The climbing is wonderful, not difficult but sustained, exposed and very, very strenuous.

The approach is climbing in itself. The only way to get to the Quintino Sella hut is by the Miage Glacier and the Mont Blanc glacier. You can also get there by the Gonella Hut but is was closed when we where there (early in July) and it is dangerous in summer...

The Mont Blanc glacier was icy and it is much steeper that we expected.
Getting to the ridge from the glacier was easy and the climbing to the hut
is funny and very beautiful, but loooooong!...

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.


ClimberDateStyle
jogle03 29/Jul AltLd O/S

Started from aiguille noire campsite which added 3.5km to the walk in but allowed us to bus over from chamonix without any excess kit. Long walk in to the bottom of the glacier. The snout is not in good condition, we climbed about 50m on the very edge of the ice before dashing across a dangerous couloir to reach rock. Steep climbing on grass/Rock until about half way up when the rock starts a lot better. Long day, took us closer to 8 hours. Hut is being renovated so next season will be hooked up with electricity and now has a helicopter platform. Started on summit day at 1am - first snow slope from hut was not great so we took a climbing traverse onto rocks on the right hand side. Short climb up small couloir got us into the plateaux. Easy going to base of spur, the bergschrund was not in condition so we skipped onto rock early and stayed on rock as much as possible. Short sections of snow inbetween the rock, mostly in condition, some hard ice and a bit of windslab. Topped out on the ridge about 20 mins below summit, descended via Goutier route. Long day, 16 hours all in (3 hours behind guide time).

machars 20/Jul -

Mostly did couloir next to ridge. Stunning remote place and route. Descended via Gonella hut for lift free ascent of Mont Blanc. Access to refuge via Mont Blanc glacier pretty hairy- got onto rock as soon as possible just as big chunk of ice/rocks came down. Recommend access via Gonella Hut if in condition.

with Flynn
dutybooty 10/Jul/15 -

Really good. Snow conditions terrible did mostly rock. Descent took way too long.

with Bieber
AshBash 10/Jul/15 -

3rd ever alpine ascent, long long long but a experience.

with Ash
niw44 06/Sep/10 -

A real traditional way of climbing Mt Blanc, no cablecar or train, just long and strenuous though not hard. The route to the Quintino Sella hut is slightly different to described, leave the glacier at 2600m, go to just about the top of the grassy couloir and follow the ridge.

Simon4 ?/Jul/91 -
with Wayne Horsfall
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, nathan.h90, Hidden, alexm198, Hidden, Timothy Miller, joelevanschamonix, Hidden, sweenyt, dutybooty, Hidden, jamesbrown1979, Hidden, Hidden, Simon K, Hidden, Hidden, heist182, milkyjoe, teos, stemill, aslawecki, mathquirk, Hidden, punj, IslandTraveller
Voting
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
Votes cast 2
High 3+
Mid 3+
Low 3+
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2+
Mid 2+
Low 2+
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set