Devon > Baggy Point >
 
Heart of the Sun** E2 5b

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[The big sweeping slab of 'Heart of the Sun', Baggy Point, N. Devon, 3 kb]A massive, steep slab shoots skywards from the boulder beach of Slab Cove and presents an irresistible challenge. The cliff suffers from intermittent rockfall and the route has altered considerably over the years, and unfortunately the top pitch is now much poorer than it was. The first pitch requires a large rack of wires. Start to the left of the lower overhangs at a thin crack.. 1) 5c, 50m. Climb to and through the lower overlaps with difficulty and move up right to gain a thin crack (this first section has also been climbed starting in the small corner just to the right at a similar grade). Follow the thin crack past a bulge and on up to a horizontal break. Move right and then climb up rightwards to the start of a thin crack-system. Superbly-sustained climbing up this gains a hanging belay at a horizontal break.. 2) 5a, 50m. Climb up the right-leaning diagonal crack a little way to a thin break which is climbed up leftwards to below a long, loose and grassy groove at the left end of a diagonal overlap (belay possible). Climb the right arete of the groove and finish with care.. 2a) 5c, 50m. A harder, but loose and serious finish is possible by continuing up the diagonal crack to just short of the vegetated corner, from where a very loose and serious traverse left under the diagonal overlap can be made to join the finish as described. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Very good routes in the UK, Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: The big sweeping slab of 'Heart of the Sun', Baggy Point, N. Devon © Pete Saunders
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 71 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14

mike mo - 2014

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Alex Haslehurst

Led p2, pulling up on ab rope to finish as rock was very poor. impressive section of cliff, lots of fun.
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Marti

bit damp at start, cult classic falling in to disrepear. fully recommend putting a rope down top groove to cross the very loose entry in to it very little gear up it. Needs some stakes.
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Alex Dennis

alan moore - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

pasbury - 2011

Had wanted to do this one for years - Emily intimidated but did well on pitch 2. Still a 3 star classic I reckon - 2 and a half pitches of perfect crack and slab action then 10m of dangerous loose rock moving leftwards and a solid rib to finish (Pink Void variation) Leave a rope down the top pitch just in case which makes it less scary! I agree that overall feels more like E3 5c *** but I would grade the pitches 5b, 5b, 5c. Go do it before it all falls down!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Emily

Hidden - 2008

Onsighted P1+2 then got benighted on P3 and prussiked up a (kindly lowered) ab rope. Grade probably makes more sense as a 3* E3 5c adventure route than an old classic `normal' E2.
Paz - Lead dnf - 04/Feb/07 with TS2

rob.grafton - Lead - 2007 with Paul McCann

Bern - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - Aug/01

steve taylor - Lead O/S - 2000 with mark williams

Tim M - 2000

rurp - Lead O/S - 2000

bullybones - 2000

On a boling day, with huge breakers at the base!
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/99 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1999

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 27/Oct/97 with Bill McKee

leadmat - Lead - 1997 with Graham Fleury

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/96

auld al - AltLd O/S - May/95

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

Hidden - Aug/94

lead P1
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Aug/93 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - AltLd - 1993

frank ramsay - Solo - 1993

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Nov/92

Andy Fielding - AltLd - 07/Sep/91 with Mark Lardner

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/91 with Ali W

Andy Say - Lead - 26/Apr/91

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Mar/91

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/90

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/90

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/90

keefe - 1990

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Bailed after pitch 1. All distinctly scary hanging on a bundle of no 1 rocks etc...
Babika - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/89 with James Compton, Mark Jones

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 23/Jul/89 with Keith Turton

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 1989 with Krishna

Simon cook - Aug/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1988 with Emily

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1988

One of my favorite climbs ever. Used to be given 5c in my day!
davidalcock - Lead - 1988 with Philip Scorer

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/87 with ian nettleton

Led P1
Tom V - AltLd - 16/Aug/87 with Howie Darwin

Led pitch 1. Brilliant climb.
eroica64 - AltLd - 25/Jan/87 with Julian Chapman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/86

Mike Owen - 31/Jul/85 with Elaine Owen

shark - AltLd dog - 29/Jul/84 with Bruce Woodley

Mike C - 2nd - 26/Aug/83 with Mark Cadman

mark-abz - Lead - 25/Aug/83 with Mike C

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/78

D Tempest - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/78

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chrisweight, bigtimematty, Justin T, Alex the Alex, crag_hopper_Jay, The Pylon King, Hidden, Master Chief, Jon Didymus, Alan100, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ropeboy, climbingpixie, 00nip, Mattyk, Ed Booth

Voting
Total votes cast 28
hard E30 of 9
E30 of 9
easy E32 of 9
hard E22 of 9
E25 of 9
easy E20 of 9
hard E10 of 9
E10 of 9
easy E10 of 9
hard 5c0 of 10
5c0 of 10
easy 5c7 of 10
hard 5b1 of 10
5b2 of 10
easy 5b0 of 10
hard 5a0 of 10
5a0 of 10
easy 5a0 of 10
3 Stars9 of 9
2 Stars0 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 71 (1.4%)
Lead23 of 71 (32.4%)
Followed3 of 71 (4.2%)
Alt Leads24 of 71 (33.8%)
Unknown20 of 71 (28.2%)

'Climbed'41 of 71 (57.7%)
clean O/S26 of 71 (36.6%)
clean rpt2 of 71 (2.8%)
dogged1 of 71 (1.4%)
dnf1 of 71 (1.4%)