Rockfax Description
120m, 2 - 4 hours. A true alpine classic - this is one of the few routes anywhere involving a tyrolean! If the climbing is well within your comfort zone, you will only need quickdraws and slings as there is some fixed gear on every pitch, but possibly not quite enough for those who find these grades tricky. If in doubt, chuck in half a dozen wires and a couple of big cams.
Approach - From Planpraz, walk up the ski piste towards Brévent for 200m to a signpost which includes a sign to the Clocher-Clochetons Traverse. Follow the path for 50 minutes to reach the foot of the Clocher. It becomes vague in a boulderfield around the top of Hotel California but just keep heading upwards, following signs of wear and the path reappears.
1) 4b. Climb the west face of the Clochetons (the face that the approach path naturally brings you to) easily for 10m, then step right and follow flakes onto the South Face to the wide crack (4b) for 15m. The belay is an odd collection of metalwork but it all seems solid enough. This pitch can be protected with slings in the lower part and then there are sparse pegs and bolts once on the south face. If the climbing is near your limit you will want a couple of big cams for the upper section.
2) Make a 25m abseil from the last belay down a narrow gully on the north side of the peak to reach a ledge underneath the notch between the Clocher de Planpraz and the Petit Clocher.
3) 3b. Climb the steep wall (3b) above and then the easy slab to the top of the Petit Clocher.
4) Make a 20m abseil down the east face of the Petit Clocher to reach a sloping ledge. Another 25m abseil from here takes you to the foot of the 1st Clocheton.
5) 5a. Climb the crack (5a) up the west face of the first Clocheton. This looks tricky and steep, but the holds are good and there are pegs just where you need them. The pitch leads to a iron spike, which is the anchor for one side of the tyrolean.
6) A truly unique section! A ledge on the second Clochetons is 5m away and also has an iron spike. Lasso this (the debate rages about whether an underarm or overarm technique is better for this manoeuvre!) and make a tyrolean across to the second Clocheton. If lacking the appropriate lasso skills, it is possible to abseil 15m down the east face and then make another 25m abseil northwards to reach the descent path.
7) 4b. Climb the wall and slab (4b, two pegs) to the top of the second Clochetons.
8) A 20m abseil down the north face leads to the foot of the notorious final chimney.
9) 5a. Climb the chimney, with as much style as you can, past a jammed block with a sling round it which is used for protection/cheating. From the top of the chimney, pass through the rock hole and climb the slab to the top of the third Clocheton.
10) Make a 20m abseil down the east face and scramble down on an exposed path before crossing onto the north side of the ridge at a small notch. Walk/scramble back underneath the traverse and reclimb back to the foot of the first pitch.
Descent - Walk down to Planpraz on the Clocher-Clochetons approach path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic, short training climb. A small rack is sufficient, there is in situ gear for the abseils.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.


ClimberDateStyle
Robbo1 06/Sep -

Great day with Jonny

Petarghh 28/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug AltLd O/S
kelly_426 07/Aug AltLd
with Ben Clifton, Luke Dudill
bclifton 07/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug AltLd O/S
BStar 25/Jul Lead O/S

Missed out the last chimney as it looked horrid. Hard to find the route in the clag but we managed to find it by using a combinations of 2 guidebook descriptions. The route was good fun, the highlight being the Tyrolean. The first and third climbs are by far the better ones. HS 4b in the UK maybe, but there's lots of pegs and in situ tat. So much fun!

Trevers 25/Jul AltLd O/S

Great fun, although some of the abseils are pretty awkward. Missed out the final pitch. Worthwhile for the Tyrolean alone.

with Will
wjcdean 25/Jul AltLd dnf

super good day. very atmospheric in the clag. didnt do the final chimney pitch as it looked a bit awful! tyrolean was great. bit of a nightmare getting back after going up the wrong gully to get back to the start

Rachael88 25/Jul AltLd

Well done to Adam & Will for finding the start of the route in the cloud. Great climbing, interesting abseils! and we did the tyrolen!

with Adam
Tony Ryland 19/Jul AltLd

Got as far as the tyrolean but didn't want to miss the last cablecar

Andrew Lodge 19/Jul AltLd O/S

Ran out of time to do the Tyrolean so had to ab off but a great varied route.

Hidden 07/Jul AltLd
Storme 07/Jul 2nd

Tryolean was interesting.

with Jake Richardson
Hidden 01/Jul Lead O/S
Sarah Roscoe 01/Jul AltLd
with Dave Humphries
Jake397 ?/Jul -
with Storme England, Hamish
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
bencoope ??/2016 -

The approach notes fail to mention that you have to leave the main path at a bend and take a smaller path that is marked with a red cross. Following these approach notes will take you for a nice long walk to the Brevant lift

wi11 04/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Louisa Reynolds
davkeo 29/Aug/15 Solo O/S

Tyrolean traverse was fun.

Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Ken Applegate 07/Aug/15 AltLd

Continuation of Label Virginie. The Tyrolean was probably the highlight of the route!

with Andy Barker
Andrew Barker 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Mistakenly abseiled off the wrong side of the Clocher after Label Virginie. Then mistakenly climbed back up it via the 6a variation (hard in approach shoes). The traverse was fun, especially the tyrolean and taking my rucksack off halfway up the final chimney.

hairy51 ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Benjaminblanc ?/Aug/15 AltLd rpt

All but the last chimney

with Joe Andrews
10029759 ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Tony Ryland 30/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Did the Clocher but not the Clochetons

with Jonathan Davies
alexm198 02/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Pretty chilled route. Climbing is all very straightforward apart from the slippery final chimney! Tyrolean was good fun. Took about 2h45.

Hidden 02/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
alooker ?/Jul/15 Lead
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden 02/Sep/14 AltLd
Frank Blakeley 20/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 14/Aug/14 -
Andrew will wilson ?/Aug/14 AltLd

Cool

Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead
Francis Hardy 02/Jul/14 AltLd

With guide as part of the Conville course

Hidden 02/Jul/14 AltLd
mike mo ??/2014 -
joe.91 27/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Really cool route, more abseiling than climbing though! Long walk in as the lifts are closed for the off season.

Hidden 27/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Sam Simpson 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 18/Jul/13 Solo
with Dave Dewhurst
HosteDenis ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Mr. K 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Missed out the last needle as Chris' feet were disintegrating but still an amazing day out - did the optional tyrolean traverse.

fathobbit 07/Sep/12 2nd
with Mr. K
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 AltLd
AlexxelA 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Great fun, the tyrolean was novel if a bit short. Could be very time consuming if there wasnt a party ahead to catch the rope.

Tom Campbell ?/Jul/12 -
kingjam ?/Jul/12 AltLd
with Craig Higgins, Matt Naylor
Colin Scotchford 12/Sep/11 -
chrissloan84 ?/Aug/11 -
with paul
Hidden 31/Jul/11 -
Hidden 31/Jul/11 AltLd
Poco Loco 25/Jul/11 AltLd

Great fun apart from one damp pitch!

with R. Horler, Bald Eagle
BALD EAGLE 25/Jul/11 AltLd
with Rob Horler, J.Pomeroy
RKernan 10/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

Got lost on the walk in, did the first pitch, abbed off the wrong way and had a terrifying experience with a dodgy anchor then backed off due to bad weather

Sinéad 10/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd
Dave Toseland 26/Aug/10 AltLd
with Jim
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Vincej ?/Aug/10 2nd
with Paolo Intrepido
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
DebJ 08/Sep/09 2nd
with Al Powell, Chris & Terry
Souljah 05/Sep/09 AltLd

Big Fun

with Shaun
Hidden 30/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
tim20 ??/2009 -
shaun walby 10/Jul/08 AltLd
with Kev Groome
Hidden ?/Jun/07 AltLd
andybuckley ?/Jul/06 AltLd

Nice... must go back and do the 2nd and 3rd towers with the Tyrolean some time.

with Tom Whipple
Simon K 29/Aug/05 AltLd β

Moved together, Rich coaching.

with PR + Rich Cross
MoWalker3 01/Aug/05 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Martyn ?/Aug/05 Lead dnf

Bottled it!!!!

with James Williams
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead
tom_holdsworth 13/Sep/03 Lead

1st 2 pitches only. Then rapped off.

with Will Taylor
Hidden 08/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
tompercy ?/Jul/94 Solo
auld al ?/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost ??/1989 -

On Plas y Brenin course

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