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Sugar Magnolia* HVS 5a

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[Sugar Mgnolia, 2 kb]A neat little pitch. Start at a thin crack just left of a larger left-leaning crack. 16m. Climb the thin crack and then head left along a narrow ramp above the overlap to finish on the ridge. Descend easily down the South Ridge. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Sugar Mgnolia © Steve Woollard
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/13 with Mike Thorpe

Hidden - 2013

Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/12 with Alice

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 28/Nov/12 with Mike Thorpe

floss_81 - Lead - 01/Jul/12 with nick andrews

martin clarke - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12 with john frost

Still good
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12

Nearly came off on the last move when a foot hold gave way. A death grip on the rounded hold saved me from a massive swinging fall. My mood was crimped by a seagull eating my lunch.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

Rikki5 - 2nd - 21/May/12

Spearos - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jan/12

josh william legg - Lead - 2012

sparbus - 2nd - 12/Oct/11 with mike b

Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Sep/11 with Steph Le Cornu, Rob Keough

bobtheclimber - TR O/S - 21/Sep/11

The diagonal crack requires good footwork and care as a vital hold was a bit lose. The climbing gets steadily harder but the crux is short lived and the top is near.
Paul1 - Lead - 31/Aug/11 with Nicole

Lovely climb, well worth doing. Hard enough to make you think, but always a hold you can use in reach.
col3 - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Paul

Nice intro to this cliff and its odd rock formations
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Rory

Low in the grade, but excellent climbing, on amazing rock. Good one to warm up.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Michael

Adrian Daniels - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Steve Webster

Easy climbing to the peg, which I clipped! Then branch left with your feet in the crack. The moves are really nice, focusing your balancing abilities. You do feel slightly run out, but on positive crimps. When I hit the massive jug it was an amazing feeling seeing what I had just done.
Legs - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Nancy Jones

Short'n'sweet
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Stephen Price

Super steady, good gear and not that bad overall. Good 1st HVS.
Zoomer - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Julia Bloomer

Jules 210681 - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with glenn bloomer

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney

A smart little pitch, but on snappier rock than the other routes we did. A handhold broke on the crux move, which fortunately had gear at waist height.
crossdressingrodney - Lead dog - 22/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics

Michael Aylen - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with tim exley

tim exley - 2nd β - 10/Apr/11 with michael

loopylovick - Apr/11

Nice first HVS, love the jug... 3 nuts placed
Joey C - Lead β - 2011 with Ed Evans

Very Wet
Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/10 with Brother Nick

culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10 with stevieo10

Steve Woollard - Lead - 24/Oct/10 with Kevin Colclough, Bob Dawson

Haytor_Haggis - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with Bob Dawson, Steve Woollard

coombs - Lead - 15/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/10

RedFox - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Tom K

Steve Lenartowicz - Aug/10 with Clare

Bristoldave - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with CarolineH

Hidden - 29/Jul/10

gangreen - 03/Jul/10

Bobby Gilbert - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10 with Gary Burgess

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - 2010

mdjb - 2nd - 04/Jul/08 with csd23

Great route, easy start followed by thin moves to the left up crack. Technical finish
csd23 - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Mark Bunyard

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/07

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/05

Samuel1989 - 2nd - 25/Apr/04 with Crazy Kate, Luke, Ed

reg_measures - Lead O/S - Sep/01 with henry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/96

auld al - 2nd O/S - May/95

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1995

Andy Fielding - Lead - 06/Sep/91 with Mark Lardner

Ken Taylor - Lead - 15/May/88 with George Diprose

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RFWilkie, Alan100, Warren Earle

Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard E10 of 19
E10 of 19
easy E10 of 19
hard HVS0 of 19
HVS14 of 19
easy HVS5 of 19
hard VS0 of 19
VS0 of 19
easy VS0 of 19
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b0 of 20
hard 5a0 of 20
5a9 of 20
easy 5a10 of 20
hard 4c1 of 20
4c0 of 20
easy 4c0 of 20
3 Stars0 of 19
2 Stars14 of 19
1 Star4 of 19
0 Stars1 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Lead33 of 61 (54.1%)
Followed20 of 61 (32.8%)
Toproped1 of 61 (1.6%)
Unknown7 of 61 (11.5%)

'Climbed'31 of 61 (50.8%)
clean O/S26 of 61 (42.6%)
clean β2 of 61 (3.3%)
clean rpt1 of 61 (1.6%)
dogged1 of 61 (1.6%)