Our Stars, Our Sky** VS 4c
[Pitch 2, the big thread., 2 kb]45m, 2 pitches. Great climb with 2 very different pitches. Approach from the farm track turning left onto the coastal path, follow this for 100 m through a gate and then head down a steep grassy gully with the top of the outcrop on your right. Gear up and abseil from an obvious large boulder where the steep slope meets the edge of the cliff. From the abseil step out onto the wave cut platform and identify the large overhanging nose at the base of the cliff. Pitch one takes the obvious right diagonal (looking at the cliff face) under the large overhanging nose before turning back left to a solid belay ledge above. Cams are useful, the crack line under the overhang is often wet and double ropes are useful in protecting your second although care needs to be taken to avoid rope drag. Pitch 2 is amazing. Climb up and out of the belay ledge to the left where once at the arete you will be able to see across the steep and airy traverse. Don't worry as the holds and gear placements are plentyful and the rock - volcanic pillow larva - is increbibly grippy. Resist climbing up and traverse across to a large thread half way across the face, awkward stretch down and across to a good vertical crack line and one more set of moves left to the final edge of the face before climbing up the arete to finish. Belay using spaced out cracks in the sloping rock above. Walk off up stepped slope to grassy gully.

Ticklists: Atlantic Coast Dagger Attack.

Photo: Pitch 2, the big thread. © althesin

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 12 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Airy and scary - proper Cornish sea-cliff climbing - brilliant adventure!! (lead both pitches)
SurferStan - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Tom Monday

P1
Dilwat - 2nd rpt - 06/May/13 with Dave P

dave did really well to lead this very 'atmospheric' route
whiteexplorer - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with SurferStan

i.fish2000 - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/12 with Silas Feaver

p1
althesin - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/12 with simonfish2000

Climbed with Nicola. Drizzle to start with making pitch one a bit slippery but pitch two was well worth it, amazing airy but well protected traverse. Careful with ropework on both pitches to look after second.
sh@budehaven.cornwall.sch.uk - Lead O/S - 22/May/12

P2
Dilwat - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 09/May/10

Mike W - Lead - 09/May/10

coombs - AltLd - 09/May/10

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 30/Apr/05 with Stu Bradbury

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Rassapotimus, SurferStan, Kate Edhouse, oscaig, Ropeboy, johnpr, AJH
Voting
Total votes cast 15
hard HVS0 of 5
HVS0 of 5
easy HVS0 of 5
hard VS0 of 5
VS5 of 5
easy VS0 of 5
hard HS0 of 5
HS0 of 5
easy HS0 of 5
hard 5a0 of 5
5a0 of 5
easy 5a0 of 5
hard 4c0 of 5
4c5 of 5
easy 4c0 of 5
hard 4b0 of 5
4b0 of 5
easy 4b0 of 5
3 Stars4 of 5
2 Stars1 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.