Kinkyboots* VS 4c
[Kinkyboots, 4 kb]

Rockfax Description
The first few moves are a Baggy legend, but unfortunately the upper pitch lets the route down. The first pitch provides an excellent alternative to the first pitch of Midnight Cowboy, should the tide be in. Start by abseiling or downclimbing the descent ridge to a small ledge, about 12m above the base of the zawn. Opposite is a small flat spike that touches the edge of the overhanging zawn wall.
1) 4c, 20m. Not a pitch for the short! Fall across the zawn to reach the spike and pull across on good holds. Move steeply up to the edge of the slab and pull around onto it. Move right and slightly upwards to a peg before traversing 7m right, either high or low, to a stance on a small sloping reddy/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 4b, 34m. Reverse the traverse back left to the peg, and climb up above it heading for a square-cut flake with an old thread. Before reaching the flake, move leftwards on the best rock and then take the cleanest line above with care to a stake belay. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, West Country Climbs, South West Climbs for a Northerner, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Baggy point road to ruins HVS.

Photo: Kinkyboots © BALD EAGLE
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This climb is in 528 logbooks, and on 91 wishlists.

Thrutchy. If you're 5'6 and climb VS- give this a miss. Pull through blocks quite tasty.
zimpara - Lead dnf - 08/Oct/15 with rob

AEH - 2nd dog - 26/Sep/15 with Christian Mertes

Gaz of Bath - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/15

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Sep/15

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/15

Led p1. Some great moves and pitch 2 is actually good climbing, top out chossy though
fizzychewitt - AltLd - 05/Sep/15 with John Norman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/15

JulianB - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/15 with Pete Randall

Pete Randall - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/15 with Julian B

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/15

Ended up backing off the second pitch as it was definitely quite dark! After reading comments about the quality of the second pitch it seemed like the best idea. High tide so bit of a mission getting everything back! Left a nut and a screwgate on the first pitch if anyone fancies retrieving them? :)
OllieF - AltLd dnf - 17/Aug/15 with Chris Rees

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/15

Phileas Fauntleroy - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/15 with James Cully

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/15

P1 only. Kinky Cowboy
timreynolds - Lead - 25/Jul/15 with Tommasso Benacchio

"escaped" up the top pitch after I fell in the sea wading across to start Midnight Cowboy at a rising tide (Jack's idea), did not fancy HVS 5B with soaking wet everything and no chalk so did this instead... top pitch is absolutely horrific! loose, hard to protect and generally not very pleasant
dbrooks - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Jack Southward

Andrea lead P1. The fall across turned out to be the easy bit on the first pitch. Getting your legs across is the tricky bit, I contemplated this a great deal with hands on one face, feet on the other and the water below. P2 is just horrific, the gear is thin, the rock questionable and there are long run out sections.
Hamish777 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Andrea

Overrated. I got the best deal-lead 1st pitch and Hamish got the second which isn't the best rock quality.
andrea83 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Hamish

The "fall across" is only a reach out if you're tall enough.
Skip - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/15

Started to regret agreeing to lead the first pitch when I got down there, but it looks a lot worse than it actually is! Brilliant climb, deserves a better rating in the guide book. Lead p1.
alexbarry - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/15 with Skip

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/15

Hidden - Lead - Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/15

smartydh9 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/15

TP - 05/Apr/15 with Helen F

Fantastic route! Loved every move, Led P2 totally disagree with the book stating "P2 lets it down" Nice straightforward slab climbing on steady-ish Rock
Jackislav - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/15

AngelaC - 2nd - 21/Mar/15 with Rick Sewards

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/15

adamre12 - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/15 with James Ayres

jon59 - Lead - 04/Mar/15

Hidden - Lead rpt - Feb/15

led P1
Matt Harmon - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/15 with Anna Duckett

Anna duckett - AltLd - 18/Jan/15 with Matt H

James1483 - 2nd - 2015 with robin

Big Rog - 2015

Big Rog - 2015

Jontheroofer - 2015

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/14 with luke rooker

Finished up long rock eliminate
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/14 with jamie ward

found crossing easy.then faffed around in blazing sun for ages at the rusted peg spot,changing piece of gear,twice! left me very dehydrated and bit pumped.fell off after several attempts at strenuous pull onto slab crux.pete finished pitch pulling onto slab lower down.i then led 2nd pitch.its a bit run out towards the top,with some loose rock,but enjoyable.
minexplorer - AltLd - 03/Oct/14 with pete

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Sep/14

timdi - Lead O/S - Sep/14

P1 only, Rog led. (Kinky Cowboy)
Stroppy - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Alex Thomson, Roger Kirke

First pitch as start to midnight cowboy. Thought the reach/fall was straight forward but the move onto the slab was hard. Fantastic pitch.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Becky E

1st pitch only - finished on Midnight Cowboy.
Becky E - 2nd - 16/Aug/14 with Graeme Hammond

Tom Seccombe - AltLd rpt - 15/Aug/14 with Kev Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/14

Ed led first pitch, I led second
dmaldonado - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Ed Walker

Start was fantastic and not as hard as it looks. Slab above felt quite run out for VS. Top pitch is awful and dangerous. Avoid!
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Alex P

beckett45 - 03/Jul/14

LOVED it. Pull through legendary!! Traversed to high on first pitch, which made it unnecessarily heart pounding. Dad Led 2nd pitch which is surprisingly good quality
peter.ravenscroft27 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Dad

jhb0510 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Andy March

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14

chrisdevon - 2nd - 23/Jun/14 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14

Led all the route now jobs a gooden
mike hooper - AltLd - 31/May/14 with jobey martin

led first pitch, Mike led second
Joby - AltLd β - 31/May/14 with Mike Hooper

Done as one pitch. The start was very unusual and enjoyable, but the rest had a lot of loose rock (between very slightly loose and frightening). Quite run out between the good gear placements sometimes. It felt like most bits of gear in the upper 1/3 were in bits of rock the were not 100% solid and most moved at least very slightly when hit!
CurlyStevo - Lead - 29/May/14 with CraggyJohn

Led P1, Tim P2 in the rain
Joemanglerocks - AltLd - 24/May/14 with Dave Marshall, Tim Knight

P1 all in the head. Led P2 and found a nice route up, in the rain
TimKnight - AltLd O/S - 24/May/14 with Dave Marshall, Paul Anker

great first pitch, second pitch scrappy and vegetated, so glad to tick it off though!
Matthew Martin Wsm - Lead - 14/May/14 with ian marshall

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/14

great first move
crater - 2nd - 04/May/14 with steve

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14

ChristyCole - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/14

BenFord893 - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

After the brilliant first pitch i was thinking, 'how bad can the second be to drag the star rating down'. Loose hollow sounding flakes and a grass top out to finish. Marcus slipped off reversing the traverse. Took me a little while to commit to the falling across move.
arandall - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/14 with Marcus Hague, Isaac Whitcombe

Rough tide below, made for the notorious first pitch to be extra special!
Will Mortimer - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Doug Miller, Chris Joyce

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Mar/14

08nbrierley - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with jamie

Adam Hill - 08/Mar/14

Led P2. Some nervy moments with the massive, booming flakes. I've never been less reassured by a thread runner!
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Viskii Chicu

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/13

illwizod - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13 with Hazel Izod

Hidden - Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/13

JonnySchofield - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13

Pero - AltLd - 24/Aug/13

First pitch only, the traverse from the peg to the stance is quite bold.
petegunn - AltLd - 12/Aug/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/13

Bede - AltLd - 11/Aug/13 with Ben, Tony Smith

Peri led P1, I led P2. Needed to pull on a sling which Peri had deliberately left dangling for me - I was at full stretch on the falling across move and couldn't reach the positive edge and the spike - anyone who is 5'1-5'2 should not attempt this on lead! The rest of P1 was quite easy. Don't expect to find much gear on P2, and beware, Rockfax provides an incorrect length for P2. Peri hadn't used much rope for the belay but I'd nearly run out of rope by the time I reached the belay stake, which puts P2 at about 45-47 metres.
mariannekhoo - AltLd dog - 11/Aug/13 with Peri Cheal

martin one - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Russel scummer

Hidden - 10/Aug/13

kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Ian Cramman

Led 1st pitch - I was just about OK at a shade under 5'5" but still had to climb up to the starting holds. Also managed to find a particularly blank, hard and worrying line on the traverse to the belay - doh!
oscaig - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Kim Mulji

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/13

Phileas Fauntleroy - Lead O/S - Aug/13 with James Cully, James Latus, Dan Gorvett

James1483 - 2nd - Aug/13 with james, dan, robin

Darrell Read - Lead - 27/Jul/13 with Emma Whittaker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13

(YES) I am tall enough to lean across the first move :-). And what lovely move they are. Gone from my wishlist led first pitch
mike hooper - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with jobey martin

steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13

Lead p1 and then reversed p1, the starting moves are harder in reverse....
jezb1 - Lead - 04/Jul/13

Andy Moles - 2nd - 03/Jul/13 with Tom Powell

Hidden - 2nd β - 01/Jul/13

Struggled being 5"2 in the first move. .. had to climb down and lean across with the help from a sling to get back up to the usual jug. Lead pitch 2 which is fantastic.
Kate Edhouse - AltLd - 28/Jun/13 with gerwen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/13

Bit of an epic. Lead first pitch, but partner couldn't make the first move. Abbed down to the beach, scrambled back up then abbed from the top, cleaned the first pitch and top roped directly out
adam 24 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/13

great start, with fallover then pull up over blocks. the traverse a bit blank.. 2nd pitch not great
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Dave Wynne jones

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/13

Adrian Daniels - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with John Parrott

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13

just don't look down at the start.
ian storey - Lead O/S - 11/May/13 with rob sutton

iccy - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

Lumbering Oaf - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Paul

led 1st pitch , just gets better every time i climb it
rockpool - AltLd - 05/May/13 with matt box

Led P1
tim.fairhall - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Matt

Decided to top rope it to see what it was like before a possible lead, did everything but the fall across, but it started to know, so no lead.
Kate Edhouse - TR - 04/Apr/13 with jake parrish

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/13

Lead first pitch fine to belay. Heavy rain as stu started second pitch(resulting in us needing resque)
steve.warrington - AltLd dnf - 09/Mar/13 with Stuart Llewellyn

Awesome slab, we went off exploring on the second pitch. No idea what we ended up on.
Alex the Alex - AltLd - Feb/13

Nick Biven - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Andy Chadwick - 2013

neilh - 2013

Led p1, quite a hard move rocking round onto the slab. start easy but atmospheric with waves bursting up from below! thought 2nd pitch was great, dont know why the guide says it lets it down.
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Marti

Marti999 - AltLd rpt - 21/Oct/12 with Alex Dennis

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Oct/12

Craig giving me the beta on where the holds were. Didn't find route easy but at the grade.
Jams Crwca - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Craig

MartinN - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Bernard Stricker

lead p1 on route to Midnight Cowboy, great fun
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12

Tim Hamlet - Lead - 21/Aug/12 with Laura Hamlet

P1 - Matt P2 - Me
Stuart William - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Matt Reynolds

1st pitch
Bex_M - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Duncan Dunbar

peter.ravenscroft27 - AltLd - 29/Jul/12

tim exley - AltLd rpt - 28/Jul/12 with pete ravenscroft

Stephen Shaw - AltLd - 24/Jul/12 with simon

gb05 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Luke Vincent, Jojo Mills

martin clarke - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with chris floss_81

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jul/12

Lead 1st pitch and traversed to the midnight cowboy belay for the link. Good pitch, the first infamous move didn't seem as hard or scary as it was made up to be.
alexjz - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Simon Kemper

Lead top pitch
Julie Carroll - AltLd - 22/Jul/12 with Mark

Great route!!! crossing the zawn was fine and contary to the guide book description the top pitch was great!
Felix Ottey - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/12

Hidden - TR rpt - 07/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Nancy Jones

start is hard if you're not even 5ft! good fun
climbhannahclimb - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with Andy Hunter

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/12

HansUDes - 2nd O/S - 21/May/12 with JA Thomson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/12

Led P1 Tim P2
Tom Seccombe - AltLd O/S - 20/May/12 with Elliot Spooner, tim exley

MontyH - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Pete Frost and Paul Milton

1st pitch
tim exley - AltLd β - 08/May/12 with Mark G

MGrock - AltLd - 08/May/12

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 07/May/12 with Duncan

I Led P1, Toby led P2. The two committing moves on P1 were mentally challenging, but not too difficult once figured out. Really Satisfying. P2 really pleasant.
Country_Boy - AltLd β - 06/May/12 with toby

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/12

P1, even being 6'4 means the fall across is still a slight stretch :) Nice climbing though.
Matt Smith - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Harri Honan

BDA - changed - 2nd - 12/Mar/12 with Gav Kelly, Mark Meardon

Led P2. Gald I didn't lead P1.
Fatclimber - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Lee

davidtrelawnyross - 2012

Ian JL - 2012

Lots of options on pitch one. At least 3 ways of going going over the overlap (left, middle and RH end)and possible to traverse right at any level at 4c/5a.
alan moore - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

JonG - 2012

alan moore - 2012

pffft - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jojo Mills, Gareth Brading

Hidden - Nov/11

At the start, there's no fall if you're tall! Good route, even the top pitch although some gardening was needed.
Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/11 with Bridgette

The start is a massive stretch if you're 5'4" (like me) and you might find a side pull slightly lower and off to the left of the spike more helpful. Well done to Dave for a great lead. Fantastic atmospheric climb. WOW!
BB1 - 2nd - 17/Oct/11 with Dave Ing

d_meacher - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/11 with Richard Patterson

Ben Russell - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Oct/11

nroyal - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/11

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11 with GF

led 1st pitch
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Charles Mason, Chris Donica

P1 only
cem - Lead rpt - 24/Sep/11 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11

Short first pitch! Let Tim do all the leading because of this (and because I didn't fancy the horrible vegetated end!) Go Timbo (and his sketch belay) :)
Laura Hamlet - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Tim Hamlet

lead second pitch, 1st was fantastic
Elaine Budden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with tom bunn

Quite hard for the grade around the belay area i thought.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Elaine Budden

Great first pitch. I led P2, not as bad as the guidebook makes out.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Rich

Rich God 3 - AltLd - 28/Jul/11 with The Ivanator

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/11

Did first pitch, finished up top pitch of Sexilegs
rfdl100 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Simon Waters

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

surf1nal-kern0w - 2nd - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd dog - 03/Jul/11

With Cowboy finish
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 26/Jun/11 with Edward O'Connel

highfivekrissy - AltLd - 05/Jun/11 with Pete Myers

peter myers - AltLd - Jun/11 with Krissy Humble

steve prior - Lead - Jun/11 with Andy C

DOVEY - Lead - 25/May/11 with Andrew

Hidden - AltLd - 22/May/11

Lead first pitch
r_findlay - AltLd - 22/May/11 with stu_buchan43

Second on first pitch. Lead on the second pitch. Legs only just reached across the gap! First pitch is a lot easier than it looks from the other side of the gap.
Donald Kelly - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Matt C&C

Lead 1st Pitch. Pre-clipped 1st cam!
jimmysdead - AltLd - 28/Apr/11

Lxaddison - AltLd - 27/Apr/11 with Paul Addison

P1 only
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Alan

1st pitch
kdalzell - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with Liam Fleming

Liam FLeming - Lead - 25/Apr/11

*** with the excellent Midnight Cowboy finish.
jkarran - Lead - 23/Apr/11 with Pete

P1 into Midnight Cowboy after opting out of the lead.
petellis - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Cleric James Koran

Could do the fall across move OK but didn't fancy comitting to the nasty steepness on the other side.
petellis - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/11 with Cleric James Koran

Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Gary Lewin

Gap looks a lot worse than it really is. This route is like a museum of dead and abandoned gear!
mullermn - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Kylie Richards

Got a bit worked up at the start but its easy when you know how. Second pitch was very enjoyable.
Kylie - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with mullermn

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 26/Mar/11

Kevster - Lead - 26/Mar/11

sammycolon - 2nd - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11

me 1st pitch
DanLear - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Andy Pemberton

Great first pitch with an exciting step/controlled fall over the zawn! Second pitch is ok, but consists of mainly picking your way up the slab and through the vegetation at the top! Good fun though!
BelayBunney - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Catherine, Francois

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/11

francois - 2nd - 12/Mar/11 with Catherine, Chris

chakrit - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with steve read

Nice route
jezb1 - AltLd - 30/Jan/11

jon59 - 2011

paddymitton - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

CptRicActiv - Lead β - 2011

djromberg - 2011

Craig Geddes - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/10 with Chris Goddard

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Oct/10

rfdl100 - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Stu Barclay, Simon Waters

Vic did the crux (falling across the zawn), I led top pitch - not as bad as described
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 24/Sep/10 with Vic

Ben - TR O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Petroc College

Got lost and climbed too high - hanging belay, think I finished up one of the E1 second pitches!Think the step across may be harder than 4c if you are 5'6!
Dizz - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/10 with daveyj

I lead the first pitch. Great climb.
twodada - AltLd - 12/Sep/10 with Stuart Barcly

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Lead both pitches. All 3 on hanging belay before 2nd pitch.
Alaister Nurse - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Ben Lees, Mark Nurse

I led 1st pitch; Pete 2nd pitch
3kidsandanorton - AltLd - 10/Jul/10 with Pete Templar

Tried to lead the first pitch but couldn't bridge my foot across. Managed seconding it after Barry lead it. enjoyed leading the second pitch.
teflonpete - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Barry

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/10

led P1
nick hawkins - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with steve

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/10

vertically_challenged - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd β - Jun/10

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Paul Wolf

Couldn't get over the arete at the first time of asking
jcg_100 - 2nd dog - 23/May/10 with Billy

Found myself quite critically run out and underneath a tough section of the slab at top of P2 (off route?) - had a top rope sent down to make the loose vegetated finish safe. P1 & start of P2 quality
Shonkhor - Lead - 22/May/10 with Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/May/10

Steve Lenartowicz - May/10 with Clare

31770 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Ian Johnson

BeckyBrown1989 - 2nd - 14/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/10

Led the second pitch. was it me of did this get a bit run out?
stvredmond - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Sean mercer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/10

Took two falls. Handhold came off on the first one!
BorisVBlade - Lead dog - 07/Feb/10 with Guillaume Billardon

Nic led first pitch with scary fall across the Zawn. I managed it eventually but put my left foot up first - couldnt reach with my right - whilst keeping hand on the big jug. First few bits of gear hard to place. I did second pitch which was lovely - some nice delicate traverses and rockovers, but easy for the 4b grade.
RachaelB - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/10 with Nic Fleming

MGrock - 2010

Joolz - Lead - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Richard led. What a first move! Getting up onto slab harder.
simonwaters5 - 2nd O/S - 2010 with Richard Lizzimore

TP - Lead - 2010

Pitch one
nblackbeard - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Tom Grant

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Oct/09

tcfield - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/09

Richard Gamble - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with Mark B

Andrew1 - Lead - 20/Sep/09 with Trys Negus

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/09

Interesting start but the rest a bit disappointing.
surfbish - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - Sep/09

rich did first tricky moves, i lead easy slab above
mattf77 - AltLd - 19/Aug/09 with rich

lithos - Lead - 16/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/09

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with RAFMA

Lead 2nd pitch after pumping out and lowering off the crux on the first pitch. First time at Baggy, lovely spot! PS the sign said the bird ban ended on the 30th June this year so Long Rock is open.
Richard Morgan - AltLd β - 01/Jul/09 with Toby Kluth

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - Jul/09 with Richard

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/09

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Hamish Rowe

Faffed about on the start. Took a belay below the first lot of flakes so that Kat could do most of the slabs.
SteveM - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with Kat

Steve did the start, I did the slabs
kitkat78 - AltLd - 02/May/09 with SteveM

didn't have a guidebook.started on the beach and went up a nice corner thing, passed a bailout peg/ nut arrangement then (i think) hooked up with kinky boots. then fell asleep on top of the cliff. a nice day out.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - May/09 with claire jane carter

tom169 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Cherry

first pitch mine! tee hee
mark schramm - AltLd - 23/Mar/09

Started in fading light - finished in the moonlight (easier without a headtorch).
Alex Thompson - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/09 with Jon Thompson

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Mar/09

jon thompson27 - Mar/09 with Alex Thompson

I went too far and belayed from the midnight cowboy stance (after being told to keep going further!) Certainly made it harder than VS. The first moves are quality!
maresia - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Iain Afshar

lead all in one pitch but 2nd wasnt feeling up to it so abbed back down to remove gear which i must admit was good fun!!!! trying to keep on the rock and not in the open air of the cave below lol
culmclimberRob - Lead rpt - 08/Jan/09 with stevieo10

paulh1967 - 2009

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - Dec/08 with Ben

Hidden - Lead - 01/Nov/08

Vojta - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/08 with Adrian Botting

culmclimberRob - Lead rpt - 18/Oct/08 with mark. MC

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead - Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Sep/08

MoWalker3 - 13/Sep/08 with Cormac

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Stuart Wildman - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Rob Sykes

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Rhys Jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/08

Rhys Jones - Aug/08 with Dave King

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/08

P 1 only as we moved on to Peeping Tom & then Straight & Narrow
cem - 2nd - 26/Jul/08 with Andy Buckley

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/08

First move was easier than anticipated. Wasn't too happy with the gear available for the belay at the end of the traverse but the route was fun.
givemetea - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Hannah Heywood

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/08

Started raining half way...cheeky
dougross - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/08 with Andy P

pipboujalay - Lead - Jul/08 with ben

Tim W - AltLd rpt - 25/May/08 with Jamie Moss

Lead in one pitch. Unable to find suitable anchors to create multipitch unless done just after the zawn. Had a long rope, so went for it. Again crumbly rock towards the top and heavy vegetation meant protection placing was v. hard, with rocks disloging when weight-bearing. Scary as hell due to wind and rock conditions.
climbingVet - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Nathan Chiswick

Led top pitch (4b). Difficult(but fun)start if you're 5'6". Hardest move was pulling over 2nd overlap. Fantastic weather, great end to holiday.
erica - AltLd O/S - 10/May/08 with John

Led pitch 1
John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 10/May/08 with Erica

Led 2nd pitch. Wouldn't want to fall off with the state of the gear. Great route.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 04/May/08 with Clive

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/08

lead first pitch, seconded pitch 2
00nip - Lead - 28/Feb/08 with Eddy Barnes

Lead first pitch, retreated when started raining heavily.
mark_ja_drury - Lead β - 2008 with S. Scarrat

existing debt - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

John Lisle - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07

fishinwater - 2nd - Oct/07 with RD

richw2k2 - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Monika

Phil led first pitch
brady - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Phil Arnold

Blisco - 2nd - 08/Sep/07 with Peter Shone, Nick Hirst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/07

brian watson - Sep/07

Did the first pitch. Absolutely cracking, loved it. Totally mad! :)
mrtom - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Ian Rickerby

Lev - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Emma Ross

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07

John Kettle - Lead O/S - Aug/07

stevieo10 - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with craig

Jon Evans - AltLd - 25/Jul/07 with Paul

Dave Searle - Lead - 21/Jul/07 with sim

mark led 1st pitch ,i went off on second pitch, it pissed down for 45 mins , good laugh , it dried and i finished with no drama .
misterb - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/07 with mark

Lead first pitch. First move didn't feel the most awkward!
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/07 with Christian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07

tumbling wizard - Lead - Jul/07

Did in a single pitch- great gear until the top section which is a little loose
luke2442 - Lead O/S - Jul/07

Jim Malo - 2nd - Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 17/Jun/07

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - Jun/07 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/07

prawn - 2nd - Jun/07 with Graham

kenneM - Lead - Jun/07 with Bobby Hewitt, Danny Reilly

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/May/07

Hidden - AltLd dog - 20/May/07

upontop - AltLd O/S - May/07 with Jhan

gregarding - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with J. Ford

eley1 - Lead O/S - Jan/07 with gareth

climber sim - 2007

climber sim - 2007

John Lisle - 2007

mark_ja_drury - 2nd β - 2007 with Dave King

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2007

sebrider - Lead O/S - 2007 with Emma Ransome

Mr Tickle - 2nd O/S - 2007 with greg arding

sea_lene - Lead O/S - 2007

AJH - 2nd - 14/Oct/06 with Richard

Marq - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Daniel Dennehy

Had to to the starting move again to retrieve cam stuck on the other side. My lead on P1. Solid 4c
gareth r - AltLd β - 10/Sep/06 with Dave S

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/06

CJE - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/06 with Chris Haynes

The start gets one going. Def easier the taller u are.
manwithacam - AltLd - Sep/06 with Martin

Loved the first move, then the rain came in and got drenched before i had started the 150ft second pitch - still enjoyed it though!
Julia Chatterton - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/06 with Will

sgl - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/06 with Konnie

Awesome route - deserves 3 stars instead of 1
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/06 with Jim D

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/06

cas54321 - 2nd - 14/Aug/06 with Mike

tumbling wizard - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/06

pc1983 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/06

mikelaing - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Carolyn

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Steev

cas54321 - 2nd - Aug/06 with Mike

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/06

After falling across the zawn managed to step across then bridge back to the starting side - not quite as bad as anticpated. Set up a rope running down to the top of the climb from the first stake to use as a belay. Advisable as the top of the climb really unsafe and broken and the grass very steep up to the stake. Great, hot summer day but very few climbers - they probably all think the bird ban lasts until July tee hee!
snowcat - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/06 with Steve Orrell

Oli lead the first pitch
Daniel Wrightson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Oli sherman

Cool first move. Couldn't brige the gap with my feet (bit too inflexible for that game). Wonder how many people miss the first hold?
Oliver Sherman - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Dan Wrightson

featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Patrick

Dan Shirley - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/06

culmclimberRob - 2nd - Jun/06 with mark. MC

Hidden - Lead - 09/May/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06

beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2006 with unknown

Hidden - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Urgles - Lead O/S - Dec/05 with Ady Short

Led the first pitch :)
Danhan - Lead - 10/Sep/05 with Nick

Phil West - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/05 with Shaun Walby

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/05

we done it twice to both experience leading the start
rockpool - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with pol

rob1 - AltLd - 12/Jun/05 with Dave Williams

BillyDavies - Lead - 01/May/05

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Nov/04

A now legendary ascent. Having made it across the zawn I fell off back into the hole. Not many people know that the route is much harder below the start. This provided entertainment foe everyone at the dinner meet.
Mark_RMC - 2nd - 09/Oct/04 with Davin

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Aug/04

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/04 with Rigby

charlesmfrench - Lead rpt - 11/Jul/04

Chad123 - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with Various

mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 03/May/04 with jeremy leicester, dan, paul kenny, hans allnut, simon ball, farrow

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/04

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03

Got lost on the first pitch, it took 45 minutes. Got off route on the second pitch, it took two hours. Paul got stuck at the top with his foot in a sling, he didn't realise he was actually over the top.
timharrison - Lead O/S - Jun/03 with Paul Channing

Hidden - 2003

jmhood - Lead O/S - 2003 with Richard Everson

chris sm - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/02 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/02

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 22/Jun/02 with Emma Postlethwaite

nickdonohue - AltLd - Mar/02 with Ian Brenton

nige pacer - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/01

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Nov/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/01

Stone Muppet - 2001

brianrunner - AltLd - 2001 with martina

tuftynick - Solo O/S - 2001 with Boza

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/00

Boxy - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/00

Hidden - 18/Jun/00

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/00

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/00

plain kitten - Lead - May/00

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Mar/00

climberguy - 2nd O/S - 2000

bullybones - 2000

NickP - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/99

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Jul/99

Hidden - 18/Jul/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/99

FrankW - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/99 with Unknown

pigeonjim - 2nd O/S - 1999

markpollak - Lead O/S - 1999 with suzanne mcfadzean

IanGilbertJones - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/98

cornishben - Lead O/S - 1998 with Andy Connor

tomkhoward - AltLd O/S - 1998 with Stu (SICMC)

prometheus - Lead - 1998 with Martin

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - 1998

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 27/Oct/97 with Bill McKee

All pitches
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/97 with James Tracey, Tony Logan

Adrian Daniels - Lead - 05/Jul/97 with Steve Webster

leadmat - Lead - 1997 with Graham Fleury

leadmat - Lead - 1997 with Graham Fleury

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 1997 with Dave Oldacres

Kevster - 1997

andyfeds - Lead - 1997 with Andy C

andy_pemberton - AltLd - 1997

Fab climb
michaelb1 - Lead - Jun/96

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/95

colin milton - AltLd - 19/Aug/95 with eric milton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/95

JiveWeasel - AltLd - 1995 with Exeter El Presidente

ColdAndWet - Lead - 1995

Hidden - 05/Aug/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/94

kristian - AltLd - Nov/93

Raggar - AltLd - 08/Aug/93 with Pete K

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/93 with Linus

sdht - 1993

Hidden - 08/Aug/92

nai - AltLd - Feb/92 with Roger Devy

Marti999 - Lead - 1992

tlr - AltLd - 19/Oct/91 with Cal

andrew300169 - AltLd O/S - 19/Oct/91 with Tim

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/91 with Ali W

Andy Say - 2nd - 26/Apr/91

auld al - AltLd O/S - Apr/91

Hidden - 2nd - 1991

Iain Thow - Lead - 25/Oct/90 with Rob Ivens

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/90

Led the top pitch
Babika - AltLd O/S - Jul/90 with Mark Jones

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1990 with Therry Cooper

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

AndrewP - AltLd - 1990

Lead both pitches - great route - fall across...just fall :) cam placement under the flake and off..
DrIan - Lead - 1990

kp64zl - AltLd - Dec/89

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1988

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1988 with Emily

davidalcock - 1988 with Chris Thomas, Philip Scorer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/87

Tom V - 16/Aug/87 with Howie Darwin

Nigel Bond - Lead - 12/Oct/86 with Bryn Roberts

Hidden - 28/Jun/86

babymoac - Lead - 25/May/86 with MTW

Simon cook - 1986

mikej - AltLd - 15/Sep/85 with Mike Byles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/84

First pitch only. Finished up Midnight Cowboy
Richard Weller - Lead - 12/May/84 with Rory O'Connor

TonyF - Lead O/S - 01/May/84 with Dar, Ian Birkinshaw

super fun
Tony Kartawick - Lead O/S - May/84 with Jan Kartawick

malc - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/84 with JW

Excellent as a start to Midnight Cowboy. Felt pretty easy, but I wasn't ready to lead again after the previous day...
climbhigher0 - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/84 with Andy Saunders

John Marsland - Jun/83

Cocked up first pitch and had to tie a rope off...
Ena - Lead - 1983 with Martin Trouse

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1983

tapley - AltLd - 06/Oct/82 with Chris Seymour

Hammy - AltLd - 17/Aug/81 with Rob Lawson

beaumap - Lead - 26/Jun/81 with Martin Davis

mark-abz - Lead - 07/Jun/81 with Andy W

rogerskews - AltLd - 08/Aug/80 with Keith Jenkins

Andy Chubb - 21/Jun/80 with Geoff Barker

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Chris Craggs - 1980

Norman_P_W - 1980

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/79 with Chris Lloyd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/79

D Tempest - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/78

Mike C - Lead - 14/May/78 with Pete Vallely

Mike C - 2nd - 29/Apr/78 with Kevin Howett

Chris Terrey - AltLd - Jun/77 with Chris Lloyd

Hidden - 1976

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 27/May/72 with Alex Webster

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andrewmcleod, Michael Aylen, andycash, SenzuBean, Dexter JW, Martin Brierley, saz_b, DanChad, robertcollier, rosie1068, simonjkinsella, crag_whitelamb, StuartP, mussonlr, OllieF, cd_smiffy, CMCM, Jack Whiteley, erbridger, Danbow73, Jamiet297, khalidq, jt232, Paul Hy, Blake, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Kate Edhouse, DrewWilkins, schristophersmith, mag_to_grid, alexporter, ChrisBrooke, MartinN, speekingleesh, olllie26, iksander, Ander, eglwyseg-andy, solenostomus, John Tanner, tgeh, jimmysdead, klimmer, Dan Shirley, leonjones, iceaxejuggler, Crazyguy, Alan100, Boulderdash86, hrgcb, surfboybert, tdudley, Aaron Phillips, BB1, Shonkhor, Ropeboy, taz_116, MattT88, csd23, bendurance, Warren Earle, tobydunford, Nix Ward, rob askew, Flax, Simon Fyfe, Simon Caldwell

Total votes cast 201
hard HVS0 of 69
HVS0 of 69
easy HVS2 of 69
hard VS10 of 69
VS54 of 69
easy VS2 of 69
hard HS1 of 69
HS0 of 69
easy HS0 of 69
hard 5a0 of 69
5a0 of 69
easy 5a3 of 69
hard 4c8 of 69
4c56 of 69
easy 4c2 of 69
hard 4b0 of 69
4b0 of 69
easy 4b0 of 69
3 Stars34 of 63
2 Stars24 of 63
1 Star5 of 63
0 Stars0 of 63
Bag of .....0 of 63
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat