Rockfax Description
A legendary Culm Coast line that just about stays free enough of vegetation in its upper third to retain its status. The climbing is extremely sustained and the positions are fly-on-the-wall like.
Start below the thin crack-system that shoots up to a stuck-on pancake of rock high up near the right arete.
Gain a ledge at 3m from the right. From the left end of the ledge, climb the thin crack, past a peg, to better holds and gear. Continue up the crack before stepping right to another crack just below the pancake. Pass the pancake on its left side and continue directly up the wall on good, but spaced holds to the top. The original finish stepped right onto the top of the pancake and finished up the arete. Both finishes are vegetated. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A difficult start to the peg (a friend just above Will suffice - may have to do in stages). Climb the crack using nice finger and toe jams and then veer right to base of pancake. Pull (with care - loose) on arete to an easy but atmospheric finish. Sling belay around rock pinnacles further back. Full rope length abseil required after on old slings, rope and crabs but ok (at least as of sept 07)

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Phileas Fauntleroy 10/Oct Lead O/S

Bloody good route in a remote setting. Bit green at the top but all there. Lifted out my 'bomber' and only nut when clipping the peg which shook me as the peg is less than mint.. Loved it :-)

Skip 03/Oct 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct 2nd rpt
Jelly Mould Surfer 13/Sep Lead rpt

A route I've been after since 1991 - E1 5b.

alan moore 08/Aug -

What it says on the tin...Culm Coast Classic; quietly crumbling and happily deserted.

with Dad
NickJH 25/Jul 2nd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
ferdia 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Misha, Andrew Wilson
Misha 19/Jul 2nd O/S

The crux features a couple of thin moves on so-so gear (the peg is old and the back up is a micro cam). Easier above with the odd harder move. From the bottom it looks vegetated at the top but it's ok. Fun route to second and plenty of it - 45m. How on earth is that pancake still hanging on?! Added some new ab tat (offcut of my old half rope) and cut away the worst of the manky old stuff.

Andrew Wilson 19/Jul 2nd O/S
SurferStan 17/Jul 2nd O/S
with Dilwat
Dilwat 17/Jul Lead O/S

Great climbing all the way through. The moves past the peg need some commitment. The arete is a less vegetated finish but needs treating with care.

dready 04/Jul Lead O/S

Nice E1 to the peg then steady hvs climbing, such a classic!

whiteexplorer 04/Jul 2nd O/S
with joe
Hidden 20/Jun 2nd
Mark Kemball 20/Jun Lead
alice fuller 19/Jun 2nd O/S

Backed off lead - didn't even get to the peg. Too intimidating and not sure that i have the gear skills. Pete cruised it.

Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
tash 07/Jun 2nd
with ali k
adam 24 12/Apr 2nd O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 12/Apr Lead O/S
Samuel Wainwright 07/Mar 2nd O/S

Great route!

with Mike
kingholmesy ??/2015 2nd O/S
with Colin
petecallaghan 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Lots of gear: I ran out of extenders. Once past the peg the gear improves.

with Tom Bennachio, Scott Borden
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Lead
crater 08/Sep/14 2nd
with steve
Hidden 29/Jul/14 Lead
Sean Kelly 22/Jun/14 2nd

3* classic route that keeps up the interest to the end. Great lead Chris, as I was watching the tide creeping slowly in! Middle section is a romp. E1,5b is about right.

with Chris Ebbutt
chris ebbutt 22/Jun/14 Lead

Fantastic climb, huge wall of north facing Culm at its sustained and intimidating best. Goes into my S.W. all time top 10! Very clean climbing no vegetation or loose rock.

with Sean
timdi 08/Jun/14 Lead

arff arff arff arff what a route.

andy_pemberton 14/Apr/14 2nd

Given a bit of a garden.

with Steve Gibson
Hidden 17/Nov/13 2nd
George.Rowland 07/Sep/13 2nd

excellent adventure with the traverse variation start and ridge scramble off. definitely 3 stars! Edge of the Pancake and the arete at the top need treating with care!

Bob Peters 07/Sep/13 2nd
Matthew Robinson 18/Jul/13 Lead
with Luke S
stuart34 04/May/13 2nd
Jelly Mould Surfer 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Definitely E1, and solidly so.

burto 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with jerome
JeromeT 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ian
Becky E 13/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Stunning pitch, but clearly E1, had to climb the arÍte for a few moves above the pancake to avoid solid vegetation. Epic walk out in the dark and rain (had to start very late due to tides) :)

with Becky E
Joel Perkin 06/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Think it definitely gets it's E1 status, much harder than the other E1's I've seconded and Simon agrees. Second time Simon's climbed it and he's found the best way to set up a belay is to lead, pull through the rope, throw it over the back of the fin and tie to a 50m abseil rope and tie to boulders on the beach below, then pull it all back over the top. Makes it a bit more scary for the second but safer, plus easier to abseil then pull it back through.

with Simon Hammond
Hidden 25/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead
robbie Warke 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Great climb, very misty today and very atmospheric! E1 me thinks and good value

with Jamie Parfrey
Hidden 29/Sep/11 2nd
Tim M 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Hard move going past the peg; everything else ok

with Emma
climbergg 30/Jul/11 Lead
berry 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Rick, Kafoozalem
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/Jul/11 Lead

very good sustained slab climbing

with Andy March
rockjedi12345 07/May/11 Lead dnf

I will be back

Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead


with Laura
Mark Kemball 06/Mar/11 2nd
with Stu Bradbury, Nic Dill
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Chad123 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

HVS 5b, or easy E1, it's long and sustained but only one tricky section low down, top arete is also the best finish but a little loose in places....also worth it's three stars....

with Sam
sgl 11/Aug/10 Lead
with chad
Bristoldave 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

took the rather cleaner arete at the top. Cool route

jon bradley 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Awesome route. Wish I'd led it.

with Huw Howells
chris j 22/Aug/09 2nd

Good route. Interesting approach - shale scree and shoulder high gorse/nettles & bracken. Bit grassy high up the route. Tat at the top was good.

with Doug
Mr Tickle 24/May/09 Lead O/S

great adventure. Brilliant climb. Well worth the effort getting there

with davenev
davenev 24/May/09 2nd dog

Scree scramble descent - must be easier to walk in along beach if tide permits. Long sustained route but pretty awesome climbing

with luke
manwithacam 25/Apr/09 Lead

The descent to the rock is hairy esp if one goes off course. The climb is excellent, the crux goes ok but the sequence needs thought

with Martin M
sebrider 17/Apr/09 Lead O/S

very nice route. long, relatively sustained,great moves, clum classic:)

with Eugene
Hidden 29/Mar/09 TR
crobinson 03/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Tom Last
Tom Last 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S

What a day out, brilliant!

with Chester
chris sm 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Marti999 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Toby Keep
mick1jones 16/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Fantastic big slab climb

with Chris Dale
Dale ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S

thouht 5b. gr8 route and adventure. bit loose at top. Micks first route with me he loved it. the abb of the back is interesting.

with johny mick
riddle ?/Jul/07 2nd

tough walk in, easier to get out. great climb though.

with Chris and Mike LMC
Hidden 22/May/07 Lead O/S
Urgles 13/May/06 Lead O/S
with Ady Short
TobyA 05/Oct/04 2nd O/S
with TobyFK
goi.ashmore 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
bullybones ??/2000 -
colin milton 25/May/96 Lead O/S
with eric milton
Mark Kemball ??/1995 AltLd
with Matt Vigg, Lee Bartrop
Nigel Coe ??/1993 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Cheese Monkey, Hidden, Hidden, Lee_Meaden, alexjz, Hidden, Ragingpossum, Graham H, Popkids, Mike W, Hidden, Rassapotimus, RFWilkie, rockpool, kim.mulji, Alex the Alex, Neil Watson, Hidden, James Oswald, Hidden, Motown, Master Chief, AJH, The Ivanator, oscaig, Legs, Owen W-G, Ybot Htulk, Dan Lane, Ian Jones, Hidden, Danhan, erinbastian, Dr Caterpillar, Ropeboy
High E2
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High HVS
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High 5c
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