Rockfax Description
When dry, the thin crack in the upper slab of Black Zawn's right wall is a must. Start at the back of the zawn.
Pull up onto easy rock and climb to the smooth corner left of the slab. Place a high runner in the smooth corner and then descend to a point level with an open groove at the base of the slab. Make a perplexing step right across the groove to the slab and climb a tiny corner to a small ledge halfway up the slab. Finish up the still tricky crack above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
SuperLee1985 04/Aug Lead O/S

An absolutely superb climb, simply glorious slab climbing, with a contrasting first section. The crack eats nuts all the way up, feet are thin in places but its steady, no particular crux. The corner looks pretty uninviting until you are right beneath it and then this imaculate slab just pops out at you.

climbingisgreat 23/Jul 2nd O/S
with Adrian Moore, Ruth Moore
roryferris 18/Jul Lead O/S
Cecilewannaclimb 06/Jul Lead
with Matt
chrismadar 10/Jun Lead O/S
kateharborne 10/Jun 2nd β
Lumbering Oaf 02/Jun 2nd O/S

Good. Bit wet in corner but it doesn't matter really as there're some great holds about.

with Mark
Hidden ?/Jun Lead O/S
spenser 29/May Lead

Glad I didn't fall off, the traverse, falling into the corner would hurt.

with Mike Hayes, Tony Howard
natlavender 28/May Lead O/S
with Sue Luck, Sue Haseltine, Malcolm Phelps
Rob Davies 17/May Lead dnf

Tried to climb lower groove to reach the thin crack but it was wet.

with Phil Ashton
Dilwat 21/Apr Lead

Two attempts, the first resulted in me slipping (when in Rome??) off the move to the small ledge on the slab. So dropped down and repeated clean the second attempt. This is a great climb, with a really thoughtful move across and up onto the slab, which can be protected if you have the right gear. The main crack/s are just brilliant. 3 stars.

with Dave P
manbat 29/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Just really did not feel happy in the grungy corner and could not commit to moving higher towards dubious holds. Backed off, and in no rush to return. I;m sure the slab is great, but the start is gross.

with Luke Randall
partz 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Committing step and awesome afterwards. Worth seeking out!

JonnyW 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Really cool moves and sustained all the way to the top. I would say it's deserving of 2 stars

JoeCoxson 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Wet and slippy, as expected- luckily all the needed holds were nicely chalked by my go. Luke took a mini fall on the reachy strenuous crux move to the jug, but wasn't deterred.

lukegorman 28/Sep/14 Lead dog

very wet, slipped off the lay back and landed on the ledge. Twisted ankle swollen for a couple of days. No big deal

Mark Kemball 29/Jul/14 Lead
with Solly Kemball Dorey
andrea83 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Lovely, 3 stars, continuously interesting, really enjoyed this!

with Hamish
Hamish777 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Andrea
jhb0510 08/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Min
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead
jhb0510 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Paul Hooper
MinHazeldine 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Tom Last 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Good route, quite hard.

with Si
aljezurusrf08 03/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Tom
TommyC 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Nick Donohue
nickdonohue ?/Sep/12 Lead

Hard for the grade; feels sustained and insecure, gear adequate but not overly endowed

with Tom ?
Merrick796 08/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 17/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
SamChessell 28/May/12 2nd O/S
andybenham 26/May/12 2nd rpt
John Tanner 26/May/12 Lead O/S

The step is puzzling, but joy when you get it. Many enjoyable moves above, really good route

gidmord 26/May/12 2nd O/S
with John Tanner
mark sharples 26/May/12 Lead O/S
gingerking ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead dnf
Ed morris 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Theo
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
simoncov 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Seems to be a few different options for protecting the "perplexing" step-across. I had a high runner in slippery chute, not sure how people got protection in the V groove. Awesome route.

with Andy Redhead
jon bradley 21/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Tim Styles
timstyles 21/Jun/11 2nd β
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
a13x 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Suzy Howat
ben bowry ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Rather more 5a moves than should be allowed at VS I thought.

crossdressingrodney 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S

The perplexing move is good value and the crack above feels like a lot of 5a moves too. Well worthwhile.

jakenichol 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
lrandall 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S

To warm up. Lower reaches where very greasy but the slab itself was fine. Definitely 5a in places but well protected and never very strenuous. A satisfying route for sure, deserving of its 2 stars in Rockfax.

with Matt
Hidden 05/Mar/11 2nd
Jacob k-d 03/Oct/10 2nd O/S
mattyork2 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
petellis 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Alaan
adam cooper*super* 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with mike waller
alaan 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Pete
Hidden ?/Aug/10 2nd
chrisallan 13/Jun/10 Lead dnf
sweenyt 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with UBMC
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
Master Chief 05/May/10 2nd O/S
with Jeremy
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 01/Apr/10 2nd O/S
whiting.jp 01/Apr/10 Lead
with jamesca
Hidden 06/Mar/10 Lead
andybenham 24/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Lovely pitch

with Ben
Hidden 11/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
John Henry Wynn 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Such an awsome line.

with Will Murray
Will_Murray 04/Jul/09 2nd
with Jay Jackson
Will_Murray 04/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead
jominator ??/2009 Lead O/S
with wu
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Martin Bennett 12/Jun/08 -
with RA
pelvoux 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Nick
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes Chris Barr
sharmawho? ??/2008 Lead O/S
with oli, chris
tomtherockboy ??/2008 Lead
ccrowle ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Matty boy
Noodles30 ?/Oct/07 Lead
The_Boy_ODwyer 12/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Nick
zcapxa5 11/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jenni Young
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
jfreeman ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Rigler
Hidden 06/May/07 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 05/May/07 Lead dnf

Couldn't move R, as usual, so finished up Slippery Chute

with Phil Ashton
Dan_Carroll 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 09/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 2nd O/S
drysori ??/2007 -
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/06 Lead O/S
adam carless 19/Jul/06 2nd O/S

Lives up to its name, one to do in the shade.

Sidekick ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
JPGR 29/Apr/06 2nd
with Andy
cem 16/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 -
ewen ?/Sep/05 -
nigehughes ?/Sep/03 2nd
with Kev Lomax, Dave Whalley (Hevs)
Mark Davies ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Samuel P 10/May/03 2nd
with Bob, Luke
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
phardman 19/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Hidden 30/Jul/00 AltLd
stuart100 16/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Ian Brown
andy_pemberton ??/2000 -
NickP ??/2000 -
Carl Simmons 31/Jul/99 2nd O/S
timreynolds 03/May/99 Lead
with David Baines
craig h 21/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/96 2nd
colin milton 29/Apr/95 Lead
with eric milton
Mark Kemball 16/Apr/94 Lead
with Alison Dorey
biggianthead ?/Jun/90 -
with C
Mike Owen 30/Aug/89 -
with Chris Craggs
RichardMc 17/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Tim Oakes
Richard Weller 26/May/85 Lead
with Pete Dewdney
keefe ??/1985 -
Rob Davies 01/Sep/79 Lead dnf

Couldn't move R, so finished up Slippery Chute

with Angus McLean
Paul Clarke ??/1978 -
with FMC
Dave Musgrove 08/Jun/77 Lead
Nigel Bond 10/Apr/74 Lead
with Alan
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
timrooker, Pixie-Andy, Francis Hardy, Hidden, Blake, Hidden, SurferStan, Lumbering Oaf, Ropeboy, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 29
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set