Rockfax Description
The route is well equipped but still requires a small rack. Include some smaller cams and bring larger size Friends 3.5 or equal. The climb starts on the right arete of a gigantic groove. All belays are equipped for abseil except for the belay on top of pitch 4 which is a large tree for belay.
1) N6-, 55m. Start up slabby rock and pass a large bush on its right-hand side. Some thin moves lead up to a small groove - small gear. The belay is located on top of the groove at good stance.
2) N7-, 35m. Above the stance, make an awkward move to reach a crack. Follow this further along flakes to a roof. Make a well protected hard move passing the roof and continue to belay beneath another smaller roof.
3) N7-, 55m. Climb the small roof and climb either directly through a very thin section (bolts), or a groove to the left (easier). Make a small traverse left and climb sustained friction following bolts to reach another roof. Negotiate this roof via bouldery moves to reach a belay on a good ledge.
4) N6+, 50m. From the ledge do one hard move and follow more sustained climbing that leads via bolts to another ledge system. Belay in a tree on the upper ledge.
5) N6-, 50m. Climb up the beautiful arch and find the thin features that link the bolts together. Another small groove and some friction moves lead to the last belay. A small cam is useful near the end of the pitch.
Descent - Either abseil down the route or continue by very easy climbing to the top and walk down. © Rockfax

FA. Tor-Erik Larsen, Jonny G. ?rgensen, Tom Atle Bordevik 1998 15/Jun/1998.

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