Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
The first pitch is excellent. Start at an east-facing corner.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb the corner past a small roof until a traverse right can be made below a bigger roof. Keep moving rightwards until a tricky move up through the wide crack on the right of the overhang gains a good nut belay on the large faultline ledge.
2) 4c, 20m. Head up left to a wide rib and move up it until a corner on the right can be accessed. Climb the corner avoiding some unstable blocks on the left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the east-facing corner at the left of the stepped roofs. Climb the corner past a small roof until you can traverse right below a big roof. Keep moving rightwards, till a tricky move through the crack on the right of the overhang gains a good nut belay on the large faultline ledge.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kevster | 1 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: 1st pitch is great. 2nd is the typical loose Swanage esoteric experience which in this case didn\'t add value. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 1st pitch is great. 2nd is the typical loose Swanage esoteric experience which in this case didn't add value. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Lightning Wall Direct
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)