A legendary Culm Coast line that just about stays free enough of vegetation in its upper third to retain its status. The climbing is extremely sustained and the positions are fly-on-the-wall like.Start below the thin crack-system that shoots up to a stuck-on pancake of rock high up near the right arete.Gain a ledge at 3m from the right. From the left end of the ledge, climb the thin crack, past a peg, to better holds and gear. Continue up the crack before stepping right to another crack just below the pancake. Pass the pancake on its left side and continue directly up the wall on good, but spaced holds to the top. The original finish stepped right onto the top of the pancake and finished up the arete. Both finishes are vegetated. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A difficult start to the peg (a friend just above Will suffice - may have to do in stages). Climb the crack using nice finger and toe jams and then veer right to base of pancake. Pull (with care - loose) on arete to an easy but atmospheric finish. Sling belay around rock pinnacles further back. Full rope length abseil required after on old slings, rope and crabs but ok (at least as of sept 07)
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Phileas Fauntleroy||10/Oct||Lead O/S||
Bloody good route in a remote setting. Bit green at the top but all there. Lifted out my 'bomber' and only nut when clipping the peg which shook me as the peg is less than mint.. Loved it :-)
|Jelly Mould Surfer||13/Sep||Lead rpt||
A route I've been after since 1991 - E1 5b.
What it says on the tin...Culm Coast Classic; quietly crumbling and happily deserted.
Misha, Andrew Wilson
The crux features a couple of thin moves on so-so gear (the peg is old and the back up is a micro cam). Easier above with the odd harder move. From the bottom it looks vegetated at the top but it's ok. Fun route to second and plenty of it - 45m. How on earth is that pancake still hanging on?! Added some new ab tat (offcut of my old half rope) and cut away the worst of the manky old stuff.
|Andrew Wilson||19/Jul||2nd O/S|
Great climbing all the way through. The moves past the peg need some commitment. The arete is a less vegetated finish but needs treating with care.
Nice E1 to the peg then steady hvs climbing, such a classic!
|adam 24||12/Apr||2nd O/S||
|Samuel Wainwright||07/Mar||2nd O/S||
Great route! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/quickie-on-culm.html
Lots of gear: I ran out of extenders. Once past the peg the gear improves.
Tom Bennachio, Scott Borden
3* classic route that keeps up the interest to the end. Great lead Chris, as I was watching the tide creeping slowly in! Middle section is a romp. E1,5b is about right.
Fantastic climb, huge wall of north facing Culm at its sustained and intimidating best. Goes into my S.W. all time top 10! Very clean climbing no vegetation or loose rock.
arff arff arff arff what a route.
Given a bit of a garden.
excellent adventure with the traverse variation start and ridge scramble off. definitely 3 stars! Edge of the Pancake and the arete at the top need treating with care!
|Jelly Mould Surfer||15/Sep/12||2nd O/S||
Definitely E1, and solidly so.
|Becky E||13/Aug/12||2nd O/S|
|Graeme Hammond||13/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
Stunning pitch, but clearly E1, had to climb the arÍte for a few moves above the pancake to avoid solid vegetation. Epic walk out in the dark and rain (had to start very late due to tides) :)
|Joel Perkin||06/Jul/12||2nd O/S||
Think it definitely gets it's E1 status, much harder than the other E1's I've seconded and Simon agrees. Second time Simon's climbed it and he's found the best way to set up a belay is to lead, pull through the rope, throw it over the back of the fin and tie to a 50m abseil rope and tie to boulders on the beach below, then pull it all back over the top. Makes it a bit more scary for the second but safer, plus easier to abseil then pull it back through.
|robbie Warke||14/Mar/12||Lead O/S||
Great climb, very misty today and very atmospheric! E1 me thinks and good value
|Tim M||30/Jul/11||2nd O/S||
Hard move going past the peg; everything else ok
very good sustained slab climbing
Stu Bradbury, Nic Dill
HVS 5b, or easy E1, it's long and sustained but only one tricky section low down, top arete is also the best finish but a little loose in places....also worth it's three stars....
took the rather cleaner arete at the top. Cool route
|jon bradley||13/Jun/10||2nd O/S||
Awesome route. Wish I'd led it.
Good route. Interesting approach - shale scree and shoulder high gorse/nettles & bracken. Bit grassy high up the route. Tat at the top was good.
|Mr Tickle||24/May/09||Lead O/S||
great adventure. Brilliant climb. Well worth the effort getting there
Scree scramble descent - must be easier to walk in along beach if tide permits. Long sustained route but pretty awesome climbing
The descent to the rock is hairy esp if one goes off course. The climb is excellent, the crux goes ok but the sequence needs thought
very nice route. long, relatively sustained,great moves, clum classic:)
|Tom Last||03/Jan/09||Lead O/S||
What a day out, brilliant!
|chris sm||12/Jul/08||Lead O/S||
Fantastic big slab climb
thouht 5b. gr8 route and adventure. bit loose at top. Micks first route with me he loved it. the abb of the back is interesting.
tough walk in, easier to get out. great climb though.
Chris and Mike LMC
|colin milton||25/May/96||Lead O/S||
Matt Vigg, Lee Bartrop