Slippery Slab** VS 5a
[Olly Wheeldon making his way up slippery slab, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
When dry, the thin crack in the upper slab of Black Zawn's right wall is a must. Start at the back of the zawn.
Pull up onto easy rock and climb to the smooth corner left of the slab. Place a high runner in the smooth corner and then descend to a point level with an open groove at the base of the slab. Make a perplexing step right across the groove to the slab and climb a tiny corner to a small ledge halfway up the slab. Finish up the still tricky crack above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Olly Wheeldon making his way up slippery slab © John Henry Wynn
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 118 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Just really did not feel happy in the grungy corner and could not commit to moving higher towards dubious holds. Backed off, and in no rush to return. I;m sure the slab is great, but the start is gross.
manbat - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/15 with Luke Randall

Committing step and awesome afterwards. Worth seeking out!
partz - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/15 with Johnny Webb

Really cool moves and sustained all the way to the top. I would say it's deserving of 2 stars
JonnyW - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/15 with Matt Everett

Wet and slippy, as expected- luckily all the needed holds were nicely chalked by my go. Luke took a mini fall on the reachy strenuous crux move to the jug, but wasn't deterred.
JoeCoxson - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Luke Gorman

very wet, slipped off the lay back and landed on the ledge. Twisted ankle swollen for a couple of days. No big deal
lukegorman - Lead dog - 28/Sep/14 with Joe Coxson

Mark Kemball - Lead - 29/Jul/14 with Solly Kemball Dorey

Lovely, 3 stars, continuously interesting, really enjoyed this!
andrea83 - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Hamish

Hamish777 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Andrea

jhb0510 - 2nd rpt - 08/Jul/14 with Min

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/14

jhb0510 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Paul Hooper

MinHazeldine - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

Good route, quite hard.
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/13 with Si

aljezurusrf08 - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Tom

TommyC - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Nick Donohue

Hard for the grade; feels sustained and insecure, gear adequate but not overly endowed
nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/12 with Tom ?

Merrick796 - Lead - 08/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/12

SamChessell - 2nd O/S - 28/May/12 with George King

andybenham - 2nd rpt - 26/May/12 with Mark Sharples

The step is puzzling, but joy when you get it. Many enjoyable moves above, really good route
John Tanner - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Gideon Mordecai

gidmord - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with John Tanner

mark sharples - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Andy Benham

gingerking - Lead O/S - May/12 with Sam Chessell

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/12

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Theo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11

Seems to be a few different options for protecting the "perplexing" step-across. I had a high runner in slippery chute, not sure how people got protection in the V groove. Awesome route.
simoncov - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Andy Redhead

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/11 with Tim Styles

timstyles - 2nd β - 21/Jun/11 with Jon Bradley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11

a13x - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11 with Suzy Howat

ben bowry - 2nd O/S - Jun/11 with Matthew Murphy

Rather more 5a moves than should be allowed at VS I thought.
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney

The perplexing move is good value and the crack above feels like a lot of 5a moves too. Well worthwhile.
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics

jakenichol - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11

To warm up. Lower reaches where very greasy but the slab itself was fine. Definitely 5a in places but well protected and never very strenuous. A satisfying route for sure, deserving of its 2 stars in Rockfax.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Matt

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 05/Mar/11 with Luke

Jacob k-d - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/10

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Pete Ellis

petellis - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Alaan

adam cooper*super* - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with mike waller

alaan - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/10 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/10

chrisallan - Lead dnf - 13/Jun/10

sweenyt - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with UBMC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/10

Master Chief - 2nd O/S - 05/May/10 with Jeremy

Hidden - Lead - May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/10 - Lead - 01/Apr/10 with jamesca

Hidden - Lead - 06/Mar/10

Lovely pitch
andybenham - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/10 with Ben

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09

Such an awsome line.
John Henry Wynn - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Will Murray

Will_Murray - 2nd - 04/Jul/09 with Jay Jackson

Will_Murray - 2nd - 04/Jul/09 with oliverwheeldon1

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - Jun/09

jominator - Lead O/S - 2009 with wu

paulh1967 - 2009

pelvoux - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Nick

dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes Chris Barr

sharmawho? - Lead O/S - 2008 with oli, chris

tomtherockboy - Lead - 2008

ccrowle - Lead O/S - Nov/07 with Matty boy

Noodles30 - Lead - Oct/07

The_Boy_ODwyer - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/07 with Nick

zcapxa5 - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/07 with Jenni Young

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/07

jfreeman - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with Steve Rigler

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/May/07

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Rebecca Holland

Beck Holland - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Dan_Carroll

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2007

drysori - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/06

Lives up to its name, one to do in the shade.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/06 with Nick Smith - UKC

Sidekick - Lead O/S - Jun/06

JPGR - 2nd - 29/Apr/06 with Andy

cem - 2nd - 16/Apr/06 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2006

ewen - Sep/05

Urgles - Lead O/S - Jun/03 with Laura

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - 2nd - 10/May/03

Hidden - Lead - Aug/02

phardman - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2001

Stone Muppet - 2001

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jul/00

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/00 with Ian Brown

andy_pemberton - 2000

NickP - 2000

Carl Simmons - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/99

timreynolds - Lead - 03/May/99 with David Baines

craig h - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/97 with Janet Hannah

belay bunny turned bad - Lead - 1997

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/96

colin milton - Lead - 29/Apr/95 with eric milton

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Apr/94 with Alison Dorey

biggianthead - Jun/90 with C

Mike Owen - 30/Aug/89 with Chris Craggs

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/87 with Tim Oakes

Richard Weller - Lead - 26/May/85 with Pete Dewdney

keefe - 1985

Hidden - 1978

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 08/Jun/77

Nigel Bond - Lead - 10/Apr/74 with Alan

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Blake, SurferStan, Lumbering Oaf, Dilwat, Ropeboy

Total votes cast 79
hard HVS0 of 27
HVS1 of 27
easy HVS3 of 27
hard VS18 of 27
VS5 of 27
easy VS0 of 27
hard HS0 of 27
HS0 of 27
easy HS0 of 27
hard 5b0 of 28
5b0 of 28
easy 5b0 of 28
hard 5a15 of 28
5a11 of 28
easy 5a2 of 28
hard 4c0 of 28
4c0 of 28
easy 4c0 of 28
3 Stars3 of 24
2 Stars19 of 24
1 Star2 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat