Gloucestershire > Shorn Cliff >
 
No Musketeers*** HVS 5a

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No Musketeers (Direct Finish) >>
[Peter on the excellent No Muskeeteers (HVS 5a), Shorn Cliff, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, Orange Spot Lower Wye.

Photo: Peter on the excellent No Muskeeteers (HVS 5a), Shorn Cliff © Simon Caldwell
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 297 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Dave-Westlake - Lead - 18/May/13

cem - Lead rpt - 18/May/13 with Dan Zhou

Thought both the final traverse (or the e1 finish) quite bold on the supposedly bomber thin cracks. Bomber it may be but is still going to only be a micro nut. Glad I got to second it.
spearing05 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

TDSvejstrup - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Catherine Johns

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/13

abtibbs - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Will

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/13

kirsten - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/13 with Kirsten

Martin Bennett - Apr/13

Becky H - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with George Cave

Pumped and fell on the steep low section before gaining the slab.
davetaylor - 2nd dog - 15/Sep/12 with Shawn Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/12

Tried the E1 finish but failed, quite a reachy move.
Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 31/Jul/12 with Pete Staves

kim.mulji - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Monica

matjam - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/12

Pero - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/12

Felt harder than Laughing Cavaliers.
TobyA - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Bill N

benscarter - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Chris O

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jul/12

timmyhobby - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

jakelodge - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Keeno

Stupidly dropped half my nuts about a third of the way up so had to run it out a bit...
Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Jake Lodge

Nice and straightfoward up to the traverse. Bottled out of trying the direct finish, even though I was on a top rope.
Hooo - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Vince, Nevil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/12

rurp - Lead O/S - 15/May/12

Another great Great Central Cave Area classic route.
Big Lee - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Richard Ashton

Great route yet again. What a crag.
Rick Ashton - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Big Lee

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/May/12

pffft - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Andy Arbon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/12

tradguy - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Brian Mead

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Chris Ince

Bit of a brown trouser lead. Greasy low down, then seeping heavily on the traverse. Luckily the quality of gear increases with the difficulty. Would be very nice in the dry, as it was, tad scary!
Dave 88 - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/12 with puppythedog

Seconded Dave, really solid lead from him, the traverse seemed bloody spicy to me :-)
puppythedog - 2nd β - 28/Feb/12 with Dave 88

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Feb/12

Lev - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/12 with Emma Ross

HarryB - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/12

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 2012

Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 2012 with Pete Staves

timtimpeggy - 2012

wildrover220 - Lead β - 23/Oct/11 with Niall Lusby, Ali Dixon

tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/11 with Quicko

Got part way up, got scared, backed off.
smolders - Lead dnf - 09/Oct/11 with David P, Robert D

Great slabby top section. Reachy bottom section.
dprctr - 2nd β - 09/Oct/11 with Martin Oldham, Robert Dufton

rd20 - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/11 with David P, Martin

jiggerypokery - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/11 with Dan Hutchinson

hutchay - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/11 with Jerome

Great climb, very greasy rock today, slippery on upper parts.
SamStokes - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11 with Liz Evans

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Henry Northern

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/11

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 29/Aug/11

Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Ross

bullybones - Lead - 13/Aug/11 with Linda F

victim of mathematics - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/11 with Simon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/11

jonnobyrne - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11

WalnutHorse - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with James P

Pocket-tastic
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Mark

georgel - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with anthony

flashpanther - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/11

Previously done the direct finish.
Marcos31 - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Pam Loftus, Al Watson

hotfeet - Lead - 24/Jun/11 with Ant, Wayne

waynem1985 - 2nd - 24/Jun/11 with Antony Davies, Alan Mountford

Clay C - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Karin

bemdl - 2nd - 15/Jun/11

bonelessivar - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Andy

jezb1 - 2nd - 25/May/11

halfwaythere - Lead - 25/May/11 with jez

Dux - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Andy Smith, Premal

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Tricky finish.
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 15/May/11 with Dan

dpmUK - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with victim of mathematics

This has a bit of a sting in the tale. Seb led, but need some rests.
twodada - 2nd - 14/May/11 with Seb Fisher Green

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/11

neilh - Lead - 30/Apr/11 with Rob Davies, Phil Ashton

Simon Allcock - 2nd - 19/Apr/11 with Mark

Went off the route twice. Placed a cam far left in LC route really, than traversed back did the route correctly through the slab and traverse, but then finished through ... one for all, too much to the right.
andrzej kierzek - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Tara

Dibdawg - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with Mark Sheridan

did this instead of the direct finish for a change
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with matt

Matt Johnson - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/11 with Si Crisp

riff156 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Jo Smith

Vince McNally - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/11

SteWatkins - Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/11

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Chiz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Felt quite easy, did an odd indirect direct finish, should have gone direct.
jezb1 - Lead - 17/Mar/11

mandy - 2nd - Feb/11 with elf, rick

Nice lead, harder than Laughing Cavaliers. Steeper than it looks in the bottom half. Annoyed at myself for not giving the harder finish a go - the gear is good.
mullermn - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Kylie Richards, Monkey

Hard traverse near the top, very enjoyable.
Kylie - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Monkey, mullermn

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 12/Oct/10 with Crispin

Rock was a bit greasy at the bottom. Quite necky, one of those climbs where holds miraculously appear at the end of your reach just as you need them. Traverse at the top very delicate, the direct finish didnt look much harder.
PaulWatson - 2nd RP - 09/Oct/10 with Fred, Kat

Steep at the start on slimy holds. Middle section is easier. The traverse at the top is the crux with some delicate foot work, the gear is good. Next time i’ll try the E1 finish.was harder than BBT or LC. A must do despite the slim at the start!
Fred_Richard - Lead - 09/Oct/10 with PaulWatson

kat-lyle - Lead - 09/Oct/10 with PaulWatson

simonp - Lead O/S - Oct/10 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Superb route - steep at the bottom, easier mid-section and a really committing traverse to finish. Then a beautiful view of the Wye and Tintern while belaying your second.
Submit to Gravity - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Al Randall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10

Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Andy

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/10 with Becca

Had seconded direct ages ago. Really good for most of route but let down by the finish - felt off route and eliminate - went on to one for all for a bit :(
BeccaSnowden - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/10 with Tom

Gareth Bowen - 2nd β - 03/Sep/10 with Richard Popp

ezclimber - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with pierce ferris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/10

Soft. Made a mess whilst using single rope and someone else's rack
jimmatthews - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/10 with alex knight

Slick - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Isabel Evans

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/10

Matt Johnson - 2nd - 05/Aug/10 with Sarah Cossar, Si Crisp

ian d f - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Eva

Jacob k-d - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

toasted - 2nd - 01/Aug/10 with Jake UKC

The top is a bit disappointing, but I didn't have the bottle to do the more logical E1 finish!
Rob Exile Ward - Lead - 25/Jul/10 with Sam Ward

Kevster - Lead - 25/Jul/10

Garron - 24/Jul/10

Good route, nice face climbing and a lovely set of moves to traverse near the top
brockers - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Maggie Bass

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

rig - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Dan, Rob Gittins, James Carpenter

dpiddock - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with James C

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with liv_the_div

freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Andy Chamberlain, Doug

will be back for the direct version
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Rich

Tom Lead
canis cibo - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Andy Chamberlain, Tom

Danos - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Rich

Andy Chubb - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Nick Gregory

Richard Morgan - 2nd - 30/May/10 with Toby Kluth

martin one - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Neil Nand

Ybot Htulk - Lead - 30/May/10 with Richard

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/10

ElBarto - 2nd - 30/May/10 with Martin Lennon

Nice route, really sound rock. Went a bit high on the traverse and got a bit out of shape though. Stunning views of the valley and the abbey from the belay.
PabloV - Lead - 28/May/10 with Ben Wetherill

Nice route, steady until the traverse which felt tough to me, my first HVS lead.
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Stewart

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/10

varied climb, nice
lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 14/May/10 with Al Franks

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 14/May/10 with Liz davies

UndeRsoGGycrAg - Lead dog - 01/May/10 with dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

classic
ripper - Lead - 18/Apr/10 with Chris Warby

Really nice climbing. Fairly steep start to gain the slab. The direct finish is more ascetically pleasing, must come back to do that.
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Dave

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/10 with Alan Sage

petegruf - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with zaheer d

got a bit lost on this one but the lower section was steep and fun
stvredmond - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Robert Duerr

Bobling - 2nd - 10/Apr/10 with sredmond

DanH9883 - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Lee

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/10 with Emma Hawkins, Martin Hore

Hidden - TR O/S - 04/Apr/10

Ali.B - Lead O/S - Apr/10

gripped01 - Lead - Apr/10 with Jim Jarvis, Alex Tomczynski

gripped01 - Lead - Apr/10 with Jim Jarvis, Alex Tomczynski

tobyb - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/10

chalkiesurf - 2010

james.lane - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/09 with Adam

Should lead next time, but need to be fresh
Alaric - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with garywong

garywong - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Paul Chalmers

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/09

gazbonutter - 2nd dog - 05/Sep/09 with Tuze, Pete MacDonald

aged_ape - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/09 with IH

dare - 2nd β - Sep/09

eroica64 - 2nd - 16/Aug/09 with Majid Soltani

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/09

Really fun steep climbing followed by delicate tiptoeing up the slab. The traverse at the top felt a bit out of character, really the direct finish would be a better line.
Quiddity - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Hazel

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/09

Alan came off traverse move near the top - I felt very insecure on the move too.
dave1 - 2nd - 14/Jun/09 with Alan Clouth

bigbobbyking - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Cameron Hall

grumpyoldjanner - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with CUMC

Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/09 with Gary Lewin

Danhan - Lead - 12/Apr/09 with Nick

Neil Stansbie - 2nd - Apr/09

simonw1 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Heather Lewis

summo - 2009

gripped01 - Lead O/S - 2009

jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - Oct/08 with Ian Woodroe

James B - Lead - 27/Sep/08 with Rob

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/08 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08

Fatclimber - 2nd β - 23/Aug/08 with Jason Garnham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/08

jon bradley - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Huw Howells

gdb4060 - Lead - 24/Jun/08 with collin

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/08 with Andy F

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/May/08 with Clare

gareth r - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Phil

PhillipG - 2nd - 18/May/08 with Gareth

Hidden - TR - 18/Apr/08

Lois - 2nd - 29/Jan/08 with Olly Birrell

My first completed HVS! Decided to be a little cocky about it and only place one dodgy cam into a knee height crack before attempting the bold middle section which was quite scary!
Eddie Hung - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Katie Smith

My first HVS!
Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08

Hidden - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

thin bob - 2008

dts - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/07 with Andy Taylor

Hidden - Oct/07

dobrek - 2nd - 15/Sep/07 with simon4

cayteye - 2nd O/S - Sep/07 with Brian Mead

featuresforfeet - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/07 with Mark Lim

dobrek - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Simon K

Tim W - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Matthew Thomson

hash - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Par

did the E1 5c finish
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/07 with sandrine

eagleopus - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Martin P

dave657 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/07

The Pylon King - Lead rpt - 04/May/07 with David Elder

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Gimmer

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Mirek Markvart

toasted - 2nd - 01/Apr/07 with Ian Atkins

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Mar/07 with Mark Catt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06

vet - 09/Sep/06 with Nick

Andrew1 - Lead - 02/Aug/06 with Rachel Smith

a_d_tru - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/06 with Alex, Tommo

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/06 with jez

chris j - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/06 with Mark Davies

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/06

simonw1 - 2nd O/S - 07/May/06 with Allan Watson

Awesome route.
AJM - Lead O/S - May/06 with Tom Lambert, Robin Macintosh

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/06 with Clare & Michael L

Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/06 with Colin Milton

colin milton - Lead - 23/Apr/06 with chris sansum

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Clare Pastorius

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - Mar/06 with Kristoffer

I got lost at the top, but miraculously managed to get up.
kristofferalpsjo - Lead - Mar/06 with Toby Kluth

gimmer - Lead - 2006

mike kann - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 2006

krikoman - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/05 with 1_Kev Gibbs, Rick Gibbs

sam8oy - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/05 with John

TimPerkin - 2nd - 07/Aug/05 with Dave Gale

Jason Gotel - Lead - Jun/05 with Pippa Lansdown

kenneM - May/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/05

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/04 with Clare

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/04

spence - 2nd rpt - 15/May/04

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/04 with Clare Wolstenholme

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/04

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Feb/04 with Laura

a_radiohead_fan - 2004

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 2004 with dean howard

Wil Treasure - Solo O/S - Nov/03

lithos - Lead O/S - Aug/03

liabilityliz - 2nd - Jun/03 with Scotty Moore

cem - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/03 with Neil Northrop

Budge - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/02 with Carl Tiivas

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Sep/02

awsome but thin lead, the traverse at the top is hairy.
GrahamHP - Lead - May/02 with Daryl Flint

Boxy - Lead O/S - Mar/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/01

BruceW - Lead O/S - 2001 with Becca

With Gill
Lepista - Lead - 19/Aug/00

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/00

Scotsken - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

bullybones - 2000

My first HVS trad lead! Tiptoes required. Superb!
Rob Oram - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/99 with Tom Asbridge

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/99

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/99

Laramadness - 2nd - 1999

liabilityliz - Lead - 29/May/98 with Brian Evans

Finished lead climbing directly through the bulge on thin cracks... E1 5C finish
liabilityliz - Lead - 29/May/98 with Mark Trepte

Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 1998 with Ned Atkins

Tim Sparrow - Lead - 1998 with Geoff Thomas

chris sm - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/97 with Dom Goodridge

Colin Edwards - Lead dog - 02/Aug/97

liabilityliz - 2nd - 16/May/97 with Mark Trepte

Adrian Eggleton - Lead - Oct/95 with Jason Lynn

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 14/Aug/95 with Dee Herbert

Vince McNally - Lead O/S - 1994

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/93 with Debbie Wilkinson

Backinthegame - Lead - Jun/93 with John Wright

whispering nic - Aug/91 with Ali W

ericinbristol - Lead O/S - 1991 with Eric

Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - Mar/90

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1990 with Clare Hart

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, DrewWilkins, dawesbub, Hidden, Hidden, explodingsprouts, ChrisRGX, alexanderjwatts, Ropeboy, Hidden, Dassie, Ander, Days on Rock, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, SC, Dax, Hidden, JackMountains, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 147
hard E10 of 52
E10 of 52
easy E10 of 52
hard HVS4 of 52
HVS38 of 52
easy HVS9 of 52
hard VS1 of 52
VS0 of 52
easy VS0 of 52
hard 5b0 of 47
5b0 of 47
easy 5b1 of 47
hard 5a11 of 47
5a28 of 47
easy 5a4 of 47
hard 4c3 of 47
4c0 of 47
easy 4c0 of 47
3 Stars30 of 48
2 Stars17 of 48
1 Star1 of 48
0 Stars0 of 48
Bag of .....0 of 48
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 297 (0.3%)
Lead178 of 297 (59.9%)
Followed98 of 297 (33.0%)
Toproped2 of 297 (0.7%)
Unknown18 of 297 (6.1%)

'Climbed'102 of 297 (34.3%)
clean O/S156 of 297 (52.5%)
clean β6 of 297 (2.0%)
clean rpt22 of 297 (7.4%)
clean RP4 of 297 (1.3%)
dogged5 of 297 (1.7%)
dnf1 of 297 (0.3%)
Unknown1 of 297 (0.3%)