UKC

205m. From SMC new route journal:

"Diamond Diretissima 205m HVS 4c *. R.Hamilton, S.Kennedy. 5th May 2007.
A more direct line than Bell’s 1931 Direct Route, taking a line up the central slabs. A
long dry spell is desirable. Starts almost at the lowest point of the buttress below a clean
right-trending slabby ramp. The route has a serious feel to it. 60m ropes used.
1. 50m 4c Climb the ramp, following the right edge in the upper part, to a large block
under a steep wall below the central slabs. Direct Route crosses here from the right.
2. 55m 4c Move up left passing some large flakes, then pull left into a slabby corner.
Move up the corner then step right and climb cracked walls left of a prominent rightfacing
wall/corner (containing some loose blocks). A steep groove leads to the mid
girdling ledge.
3. 55m 4b Traverse left for 5m along the ledge then climb slabs above to enter a deep
recessed area. From the top of the recess pull out left by a large block and continue up
steep slabs on the left to reach easier ground.
4. 45m Scramble up broken ground to reach the left edge of the buttress a short distance
from the top."

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Route of Interest
Inbred

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Creag Dubh (Newtonmore))

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