Rockfax Description
The first few moves are a Baggy legend, but unfortunately the upper pitch lets the route down. The first pitch provides an excellent alternative to the first pitch of Midnight Cowboy, should the tide be in. Start by abseiling or downclimbing the descent ridge to a small ledge, about 12m above the base of the zawn. Opposite is a small flat spike that touches the edge of the overhanging zawn wall.
1) 4c, 20m. Not a pitch for the short! Fall across the zawn to reach the spike and pull across on good holds. Move steeply up to the edge of the slab and pull around onto it. Move right and slightly upwards to a peg before traversing 7m right, either high or low, to a stance on a small sloping reddy/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 4b, 34m. Reverse the traverse back left to the peg, and climb up above it heading for a square-cut flake with an old thread. Before reaching the flake, move leftwards on the best rock and then take the cleanest line above with care to a stake belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, West Country Climbs, South West Climbs for a Northerner, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Baggy point road to ruins HVS.

Jelly Mould Surfer 01/Nov AltLd

Pitch 1 to get to Midnight Cowboy. Quite a tough strenuous pitch.

with Mike Thorpe
s.thursz 25/Oct Lead O/S

with Gerban

zimpara 08/Oct Lead dnf

Thrutchy. If you're 5'6 and climb VS- give this a miss. Pull through blocks quite tasty.

with rob
AEH 26/Sep 2nd dog
with Christian Mertes
Gaz of Bath 09/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep AltLd
fizzychewitt 05/Sep AltLd

Led p1. Some great moves and pitch 2 is actually good climbing, top out chossy though

with John Norman
Hidden 05/Sep 2nd O/S
JulianB 28/Aug Lead O/S
with Pete Randall
Pete Randall 28/Aug AltLd O/S
with Julian B
Hidden 18/Aug AltLd rpt
Hidden 18/Aug AltLd
OllieF 17/Aug AltLd dnf

Ended up backing off the second pitch as it was definitely quite dark! After reading comments about the quality of the second pitch it seemed like the best idea. High tide so bit of a mission getting everything back! Left a nut and a screwgate on the first pitch if anyone fancies retrieving them? :)

with Chris Rees
Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
Phileas Fauntleroy 11/Aug Lead rpt
with James Cully
Hidden 08/Aug AltLd
timreynolds 25/Jul Lead

P1 only. Kinky Cowboy

with Tommasso Benacchio
dbrooks 19/Jul AltLd O/S

"escaped" up the top pitch after I fell in the sea wading across to start Midnight Cowboy at a rising tide (Jack's idea), did not fancy HVS 5B with soaking wet everything and no chalk so did this instead... top pitch is absolutely horrific! loose, hard to protect and generally not very pleasant

Hamish777 18/Jul AltLd O/S

Andrea lead P1. The fall across turned out to be the easy bit on the first pitch. Getting your legs across is the tricky bit, I contemplated this a great deal with hands on one face, feet on the other and the water below. P2 is just horrific, the gear is thin, the rock questionable and there are long run out sections.

with Andrea
andrea83 18/Jul AltLd O/S

Overrated. I got the best deal-lead 1st pitch and Hamish got the second which isn't the best rock quality.

with Hamish
Skip 11/Jul AltLd O/S

The "fall across" is only a reach out if you're tall enough.

alexbarry 11/Jul AltLd O/S

Started to regret agreeing to lead the first pitch when I got down there, but it looks a lot worse than it actually is! Brilliant climb, deserves a better rating in the guide book. Lead p1.

with Skip
Hidden 09/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul Lead
Hidden 30/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May Lead
smartydh9 20/Apr Lead O/S
TP 05/Apr -
with Helen F
Jackislav 27/Mar AltLd O/S

Fantastic route! Loved every move, Led P2 totally disagree with the book stating "P2 lets it down" Nice straightforward slab climbing on steady-ish Rock

AngelaC 21/Mar 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar AltLd O/S
adamre12 19/Mar AltLd O/S
jon59 04/Mar Lead
Hidden ?/Feb Lead rpt
Matt Harmon 18/Jan AltLd O/S

led P1

Anna duckett 18/Jan AltLd
with Matt H
James1483 ??/2015 2nd
with robin
Big Rog ??/2015 -
Big Rog ??/2015 -
Jontheroofer ??/2015 -
jamie ward 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Finished up long rock eliminate

minexplorer 03/Oct/14 AltLd

found crossing easy.then faffed around in blazing sun for ages at the rusted peg spot,changing piece of gear,twice! left me very dehydrated and bit pumped.fell off after several attempts at strenuous pull onto slab crux.pete finished pitch pulling onto slab lower down.i then led 2nd pitch.its a bit run out towards the top,with some loose rock,but enjoyable.

with pete
Hidden ?/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
timdi ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Stroppy 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S

P1 only, Rog led. (Kinky Cowboy)

RKirke 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

First pitch as start to midnight cowboy. Thought the reach/fall was straight forward but the move onto the slab was hard. Fantastic pitch.

with Becky E
Becky E 16/Aug/14 2nd

1st pitch only - finished on Midnight Cowboy.

Tom Seccombe 15/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
with Kev Smith
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S
dmaldonado 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Ed led first pitch, I led second

with Ed Walker
georgeevans88 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Start was fantastic and not as hard as it looks. Slab above felt quite run out for VS. Top pitch is awful and dangerous. Avoid!

with Alex P
beckett45 03/Jul/14 -
peter.ravenscroft27 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

LOVED it. Pull through legendary!! Traversed to high on first pitch, which made it unnecessarily heart pounding. Dad Led 2nd pitch which is surprisingly good quality

with Dad
jhb0510 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Andy March
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
chrisdevon 23/Jun/14 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 22/Jun/14 2nd
mike hooper 31/May/14 AltLd

Led all the route now jobs a gooden

with jobey martin
Joby 31/May/14 AltLd β

led first pitch, Mike led second

with Mike Hooper
CurlyStevo 29/May/14 Lead

Done as one pitch. The start was very unusual and enjoyable, but the rest had a lot of loose rock (between very slightly loose and frightening). Quite run out between the good gear placements sometimes. It felt like most bits of gear in the upper 1/3 were in bits of rock the were not 100% solid and most moved at least very slightly when hit!

with CraggyJohn
Joemanglerocks 24/May/14 AltLd

Led P1, Tim P2 in the rain

with Dave Marshall, Tim Knight
TimKnight 24/May/14 AltLd O/S

P1 all in the head. Led P2 and found a nice route up, in the rain

with Dave Marshall, Paul Anker
Matthew Martin Wsm 14/May/14 Lead

great first pitch, second pitch scrappy and vegetated, so glad to tick it off though!

with ian marshall
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead
crater 04/May/14 2nd

great first move

with steve
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
ChristyCole 29/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
BenFord893 23/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
arandall 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S

After the brilliant first pitch i was thinking, 'how bad can the second be to drag the star rating down'. Loose hollow sounding flakes and a grass top out to finish. Marcus slipped off reversing the traverse. Took me a little while to commit to the falling across move.

with Marcus Hague, Isaac Whitcombe
Will Mortimer 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Rough tide below, made for the notorious first pitch to be extra special!

Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Doug miller 13/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 08/Mar/14 AltLd
08nbrierley 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with jamie
Adam Hill 08/Mar/14 -
Monkey_Alan 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Some nervy moments with the massive, booming flakes. I've never been less reassured by a thread runner!

Hidden 06/Oct/13 AltLd
illwizod 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Hazel Izod
Hidden ?/Sep/13 -
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S
JonnySchofield 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Pero 24/Aug/13 AltLd
petegunn 12/Aug/13 AltLd

First pitch only, the traverse from the peg to the stance is quite bold.

with Davina
Hidden 12/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Bede 11/Aug/13 AltLd
with Ben, Tony Smith
mariannekhoo 11/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Peri led P1, I led P2. Needed to pull on a sling which Peri had deliberately left dangling for me - I was at full stretch on the falling across move and couldn't reach the positive edge and the spike - anyone who is 5'1-5'2 should not attempt this on lead! The rest of P1 was quite easy. Don't expect to find much gear on P2, and beware, Rockfax provides an incorrect length for P2. Peri hadn't used much rope for the belay but I'd nearly run out of rope by the time I reached the belay stake, which puts P2 at about 45-47 metres.

with Peri Cheal
martin one 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Russel scummer
Hidden 10/Aug/13 -
kim.mulji 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
oscaig 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch - I was just about OK at a shade under 5'5" but still had to climb up to the starting holds. Also managed to find a particularly blank, hard and worrying line on the traverse to the belay - doh!

Hidden ?/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Phileas Fauntleroy ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with James Cully, James Latus, Dan Gorvett
James1483 ?/Aug/13 2nd
with james, dan, robin
Darrell Read 27/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
mike hooper 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

(YES) I am tall enough to lean across the first move :-). And what lovely move they are. Gone from my wishlist led first pitch

with jobey martin
steve-grigg 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
jezb1 04/Jul/13 Lead

Lead p1 and then reversed p1, the starting moves are harder in reverse....

Andy Moles 03/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd β
Kate Edhouse 28/Jun/13 AltLd

Struggled being 5"2 in the first move. .. had to climb down and lean across with the help from a sling to get back up to the usual jug. Lead pitch 2 which is fantastic.

with gerwen
Hidden 28/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
adam 24 23/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Bit of an epic. Lead first pitch, but partner couldn't make the first move. Abbed down to the beach, scrambled back up then abbed from the top, cleaned the first pitch and top roped directly out

darren hudson 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

great start, with fallover then pull up over blocks. the traverse a bit blank.. 2nd pitch not great

with Dave Wynne jones
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead
Adrian Daniels 01/Jun/13 AltLd
with John Parrott
Hidden 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
ian storey 11/May/13 Lead O/S

just don't look down at the start.

with rob sutton
iccy 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul
rockpool 05/May/13 AltLd

led 1st pitch , just gets better every time i climb it

tim.fairhall 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Matt
Kate Edhouse 04/Apr/13 TR

Decided to top rope it to see what it was like before a possible lead, did everything but the fall across, but it started to know, so no lead.

with jake parrish
Hidden 23/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/13 2nd O/S
steve.warrington 09/Mar/13 AltLd dnf

Lead first pitch fine to belay. Heavy rain as stu started second pitch(resulting in us needing resque)

with Stuart Llewellyn
Alex the Alex ?/Feb/13 AltLd

Awesome slab, we went off exploring on the second pitch. No idea what we ended up on.

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
neilh ??/2013 -
AlexD 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1, quite a hard move rocking round onto the slab. start easy but atmospheric with waves bursting up from below! thought 2nd pitch was great, dont know why the guide says it lets it down.

with Marti
Marti999 21/Oct/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/12 2nd
Jams Crwca 19/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Craig giving me the beta on where the holds were. Didn't find route easy but at the grade.

with Craig
MartinN 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

lead p1 on route to Midnight Cowboy, great fun

Tim Hamlet 21/Aug/12 Lead
Stuart William 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P1 - Matt P2 - Me

with Matt Reynolds
Bex_M 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

1st pitch

with Duncan Dunbar
peter.ravenscroft27 29/Jul/12 AltLd
tim exley 28/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Stephen Shaw 24/Jul/12 AltLd
with simon
gb05 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Luke Vincent, Jojo Mills
martin clarke 22/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead
alexjz 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Lead 1st pitch and traversed to the midnight cowboy belay for the link. Good pitch, the first infamous move didn't seem as hard or scary as it was made up to be.

with Simon Kemper
Julie Carroll 22/Jul/12 AltLd

Lead top pitch

with Mark
Felix Ottey 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Great route!!! crossing the zawn was fine and contary to the guide book description the top pitch was great!

Hidden 07/Jul/12 TR rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 26/May/12 Lead O/S
climbhannahclimb 23/May/12 2nd O/S

start is hard if you're not even 5ft! good fun

with Andy Hunter
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead O/S
HansUDes 21/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/12 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 20/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 Tim P2

with Elliot Spooner, tim exley
MontyH 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
tim exley 08/May/12 AltLd β

1st pitch

with Mark G
MGrock 08/May/12 AltLd
Ybot Htulk 07/May/12 AltLd
with Duncan
Country_Boy 06/May/12 AltLd β

I Led P1, Toby led P2. The two committing moves on P1 were mentally challenging, but not too difficult once figured out. Really Satisfying. P2 really pleasant.

with toby
Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd
Matt Smith 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

P1, even being 6'4 means the fall across is still a slight stretch :) Nice climbing though.

with Harri Honan
BDA - changed 12/Mar/12 2nd
with Gav Kelly, Mark Meardon
Fatclimber 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Gald I didn't lead P1.

with Lee
davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -

Lots of options on pitch one. At least 3 ways of going going over the overlap (left, middle and RH end)and possible to traverse right at any level at 4c/5a.

Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
pffft ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jojo Mills, Gareth Brading
Hidden ?/Nov/11 -
Dave Ing 17/Oct/11 Lead O/S

At the start, there's no fall if you're tall! Good route, even the top pitch although some gardening was needed.

BB1 17/Oct/11 2nd

The start is a massive stretch if you're 5'4" (like me) and you might find a side pull slightly lower and off to the left of the spike more helpful. Well done to Dave for a great lead. Fantastic atmospheric climb. WOW!

with Dave Ing
d_meacher 17/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Richard Patterson
Ben Russell 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
alice fuller 04/Oct/11 2nd O/S
nroyal 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with GF
Kirill 24/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

with Charles Mason, Chris Donica
cem 24/Sep/11 Lead rpt

P1 only

Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Laura Hamlet 22/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Short first pitch! Let Tim do all the leading because of this (and because I didn't fancy the horrible vegetated end!) Go Timbo (and his sketch belay) :)

Elaine Budden 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

lead second pitch, 1st was fantastic

El3ctroFuzz 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Quite hard for the grade around the belay area i thought.

with Elaine Budden
The Ivanator 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Great first pitch. I led P2, not as bad as the guidebook makes out.

with Rich
Rich God 3 28/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
rfdl100 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Did first pitch, finished up top pitch of Sexilegs

with Simon Waters
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
surf1nal-kern0w 03/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd dog
Jonathan Hall 26/Jun/11 Lead

With Cowboy finish

highfivekrissy 05/Jun/11 AltLd
peter myers ?/Jun/11 AltLd
steve prior ?/Jun/11 Lead
with Andy C
DOVEY 25/May/11 Lead
with Andrew
Hidden 22/May/11 AltLd
r_findlay 22/May/11 AltLd

Lead first pitch

Donald Kelly 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Second on first pitch. Lead on the second pitch. Legs only just reached across the gap! First pitch is a lot easier than it looks from the other side of the gap.

with Matt C&C
jimmysdead 28/Apr/11 AltLd

Lead 1st Pitch. Pre-clipped 1st cam!

Lxaddison 27/Apr/11 AltLd
with Paul Addison
andy dunn 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

P1 only

with Alan
kdalzell 25/Apr/11 2nd

1st pitch

Liam FLeming 25/Apr/11 Lead
jkarran 23/Apr/11 Lead

*** with the excellent Midnight Cowboy finish.

with Pete
petellis 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S

P1 into Midnight Cowboy after opting out of the lead.

petellis 23/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Could do the fall across move OK but didn't fancy comitting to the nasty steepness on the other side.

Chris Sansum 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Gary Lewin
mullermn 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Gap looks a lot worse than it really is. This route is like a museum of dead and abandoned gear!

Kylie 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Got a bit worked up at the start but its easy when you know how. Second pitch was very enjoyable.

Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead
Kevster 26/Mar/11 Lead
sammycolon 26/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
DanLear 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

me 1st pitch

with Andy Pemberton
BelayBunney 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Great first pitch with an exciting step/controlled fall over the zawn! Second pitch is ok, but consists of mainly picking your way up the slab and through the vegetation at the top! Good fun though!

Hidden 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S
francois 12/Mar/11 2nd
chakrit 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with steve read
jezb1 30/Jan/11 AltLd

Nice route

jon59 ??/2011 -
paddymitton ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead β
djromberg ??/2011 -
Craig Geddes 12/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Chris Goddard
Hidden 10/Oct/10 AltLd
rfdl100 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Stu Barclay, Simon Waters
Chris the Tall 24/Sep/10 AltLd

Vic did the crux (falling across the zawn), I led top pitch - not as bad as described

with Vic
Ben 22/Sep/10 TR O/S
with Petroc College
Dizz 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Got lost and climbed too high - hanging belay, think I finished up one of the E1 second pitches!Think the step across may be harder than 4c if you are 5'6!

with daveyj
twodada 12/Sep/10 AltLd

I lead the first pitch. Great climb.

with Stuart Barcly
Hidden 13/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Alaister Nurse 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. All 3 on hanging belay before 2nd pitch.

with Ben Lees, Mark Nurse
3kidsandanorton 10/Jul/10 AltLd

I led 1st pitch; Pete 2nd pitch

with Pete Templar
teflonpete 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Tried to lead the first pitch but couldn't bridge my foot across. Managed seconding it after Barry lead it. enjoyed leading the second pitch.

with Barry
stuart34 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd rpt
nick hawkins 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

led P1

with steve
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead
vertically_challenged 02/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 2nd β
Julesthe1st 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Paul Wolf
jcg_100 23/May/10 2nd dog

Couldn't get over the arete at the first time of asking

with Billy
Shonkhor 22/May/10 Lead

Found myself quite critically run out and underneath a tough section of the slab at top of P2 (off route?) - had a top rope sent down to make the loose vegetated finish safe. P1 & start of P2 quality

with Jim
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz ?/May/10 -
with Clare
31770 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Ian Johnson
BeckyBrown1989 14/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/10 AltLd
stvredmond 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch. was it me of did this get a bit run out?

Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
BorisVBlade 07/Feb/10 Lead dog

Took two falls. Handhold came off on the first one!

with Guillaume Billardon
RachaelB 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Nic led first pitch with scary fall across the Zawn. I managed it eventually but put my left foot up first - couldnt reach with my right - whilst keeping hand on the big jug. First few bits of gear hard to place. I did second pitch which was lovely - some nice delicate traverses and rockovers, but easy for the 4b grade.

with Nic Fleming
MGrock ??/2010 -
Joolz ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
simonwaters5 ??/2010 2nd O/S

Richard led. What a first move! Getting up onto slab harder.

with Richard Lizzimore
TP ??/2010 Lead
nblackbeard 13/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Pitch one

with Tom Grant
Hidden 28/Oct/09 AltLd
tcfield 25/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Richard Gamble 27/Sep/09 2nd
with Mark B
Andrew1 20/Sep/09 Lead
with Trys Negus
Hidden 15/Sep/09 2nd O/S
surfbish 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Interesting start but the rest a bit disappointing.

with Tom
Hidden ?/Sep/09 2nd
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/09 Lead
mattf77 19/Aug/09 AltLd

rich did first tricky moves, i lead easy slab above

with rich
lithos 16/Aug/09 Lead
rockjedi12345 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Phill and Steve
gripped01 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with RAFMA
Richard Morgan 01/Jul/09 AltLd β

Lead 2nd pitch after pumping out and lowering off the crux on the first pitch. First time at Baggy, lovely spot! PS the sign said the bird ban ended on the 30th June this year so Long Rock is open.

Ybot Htulk ?/Jul/09 AltLd


with Richard
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead
simon kimber 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Hamish Rowe
SteveM 02/May/09 AltLd O/S

Faffed about on the start. Took a belay below the first lot of flakes so that Kat could do most of the slabs.

with Kat
kitkat78 02/May/09 AltLd

Steve did the start, I did the slabs

with SteveM
w.pettet-smith ?/May/09 Lead

didn't have a guidebook.started on the beach and went up a nice corner thing, passed a bailout peg/ nut arrangement then (i think) hooked up with kinky boots. then fell asleep on top of the cliff. a nice day out.

with claire jane carter
tom169 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Cherry
mark schramm 23/Mar/09 AltLd

first pitch mine! tee hee

Alex Thompson 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Started in fading light - finished in the moonlight (easier without a headtorch).

Hidden 11/Mar/09 2nd
jon thompson27 ?/Mar/09 -
with Alex Thompson
maresia 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

I went too far and belayed from the midnight cowboy stance (after being told to keep going further!) Certainly made it harder than VS. The first moves are quality!

culmclimberRob 08/Jan/09 Lead rpt

lead all in one pitch but 2nd wasnt feeling up to it so abbed back down to remove gear which i must admit was good fun!!!! trying to keep on the rock and not in the open air of the cave below lol

paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Ybot Htulk ?/Dec/08 AltLd
with Ben
Hidden 01/Nov/08 Lead
Vojta 24/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Adrian Botting
culmclimberRob 18/Oct/08 Lead rpt
with mark. MC
Hidden 12/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd dog
MoWalker3 13/Sep/08 -
with Cormac
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Stuart Wildman 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Rob Sykes
djking1983 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Rhys Jones ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd
cem 26/Jul/08 2nd

P 1 only as we moved on to Peeping Tom & then Straight & Narrow

Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead rpt
givemetea 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S

First move was easier than anticipated. Wasn't too happy with the gear available for the belay at the end of the traverse but the route was fun.

Hidden 03/Jul/08 2nd
dougross 02/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Started raining half way...cheeky

with Andy P
pipboujalay ?/Jul/08 Lead
with ben
Tim W 25/May/08 AltLd rpt
climbingVet 24/May/08 Lead O/S

Lead in one pitch. Unable to find suitable anchors to create multipitch unless done just after the zawn. Had a long rope, so went for it. Again crumbly rock towards the top and heavy vegetation meant protection placing was v. hard, with rocks disloging when weight-bearing. Scary as hell due to wind and rock conditions.

with Nathan Chiswick
erica 10/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch (4b). Difficult(but fun)start if you're 5'6". Hardest move was pulling over 2nd overlap. Fantastic weather, great end to holiday.

with John
John Brayshaw 10/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1

with Erica
Tom Last 04/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Wouldn't want to fall off with the state of the gear. Great route.

with Clive
Hidden 25/Apr/08 2nd
00nip 28/Feb/08 Lead

lead first pitch, seconded pitch 2

with Eddy Barnes
mark_ja_drury ??/2008 Lead β

Lead first pitch, retreated when started raining heavily.

with S. Scarrat
existing debt ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
John Lisle ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
fishinwater ?/Oct/07 2nd
with RD
richw2k2 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Monika
brady 08/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Phil led first pitch

with Phil Arnold
Blisco 08/Sep/07 2nd
with Peter Shone, Nick Hirst
Hidden 08/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
brian watson ?/Sep/07 -
mrtom 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Did the first pitch. Absolutely cracking, loved it. Totally mad! :)

with Ian Rickerby
Lev 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
John Kettle ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
stevieo10 ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with craig
Jon Evans 25/Jul/07 AltLd


with Paul
Dave Searle 21/Jul/07 Lead
with sim
misterb 21/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

mark led 1st pitch ,i went off on second pitch, it pissed down for 45 mins , good laugh , it dried and i finished with no drama .

with mark
thomasadixon 14/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch. First move didn't feel the most awkward!

with Christian
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jul/07 Lead
luke2442 ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Did in a single pitch- great gear until the top section which is a little loose

Jim Malo ?/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/07 AltLd rpt
Ybot Htulk ?/Jun/07 AltLd
with Dave
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
prawn ?/Jun/07 2nd
with Graham
kenneM ?/Jun/07 Lead
with Bobby Hewitt, Danny Reilly
Hidden 20/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/May/07 AltLd dog
upontop ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Jhan
gregarding 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with J. Ford
eley1 ?/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with gareth
climber sim ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
John Lisle ??/2007 -
mark_ja_drury ??/2007 2nd β
with Dave King
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
sebrider ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Emma Ransome
Mr Tickle ??/2007 2nd O/S
with greg arding
sea_lene ??/2007 Lead O/S
AJH 14/Oct/06 2nd
with Richard
Marq 17/Sep/06 AltLd O/S


with Daniel Dennehy
gareth r 10/Sep/06 AltLd β

Had to to the starting move again to retrieve cam stuck on the other side. My lead on P1. Solid 4c

with Dave S
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead
CJE 08/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Haynes
manwithacam ?/Sep/06 AltLd

The start gets one going. Def easier the taller u are.

with Martin
Julia Chatterton 30/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Loved the first move, then the rain came in and got drenched before i had started the 150ft second pitch - still enjoyed it though!

with Will
sgl 29/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Konnie
Rob84 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Awesome route - deserves 3 stars instead of 1

with Jim D
Hidden 14/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
cas54321 14/Aug/06 2nd
with Mike
tumbling wizard 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
pc1983 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/06 2nd O/S
mikelaing ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Carolyn
gaz.marshall ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Steev
cas54321 ?/Aug/06 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 27/Jul/06 Lead
snowcat 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

After falling across the zawn managed to step across then bridge back to the starting side - not quite as bad as anticpated. Set up a rope running down to the top of the climb from the first stake to use as a belay. Advisable as the top of the climb really unsafe and broken and the grass very steep up to the stake. Great, hot summer day but very few climbers - they probably all think the bird ban lasts until July tee hee!

with Steve Orrell
Daniel Wrightson 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Oli lead the first pitch

Oliver Sherman 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Cool first move. Couldn't brige the gap with my feet (bit too inflexible for that game). Wonder how many people miss the first hold?

featuresforfeet 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Patrick
Dan Shirley 07/Jul/06 2nd O/S
culmclimberRob ?/Jun/06 2nd
with mark. MC
Hidden 09/May/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with unknown
Hidden ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Ady Short
Danhan 10/Sep/05 Lead

Led the first pitch :)

with Nick
Phil West 12/Aug/05 Lead dnf
with Shaun Walby
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd
rockpool ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S

we done it twice to both experience leading the start

with pol
rob1 12/Jun/05 AltLd
with Dave Williams
BillyDavies 01/May/05 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd
migs493 13/Jan/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/04 2nd
Mark_RMC 09/Oct/04 2nd

A now legendary ascent. Having made it across the zawn I fell off back into the hole. Not many people know that the route is much harder below the start. This provided entertainment foe everyone at the dinner meet.

with Davin
Hidden 29/Aug/04 AltLd rpt
Owen W-G 07/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Rigby
charlesmfrench 11/Jul/04 Lead rpt


Chad123 ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Various
mikeyjbs 03/May/04 Lead O/S
with jeremy leicester, dan, paul kenny, hans allnut, simon ball, farrow
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pete Sanderson
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pete Sanderson
timharrison ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S

Got lost on the first pitch, it took 45 minutes. Got off route on the second pitch, it took two hours. Paul got stuck at the top with his foot in a sling, he didn't realise he was actually over the top.

with Paul Channing
Hidden ??/2003 -
jmhood ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Richard Everson
chris sm 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 22/Jun/02 Lead
with Emma Postlethwaite
nickdonohue ?/Mar/02 AltLd
with Ian Brenton
nige pacer 06/Nov/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/01 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
brianrunner ??/2001 AltLd
with martina
tuftynick ??/2001 Solo O/S
with Boza
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Boxy 05/Aug/00 AltLd O/S


Hidden 18/Jun/00 -
Hidden 10/Jun/00 AltLd
Hidden 05/May/00 Lead
plain kitten ?/May/00 Lead
Hidden 11/Mar/00 2nd
climberguy ??/2000 2nd O/S
bullybones ??/2000 -
NickP ??/2000 -
Hidden 09/Oct/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/99 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/99 -
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
FrankW 20/Feb/99 Lead O/S
with Unknown
pigeonjim ??/1999 2nd O/S
markpollak ??/1999 Lead O/S
with suzanne mcfadzean
IanGilbertJones 13/Apr/98 Lead O/S
cornishben ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Andy Connor
tomkhoward ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with Stu (SICMC)
prometheus ??/1998 Lead
with Martin
Mickdenali ??/1998 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 27/Oct/97 AltLd
with Bill McKee
goi.ashmore 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S

All pitches

with James Tracey, Tony Logan
Adrian Daniels 05/Jul/97 Lead
with Steve Webster
leadmat ??/1997 Lead
with Graham Fleury
leadmat ??/1997 Lead
with Graham Fleury
Brian Rodgers ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Dave Oldacres
Kevster ??/1997 -
andyfeds ??/1997 Lead
with Andy C
andy_pemberton ??/1997 AltLd
michaelb1 ?/Jun/96 Lead

Fab climb

pezzerrr ??/1996 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/95 Lead O/S
colin milton 19/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden 06/May/95 AltLd O/S
JiveWeasel ??/1995 AltLd
with Exeter El Presidente
ColdAndWet ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/94 -
Hidden ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
kristian ?/Nov/93 AltLd
Raggar 08/Aug/93 AltLd
with Pete K
GAtkins 01/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Linus
sdht ??/1993 -
Hidden 08/Aug/92 -
nai ?/Feb/92 AltLd
with Roger Devy
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
tlr 19/Oct/91 AltLd
with Cal
andrew300169 19/Oct/91 AltLd O/S
with Tim
whispering nic 19/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Ali W
Andy Say 26/Apr/91 2nd
auld al ?/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1991 2nd
Iain Thow 25/Oct/90 Lead
with Rob Ivens
Hidden 06/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Babika ?/Jul/90 AltLd O/S

Led the top pitch

with Mark Jones
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1990 Lead
with Therry Cooper
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
AndrewP ??/1990 AltLd
DrIan ??/1990 Lead

Lead both pitches - great route - fall across...just fall :) cam placement under the flake and off..

kp64zl ?/Dec/89 AltLd
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1988 2nd O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Chris Thomas, Philip Scorer
Hidden 02/Oct/87 Lead O/S
Tom V 16/Aug/87 -
with Howie Darwin
Nigel Bond 12/Oct/86 Lead
with Bryn Roberts
Hidden 28/Jun/86 -
babymoac 25/May/86 Lead
with MTW
Simon cook ??/1986 -
mikej 15/Sep/85 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Hidden 21/Aug/84 Lead O/S
Richard Weller 12/May/84 Lead

First pitch only. Finished up Midnight Cowboy

with Rory O'Connor
TonyF 01/May/84 Lead O/S
with Dar, Ian Birkinshaw
Tony Kartawick ?/May/84 Lead O/S

super fun

with Jan Kartawick
malc 14/Apr/84 AltLd O/S
with JW
climbhigher0 18/Mar/84 2nd O/S

Excellent as a start to Midnight Cowboy. Felt pretty easy, but I wasn't ready to lead again after the previous day...

with Andy Saunders
John Marsland ?/Jun/83 -
Ena ??/1983 Lead

Cocked up first pitch and had to tie a rope off...

with Martin Trouse
Hidden ??/1983 Lead O/S
tapley 06/Oct/82 AltLd
with Chris Seymour
Hammy 17/Aug/81 AltLd
with Rob Lawson
beaumap 26/Jun/81 Lead
with Martin Davis
mark-abz 07/Jun/81 Lead
with Andy W
rogerskews 08/Aug/80 AltLd
with Keith Jenkins
Andy Chubb 21/Jun/80 -
with Geoff Barker
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Norman_P_W ??/1980 -
Rob Davies 01/Sep/79 Lead

Lean across at narrowest point, then shuffle to reach holds

with Angus McLean
Ken Taylor 16/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Chris Lloyd
Hidden ?/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Mike C 14/May/78 Lead
with Pete Vallely
Mike C 29/Apr/78 2nd
with Kevin Howett
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/77 AltLd
with Chris Lloyd
Hidden ??/1976 -
Dave Musgrove 27/May/72 AltLd
with Alex Webster
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Style of ascent
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