 - 2nd dnf - 01/Feb/12 with Nick Bennett

Probably the best time i've had climbing, such a blast and a great route, perfect condition. Climbing in t-shirts in bright blue skies.
Sianny - 2nd O/S - Feb/12 with steve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jan/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/12

Great climb but first pitch wasn't in good shape due to recent thaw
Andre Clarke - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/12 with Weagie

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jan/12

Did pitch 1 and 2 fell on first pitch. Pitch 3 mega busy with top ropers so saved it for another day.
trish1968 - 2nd dnf - 29/Jan/12 with Nick Bennett

Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Patrick, Trevor, Gavin

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jan/12

Ly-Cilph - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Trevor W (PCC)

georgec - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Clare, Sandra K

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jan/12

industrialiceman - 27/Jan/12

atch - 26/Jan/12

Back to do the while route Chris lead the first I lead the second third and fifth now lead all but the first
parksy986 - AltLd - 23/Jan/12 with chris dovey

Soloed pitch 2 and 4.
Eddie1234 - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/12 with Jonny Armstrong, Steve Drake

Started the first pitch It was very thin so backed off Chris picked up the second, third had loads of top roppers so walked round I lead the forth Chris the fifth a good day out
parksy986 - AltLd - 22/Jan/12 with chris dovey

Chris Dovey - Lead - 22/Jan/12 with Luke Parkes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/12

Claire Molloy - 2nd - 14/Jan/12 with Andy Perkins, Noelle

NoelleG - 2nd - 14/Jan/12 with Claire Molloy

Tim Bateman - Lead - 12/Jan/12

mike.moss - Solo O/S - 12/Jan/12

Steve Kempley - AltLd - 12/Jan/12 with Gus

Classic day out!
Karl Wooffindin - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/12 with Sam Read, Bryce Rigler

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/12

John Carney - Lead O/S - 04/Jan/12 with Brooke Borden, David Linton

Hidden - Lead - Jan/12

Hidden - Lead - Jan/12

Omitted first two pitches - melting. Hoping to do the long left hand finish this time, but it had turned into a rock climb!
Rog Wilko - Lead - 17/Feb/11 with Debbie Wilkinson

bsavage - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/11 with Jeremy Savage

Hidden - Lead - 11/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Feb/11

first (hard) pitch not formed so soloed up to after the big hole. Nice warm up route for the holidays.
smithaldo - AltLd - 05/Feb/11 with mark j

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/11

twoplates - AltLd - 02/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Feb/11

andy mcc - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/11 with Jason King

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Jez

Jez - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Maybe_Si

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/11

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jan/11

stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/11 with Rhys

Rhys Macallister - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/11 with stuart

1st pitch a grade harder.
steven - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Dave Ryder

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jan/11

Mike Hall - 2nd - 23/Jan/11 with Gerard

johnmctighe - 2nd O/S - 18/Jan/11

Avoided first pitch as the top was detached and it all looked really dangerous. Lots of thin ice and lots of water in 2nd pitch which made it great fun The rest was easy, but nice atmosphere... finished by lunchtime and time for an afternoon of messing around elsewhere.
andybuckley - AltLd - 16/Jan/11 with Tom Whipple

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jan/11

LardClimber - Jan/11 with Phil Belcher

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/11

Hidden - Jan/11

Seymore Butt - 2011

Lead the second pitch
Rachael Ashdown - AltLd - 05/Mar/10

Gustav - AltLd rpt - 20/Feb/10 with Niall Dickson, James H

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 20/Feb/10

petellis - 2nd - 17/Feb/10 with Em, Aly

Ally Smith - Lead - 15/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Feb/10

Great route though was a bit warm when we got to the top two pitches and the snow was mostly slush
Hannes - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/10

yet again.
ruaidh - Lead - 06/Feb/10 with Baz

markvader - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Feb/10

nukebat - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/10 with Colin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/10

Topper Harley - AltLd - Feb/10

garethMottram - AltLd O/S - Feb/10 with Hannes

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/10

We started before dawn in the night. I lead the first pitch by headlamp on the steepest line (WI4 in the guidebook), which went CRRRUHH, with me on it! A hasty exit to easier ground and all was well!
Charlie Evans - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/10 with Colin Thornton

Up to the third headwall. Left branch start (WI2)
francois - Lead - 24/Jan/10 with Lorna

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jan/10

Tim Bateman - Lead - 16/Jan/10 with George Bird

HamishD - AltLd O/S - Dec/09 with sergei

When the sun came out, it was very hot day. Nice blue sky and white snow and ice. Ice was melting a touch in the sun. Lots of snowshoers passing by to take pictures.
Skinny Kin - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/09 with Piotr Bamberski, John Flitcroft

Repeat of last year. last pitch very thin and brittle. Feeling very uncomfortable watching water through about 5mm of clear ice when suddenly three German Alpine guides solo past me at speed. The last fella only had one axe ?!
ruaidh - Lead β - 01/Mar/09 with Ant

Led all 5 pitches, my first real ice climb. Brilliant fun (last pitch was more of a slush scrabble than an ice climb though...)
groovy_nut - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/09 with Patrick

Breathtakingly beautiful
AngusB - 2nd O/S - 22/Feb/09 with RoryG

Classic route, taking a lovely, scenic line up the valley. Perfect ice climbing really - short walk in, in the sun all afternoon (started at 1pm!) and soft ice. Did the right version at the bottom (easy WI4) and a nice pillar on pitch 3. Thoroughly recommended....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/09 with Emily

jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 18/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/09

Very nice. Led P1 (easy as stepped out), 3 (climbing on holes in an ice shell and belaying on a pipe) and 4, didn't bother with 5.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/09

Best climbed on a working day to avoid hords of locals
MD - AltLd - 09/Feb/09 with Misha

glaramara - AltLd - 01/Feb/09 with jules hearn

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Feb/09 with A Hird

industrialiceman - 2nd - 31/Jan/09

machars - Lead rpt - 23/Jan/09 with James

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jan/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/09

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/09 with Steve Grove

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 17/Jan/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 05/Jan/09

chris.mac - 2009

Trobbo - 2nd - 05/Feb/08 with Ali Welsh

Trobbo - 2nd O/S - 05/Feb/08 with Ali Welsh

brockers - Feb/08 with CarlZ

existing debt - 2nd - 28/Jan/08 with Iain a

Celebrated my birthday in style.
gingernick - AltLd - 22/Jan/08 with Chris Guest

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jan/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/08

Tim Bateman - Lead - 14/Jan/08 with Nick Beale

Tim Bateman - Lead - 12/Jan/08 with George Bird

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 11/Jan/08 with George Bird

perranman - 2008 with azzy

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jan/07

Fine, sunny, -12C start but warmed up later. Excellent ice pitches.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/06 with SteveM

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/06

machars - 2nd - 10/Feb/06 with Neil

McGus - Lead - 07/Feb/06 with Nick Brook

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/06

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jan/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/06

Walked off after 3 pitches - too many other parties on the route
Robbie H - Lead rpt - 16/Jan/06 with Ruth Hogger

Climbing in parallel with Simon and Helene
Robbie H - Lead - 07/Jan/06 with Sabine Hanciaux

Hidden - Solo - Jan/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/05

First encounter with proper ice climbing: what a luxury compared to Scotland. Almost too luxurious...
sebastien - AltLd - Feb/05 with Malcolm Mc.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/05

Gustav - AltLd O/S - Feb/05 with James 1

machars - 2nd - 25/Jan/05 with Jim

gully 1st pitch and 2nd pitch only
Allan Young - Solo O/S - 19/Jan/05

To my first winter fall whilst dry tooling to get to the start of the 1st pitch. Managed the traverse then fell off the easy ground into the pond!
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Neil Mathews

Daniel Wrightson - AltLd O/S - Mar/04 with riccardo corbini

kerry cooper - 2nd - Feb/04

pitches 2, then 3, then 4, then abseil to climb 1st pitch
Allan Young - 2nd β - 23/Jan/04 with Phil Spick

The Bad Cough - Lead rpt - 23/Jan/04 with Barry Cubbins

Gully 1st pitch and 2nd pitch only
Allan Young - Solo O/S - 21/Jan/04

Hidden - 19/Jan/04

peterbeaumont - 2004

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2004

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 09/Jan/02 with Barry Cubbins, Andy Perkins

liz j - 2nd - Jan/02 with neil brodie

Hidden - Feb/00

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Andre Clarke, Andy White, innesmac, Hidden, tdudley, dez, apeman241

Voting
Total votes cast 52
hard WI40 of 22
WI40 of 22
easy WI40 of 22
hard WI3+0 of 22
WI3+5 of 22
easy WI3+13 of 22
hard WI34 of 22
WI30 of 22
easy WI30 of 22
3 Stars28 of 30
2 Stars1 of 30
1 Star1 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 230 (2.2%)
Lead41 of 230 (17.8%)
Followed47 of 230 (20.4%)
Toproped3 of 230 (1.3%)
Alt Leads118 of 230 (51.3%)
Unknown16 of 230 (7.0%)

'Climbed'106 of 230 (46.1%)
clean O/S109 of 230 (47.4%)
clean β2 of 230 (0.9%)
clean rpt7 of 230 (3.0%)
clean RP1 of 230 (0.4%)
dogged1 of 230 (0.4%)
dnf4 of 230 (1.7%)