130m.
From SMC new route journal:
"Critical Mass 130m VII,7. Iain Small,Tony Stone, Gareth Hughes. 11th December 2008.
A direct line up the steep front of the buttress, then finishing straight up the headwall where Dark Mass traverses off right. Start at the right side of the frontal face, left of the recess where West Chimney Route begins.
1. 60m Take a line of steep right-facing corners to easier ground and a block belay where West Chimney through route emerges.
2. 30m Climb the rib above to belay on the large block at the start of West Chimney’s traverse.
3. 40m Follow Dark Mass until above the shallow chimney-groove, then move left into a groove leading to a ledge below a steep wall. Pull steeply leftwards over this into a niche and take grooves to finish up an off-width crack."
"Critical Mass 130m VII,7. Iain Small,Tony Stone, Gareth Hughes. 11th December 2008.
A direct line up the steep front of the buttress, then finishing straight up the headwall where Dark Mass traverses off right. Start at the right side of the frontal face, left of the recess where West Chimney Route begins.
1. 60m Take a line of steep right-facing corners to easier ground and a block belay where West Chimney through route emerges.
2. 30m Climb the rib above to belay on the large block at the start of West Chimney’s traverse.
3. 40m Follow Dark Mass until above the shallow chimney-groove, then move left into a groove leading to a ledge below a steep wall. Pull steeply leftwards over this into a niche and take grooves to finish up an off-width crack."
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Route of Interest
The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner Direct
Grade: VII 7 ***
(Ben Nevis)