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Sugar Magnolia* HVS 5a

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[Sugar Mgnolia, 2 kb]A neat little pitch. Start at a thin crack just left of a larger left-leaning crack. 16m. Climb the thin crack and then head left along a narrow ramp above the overlap to finish on the ridge. Descend easily down the South Ridge. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Sugar Mgnolia © Steve Woollard
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 91 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Robertgiddy - Lead - 18/Jul/14

JulesClimbs - 2nd - 15/Jul/14 with Paul

nice little climb,little bold at top for leader
bigtimematty - 2nd O/S - 27/May/14

JohnV - Lead - 26/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/14

Really quite a good climb with quite a few nice moves one after another one smallish area of quite easily avoidable bad rock otherwise good quality - 2 stars surely. Quite well protected.
CurlyStevo - Lead - 18/May/14 with clipskipper

Lots of loose rock. Abandoned 1 nut (at half height) to protect down climb. retreated from final traverse.
alexanderjwatts - Lead dnf - 04/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Last route as tide came in. Cracking end to the day.
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Zoe Taylor

lovely climb
dmannion - 18/Apr/14

vs at most
misterb - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with crispin

Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/13 with Rob Steer

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/13 with Ian

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Aug/13

Seconded Joel P the other day and fancied leading it so back today with Nicola. last moves show good commitment - well done Joel.
simonhammond1966 - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Aug/13

Joel Perkin - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/13 with Simon Hammond

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13 with Debbie

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/13

Hidden - 26/May/13

timstyles - 2nd β - 19/May/13 with Brian Vaughan

jon bradley - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Brian Vaughan

Philippa Arding - Lead - May/13 with jo nosworthy

Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/13 with Mike Thorpe

Nick Biven - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/12

alice fuller - 2nd O/S - 29/Nov/12 with kafoozalem

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 28/Nov/12 with Mike Thorpe

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/12

martin clarke - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12 with john frost

Still good
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12

Nearly came off on the last move when a foot hold gave way. A death grip on the rounded hold saved me from a massive swinging fall. My mood was crimped by a seagull eating my lunch.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

Rikki5 - 2nd - 21/May/12

Spearos - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jan/12

josh william legg - Lead - 2012

sparbus - 2nd - 12/Oct/11 with mike b

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/11

Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Sep/11 with Steph Le Cornu, Rob Keough

bobtheclimber - TR O/S - 21/Sep/11

The diagonal crack requires good footwork and care as a vital hold was a bit lose. The climbing gets steadily harder but the crux is short lived and the top is near.
Paul1 - Lead - 31/Aug/11 with Nicole

Lovely climb, well worth doing. Hard enough to make you think, but always a hold you can use in reach.
col3 - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Paul

Nice intro to this cliff and its odd rock formations
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Rory

Low in the grade, but excellent climbing, on amazing rock. Good one to warm up.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Michael

Adrian Daniels - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Steve Webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Nancy Jones

Short'n'sweet
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Stephen Price

Super steady, good gear and not that bad overall. Good 1st HVS.
Zoomer - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Julia Bloomer

Jules 210681 - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with glenn bloomer

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney

A smart little pitch, but on snappier rock than the other routes we did. A handhold broke on the crux move, which fortunately had gear at waist height.
crossdressingrodney - Lead dog - 22/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics

Michael Aylen - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with tim exley

tim exley - 2nd β - 10/Apr/11 with michael

loopylovick - Apr/11

Nice first HVS, love the jug... 3 nuts placed
Joey C - Lead β - 2011 with Ed Evans

Very Wet
Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/10 with Brother Nick

culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10 with stevieo10

Steve Woollard - Lead - 24/Oct/10 with Kevin Colclough, Bob Dawson

Haytor_Haggis - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with Bob Dawson, Steve Woollard

coombs - Lead - 15/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/10

RedFox - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Tom K

Steve Lenartowicz - Aug/10 with Clare

Bristoldave - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with CarolineH

Hidden - 29/Jul/10

gangreen - 03/Jul/10

Bobby Gilbert - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10 with Gary Burgess

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - 2010

mdjb - 2nd - 04/Jul/08 with csd23

Great route, easy start followed by thin moves to the left up crack. Technical finish
csd23 - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Mark Bunyard

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/07

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/04

reg_measures - Lead O/S - Sep/01 with henry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

mikej - Lead - 28/Aug/99 with Andy Alderwick

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/96

auld al - 2nd O/S - May/95

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1995

kp64zl - 2nd - Jun/92 with Keith, Jason M

Andy Fielding - Lead - 06/Sep/91 with Mark Lardner

Ken Taylor - Lead - 15/May/88 with George Diprose

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kim.mulji, RFWilkie, Alan100, Warren Earle

Voting
Total votes cast 86
hard E10 of 30
E10 of 30
easy E10 of 30
hard HVS2 of 30
HVS18 of 30
easy HVS9 of 30
hard VS0 of 30
VS1 of 30
easy VS0 of 30
hard 5b0 of 30
5b0 of 30
easy 5b0 of 30
hard 5a0 of 30
5a12 of 30
easy 5a16 of 30
hard 4c1 of 30
4c1 of 30
easy 4c0 of 30
3 Stars0 of 26
2 Stars20 of 26
1 Star5 of 26
0 Stars1 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead48 of 91 (52.7%)
Followed33 of 91 (36.3%)
Toproped1 of 91 (1.1%)
Unknown9 of 91 (9.9%)

'Climbed'46 of 91 (50.5%)
clean O/S37 of 91 (40.7%)
clean β3 of 91 (3.3%)
clean rpt3 of 91 (3.3%)
dogged1 of 91 (1.1%)
dnf1 of 91 (1.1%)