Rockfax Description
A fine introduction to the crag.
1) 30m. Start below the right-trending rib. Climb the rib, first on the left, until you can pull right onto the front at a good ledge. Airy moves over the bulge lead back onto the left side of the rib, which is followed to a belay on an expansive ledge system.
2) 45m. Head rightwards onto the slab and follow it boldly, keeping just to the left of centre all the way to the top. A tricky belay can be found at the right-hand side of the grassy bay.
Descent - Stay roped together for the steep grassy scramble leftwards to the main descent path. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A popular beginners climb. Start at the foot of the rib right of Garlic Groove.
1. 30m. Climb the tricky rib, past a steepening near the top to a broad terrace. Tree root belay.
2. 46m. Climb the delightful slab to finish.(the line is just left of centre) Care is needed with the final belay.
V.J.Wiggin, D.R.Meldrum 29/Oct/1948.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
tehmarks | 30 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: No idea why everyone is finding the walk-off stressful. I did it in rock shoes because I couldn't be bothered to faff with changing shoes at the top of the route proper, and didn't find it particularly eventful. Just keep the rope on. There's even a convenient block at the top of the descent proper you can body belay your partner from. Quality climbing on both pitches, would easily be a *** route if only it were twice as long. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: No idea why everyone is finding the walk-off stressful. I did it in rock shoes because I couldn't be bothered to faff with changing shoes at the top of the route proper, and didn't find it particularly eventful. Just keep the rope on. There's even a convenient block at the top of the descent proper you can body belay your partner from. Quality climbing on both pitches, would easily be a *** route if only it were twice as long. |
||||
Butty | 3 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Was ok but nothing special. The grass top out is pretty horrible and feels insecure especially if its damp. Much better VD around imo but * for the 2nd pitch | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Was ok but nothing special. The grass top out is pretty horrible and feels insecure especially if its damp. Much better VD around imo but * for the 2nd pitch |
||||
Inhambane | 13 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Only pitch 1, the only route dry at the crag after 2 days of rain. Bit damp at the top, suspicious almost detached block at top of pitch 1. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Only pitch 1, the only route dry at the crag after 2 days of rain. Bit damp at the top, suspicious almost detached block at top of pitch 1. |
||||
skinne | 26 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's a good thread using one of the big rocks in the grass for a belay above the top pitch. A long dyneema sling was ideal for this. Definitely bring footwear for the grassy walk-off. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There's a good thread using one of the big rocks in the grass for a belay above the top pitch. A long dyneema sling was ideal for this. Definitely bring footwear for the grassy walk-off. |
||||
odari | 15 Jul, 2015 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely not for beginners. First pitch has several loose blocks, second pitch is solid but as such does not take any gear -> long run out on easy terrain. If you have a slightly shorter rope then good luck to find a belay at the top of 2nd pitch. Finally the walk off is not straightforward. Again, not for beginners. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Definitely not for beginners. First pitch has several loose blocks, second pitch is solid but as such does not take any gear -> long run out on easy terrain. If you have a slightly shorter rope then good luck to find a belay at the top of 2nd pitch. Finally the walk off is not straightforward. Again, not for beginners. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VD ***
(Dinas Cromlech)