Rockfax Description
A massive, steep slab shoots skywards from the boulder beach of Slab Cove and presents an irresistible challenge. The cliff suffers from intermittent rockfall and the route has altered considerably over the years, and unfortunately the top pitch is now much poorer than it was. The first pitch requires a large rack of wires. Start to the left of the lower overhangs at a thin crack.
1) 5c, 50m. Climb to and through the lower overlaps with difficulty and move up right to gain a thin crack (this first section has also been climbed starting in the small corner just to the right at a similar grade). Follow the thin crack past a bulge and on up to a horizontal break. Move right and then climb up rightwards to the start of a thin crack-system. Superbly-sustained climbing up this gains a hanging belay at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 50m. Climb up the right-leaning diagonal crack a little way to a thin break which is climbed up leftwards to below a long, loose and grassy groove at the left end of a diagonal overlap (belay possible). Climb the right arete of the groove and finish with care.
2a) 5c, 50m. A harder, but loose and serious finish is possible by continuing up the diagonal crack to just short of the vegetated corner, from where a very loose and serious traverse left under the diagonal overlap can be made to join the finish as described. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Very good routes in the UK, Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, UK Lonely Leads.

Scooter Young ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
tash 28/Sep/14 2nd

A bit epic - horrendous top section but good lower down. Sore feet - I'm not designed for slab climbing!

with ali k
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 AltLd O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
AlexD 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led p2, pulling up on ab rope to finish as rock was very poor. impressive section of cliff, lots of fun.

with Marti
Marti999 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

bit damp at start, cult classic falling in to disrepear. fully recommend putting a rope down top groove to cross the very loose entry in to it very little gear up it. Needs some stakes.

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Chad123 13/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Had wanted to do this one for years - Emily intimidated but did well on pitch 2. Still a 3 star classic I reckon - 2 and a half pitches of perfect crack and slab action then 10m of dangerous loose rock moving leftwards and a solid rib to finish (Pink Void variation) Leave a rope down the top pitch just in case which makes it less scary! I agree that overall feels more like E3 5c *** but I would grade the pitches 5b, 5b, 5c. Go do it before it all falls down!

with Emily
Hidden ??/2008 -
Paz 04/Feb/07 Lead dnf

Onsighted P1+2 then got benighted on P3 and prussiked up a (kindly lowered) ab rope. Grade probably makes more sense as a 3* E3 5c adventure route than an old classic `normal' E2.

with TS2
rob.grafton ??/2007 Lead
with Paul McCann
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden 31/Aug/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead
steve taylor ??/2000 Lead O/S
with mark williams
Tim M ??/2000 -
rurp ??/2000 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -

Sheer magic.

goi.ashmore 05/Sep/99 Lead O/S

On a boling day, with huge breakers at the base!

with Roy Thomas
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 27/Oct/97 AltLd
with Bill McKee
Hidden ?/May/97 AltLd O/S
leadmat ??/1997 Lead
with Graham Fleury
Hidden 17/Sep/96 AltLd O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Al Brady
IanGilbertJones 02/Jun/95 Lead O/S
auld al ?/May/95 AltLd O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
keefe ??/1995 -
timbanton ?/Aug/94 -
Rob Davies 28/Aug/93 Lead dnf

Half-hearted attempt at P1

with Roy Lindsay
mattnuttall 03/Aug/93 AltLd O/S

lead P1

with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ?/May/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
frank ramsay ??/1993 Solo
jcw ??/1993 -
with Alex Renshaw
Hidden 23/Nov/92 2nd
Andy Fielding 07/Sep/91 AltLd
with Mark Lardner
whispering nic 19/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Ali W
Andy Say 26/Apr/91 Lead
Hidden 28/Mar/91 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/90 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Sep/90 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
keefe ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24/Oct/89 Lead
with Phil Baker
Babika 18/Oct/89 2nd O/S

Bailed after pitch 1. All distinctly scary hanging on a bundle of no 1 rocks etc...

with James Compton, Mark Jones
Bruce Kerr 23/Jul/89 Lead
with Keith Turton
Derek Ryden ??/1989 AltLd O/S
with Krishna
Simon cook ?/Aug/88 -
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
charlesmfrench ??/1988 Lead O/S
davidalcock ??/1988 Lead

One of my favorite climbs ever. Used to be given 5c in my day!

with Philip Scorer
michael burrows 28/Aug/87 AltLd O/S
with ian nettleton
Tom V 16/Aug/87 AltLd

Led P1

with Howie Darwin
eroica64 25/Jan/87 AltLd

Led pitch 1. Brilliant climb.

with Julian Chapman
Hidden 28/May/86 AltLd O/S
Mike Owen 31/Jul/85 -
with Elaine Owen
shark 29/Jul/84 AltLd dog
with Bruce Woodley
Mike C 26/Aug/83 2nd
with Mark Cadman
mark-abz 25/Aug/83 Lead
with Mike C
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Hidden ?/May/80 AltLd O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden 07/Aug/78 AltLd
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Justin T, Alex the Alex, crag_hopper_Jay, Urgles, Hidden, Master Chief, Alan100, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ropeboy, climbingpixie, 00nip, Mattyk, Ed Booth
High E3
Mid E3
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 10
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set