Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
The first few moves are a Baggy legend. Start by abseiling, or down climbing, the descent ridge to a small ledge about 12m above the base of the zawn. Opposite is a small flat downward pointing spike that touches the edge of the overhanging zawn wall.
1) 4c, 20m. Not a pitch for the short! Fall across the zawn to reach the spike and pull across on good holds. Move steeply up to the edge of the slab and pull around onto it. Move right and slightly upwards to a peg before traversing 7m right, either high or low, to a stance on a small sloping red/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 4b, 34m. Reverse the traverse back left to the peg, and climb up above it heading for a square-cut flake. Before reaching the flake, move leftwards on the best rock and then take the cleanest line above with care to the top'. © Rockfax
Dave Johnston, Ben Wintringham 19/Oct/1969.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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RichPacker | 29 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Rock to place cam for the chasm crossing is wobbly, advice setting up an anchor for belayer on the first pitch. Found getting onto the slab harder than the crossing | ||
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βeta: Rock to place cam for the chasm crossing is wobbly, advice setting up an anchor for belayer on the first pitch. Found getting onto the slab harder than the crossing |
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ssutton | 22 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Belay stake is near the foot of the pile of rocks, buried in a patch of campion. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Belay stake is near the foot of the pile of rocks, buried in a patch of campion. |
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Bruise Apprentice | 29 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: The "old thread" on P2 no longer exists. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The "old thread" on P2 no longer exists. |
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phil456 | 11 May, 2019 |
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βeta: P2, is close to 43m than 34m stated here. The belay at the top is difficult to find, see picture | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: P2, is close to 43m than 34m stated here. The belay at the top is difficult to find, see picture |
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Grade: VS ***
(The Exmoor Coast Traverse)