Matchless*** HVS 5a
[High on Matchless, 2 kb]A legendary Culm Coast line that just about stays free enough of vegetation in its upper third to retain its status. The climbing is extremely sustained and the positions are fly-on-the-wall like Start below the thin crack-system that shoots up to a stuck-on pancake of rock high up near the right arete. Photo on page 109. 50m. Gain a ledge at 3m from the right. From the left end of the ledge, climb the thin crack, past a peg, to better holds and gear. Continue up the crack before stepping right to another crack just below the pancake. Pass the pancake on its left side and continue directly up the wall on good, but spaced holds to the top. The original finish stepped right onto the top of the pancake and finished up the arete. Both finishes are vegetated. © ROCKFAX
A difficult start to the peg (a friend just above Will suffice - may have to do in stages). Climb the crack using nice finger and toe jams and then veer right to base of pancake. Pull (with care - loose) on arete to an easy but atmospheric finish. Sling belay around rock pinnacles further back. Full rope length abseil required after on old slings, rope and crabs but ok (at least as of sept 07)

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: High on Matchless © Mark Kemball
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 56 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Lots of gear: I ran out of extenders. Once past the peg the gear improves.
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/14 with Tom Bennachio, Scott Borden

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/14

crater - 2nd - 08/Sep/14 with steve

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/14

3* classic route that keeps up the interest to the end. Great lead Chris, as I was watching the tide creeping slowly in! Middle section is a romp. E1,5b is about right.
Sean Kelly - 2nd - 22/Jun/14 with Chris Ebbutt

Fantastic climb, huge wall of north facing Culm at its sustained and intimidating best. Goes into my S.W. all time top 10! Very clean climbing no vegetation or loose rock.
chris ebbutt - Lead - 22/Jun/14 with Sean

arff arff arff arff what a route.
timdi - Lead - 08/Jun/14

Given a bit of a garden.
andy_pemberton - 2nd - 14/Apr/14 with Steve Gibson

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Nov/13

excellent adventure with the traverse variation start and ridge scramble off. definitely 3 stars! Edge of the Pancake and the arete at the top need treating with care!
George.Rowland - 2nd - 07/Sep/13 with Bob Peters, Daisy peters, Iain Peters

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 18/Jul/13 with Luke S

stuart34 - 2nd - 04/May/13

Definitely E1, and solidly so.
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12

burto - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with jerome

JeromeT - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Ian

Becky E - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Graeme Hammond

Stunning pitch, but clearly E1, had to climb the arÍte for a few moves above the pancake to avoid solid vegetation. Epic walk out in the dark and rain (had to start very late due to tides) :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Becky E

Think it definitely gets it's E1 status, much harder than the other E1's I've seconded and Simon agrees. Second time Simon's climbed it and he's found the best way to set up a belay is to lead, pull through the rope, throw it over the back of the fin and tie to a 50m abseil rope and tie to boulders on the beach below, then pull it all back over the top. Makes it a bit more scary for the second but safer, plus easier to abseil then pull it back through.
Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/12 with Simon Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

Great climb, very misty today and very atmospheric! E1 me thinks and good value
robbie Warke - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Jamie Parfrey

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Sep/11

Hard move going past the peg; everything else ok
Tim M - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Emma

climbergg - Lead - 30/Jul/11 with cheesesarnie

berry - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Rick, Kafoozalem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

very good sustained slab climbing
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/11 with Andy March

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/May/11

Superb
Nick Wallis - Lead - May/11 with Laura

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with Stu Bradbury, Nic Dill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

HVS 5b, or easy E1, it's long and sustained but only one tricky section low down, top arete is also the best finish but a little loose in places....also worth it's three stars....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Sam

sgl - Lead - 11/Aug/10 with chad

took the rather cleaner arete at the top. Cool route
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with CarolineH

Awesome route. Wish I'd led it.
jon bradley - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Huw Howells

Good route. Interesting approach - shale scree and shoulder high gorse/nettles & bracken. Bit grassy high up the route. Tat at the top was good.
chris j - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with Doug

great adventure. Brilliant climb. Well worth the effort getting there
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with davenev

Scree scramble descent - must be easier to walk in along beach if tide permits. Long sustained route but pretty awesome climbing
davenev - 2nd dog - 24/May/09 with luke

The descent to the rock is hairy esp if one goes off course. The climb is excellent, the crux goes ok but the sequence needs thought
manwithacam - Lead - 25/Apr/09 with Martin M

very nice route. long, relatively sustained,great moves, clum classic:)
sebrider - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/09 with Eugene

Hidden - TR - 29/Mar/09

crobinson - 2nd O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Tom Last

What a day out, brilliant!
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Chester

chris sm - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Pippa Froggatt

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 08/May/08 with Toby Keep

Fantastic big slab climb
mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Chris Dale

thouht 5b. gr8 route and adventure. bit loose at top. Micks first route with me he loved it. the abb of the back is interesting.
Dale - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with johny mick

tough walk in, easier to get out. great climb though.
riddle - 2nd - Jul/07 with Chris and Mike LMC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/07

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 13/May/06 with Ady Short

TobyA - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/04 with TobyFK

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/03 with James Tracey

bullybones - 2000

colin milton - Lead O/S - 25/May/96 with eric milton

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 1995 with Matt Vigg, Lee Bartrop

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1993 with Don Sargeant

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lee_Meaden, alexjz, Ragingpossum, Graham H, Popkids, Mike W, Rassapotimus, RFWilkie, rockpool, kim.mulji, Alex the Alex, Neil Watson, James Oswald, Motown, Master Chief, AJH, The Ivanator, oscaig, Legs, Owen W-G, Ybot Htulk, Dan Lane, Ian Jones, Danhan, erinbastian, Dr Caterpillar, Ropeboy

Voting
Total votes cast 99
hard E10 of 35
E13 of 35
easy E123 of 35
hard HVS5 of 35
HVS4 of 35
easy HVS0 of 35
hard VS0 of 35
VS0 of 35
easy VS0 of 35
hard 5b0 of 34
5b2 of 34
easy 5b25 of 34
hard 5a3 of 34
5a4 of 34
easy 5a0 of 34
hard 4c0 of 34
4c0 of 34
easy 4c0 of 34
3 Stars28 of 30
2 Stars2 of 30
1 Star0 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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