UKC

Rockfax Description
120m, 2 - 4 hours. A true alpine classic - this is one of the few routes anywhere involving a tyrolean! If the climbing is well within your comfort zone, you will only need quickdraws and slings as there is some fixed gear on every pitch, but possibly not quite enough for those who find these grades tricky. If in doubt, chuck in half a dozen wires and a couple of big cams.
Approach - From Planpraz, walk up towards Brévent for 200m to a signpost including a sign to Clocher-Clochetons Traverse. Follow the path for 50 minutes to reach the foot of the Clocher. It becomes vague in a boulderfield around the top of Hotel California but just keep heading carefully upwards and the path reappears.
1) 4b. Climb the West Face of the Clochetons (the face that the approach path naturally brings you to) easily for 10m, then step right and follow flakes onto the South Face to the wide crack (4b) for 15m. The belay is an odd collection of metalwork but it all seems solid enough. This pitch can be protected with slings in the lower part and then there are sparse pegs and bolts once on the South Face. If the climbing is near your limit you will want a couple of big cams for the upper section.
2) Make a 25m abseil from the last belay down a narrow gully on the north side of the peak to reach a ledge underneath the notch between the Clocher de Planpraz and the Petit Clocher.
3) 3b. Climb the steep wall (3b) above and then the easy slab to the top of the Petit Clocher.
4) Make a 20m abseil down the East Face of the Petit Clocher to reach a sloping ledge. Another 25m abseil from here takes you to the foot of the 1st Clocheton.
5) 5a. Climb the crack (5a) up the West Face of the first Clocheton. This looks tricky and steep, but the holds are good and there are pegs just where you need them. The pitch leads to a iron spike, which is the anchor for one side of the tyrolean.
6) A truly unique section! A ledge on the second Clochetons is 5m away and also has an iron spike. Lasso this (the debate rages about whether an underarm or overarm technique is better for this manoeuvre!) and make a tyrolean across to the second Clocheton. If lacking the appropriate lasso skills, it is possible to abseil 15m down the East Face and then make another 25m abseil northwards to reach the descent path.
7) 4b. Climb the wall and slab (4b, two pegs) to the top of the second Clochetons.
8) A 20m abseil down the North Face leads to the foot of the notorious final chimney.
9) 5a. Climb the chimney, with as much style as you can, past a jammed block with a sling round it which is used for protection/cheating. From the top of the chimney, pass through the rock hole and climb the slab to the top of the third Clocheton.
10) Make a 20m abseil down the East Face and scramble down on an exposed path before crossing onto the north side of the ridge at a small notch. Walk/scramble back underneath the traverse and reclimb back to the foot of the first pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic, short training climb. A small rack is sufficient, there is in situ gear for the abseils.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Big Routes , Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Alps 2023 , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Summer easier alpine , TM Alps , Cham Sep 24

Feedback

User Date Notes
Leahcleire 31 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch feels harder than 4b - but we were wearing rock shoes. Maybe it goes at that grade if you have boots on and can jam them in the crack.
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βeta: First pitch feels harder than 4b - but we were wearing rock shoes. Maybe it goes at that grade if you have boots on and can jam them in the crack.
Sam Waddy 11 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The last but one ab make sure to use the tatt with a maillon rather than threading the big metal ring, the angle over the edge makes pulling the rope impossible, you wouldn\'t want to have to the climb the rope to sort it out after all. Great route, fun and entertaining climbing all the way.
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βeta: The last but one ab make sure to use the tatt with a maillon rather than threading the big metal ring, the angle over the edge makes pulling the rope impossible, you wouldn't want to have to the climb the rope to sort it out after all. Great route, fun and entertaining climbing all the way.
JSudd 27 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Doesn't seem to be a second peg on the pitch after the Tyrolean, so it's essentially an 8m runout to the top. Some serious fall potential. A sling is possible, weighted ideally.
βeta?
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βeta: Doesn't seem to be a second peg on the pitch after the Tyrolean, so it's essentially an 8m runout to the top. Some serious fall potential. A sling is possible, weighted ideally.
Tall Oak 26 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A climbing circus of fun. Fair play to Mike K for underarming the peg first time and then going back for a second loop very easily. Very cool set of routes and a fun day out. Highly recommended.
βeta?
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βeta: A climbing circus of fun. Fair play to Mike K for underarming the peg first time and then going back for a second loop very easily. Very cool set of routes and a fun day out. Highly recommended.
chigozie 31 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: On pitch 2, the abseil down the narrow gully, both the group before us and us got our ropes stuck when we pulled them.
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βeta: On pitch 2, the abseil down the narrow gully, both the group before us and us got our ropes stuck when we pulled them.
Olivermorrell 18 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Use an atc guide plate to rig the tyrollean. Gear is sparse. Photos from below look best on the crossing
βeta?
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βeta: Use an atc guide plate to rig the tyrollean. Gear is sparse. Photos from below look best on the crossing
chrishunt55 15 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Got to the start of the route around mid day and got joined the queue behind 2 groups of novices. As a storm came in around 3 we decided to bail after the first 2 pitches. Was great fun nonetheless. Will be back for sure!
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βeta: Got to the start of the route around mid day and got joined the queue behind 2 groups of novices. As a storm came in around 3 we decided to bail after the first 2 pitches. Was great fun nonetheless. Will be back for sure!
bummingham 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Becareful with rope work on the long absail (2x short in rockfax) . We did it in one and got the rope mega stuck. We also pulled the rope up for the group in front (who did it in one).
βeta?
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βeta: Becareful with rope work on the long absail (2x short in rockfax) . We did it in one and got the rope mega stuck. We also pulled the rope up for the group in front (who did it in one).
Calum3610 1 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The “jammed” block in the final 5a chimney pitch definitely moves, I wouldn’t pull on it. We also saw a guided party skip the chimney pitch so maybe this is a known problem if you are local.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The “jammed” block in the final 5a chimney pitch definitely moves, I wouldn’t pull on it. We also saw a guided party skip the chimney pitch so maybe this is a known problem if you are local.

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High AD+
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High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High PD+
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Low PD+
Votes cast 18
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
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DNF
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Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Les Courtes Traverse

Grade: AD 2 ***
(Les Courtes)

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