Restricted Access
Climbing is banned on most sectors including Deportivo (sometimes known as Chorreras or Sucina) and Sherpa from 1st january till 30th June due to nesting birds.https://www.valenciaclimb.com/regulations/
The long ridge immediately behind the entrance to the caves:
Ridge: Follow easy rocks at first, with opportunity for escape to the right for quite some time. Stick to the crest as much as possible, roping up whenever it feels necessary. There's a really good mix of easy (grade 1) scrambling and climbing up to grade 3+ (about v'diff) over some extremely exposed terrain. Care is required at all times as there is much loose rock.
Belays are fairly easy to find and a good selection of slings will prove useful for setting these up and for protecting the climbing sections. A notably long, narrow section gives much excitement and good, exposed moves throughout, this then leads on to the final scramble to the top. From here the ridge widens and descends to a col and the end of the scrambling.
Ridge: Follow easy rocks at first, with opportunity for escape to the right for quite some time. Stick to the crest as much as possible, roping up whenever it feels necessary. There's a really good mix of easy (grade 1) scrambling and climbing up to grade 3+ (about v'diff) over some extremely exposed terrain. Care is required at all times as there is much loose rock.
Belays are fairly easy to find and a good selection of slings will prove useful for setting these up and for protecting the climbing sections. A notably long, narrow section gives much excitement and good, exposed moves throughout, this then leads on to the final scramble to the top. From here the ridge widens and descends to a col and the end of the scrambling.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| nickcanute | 5 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This climb is duplicated and could be more accurately amalgamated with the entry under Cuevas Canalobre section | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This climb is duplicated and could be more accurately amalgamated with the entry under Cuevas Canalobre section |
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| nickcanute | 5 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: If continuing to summit and interested in cave exploration then take a head torch for cave just below summit (free climbable short pitches). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If continuing to summit and interested in cave exploration then take a head torch for cave just below summit (free climbable short pitches). |
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| brianrunner | 1 Mar, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really good fun exposed scrambling- recommended. Thanks for the descriptions Mark. Some bolts at the more exposed sections. We walked off to the right to meet the PR trail and continued up to the Cabeco d'Or summit and back round the mountain anti clockwise (Cicerone walk 47) making for a longer day out. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Really good fun exposed scrambling- recommended. Thanks for the descriptions Mark. Some bolts at the more exposed sections. We walked off to the right to meet the PR trail and continued up to the Cabeco d'Or summit and back round the mountain anti clockwise (Cicerone walk 47) making for a longer day out. |
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