Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
A good direct line right up the middle of the slab. Start 4m right of the arete as for Midnight Cowboy.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb directly up thin cracks to the apex of the first overlap at 9m. Continue up twin thin cracks above before moving up left to the red/brown sloping stance of Midnight Cowboy. Belay on good wires.
2) 4c, 35m. Move up rightwards through the overlap as for Midnight Cowboy and up to a small overlap. Take the thin line slightly rightwards until the rock becomes broken and vegetated. Finish slightly leftwards with care. Midnight Cowboy or Kinkyboots give a better more stable finish. © Rockfax
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| richardsavill | 21 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely worth putting a line down for the top third of the top pitch, knocked a big grass ledge (foothold!?!?) off whilst scrambling up the choss, luckily had seen this might happen so was heading right, to not be directly above my belayer. Great first pitch though, felt easier than Kinkyboots... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Definitely worth putting a line down for the top third of the top pitch, knocked a big grass ledge (foothold!?!?) off whilst scrambling up the choss, luckily had seen this might happen so was heading right, to not be directly above my belayer. Great first pitch though, felt easier than Kinkyboots... |
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| JoeCoxson | 24 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: No stake at the top, had to use one far to the (climbers) right | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No stake at the top, had to use one far to the (climbers) right |
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| cpoad | 31 Aug, 2018 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top third of the second pitch is scrambling over mud ledges that might give way and rocks that wobble without any decent gear. Strongly recomend putting a rope down from the stakes above before leading this, and others on this slab. Nice climbing on first and first 2/3rds of second pitch though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The top third of the second pitch is scrambling over mud ledges that might give way and rocks that wobble without any decent gear. Strongly recomend putting a rope down from the stakes above before leading this, and others on this slab. Nice climbing on first and first 2/3rds of second pitch though. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Baggy Point
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Last Exit to Torquay
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)