Matchless*** HVS 5a
[Big wall matchless E1 5b Oldwalls Point Cornwall, 1 kb]A difficult start to the peg (a friend just above Will suffice - may have to do in stages). Climb the crack using nice finger and toe jams and then veer right to base of pancake. Pull (with care - loose) on arete to an easy but atmospheric finish. Sling belay around rock pinnacles further back. Full rope length abseil required after on old slings, rope and crabs but ok (at least as of sept 07)

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: Big wall matchless E1 5b Oldwalls Point Cornwall © mick1jones
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This climb is in 67 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Nice E1 to the peg then steady hvs climbing, such a classic!
dready - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with whiteexplorer

whiteexplorer - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with joe

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/15

Mark Kemball - Lead - 20/Jun/15 with Gareth Palmer

Backed off lead - didn't even get to the peg. Too intimidating and not sure that i have the gear skills. Pete cruised it.
alice fuller - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/15 with kafoozalem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15

tash - 2nd - 07/Jun/15 with ali k

adam 24 - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/15 with Caroline

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/15

Lots of gear: I ran out of extenders. Once past the peg the gear improves.
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/14 with Tom Bennachio, Scott Borden

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/14

crater - 2nd - 08/Sep/14 with steve

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/14

3* classic route that keeps up the interest to the end. Great lead Chris, as I was watching the tide creeping slowly in! Middle section is a romp. E1,5b is about right.
Sean Kelly - 2nd - 22/Jun/14 with Chris Ebbutt

Fantastic climb, huge wall of north facing Culm at its sustained and intimidating best. Goes into my S.W. all time top 10! Very clean climbing no vegetation or loose rock.
chris ebbutt - Lead - 22/Jun/14 with Sean

arff arff arff arff what a route.
timdi - Lead - 08/Jun/14

Given a bit of a garden.
andy_pemberton - 2nd - 14/Apr/14 with Steve Gibson

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Nov/13

excellent adventure with the traverse variation start and ridge scramble off. definitely 3 stars! Edge of the Pancake and the arete at the top need treating with care!
George.Rowland - 2nd - 07/Sep/13 with Bob Peters, Daisy peters, Iain Peters

Bob Peters - 2nd - 07/Sep/13

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 18/Jul/13 with Luke S

stuart34 - 2nd - 04/May/13

Definitely E1, and solidly so.
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12

burto - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with jerome

JeromeT - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Ian

Becky E - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Graeme Hammond

Stunning pitch, but clearly E1, had to climb the arÍte for a few moves above the pancake to avoid solid vegetation. Epic walk out in the dark and rain (had to start very late due to tides) :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Becky E

Think it definitely gets it's E1 status, much harder than the other E1's I've seconded and Simon agrees. Second time Simon's climbed it and he's found the best way to set up a belay is to lead, pull through the rope, throw it over the back of the fin and tie to a 50m abseil rope and tie to boulders on the beach below, then pull it all back over the top. Makes it a bit more scary for the second but safer, plus easier to abseil then pull it back through.
Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/12 with Simon Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

Great climb, very misty today and very atmospheric! E1 me thinks and good value
robbie Warke - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Jamie Parfrey

Good lead by Val. Fail on More Than A Match after - very greasy start
steveb2006 - 2nd - 29/Sep/11 with Valerie Partington

Hard move going past the peg; everything else ok
Tim M - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Emma

climbergg - Lead - 30/Jul/11 with cheesesarnie

berry - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Rick, Kafoozalem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

very good sustained slab climbing
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/11 with Andy March

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/May/11

Nick Wallis - Lead - May/11 with Laura

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with Stu Bradbury, Nic Dill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

HVS 5b, or easy E1, it's long and sustained but only one tricky section low down, top arete is also the best finish but a little loose in places....also worth it's three stars....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Sam

sgl - Lead - 11/Aug/10 with chad

took the rather cleaner arete at the top. Cool route
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with CarolineH

Awesome route. Wish I'd led it.
jon bradley - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Huw Howells

Good route. Interesting approach - shale scree and shoulder high gorse/nettles & bracken. Bit grassy high up the route. Tat at the top was good.
chris j - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with Doug

great adventure. Brilliant climb. Well worth the effort getting there
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with davenev

Scree scramble descent - must be easier to walk in along beach if tide permits. Long sustained route but pretty awesome climbing
davenev - 2nd dog - 24/May/09 with luke

The descent to the rock is hairy esp if one goes off course. The climb is excellent, the crux goes ok but the sequence needs thought
manwithacam - Lead - 25/Apr/09 with Martin M

very nice route. long, relatively sustained,great moves, clum classic:)
sebrider - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/09 with Eugene

Hidden - TR - 29/Mar/09

crobinson - 2nd O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Tom Last

What a day out, brilliant!
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Chester

chris sm - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Pippa Froggatt

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 08/May/08 with Toby Keep

Fantastic big slab climb
mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Chris Dale

thouht 5b. gr8 route and adventure. bit loose at top. Micks first route with me he loved it. the abb of the back is interesting.
Dale - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with johny mick

tough walk in, easier to get out. great climb though.
riddle - 2nd - Jul/07 with Chris and Mike LMC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/07

Pylon King Against Capit@lism - Lead O/S - 13/May/06 with Ady Short

TobyA - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/04 with TobyFK

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/03 with James Tracey

bullybones - 2000

colin milton - Lead O/S - 25/May/96 with eric milton

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 1995 with Matt Vigg, Lee Bartrop

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1993 with Don Sargeant

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lee_Meaden, alexjz, Ragingpossum, Graham H, Popkids, Mike W, Rassapotimus, RFWilkie, rockpool, kim.mulji, Alex the Alex, Neil Watson, James Oswald, Motown, Master Chief, AJH, The Ivanator, oscaig, Legs, Owen W-G, Ybot Htulk, Dan Lane, Ian Jones, Danhan, erinbastian, Dr Caterpillar, Ropeboy

Total votes cast 112
hard E10 of 40
E17 of 40
easy E124 of 40
hard HVS5 of 40
HVS4 of 40
easy HVS0 of 40
hard VS0 of 40
VS0 of 40
easy VS0 of 40
hard 5b0 of 39
5b5 of 39
easy 5b27 of 39
hard 5a3 of 39
5a4 of 39
easy 5a0 of 39
hard 4c0 of 39
4c0 of 39
easy 4c0 of 39
3 Stars31 of 33
2 Stars2 of 33
1 Star0 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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