Heart of the Sun*** E2 5c
[Heart of the Sun (E2 5C), 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A massive, steep slab shoots skywards from the boulder beach of Slab Cove and presents an irresistible challenge. The cliff suffers from intermittent rockfall and the route has altered considerably over the years, and unfortunately the top pitch is now much poorer than it was. The first pitch requires a large rack of wires. Start to the left of the lower overhangs at a thin crack.
1) 5c, 50m. Climb to and through the lower overlaps with difficulty and move up right to gain a thin crack (this first section has also been climbed starting in the small corner just to the right at a similar grade). Follow the thin crack past a bulge and on up to a horizontal break. Move right and then climb up rightwards to the start of a thin crack-system. Superbly-sustained climbing up this gains a hanging belay at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 50m. Climb up the right-leaning diagonal crack a little way to a thin break which is climbed up leftwards to below a long, loose and grassy groove at the left end of a diagonal overlap (belay possible). Climb the right arete of the groove and finish with care.
2a) 5c, 50m. A harder, but loose and serious finish is possible by continuing up the diagonal crack to just short of the vegetated corner, from where a very loose and serious traverse left under the diagonal overlap can be made to join the finish as described. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Very good routes in the UK, Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Heart of the Sun (E2 5C) © Kafoozalem
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 78 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Scooter Young - Lead - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14

A bit epic - horrendous top section but good lower down. Sore feet - I'm not designed for slab climbing!
tash - 2nd - 28/Sep/14 with ali k

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Alex Haslehurst

Led p2, pulling up on ab rope to finish as rock was very poor. impressive section of cliff, lots of fun.
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Marti

bit damp at start, cult classic falling in to disrepear. fully recommend putting a rope down top groove to cross the very loose entry in to it very little gear up it. Needs some stakes.
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Alex Dennis

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

pasbury - 2011

Had wanted to do this one for years - Emily intimidated but did well on pitch 2. Still a 3 star classic I reckon - 2 and a half pitches of perfect crack and slab action then 10m of dangerous loose rock moving leftwards and a solid rib to finish (Pink Void variation) Leave a rope down the top pitch just in case which makes it less scary! I agree that overall feels more like E3 5c *** but I would grade the pitches 5b, 5b, 5c. Go do it before it all falls down!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Emily

Hidden - 2008

Onsighted P1+2 then got benighted on P3 and prussiked up a (kindly lowered) ab rope. Grade probably makes more sense as a 3* E3 5c adventure route than an old classic `normal' E2.
Paz - Lead dnf - 04/Feb/07 with TS2

rob.grafton - Lead - 2007 with Paul McCann

Bern - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - Aug/01

steve taylor - Lead O/S - 2000 with mark williams

Tim M - 2000

rurp - Lead O/S - 2000

bullybones - 2000

Sheer magic.
alan moore - 2000

On a boling day, with huge breakers at the base!
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/99 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1999

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 27/Oct/97 with Bill McKee

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/97

leadmat - Lead - 1997 with Graham Fleury

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/96

IanGilbertJones - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/95 with Geoff Quinn

auld al - AltLd O/S - May/95

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

Hidden - Aug/94

lead P1
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Aug/93 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - AltLd - 1993

frank ramsay - Solo - 1993

jcw - 1993 with Alex Renshaw

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Nov/92

Andy Fielding - AltLd - 07/Sep/91 with Mark Lardner

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/91 with Ali W

Andy Say - Lead - 26/Apr/91

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Mar/91

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/90

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/90

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/90

keefe - 1990

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 24/Oct/89 with Phil Baker

Bailed after pitch 1. All distinctly scary hanging on a bundle of no 1 rocks etc...
Babika - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/89 with James Compton, Mark Jones

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 23/Jul/89 with Keith Turton

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 1989 with Krishna

Simon cook - Aug/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1988 with Emily

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1988

One of my favorite climbs ever. Used to be given 5c in my day!
davidalcock - Lead - 1988 with Philip Scorer

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/87 with ian nettleton

Led P1
Tom V - AltLd - 16/Aug/87 with Howie Darwin

Led pitch 1. Brilliant climb.
eroica64 - AltLd - 25/Jan/87 with Julian Chapman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/86

Mike Owen - 31/Jul/85 with Elaine Owen

shark - AltLd dog - 29/Jul/84 with Bruce Woodley

Mike C - 2nd - 26/Aug/83 with Mark Cadman

mark-abz - Lead - 25/Aug/83 with Mike C

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/78

D Tempest - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/78

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Justin T, Alex the Alex, crag_hopper_Jay, Urgles, Master Chief, Alan100, Ropeboy, climbingpixie, 00nip, Mattyk, Ed Booth

Total votes cast 31
hard E30 of 10
E30 of 10
easy E32 of 10
hard E22 of 10
E26 of 10
easy E20 of 10
hard E10 of 10
E10 of 10
easy E10 of 10
hard 6a0 of 11
6a0 of 11
easy 6a0 of 11
hard 5c0 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c7 of 11
hard 5b1 of 11
5b3 of 11
easy 5b0 of 11
3 Stars9 of 10
2 Stars1 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat