UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
17m. A very good link up which starts at Nelson Mandela, then crosses East of Sweden to finish up Blabba Mouth taking the cruxes of each route one after the other. Start up Nelson Mandela and climb the lower half to the break. Make a move up to the big shared hold of East of Sweden. Then begin the tricky move up the steep shallow groove to good holds just above the bolt. Now step right to gain a big spike side pull on Blabba Mouth and continue up this passing some perplexing moves on small sloping edges.

Additional info:
Clip first 3 on Nelson. Clip one on East of Sweden then use bolts on Blabba Mouth to lower off - it's not too hard to work out. I hope.

A Harper 21/Sep/2012.

Ticklists

Ban-y-Gor Master , Bristol Bangers , Road to f7c - Wye Valley , 7Cs with stars near Bristol

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction

Grade: 7c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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