Rockfax Description
A good direct line right up the middle of the slab. Start 4m right of the arete as for Midnight Cowboy.
1) 5a, 19m. Climb directly up thin cracks to the apex of the first overlap at 8m. Continue up twin thin cracks above before moving up left to the reddy/brown sloping stance of Midnight Cowboy. Belay on good wires.
2) 4c, 35m. Move up rightwards through the overlap as for Midnight Cowboy and up to a small overlap. Take the thin line slightly rightwards until the rock becomes broken and vegetated. Finish slightly leftwards with care. Stake belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Jelly Mould Surfer 01/Nov AltLd

P2- the last third of the pitch is a bit scary going over the grass

with Mike Thorpe
Tom Seccombe 06/Jul Lead O/S
with Brother Nick
Lumbering Oaf 20/May AltLd O/S

P1. 2nd. P2. Thought this was a pretty steady climb. Slight awkwardness on passing overlap on P1, but gear is bomber. Also, gear on P2 adequate, but take some small stuff.

with Luca
Samuel Wainwright 04/Oct/14 Lead

Crux pitch only. Finished up Kinky Boots

mike hooper 31/May/14 AltLd

Led first .I think best pitch of the route.

with jobey martin
Joby 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Mike led first pitch of Midnight Cowboy, I led Second pitch

with Mike Hooper
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead
crater 04/May/14 2nd
with steve
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S
crispycodd 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S

P2 only to escape from Midnight Cowboy.

Kate Edhouse 28/Jun/13 AltLd

Great first pitch. I led second pitch although route finding is a little tricky.

with gerwen
Hidden 28/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 09/Mar/13 Lead dnf

P2 only. Vienna struggled with the gear so I abbed for it

with Vienna
haz rudry ??/2013 Lead
jcook1980 01/Sep/12 Lead
with Katy Jeans
Bex_M 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

2nd pitch

with Duncan Dunbar
Frostie 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Steve Ashworth
martin clarke 22/Jul/12 AltLd
stephen ashworth 22/Jul/12 AltLd
with john frost
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd
Joolz 27/Apr/12 AltLd
with Matt Upwood
eroica64 06/Apr/12 Lead
with Audrey Morrison
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
HansUDes 12/Mar/12 TR O/S


jcook1980 ??/2012 Lead
with Katy Jeans
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden 20/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Ben Russell 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Kevster 27/Aug/11 Lead rpt
James Oswald 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S

got scared on lead, should have known more precisely where I was going. We backed of last pitch due to loose shit and no gear. Immense faff ensued with rescuing gear.

with Chris White
Ben ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with My driving instructor
BenLarby 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Matt Mitchell
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead
andy dunn 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Started on sexilegs and bumbled off-route up the twin cracks of LRE. Really good climbing up the twin cracks.

with Alan
Hidden 16/Apr/11 AltLd
Kevster 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

2nd pitch only

DanLear 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Andy Pemberton
chakrit 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S
cjohn62 11/Sep/10 2nd

pitch 2

with martin
Hidden 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

good clean slab climbing not as good as midnight cowboy

Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
MGrock ??/2010 -
mattf77 19/Aug/09 2nd
with rich
sgl 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Susie
w.pettet-smith 20/Jun/09 Lead

led p1 kinky boots start. route finding the crux.

with neighbour martin
luke13 ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Dec
Marti999 28/Jan/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 28/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Marti
Hidden 15/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
MoWalker3 13/Sep/08 -
with Cormac
haydng 22/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
John Lisle ??/2008 -
Hidden 17/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Jun/07 AltLd
with Dave
Matt Shepherd 10/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
John Lisle ??/2007 -
Marq 16/Sep/06 AltLd O/S


with Daniel Dennehy
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Chad123 ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Various
Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pete Sanderson
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/02 AltLd
with Steve Webster
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
nige pacer 06/Nov/01 AltLd O/S
leadmat ??/1997 Lead
with Graham Fleury
andy_pemberton ??/1997 AltLd
colin milton 19/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden 20/Apr/95 Lead
chris wyatt ??/1995 AltLd
with MarkLee
Hidden 05/Aug/94 -
Iain Thow 17/May/92 Lead

Also 2 meandering 5a routes, one starting up Midnight Cowboy & finishing R of LRE (RH Eliminate?), other starting up L edge of main slab, moving R into Midnight Cowboy, up direct to finish up top pitch of Sexilegs.

with Rob Ivens
Cowflinger 23/Nov/91 Lead
with Arnie
auld al ?/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
Andy Chubb 12/Jul/87 Lead
with Geoff Barker
Hidden 21/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Mike C 29/Oct/82 Lead
with David Blight
tapley 06/Oct/82 AltLd
with Chris Seymour
RichardMc 19/Sep/82 AltLd
with John Evans
Simon cook ?/May/82 -
valuks1 18/Jul/81 Lead O/S

My first HVS lead, such great memories, shame that Baggy climbs end on dodgy rock and grass but otherwise are so enjoyable.

with Phil knight
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Andy Chubb 21/Jun/80 Lead
with Andy Roberts
Ken Taylor 18/Apr/79 AltLd O/S
with Andy Bond
Hidden 10/Aug/77 AltLd
Hidden 10/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1976 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
andrewmcleod, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Ropeboy, Hartley, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 9
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set