Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A good, varied climb that can be well-protected. Start on the left of the pinnacle and climb up to the bottom of a large corner. Fine climbing up the corner and flake reach a tree and belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Approach from the left of the detached pinnacle, the route starts just behind the pinnacle itself and climbs the left hand corner to a small tree. Bridge between the pinnacle and the corner until you join the groove, layback the solid flake and climb the final corner to the belay tree (abseil tat in place). Good gear throughout.
Ticklists
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| teebee1805 | 6 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lower off tat removed as the tree is getting quite poor & damaged. better to scramble up left (easy) and use new lower off on Side Effects. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Lower off tat removed as the tree is getting quite poor & damaged. better to scramble up left (easy) and use new lower off on Side Effects. |
||||
| Quarryboy | 29 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are currently nesting birds on this route, would not recommend doing it at the moment for this reason. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There are currently nesting birds on this route, would not recommend doing it at the moment for this reason. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Whitt
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Symonds Yat)