|Actually on the cliff about 100m south. A classic loose culm chimney runs the height of the crag. Savour it!
From Javu: "Insubsequenciousness HVS 5a ** 140’(?) #
80 yds south of The Wasted Youth Slab is a cliff facing the sea with obvious vertical rock layer bands - classic culm. In the centre there is a chimney with a small 'boulder choke' at just before half height. The start is gained from a fallen grassy slope. The rock is loose in places but generally OK, adequate protection can be found using medium wires, medium hexes, and small-medium friends. An enjoyable outing. Climb the chimney to the boulder choke, go on the inside of this, overcome a small overhang above to gain the next corner, which forms another chimney in its upper half. FA Lee Bartrop (wearing trainers) & Rob Galley. 10/9/00 (Lee thought it such a wonderful “experience”, that he went back and repeated it a week later with Matt Vigg)"|
Lee Bartrop, Rob Galley 10/Sep/2000
Ticklists: Culm Coast new routes.