White Shark*** IV 4
[white shark, 2 kb]110m. climb to the right of Aquafresh and the left of Gondola with the Wind
C. Millar, R.G. Webb 27/Jan/1990

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: white shark © jolly
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This climb is in 122 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

In decent nick - a bit of cruddy snow ice here and there, and screws weren't great but on the whole good ice for climbing
Rob84 - AltLd - 19/Mar/15 with John Roberts

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/15

Led a single short pitch of good ice to the ledge. Excellent route.
nclarey - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/15 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Mar/15

First 2 pitches only. Superb ice but large cornice and dodgy approach slopes.
fuzzysheep01 - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/15 with Karl Stewart

Finally found route after deep wade from Easy Gully. P1 nice and long, and sufficiently steep. P2 climbed continuation ice, but then headed left onto wide ledge to obvious pegs and tag. Rightwards exit looked too steep for IV, but appears to be the true line. Abbed off from tat due to unknown but certainly large cornice situation, and late hour (we still missed the flippin' gondela!).
Karlos - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/15 with Joe Norris

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/15

Split into 4 pitches. Cornice turned on the right but quite soft to get through.
MartF - AltLd - 15/Feb/15 with carl_123

Good nick. Easy day
John Workman - AltLd - 14/Feb/15 with Billy, Lex

Soloed first pitch and brought up second on insitu tat. Crux is melting which made for an interesting step out right.
davkeo - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/15 with Cearbhall Daly

cearbhalld - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/15 with Dave Keogh

Incredible route! split the steep ice pitch in two after seeing the pegs and glory, then realised I'd dropped lee right in it. Stuff in the shade was still solid, bits in the sun where no way near perfect. Very warm.
smithjmw46 - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/15 with Lee Musson

mussonlr - AltLd - 10/Feb/15 with Josh Smith

Good ice. Traversed a long way right (above Maneater I think) to cut the cornice.
arose - AltLd - 08/Feb/15 with Helen Rennard

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jan/15

Dougbart - AltLd - 04/Jan/15 with Iain

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Led pitch one, Adrian set a belay to the side of the steep ice pitch, I led but backed off at the top bulge as it was snow ice and didn't think a screw would hold if I fell. Ab down. Enjoyable day, shame we didn't finish but will be back!!
Adamski1986 - AltLd dnf - 18/Jan/14 with Adrian Wilson

Definitely out of condition. Abed off after pitch 1. Will come back next year.
Andy Syme - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/13 with Al Goodridge

Abbed off after P1. Rotten ice. Scary.
Kirill - AltLd dnf - 17/Mar/13 with Mike Moss

First 2 pitches only. Top pitch melting.
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/13 with Andrew Wielochowski

Scott Rankin - AltLd - 24/Feb/13

Gordon Lacey - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13

malc - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/13 with Paul Scott

ramsy71 - 2nd - 21/Feb/13 with k

6aPunter - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/12

kenneM - Lead - 15/Feb/12 with Paul Elliott

lead final pitch.
paul91 - 2nd - 15/Feb/12 with mike kennedy

Led P1.
RedFox - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/12 with Mike W

BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/12 with Sam Thompson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12

k1,n2,j3. nice route, not perfect ice but good enough. mono's kept ripping making me wish i had duals at times. fun. windy and pish viz.
sneaks - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with janey, Neil C

RKernan - AltLd dog - 27/Jan/12 with Conor Gilmour

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jan/12

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Jan/12

jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 15/Jan/12

andybroadway - 2nd - 14/Jan/12 with Jeremy Morris

Liam FLeming - 2012 with simon edwards

ashpreston - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/11

Quality route. Definately felt like V,5 today with some sustained steep climbing below the easy ground at the top.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/11 with Ryan Wilson

Steep for IV and didn't find too much good gear - the ice was good for the axes but abit soft for screws. Was very pleased to see the hole in the cornice at the top - prevented trying to dry tool up an off-width chimney! Led P1 and P3.
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Ian Moore

Found the route in pretty good nick, although screws not 100% & needed to clear a bit of joss for good ice. Lead P2 which was steepest V 4 to date. Many thanks to the cornice tunneler! Top notch route.
Mountain Llama - AltLd - 06/Mar/11 with Paul S

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/11

Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/11 with Alex Desborough

as others have noted, pretty steep for IV!
morsy - AltLd - 12/Feb/11 with gerhard mors

Led P1. Great route. Phil had to tunnel through the cornice.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Phil Lee

Cornice falling down!
smcw - Lead O/S - Feb/11

joeydurkin - AltLd - 30/Jan/11 with Patch

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jan/11

Felt like V,4 or V,5 on the day. I belayed lower than the usual ledge so led the whole of the steep part in one. Thanks go to the unknown heroes who had dug a hole through the cornice on a previous day!
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/11 with John Barker

The route was in the sun all day so the ice was very soft which meant screws were just pulling out. There was a tunnel through the cornice.
chapmand - AltLd - 27/Jan/11 with Jon Sanders, Guy Wilson

Guy Wilson - 27/Jan/11 with Jon Sanders, Dave Chapman

Aonach Mor seems to be in very good condition today. Led P2, which was quite steep for the grade. Good fun.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 26/Jan/11 with Scott Kirkhope, Dave Buckett

robinsi197 - AltLd - 23/Jan/11 with Bryn

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11

ice at the start of the 2nd pitch off the belay was pretty steep, probs V
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/11 with J.Monypenny

adie84 - 2011

31770 - 2011

luckyjim - AltLd - 2011 with A Cameron

I led P1, Neil led P2. Very warm day, around 4 degrees at 900m. Quite lean and what ice and snow there was in the gully was pretty mushy / worrying. Not much gear if you can't get ice screws in :(
stuaart - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/10 with Neil Redgrave

Abbed of 2nd pitch, not in condition
gripped01 - AltLd - 12/Dec/10 with Dave Tait

Hidden - Lead - Dec/10

Found climb in low vis. V fat snow ice. Bottom pitch good steep 4. 2nd pitch full on 80 degree for 10m+ - give it tech 5 on the day. Su dropped off traversing back down into line with axes in v soft steep snow. Biggest cornice ever on the top, 15m! Abbed off. Class route.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/10 with su

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - Mar/09

Ended up climbing pitch 1 of White Shark and then the final pitch of Aquafresh, due to the final pitch of White Shark looking like it would collapse. Turns out the final pitch of Aquafresh was probably just as serious!
Ken Applegate - Lead - 23/Feb/09 with Dave Buckett, Hannah Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Feb/09

Climbed pitch 1&2, due to lack of ice finished up Aquafresh (IV,4*).
Merlin - AltLd dnf - 23/Feb/09 with Alex Elliot

Coming in from Aquafresh from the 1st pitch. The 2nd pitch of White Shark was quite steep for a grade IV; more like V. Very good ice. Shame about a rest on ice axe.
Skinny Kin - Lead dog - 20/Feb/09 with Piotr Bamberski

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/09

Dunx - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/09 with Joe M, Adam

adamscottthomas - AltLd - 02/Feb/09 with Andy Wardle

good ice, steep in corner with about 1m cornice at top, steeper finish than Typhoon
alan wilson - Solo O/S - Jan/09

Mark Salter - AltLd O/S - Jan/09 with Myles Jordan

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/09

benclimbing - AltLd O/S - Jan/09

centurion05 - 2009

simon_D - AltLd - 29/Dec/08 with Roger C

gregor - Mar/08

Hidden - Feb/08

Led both pitches, very delicate move through the cornice about 40ft above last gear.
Andrew Sloan - Lead rpt - 20/Jan/08 with Steve Grove

garethMottram - 2008 with Charlie Netherton, Ed Lemon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/07

galpinos - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/07 with Tim

Mainly good ice, tad thin in parts.
alaan - AltLd - 11/Feb/07 with Jim

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 11/Feb/07

First pitch only.
alaan - 2nd - 21/Jan/07 with Jim and Mat

mattyork2 - 2nd dnf - 21/Jan/07 with alaan and jim

stokesrees - AltLd - 12/Jan/07 with Peter Mackenzie

luckyjim - AltLd - Mar/06 with A Cameron

Joe Nunn - 2006 with mik preece

SteveM - AltLd - 13/Mar/05 with KeithW

Sandy P - Lead - Mar/05 with LukeO

Abbed off below cornice.
Gman - AltLd - Mar/05 with Steve, Carl

Excellent route, great conditions
petehaz - 2nd O/S - Feb/05 with Eoin

seanyt - AltLd - Feb/05

konacol - AltLd - 29/Jan/05 with Robert McMurray

climbtim - 2nd - 27/Jan/05

Good ice, steep. Excellent
uphillnow - Lead - 26/Jan/05 with Phil Gibson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jan/05

keith leonard - AltLd - 2005 with steve mead

Chris L Hill - 2nd - 21/Feb/04 with Di Gilbert, Stuart Shaw

DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Feb/04 with J. Ellson

akhughes - AltLd O/S - Feb/04

Jim Haydock - 2nd - 12/Mar/03 with Dave Hollinger

kato'sdad - 2nd - 21/Feb/02 with Giles Trussel

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Lead - Mar/00

Hidden - Mar/00

NeilGriffiths - 2000 with Adrian Pedley, Paul Tucker

Hidden - AltLd - 2000

Led long and run-out top pitch (bomber neve' but no good for screws so just kept going and going)
oscaig - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Steve Reeves

plain kitten - 2000

Felt hard..climbing with Allan and Thomas
markharro - AltLd - 25/Jan/98 with Allan

Smith42 - 01/Apr/97

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mmmhumous, Adamski1986, JonmapDL, iksander, JanBella, Billy Walker - Bad Seller, karinh, Ian Jones, ksneds, martinazando, stevez, Dustin, vincentvega, Superchop75, lawrenceK, andybuckley, execlimber, gareth r, Watty

Total votes cast 98
hard V0 of 34
V1 of 34
easy V7 of 34
hard IV15 of 34
IV11 of 34
easy IV0 of 34
hard III0 of 34
III0 of 34
easy III0 of 34
hard 50 of 34
51 of 34
easy 519 of 34
hard 43 of 34
410 of 34
easy 40 of 34
hard 31 of 34
30 of 34
easy 30 of 34
3 Stars20 of 30
2 Stars9 of 30
1 Star1 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat