65m, 3 pitches.
5c+, 6a, 5c. The bolting is not as bad as the SAC jura bernois would suggest, but medium cams will be useful, mainly on the first pitch. The rock is not bombproof everywhere but is also not so bad either.
The two belays on the route are equipped for abseil but from the top of the route one would have to leave a sling on a tree. The steep descent gully is also not so bad as the SAC jura bernois would suggest, approach shoes recommended for this though. The first steep slope to the right of the top of the route is not the correct gully, being fairly obviously too steep. The correct gully is just a few meters further on, wide at the top and narrowing lower down.
A worthwhile outing and can be combined with a route on the lower butresses.
Bird ban from 1st March to the end of June.
The two belays on the route are equipped for abseil but from the top of the route one would have to leave a sling on a tree. The steep descent gully is also not so bad as the SAC jura bernois would suggest, approach shoes recommended for this though. The first steep slope to the right of the top of the route is not the correct gully, being fairly obviously too steep. The correct gully is just a few meters further on, wide at the top and narrowing lower down.
A worthwhile outing and can be combined with a route on the lower butresses.
Bird ban from 1st March to the end of June.
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Route of Interest
Bügeleisen
Grade: 6a ***
(Bügeleisen)