21m.
Start up Black Wall. At the obvious thread runner, commence traversing left, slightly rising, along the obvious line at two thirds height.
Taking a belay in the upper crack of the overhang reduces rope drag. Possible to pre place hanging slings from belay stake on top of crag if needed.
Continue below the prominent nose on the arete, then across the smooth wall of piton direct, crux. Continue traversing left to finish up the easy, or on round the scrappy left end of the crag.
Taking a belay in the upper crack of the overhang reduces rope drag. Possible to pre place hanging slings from belay stake on top of crag if needed.
Continue below the prominent nose on the arete, then across the smooth wall of piton direct, crux. Continue traversing left to finish up the easy, or on round the scrappy left end of the crag.
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Guidebooks for Castle Rock, Gloucestershire
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Route of Interest
Freedom Direct
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)