Capstone Direct* E1 5c

Rockfax Description
12m. The central groove leads easily to the capping roof, which is where the problems lurk. Scale it using the thin crack. © ROCKFAX

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This climb is in 72 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

y2keable - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/15 with John

Smith42 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/15 with kerry

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/15

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 09/Apr/15 with Gabe Oliver

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15

andrew sandercock - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Chris Todd

Failed to lead, back next time after Pete showed me the way.
OllieF - 2nd - 30/Nov/14 with PeteG

On Ollie's gear. A good sustained effort but he was robbed one move from the top.
petegunn - Lead - 30/Nov/14 with Ollie

It's a one-move wonder... Shame I can't see how to do that move!
sarah hawker - TR dnf - 27/Sep/14 with Oliver H, Yvette

Foot slipped as I went for the hold round the roof
watson.b - Lead dog - 25/Jun/14 with ross kirtley

RossKirtley - 2nd rpt - 25/Jun/14 with Ben Watson, Matt Robinson

Tithe Technique - 2nd dnf - 13/Mar/14 with Angela Paul, Charley Fell

Led on Ange's gear. Not many moves but certainly packs a lot in. I found bringing my left foot up after rocking up on my right was a nice balancey move and was probably the crux for me, although I did miss a good hold for my left hand. Lovely climb, on good finger locks and a great route to end our 6 day trip on.
charley - Lead β - 13/Mar/14 with Ange, Kev

Had another go at this but still couldn't get that move through the crack. To be fair, probably not the best time to try it on first outing to speak of this year and after four days of climbing with thrashed arms and hands :D Also had a go on a rope after Charley led on my gear but still couldn't manage the move. Maybe next time!!! :D
valentinesbabe - Lead dnf - 13/Mar/14 with Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe

Good, interesting moves but couldn't get the top out...
kyaizawa - Lead dnf - 01/Mar/14 with Ben Crofts

Matt1234 - TR RP - 06/Jul/13

smithjmw46 - TR RP - 17/May/13

peter.ravenscroft27 - TR - 17/May/13

On Davina's gear.
petegunn - Lead - 16/May/13 with Rosie, Davina

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/13

Brutal top few moves!
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 06/Oct/12 with Ian Moore

RossKirtley - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Luke Robinson

Well protected moves over the roof, kinda lay-backed it.
petegunn - Lead - 20/Jul/12 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/12

libby.southgate - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Euan Strachan, Callum Tayor

Callum T - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Libby Southgate, Euan Strachan

Euan Strachan - 2nd - 23/Mar/12 with Libby S, Callum T

I had a little help from above!
malumb - Lead - 28/Jan/12 with Rich Dagnam

Short boulder problem in the sky. Great fun.
vertigo - 2nd β - 28/Jan/12 with Mike Lumb

Peter Holder - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Nick Michel

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/11

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Coatesy

Richard P Coates - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/11 with ianjfsutcliffe

Tithe Technique - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/11 with Angela Paul

Tithe Technique - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/11 with Angela Paul

Had another go at further but still can't do the big pull time it's mine!!!
valentinesbabe - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/11 with Kevin Tithe

yarbles - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/11 with Francis

y2keable - Aug/11

Slumped onto gear, tried again several times, nearly got it but then high finger jam started to slip as bringing feat up. Gave up. Next time...
Nic DW - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/11

MDowson - Lead rpt - 19/May/11 with Jonathon Powell

duncman - 2nd - 19/May/11 with joe spoor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/11

First tried leading this climb at the end of the day so was rather pumped to begin with, had to rest on gear a few times placed in the bottom of the crack. Backed off it and tried again two weeks later, feeling allot fresher I flashed it and without knowing my protection in the crack fell out. Pulling past the overhang is hard indeed but not worth a 5c IMHO as it only requires allot of strength and not much technique. The strenuousness, steepness and quality of protection has E1 written all over it from the crux upwards, VDiff before the crux.
y2keable - Lead RP - May/11

Took ages to eventually brave the pain of jamming 2 fingers into the crack and pull myself up.
Skinny Kin - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10 with John Vaughan

Pretty tough, too much of a wuss to climb past gear.
David Bulley - Lead dog - 11/Jul/10 with Murph, Jay

y2keable - 2nd rpt - 11/Jul/10 with Bulley

MDowson - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10 with atta

nice boulder problem in the sky :) - well impressed with matts 4 bomber wires in the top crack!!
Woodiee - 2nd rpt - 03/Jun/10 with Matt Dowson

clarky - Lead O/S - 29/May/10 with Dave Smith

the real dave - 2nd β - 29/May/10 with Rob Clark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/10

peteJ23 - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/10 with Scruffster

finished on Capstone Traverse...couldn't do overhang
Tithe Technique - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/10 with Charley

Still couldn't finish
Tithe Technique - TR dnf - 04/Apr/10 with Ange, Charley

Just thought I'd have a look seeing as everyone else was :D
valentinesbabe - TR dnf - 04/Apr/10 with Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe

7om - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Adam Carrielies

oliwarlow - 2nd - 12/Jun/09 with Ian

Only about 3-4 moves for E1, the rest is a diff.. but what moves!
odox - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/09 with Oli Warlow

Peter Holder - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with Adam Rawlings

First E1 carcked off, very strenuous moving over the overhang. Sling behind the chockstone and a number 7 wire in the crack all thats needed!
Christopher Williamson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Matt Sleightholme

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/May/08

Crux route through and through - no need even to place any gear until under the roof, where it's plentiful.
Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/08 with Clare

burto - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/08 with malc

shouter - Lead - Feb/08

Hidden - TR - Nov/07

Woodiee - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/07 with Charlotte Telfer

Russell Lovett - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07 with gede gibons

Hidden - TR O/S - 2007

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 09/Mar/85 with Keith Allen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andrew Barr

Total votes cast 40
hard E20 of 15
E20 of 15
easy E20 of 15
hard E13 of 15
E110 of 15
easy E12 of 15
hard HVS0 of 15
HVS0 of 15
easy HVS0 of 15
hard 6a0 of 15
6a0 of 15
easy 6a0 of 15
hard 5c1 of 15
5c12 of 15
easy 5c2 of 15
hard 5b0 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
3 Stars0 of 10
2 Stars6 of 10
1 Star4 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP