Sugar Magnolia* HVS 5a
[Sugar Mgnolia, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A neat little pitch. Start at a thin crack just left of a larger left-leaning crack.
Climb the thin crack and then head left along a narrow ramp above the overlap to finish on the ridge. Descend easily down the South Ridge. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Sugar Mgnolia © Steve Woollard
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 99 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Homes - 04/Jul/15 with Leo

steveprice.exmouth - 2nd - 04/Jun/15 with Scott

Jake glenn - Lead - 06/Apr/15

Carter - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14 with Anna

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/14

Robertgiddy - Lead - 18/Jul/14

JulesClimbs - 2nd - 15/Jul/14 with Paul

nice little climb,little bold at top for leader
Matthew Martin Wsm - 2nd O/S - 27/May/14

JohnV - Lead - 26/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/14

Really quite a good climb with quite a few nice moves one after another one smallish area of quite easily avoidable bad rock otherwise good quality - 2 stars surely. Quite well protected.
CurlyStevo - Lead - 18/May/14 with clipskipper

Lots of loose rock. Abandoned 1 nut (at half height) to protect down climb. retreated from final traverse.
alexanderjwatts - Lead dnf - 04/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Last route as tide came in. Cracking end to the day.
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Zoe Taylor

lovely climb
dmannion - 18/Apr/14

vs at most
misterb - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with crispin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/13

outdoorrob999 - 2nd - 17/Dec/13 with Samuel Wainwright

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/13 with Ian

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Aug/13

Seconded Joel P the other day and fancied leading it so back today with Nicola. last moves show good commitment - well done Joel.
simonhammond1966 - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Aug/13

Joel Perkin - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/13 with Simon Hammond

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13 with Debbie

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/13

Hidden - 26/May/13

timstyles - 2nd β - 19/May/13 with Brian Vaughan

jon bradley - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Brian Vaughan

Philippa Arding - Lead - May/13 with jo nosworthy

tim.fairhall - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Matt

Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/13 with Mike Thorpe

Nick Biven - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/12

alice fuller - 2nd O/S - 29/Nov/12 with kafoozalem

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 28/Nov/12 with Mike Thorpe

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/12

martin clarke - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12 with john frost

Still good
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12

Nearly came off on the last move when a foot hold gave way. A death grip on the rounded hold saved me from a massive swinging fall. My mood was crimped by a seagull eating my lunch.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

Rikki5 - 2nd - 21/May/12

Spearos - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jan/12

josh william legg - Lead - 2012

sparbus - 2nd - 12/Oct/11 with mike b

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/11

Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Sep/11 with Steph Le Cornu, Rob Keough

bobtheclimber - TR O/S - 21/Sep/11

The diagonal crack requires good footwork and care as a vital hold was a bit lose. The climbing gets steadily harder but the crux is short lived and the top is near.
Paul1 - Lead - 31/Aug/11 with Nicole

Lovely climb, well worth doing. Hard enough to make you think, but always a hold you can use in reach.
col3 - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Paul

Nice intro to this cliff and its odd rock formations
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Rory

Low in the grade, but excellent climbing, on amazing rock. Good one to warm up.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Michael

Adrian Daniels - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Steve Webster

Easy climbing to the peg, which I clipped! Then branch left with your feet in the crack. The moves are really nice, focusing your balancing abilities. You do feel slightly run out, but on positive crimps. When I hit the massive jug it was an amazing feeling seeing what I had just done.
Legs - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Nancy Jones

petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Stephen Price

Super steady, good gear and not that bad overall. Good 1st HVS.
Zoomer - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Julia Bloomer

Jules 210681 - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with glenn bloomer

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney

A smart little pitch, but on snappier rock than the other routes we did. A handhold broke on the crux move, which fortunately had gear at waist height.
crossdressingrodney - Lead dog - 22/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics

Michael Aylen - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with tim exley

tim exley - 2nd β - 10/Apr/11 with michael

loopylovick - Apr/11

Nice first HVS, love the jug... 3 nuts placed
Joey C - Lead β - 2011 with Ed Evans

Very Wet
Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/10 with Brother Nick

culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10 with stevieo10

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

Haytor_Haggis - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with Bob Dawson, Steve Woollard

coombs - Lead - 15/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/10

RedFox - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Tom K

Steve Lenartowicz - Aug/10 with Clare

Bristoldave - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with CarolineH

Hidden - 29/Jul/10

gangreen - 03/Jul/10

Bobby Gilbert - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10 with Gary Burgess

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - 2010

mdjb - 2nd - 04/Jul/08 with csd23

Great route, easy start followed by thin moves to the left up crack. Technical finish
csd23 - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Mark Bunyard

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/07

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/04

reg_measures - Lead O/S - Sep/01 with henry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

mikej - Lead - 28/Aug/99 with Andy Alderwick

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/96

auld al - 2nd O/S - May/95

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1995

kp64zl - 2nd - Jun/92 with Keith, Jason M

Andy Fielding - Lead - 06/Sep/91 with Mark Lardner

Ken Taylor - Lead - 15/May/88 with George Diprose

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kim.mulji, Alan100, Warren Earle

Total votes cast 89
hard E10 of 31
E10 of 31
easy E10 of 31
hard HVS2 of 31
HVS19 of 31
easy HVS9 of 31
hard VS0 of 31
VS1 of 31
easy VS0 of 31
hard 5b0 of 31
5b0 of 31
easy 5b0 of 31
hard 5a0 of 31
5a13 of 31
easy 5a16 of 31
hard 4c1 of 31
4c1 of 31
easy 4c0 of 31
3 Stars0 of 27
2 Stars20 of 27
1 Star6 of 27
0 Stars1 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat