UKC

76m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine introduction to the crag.
1) 30m. Start below the right-trending rib. Climb the rib, first on the left, until you can pull right onto the front at a good ledge. Airy moves over the bulge lead back onto the left side of the rib, which is followed to a belay on an expansive ledge system.
2) 45m. Head rightwards onto the slab and follow it boldly, keeping just to the left of centre all the way to the top. A tricky belay can be found at the right-hand side of the grassy bay.
Descent - Stay roped together for the steep grassy scramble leftwards to the main descent path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A popular beginners climb. Start at the foot of the rib right of Garlic Groove.
1. 30m. Climb the tricky rib, past a steepening near the top to a broad terrace. Tree root belay.
2. 46m. Climb the delightful slab to finish.(the line is just left of centre) Care is needed with the final belay.

V.J.Wiggin, D.R.Meldrum 29/Oct/1948.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse

Feedback

User Date Notes
tehmarks 30 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: No idea why everyone is finding the walk-off stressful. I did it in rock shoes because I couldn't be bothered to faff with changing shoes at the top of the route proper, and didn't find it particularly eventful. Just keep the rope on. There's even a convenient block at the top of the descent proper you can body belay your partner from. Quality climbing on both pitches, would easily be a *** route if only it were twice as long.
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βeta: No idea why everyone is finding the walk-off stressful. I did it in rock shoes because I couldn't be bothered to faff with changing shoes at the top of the route proper, and didn't find it particularly eventful. Just keep the rope on. There's even a convenient block at the top of the descent proper you can body belay your partner from. Quality climbing on both pitches, would easily be a *** route if only it were twice as long.
Butty 3 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Was ok but nothing special. The grass top out is pretty horrible and feels insecure especially if its damp. Much better VD around imo but * for the 2nd pitch
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βeta: Was ok but nothing special. The grass top out is pretty horrible and feels insecure especially if its damp. Much better VD around imo but * for the 2nd pitch
Inhambane 13 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Only pitch 1, the only route dry at the crag after 2 days of rain. Bit damp at the top, suspicious almost detached block at top of pitch 1.
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βeta: Only pitch 1, the only route dry at the crag after 2 days of rain. Bit damp at the top, suspicious almost detached block at top of pitch 1.
skinne 26 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There's a good thread using one of the big rocks in the grass for a belay above the top pitch. A long dyneema sling was ideal for this. Definitely bring footwear for the grassy walk-off.
βeta?
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βeta: There's a good thread using one of the big rocks in the grass for a belay above the top pitch. A long dyneema sling was ideal for this. Definitely bring footwear for the grassy walk-off.
odari 15 Jul, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely not for beginners. First pitch has several loose blocks, second pitch is solid but as such does not take any gear -> long run out on easy terrain. If you have a slightly shorter rope then good luck to find a belay at the top of 2nd pitch. Finally the walk off is not straightforward. Again, not for beginners.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely not for beginners. First pitch has several loose blocks, second pitch is solid but as such does not take any gear -> long run out on easy terrain. If you have a slightly shorter rope then good luck to find a belay at the top of 2nd pitch. Finally the walk off is not straightforward. Again, not for beginners.

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Votes cast 73
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flying Buttress

Grade: VD ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

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