|Our Stars, Our Sky||VS 4c|
|45m, 2 pitches. Great climb with 2 very different pitches. Approach from the farm track turning left onto the coastal path, follow this for 100 m through a gate and then head down a steep grassy gully with the top of the outcrop on your right. Gear up and abseil from an obvious large boulder where the steep slope meets the edge of the cliff.
From the abseil step out onto the wave cut platform and identify the large overhanging nose at the base of the cliff.
Pitch one takes the obvious right diagonal (looking at the cliff face) under the large overhanging nose before turning back left to a solid belay ledge above. Cams are useful, the crack line under the overhang is often wet and double ropes are useful in protecting your second although care needs to be taken to avoid rope drag.
Pitch 2 is amazing. Climb up and out of the belay ledge to the left where once at the arete you will be able to see across the steep and airy traverse. Don't worry as the holds and gear placements are plentyful and the rock - volcanic pillow larva - is increbibly grippy. Resist climbing up and traverse across to a large thread half way across the face, awkward stretch down and across to a good vertical crack line and one more set of moves left to the final edge of the face before climbing up the arete to finish. Belay using spaced out cracks in the sloping rock above.
Walk off up stepped slope to grassy gully. |
Ticklists: Atlantic Coast Dagger Attack.
Photo: Pitch 2, the big thread. © althesin